MechEngVic
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Posts posted by MechEngVic
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If you have a pop at a specific interval after rest, it may be a capacitor problem. Something is faulty or miswired. Can also be a cold solder, the solder didn't bond properly and makes contact or disconnects making the pop sound. Does the speaker sound different before the pop? Or after the pop?
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Film & foil !!!!!
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50 minutes ago, Khornukopia said:
Thanks. I also like it a lot, but it was a bit luminous or reflective if I had any room light on during a movie, and that distraction prompted me to apply the chopped carbon vinyl wrap in the home theater room. The burl wood wrap horns are perfect for my garage stereo.
Ahhh, next you need a Vantablack wrap!
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2 minutes ago, Khornukopia said:
You should. It transforms the horns into objects of art. I like the way a random pattern design works with the curves of the horn. A solid color is good too. Straight pattern wood grain might be complicated.
A pair of saw-horses with some foam padding on top make a good work stand.
If you plan to use a vinyl wrap, get samples in your hands, because the internet pictures are not accurate enough for a wise choice.
I liked the wood grain wrap on the horn lenses.
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On 8/5/2020 at 6:19 AM, VDS said:
Hi, I got a set of Cornwall 1’s recently. I’m running them with a PS Audio stellar 300 and a Felix 6922 tube pre. Sound is strong and solid, but a little harsh in the upper end. Replaced tweeters with Crites 120 which helped. Thinking a tube amp might give a little more smoothness.
I’m considering Prima Luna, Bob Latino st70, Line magnetic 216, (maybe even Yaqin ms13, and I hear good and bad about Rouge)
Any experience with under 2000$ (used or new) amps? Looking for smooth, but detailed.
i know this is a pretty open question, but just looking for peoples experience.
thanks, Ted
I'd start with taming the Cornwall's mid horn a bit. If the crossovers are original, they need a rebuild anyway. Replace all the capacitors with higher quality film & foil and-or PIO's. Then add a resistor shunt at the final lead before the mid driver. Maybe 10 ohms inline and 5 ohms for the shunt (as an example, others here could give you better values). Buy several values (10+ watt) and use what sounds best while maintaining proper impedance (this needs to be calculated). I'm sure this has been done to Cornwall i's by others here. The right info is out there, including the crossover diagram. Hopefully others with chime in.
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16 hours ago, jdmccall said:
As an audio-pup, I remember being impressed when hearing the different drivers of a speaker (woofer, tweeter, etc.) as distinct sound sources. I thought that was cool. This would probably have been the speakers that came with my first compact, "all-in-one" Realistic stereo...the "Clarinette 85"...or something like that. Now I'm much more sophisticated. I think it's cool when sounds seem to come from outside the plane of the speakers.😆😎🤓
The best is when you've got your eyes closed and you're hearing instruments on the left and instruments on the right and then, bam! There's a vocal coming right from in between like there was a middle speaker!
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On 8/2/2020 at 7:34 AM, Pstores said:
I know what the difference the Vcap ODAM made in the little Zu’s. And have seen what the VCAP Teflon’s made in the Atma-sphere preamps and amplifiers I’ve had. The VCAP Teflon would be way out on my price range. But their newer less expensive ODAM line maybe in my future. Kind of depends if I am going to hold on to my Chorus or upgrade to Chorus II.
I was hoping someone that maybe tried other caps like Mundorfs it Clarity would chime in as it there was a difference in that and the Sonicaps. Soni’s are a nice quality cap. But be interesting to hear what others have done.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYou'll hear more difference in TYPE of capacitor than in BRAND. IMHO. FIlm & foils and PIO's are the best. For a metalized film cap to be good you have to spend $ and be lucky. The high end metalized film ClarityCap's are a good deal and I have heard a "smoothing" effect with them. I like them. Mundorf F&F's are a great cap at a good price. Russian PIO's are the best bang for the buck in capacitors. Even with shipping from overseas. Don't use all one brand/type, mix it up.
