HenrikTJ
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Posts posted by HenrikTJ
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4 hours ago, wuzzzer said:
A speaker stand.
You can always remove the bottom plinth from the speaker. That will give you more options to choose from of you want the top plate of the stand to be the same or close to the dimensions of the speaker.
I'd go with a stand that is all metal for the stability factor. I have my Heresy IIs on metal stands that are about 30" tall.
Thank you very much for the info! Im thinking I should get a stand that would make my 160Ms approximately as tall as my 280Fs.. Would that be reasonable in your opinion or doesn't it really matter?
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Hi!
I have recently bought the RP-160M for my back-speaker placement, and I'm in the market for a way to mount them. I have landed on the conclusion that I need one of those things depicted down there (Dont even know what to call them). If anyone know what those type of things are called, please comment below.
I've been trying to find one that has a big enough top-plate as the feet-plate of the RP-160M (8.81"x12.86" or 22.4cm x 32.7cm). Sadly there hasn't been any luck. Have you any experience on this particular product and do you have a suggestion for which ones I could buy?
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Hi.
Is there any difference between banana plugs, spade plugs, bare stranded wire or bare solid wire when it comes to getting the best quality sound out of your speakers? Which one would you say that you prefer?
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Before reading question:
TL= Top left, BL= Bottom left
TR= Top right, BR= Bottom right
Hi.
This might be a dumb question, but sometimes curiosity gets the better of a newbie. First i'd like to emphasize that i'm not talking about bi-wiring or bi-amping.
Does it make a difference if you connect the wire to TL&TR as opposed to BL&BR?
What would happen if one were to connect the wire to TL&BR or TR&BL?
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3 hours ago, pbphoto said:
How much further away is one from the other? If one cable run is 2X longer than the other, then I would just use the same gauge cable on both and not worry about the different lengths. However, if one run is 10X longer than the other, then I would consider some options. Here is a decent (I think) article I found: https://www.audioholics.com/audio-video-cables/speaker-cable-length-differences-do-they-matter
thanks
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5 hours ago, pbphoto said:
Here are a couple of tools to help you:
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm#wiretable
http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf
I have just one more question... Will the sound quality be different if one speaker supposedly is that much further away from the others, making me have to get another cable with lower gauge just to adhere to the wire table from the roger-russel url?
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6 minutes ago, pbphoto said:
Here are a couple of tools to help you:
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm#wiretable
http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf
Thank you very much! This will help a lot.
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Hi
Until recently, I had no idea that different gauge wires had a say in the quality of sound. I haven't gotten the whole gist of it yet, but apparently the impedance of your speakers and length of the wire will dictate what gauge of wire I should choose.
As far as i've seen, klipsch speakers (including my own) is compatible with 8 ohm.
Now what wire gauge would be the best pick for my system?
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thank you very much!
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Hi!
I am building a home theater system (7.2), and time has come for me to choose a receiver. It should be mentioned that I am a newbie and learning as I go. From what i've gathered, its really important that your receiver delivers the right amount of wattage required by the speaker at the correct ohm. My system consists of the top of the RP line, and it would seem that every speaker
are within their watt cont/peak at 150/400w at 8 ohm.
My problem with this is that I can't find any receivers at all that even supports at least 150w at 8 ohm per channel, and these receivers are around the 3000$ mark.
Am I going about this "Receiver-speaker-wattage"-thing wrong or am I just in the wrong price class?
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5 minutes ago, KlipschFish said:
Yeah baby working subs are good!
Truer words were never spoken!
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29 minutes ago, KlipschFish said:
Did you go into the set up menu on your receiver and turn on the subwoofer? In your system set up, you can set levels for your speakers and set suround modes. In both your system(s) A and B, (if you use a multi room set up) you can turn on or off your surround soeakers, subs etc. Go there and make sure your system setup has the sub parameter set to 'on'. This is seperate from the' large' or 'small' speaker adjustments.
Yes, thanks. This was the problem and it is now solved.
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Hi! thanks to everyone that had an input and helped. My receiver had turned subwoofer off. After it was turned on, everything was running smoothly. Thanks again
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12 minutes ago, wuzzzer said:
So just to certain, you have a cable connected to the LFE or Subwoofer pre-out on your receiver? And then to one or two of the RCA or LFE input(s) on your receiver?
Does your receiver have a menu to turn a subwoofer on or off? Can you set your speakers to small or large in your receiver? Are there different surround or stereo formats that it has that you can cycle through?
Yes, I have the L&R line-in put into the sub and the single RCA in the sub pre out input on the receiver. I just found settings that can turn sub off. I will test check if it is on or not, an come back to this.
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Just now, KlipschFish said:
No expert here but obvious to make sure the sub is 'on'. How is it set up to turn on? Is it on all the time or on 'auto'. Auto is supposed to sense the signal from the avr and 'turn on' the sub from standby. I have a RSW-15 that sometimes does not sense the signal when I have it set on 'auto'. Hence I leave the sub 'on' full time. It's a fairly old sub and the amp still works like a charm so I'm not sure if one way is better than the other or if it makes a sub amp decline quicker. But, especially at lower volumes, 'auto', on the amp of my sub, doesn't always work as intended. This may not help, but it can't hurt. (I think)
Yes, im aware of this problem with klipsch subs. It was set to "On" throughout the testing of the sub.
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3 minutes ago, wuzzzer said:
What receiver do you have? So the sub hasn't worked at all for you?
An old Onkyo TX-SV828THX. No, it gets power and I know it gets signal, but there is no effect from the sub
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3 hours ago, wuzzzer said:
There's probably a setting in your receiver that needs to be adjusted. For example, if you have your speakers set to Large, when you're listening to a source that doesn't have a dedicated .1 LFE channel your receiver won't output anything to your sub.
Does your sub work when you watch a movie or a source that plays in a surround sound format?
Sadly no
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Hi!
I've recently bought a klipsch sub and hooked it up to my receiver using the cable from the attached image. I chose this cable because my receiver only has one input for sub pre out. When playing music, no base comes from the sub. I'm trying to stay away from using LFE cable because I mainly use my system for music, but do anyone have an idea why this connection doesn't work?
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Hi!
I've recently added a klipsch sub (r-115sw) to my home audio system, and I was wondering wether to plug my sub and amp though LFE or a RCA Y-splitter. I mainly use my system for music and in regards to that, i've heard differing statements. Some say LFE is the best option for movies and RCA the best option for music. Others even say that for an untrained ear like mine, I wouldn't even notice the difference between LFE and RCA. So what i'm asking is, if my main use for my system is listening to music, should I connect my sub and amp through LFE or RCA?
If any of you have any suggestions as to what cable would be good/compatible with my sub, I would be grateful.
Thanks!
Mounting bookshelf speakers
in Home Theater
Posted
Hi! thanks for the tips. Did a little searching around and found the dayton stands here in Norway. Worst case scenario, there's always amazon and ebay haha