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MechEngVic

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About MechEngVic

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    Forum Veteran

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SoCal
  • My System
    Chromecast Audio, Topping D30 DAC, Nobsound NS-01P Tube Preamp, Dynaco ST-70 II Tube Amp, Klipsch KLF-10 Horn Speakers, Klipsch Sub-12HG, All cables DIY

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  • Website URL
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/113237105@N07/

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  1. And where's the pics of the crossover?!?!?!?
  2. Please dig through your tube stashes for any Blackburn 6GH8A tubes. They are mostly Amperex brand, made by Mullard, Blackburn. I'm willing to buy many if you have them. Or a single. Would really prefer unused NOS. I know a bunch of these have got to be sitting in someone's old TV tube stock, because they were used for that a lot. But they are also the signal tubes for my Dynaco ST-70 Series II, and they are the best sounding of all the 6GH8A's I've tried. I don't want any of the Holland or French made, just the Blackburns. This is your chance to get rid of tubes you will probably never use and make a few bucks. Designation: AAC4, factory code: Bxxx.Thanks.
  3. 402's 2.5dB lower than the bass bins?
  4. I found the same thing with her recordings. It's a shame such a great voice is being recorded so poorly.
  5. This is a conundrum faced by all speaker builders, and a natural artifact of your hearing. I can listen to one person just fine, but 3 or 4 people start talking to me at the same time and things get confusing, it turns into midrange sizzle. This effect is multiplied by the tweaking that is done to music in the mastering process; in trying to level everything off, they compress everything together and narrow the soundstage. Many speaker makers adjust for this problem by lowering the output of the midrange in comparison to the highs and lows, making a V shaped frequency response curve. This is the reason why many audiophiles don't get that the music happens in the midrange. Klipsch, on the other hand, gets it. The frequency response curves on horn driven speakers accent the midrange. And Klipsch's solution for the midrange sizzle: Bigger horns. That's why your horn lens takes up half the speaker. You can make gains. Have you tried toeing them in 45 degrees? Get them as close to the corners as you can, then make your seating position just behind where the lines of the two speakers intersect, in other words, at the tip of the triangle. And get a good usb DAC to run your mac through. I have a Topping D30, and you wouldn't believe the difference this 120.00$ DAC makes. Or if you can afford more: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?forums/audio-dacs-streamers-servers-players-adcs.8/ Also, tubes and horns go together for exactly this reason, but do the placement and the DAC first. Look for a DAC that sounds warm. Even the best laptops can't beat the sound of a modest DAC, and there are some awesome ones out there. (Topping D50s, SMSL M500, RME adi-2)
  6. Yeah, I've heard the jumpers could be improved upon.
  7. Oh man, those are the most gorgeous LS's I've seen so far! I love tall speakers and you made a short stocky speaker long and elegant. And the crossovers built through the board is fantastic. I bet those ported risers get you a few more Hz's. Do you get reflection/dispersion/diffraction issues with the tweeter?
  8. I think you answered your own question with your opening statement, "I had my system really dialed in". I'm sure that didn't happen in a day or two. Don't give up, keep tinkering, you'll eventually get a "dialed in" sound from the new setup.
  9. It is considered one of the best by these guys: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/measurements-of-rme-adi-2-dac-and-headphone-amp.7546/ If you can afford it, it's a no brainer for headphones, one of the best headphone amps Amir has measured.
  10. This. That's why repositories of know-how and experience, like this here forum, are such a valuable resource. Speaker builders make as good a sounding speaker as they can within the confines of the budgets they are given. There is always a compromise. Then we, with the help of these forums and our experiences, can extract the few missing bits of performance out of those designs. But care must be taken to avoid thoughtless "Swap-tronics".
  11. This is your chance to be a Klipsch Pioneer!! I don't think anyone has torn into their RF-7 III's yet. I guarantee you that the crossovers and wiring can be upgraded at the very least. And if you crack them open and document the design and values of the crossovers you'll get a lot of help from the experts on this forum. I for one am itching to see RF-7 III guts!
  12. Big time, pages are taking 30 seconds to load, I can almost hear the modem dial-up screech in my head.
  13. I am starting to be convinced it is not purely placebo. Especially the resistors coming off of the cathodes and anodes. Someone on this forum said "You're not just hearing the tube, your hearing the tube and it's plate/cathode resistors". I've tried a couple and am hearing improvement. Certainly way cheaper than tube rolling.
  14. I understand. In a fanatic's case, desired and required are the same thing. I just finished capacitors and have started resistors.
  15. In your sitting position, if your ears are higher than the cabinet top, then you're probably ok, or if you sit far enough away from the speakers. In my case, I sit pretty close to my speakers and my ear is level with the horn, so setting the tweeter back, although aligned, cuts off much of the sound. In a near-field setup, I really get an immediate sense of what the speakers are doing. Really, every situation has its own variables.
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