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4 hours ago, Outrider 6 said:
I’m curious about how people actually go about comparing newly modified crossovers with their old set ups. I’d assume that best comparison would be an A-B test. That only seems likely to happen if someone goes through the trouble to ensure that they have two different crossovers to compare. Given that the modifications can be plenty expensive, I’d definitely want to be reasonably assured the juice was worth the squeeze.
I’m about to put some Dave A MAHL tweeters in my Chorus Is. I will A-B one speaker against the other, however imperfectly. I’m also recapping with Audyn parts Dave recommended. First big mods for me. Should be interesting.
The best way to compare would be to run frequency sweeps with a measuring mic and REW. If the old caps are worn out you'll see a difference in the graphs. If you can hear a difference will depend on the quality of your ears. I'm 50 and my ears aren't what they used to be. The MAHL's will make more difference than any crossover mod.
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7 hours ago, Matthews said:
i will NEVER EVER run tubes again - NEVER !!!
...insert explicit language here
GOOD!!! More tubes for the rest of us! 🤓
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Toe your mains in 45 degrees but experiment with placement (closer or further from corner, closer to back wall or into room more, etc.). Then you can decrease angle if needed (usually, the further from side walls, the lesser the angle). Basically you want the speakers pointing at your head. Don't use the sub until you dial in the mains. Sub position can make or break overall sound. Move it around, start sub at highest frequency then turn down as needed. Try polarity both ways in every new position. Turn volume of sub up so it becomes very noticeable then turn it down a couple of notches. As long as your wires are connected correctly, don't worry about them, or your bi-wire connectors, for now. Put an area rug in front of your mains.
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The RF-7 series is a world class two way speaker. The heritage line is just that, heritage. Any new design would not be a heritage until many years later IMO.
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22 hours ago, absolve2525 said:
Thanks for the suggestion. Sounds easy enough! Where do you order those from?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333283622325
The reason I suggest the use of resistor changes instead of changes to inductor or capacitor values is because you're not changing the Klipsch architecture (the shape of the frequency response curve), just turning down the volume a bit. And a resistor change will have less of an effect on the driver's impedance curve than even small inductor and capacitor changes can have. Trust me, you don't want to mess with that sweet signature Klipsch midrange sound. About the most I would try is doubling the resistance value, but no less than about 10 ohm increase. The Mundorfs on eBay are cheap enough to buy several values and a good quality resistor. You can cut the old resistor out but leave the leads sticking up out of the board and alligator clip different values in until you find what you like. Then if you want the best quality, buy a Mills of your favorite value to put in (within a few ohms is ok). For fun, check Parts Connexion for the crazy boutique resistors.
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I'd replace the 22ohm resistor in the midrange circuit with a Mills MRA-12 or Mundorf MR-10 33-35 ohm resistor.
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On 8/3/2020 at 4:02 AM, Matthews said:
Indy, stay far far away from tubes! You will be full of disappointment at the first spin of Anthrax.
Most any old school SS integrated or receiver will suit your needs well. The old stuff is generally built to a much higher quality and power output.
Tubes vs SS is an argument that will get you thrown out of any bar! All I can say is this: For over 15 years I ran most of a dozen SS amps and receivers. Then I listened to a tube amp for about half a second and decided I would never go back. Been running tubes and horns for over 25 years now.
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Klipsch is quickly becoming a very big audio company. There will inevitably be "growing pains". Let's hope they handle them with the same level of care they always have.
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7 hours ago, babadono said:
I meant unbalanced connects in general and RCAs specifically.
I've had good luck with unbalanced RCA's, but then again, I've always had simple systems (2 speakers, amp, pre, source).
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On 7/30/2020 at 2:21 PM, babadono said:
I love unbalanced RCA connectors for that very reason. And oh yea cuz they make the circuit connection before the ground connection. Get rid of that JUNK is my motto.
By "junk" you mean: Schitt? RCA's?
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SET vs Push-Pull?
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I always thought I would eventually hunt down another pair of Chorus II's, but I've grown to like the tall, thin, smaller footprint of dual woofer KLF's. Plus, even though many of us horn enthusiasts want them to produce as much of the lower frequencies as possible, I'm finding that a good pair of dual woofer speakers can do a real good job well into the 1200-2500Hz range.
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I'd say that's a resounding endorsement for the quality of a speaker many times older than the latest Klipsch offerings. I love the KLF series! I owned and sold Chorus II's and thought nothing would come close, but having bought and modified a set of KLF-10's, I'd say now that the only thing the Chorus does noticeably better is loudness. No doubt that amp does its share.
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The crossover's three middle connectors are for the tweeter and the squawker, and the two woofers share the woofer connection. The right-most connector is for the tweeter and squawker INPUT (HF input), and the right-most connection is for the woofers INPUT (LF input).
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On 8/1/2020 at 1:20 PM, thebes said:
...hell. In all my years in this hobby I had truly never heard of such a thing until today. However, after a little googling it appears there are lots of them and they can cost up to several hundred dollars. Forget cables. Apparently what's truly needed is a hyper-expensive power cord attached to a special audiophile grade wall plug, but that is not enough for true sonic bliss. You need a copper, bronze, gold or ceramic fuse to lift the veil from the music.
Here's another odd thing about them, many require that they be installed in one direction only. I never realized electricity flowed in one proper direction only, because I could have sworn that the juice flowed from positive to negative, or visa versa if you have a two prong plugged and simply switch it around.
So has anyone played around with these fuses, and is there any rational at all to using them.
A poorly made fuse could conceivably cause AC irregularities, but any decent fuse should do the job. Buying boutique fuses is for those with too much disposable income.
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On 7/29/2020 at 5:27 AM, Don Richard said:
So let me get this straight - hooking speaker cables to the antenna input of a tuner is a good indicator of it's audio quality as speaker wire?
I have read where noise was getting into an audio system, and it turned out to be a nearby traffic signal controller. The speaker wires were picking up the noise, which was amplified through the amp's feedback circuit. Their solution for the problem was to use coaxial cable for speaker cable, with the shield connected to common. Please note that it was a combination of a nearby EMF producing device, the speaker wire, and the amplifier's circuitry that caused that audible issue.
If an EMI issue exists, shielding all wiring may be necessary. Some audio equipment is better at rejecting noise than other equipment, so YMMV.
I used to have a torchiere style floor lamp who's cord ran along with my speaker wires, and every time I turned it on to a middle brightness setting, I heard buzzing through my speakers. In that small apartment, I didn't have much placement choice. I read way back then that the complexity of your wire's windings helps with shielding, so I ended up braiding my own cables and put ferrite rings on the ends of them and it helped a lot. That's why the video resonated with me. This video's experiment got me thinking about the wires that come with a receiver for the FM antenna, it's basically zip cord. So if there isn't much difference in simple vs. expensive cables, then it behooves us to find where we can achieve gains for not outrageous prices.
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7 hours ago, fmalloy said:
Um, I have an electrical engineering degree so I've had, um, a few classes in electronics and physics (not to mention electromagnetics and linear algebra).
Sure, you can try shielded cable if you're experiencing interference. Much of the EMI is from the electronics, few cases involve speaker cables. Most of us don't experience much interference at all. If you want to spend hundreds or thousands on expensive shielded cable, perhaps raise them up off the floor if you feel better about it, go right ahead.
But sorry, I don't evaluate speaker cable by hooking it up to a tuner. You're welcome to do so.
The thing I find most interesting about these golden-eared cable nuts is for some reason they usually refuse double-blind listening tests that would prove/disprove the so-called improved sound quality of their cables.
If you read my comments you'll find I am no proponent of spending thousands, nor one of using simple zip cord. As an engineer, you would see that the experiment in the video illustrates a valid point, and you'd ignore the host's hyperbole in using it as a "method" to evaluate speaker cables. A simple argument in favor of using better than zip cord is made by the video, as is the "snake oil price of admission" all the argument one needs to side against the other extreme. My whole point was that simple zip cord and expensive cables are the extremes of an issue who's answer lies somewhere in the middle. Your point seems to be to insult and argue.
Re-Veneering project for Forte ll’s
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
It would be nice to see pics to get an idea what you're working with. As many and as detailed as you can.