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MechEngVic

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About MechEngVic

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    Male
  • My System
    Chromecast Audio, Topping D30 DAC, Nobsound NS-01P Tube Preamp, Dynaco ST-70 II Tube Amp, Klipsch KLF-10 Horn Speakers, Klipsch Sub-12HG, All cables DIY

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  1. The truth is: It's both. I don't know why it's so hard for everyone to understand this. There is no 2 sides to this issue, there is only one. New capacitors break in. AND, your ears adjust. If it was just your ears adjusting, then your ears would get used to a poorly sounding system, and it would eventually sound great to you, and you would have no need to upgrade. We all know that's not the case. Your ears DO adjust, but just a little. Your amazing ears can discern incredibly small changes. If not, you would eventually get used to your subwoofer being a bad spot and you'd even stop noticing that tweeter that stopped working. Capacitors will give you 80+% of their improvement upon installation. The last few percent's worth of improvement will happen when enough current has flowed through and established its best path. You guys know that capacitors charge and discharge numerous times, creating significant electric and magnetic fields strong enough to microscopically displace layers inside the capacitor and re-settle them in slightly different positions? Many have liquids in them that re-distribute themselves as charge builds and ebbs. Just read a little on how manufacturer's make them. They also break them in. Or they're supposed to. But they only break in a small percentage of the manufactured batch. If they test in spec, they assume the rest are good and they let the customer finish breaking them in. Other dynamics also exist in caps and play a part in their breaking in. The improvements will be subtle, but we've all gotten our ears used to subtle changes.
  2. Practically neighbors, I'm in Covina. I wish I had the space for a pair of those...
  3. I was moving my subwoofer around in my listening area trying to improve the synergy between it and the main speakers. I put it in a spot where I thought the bass sounded better, but when I sat down to listen, I felt like I had lost some coherence and imaging, and within a few minutes I started getting a headache. It occurred to me to try the phase switch on the sub... And BAM!!! Everything gelled! My sub must have been out of phase (even in its original position) and when I moved it, it started playing nicer with the room but finished going out of phase with the speakers (at least it sounds like that's what happened). The thing is, the high frequency imaging seems to have improved more than even before I started moving the sub around. It must have been already partially out of phase...? I guess it makes sense that low, out of phase waves could affect all frequencies, but the difference is significant. Am I just hearing things or can an out of phase sub notably dampen your high frequency output?
  4. Could a pair of stand-alone tweeters compliment a 2-way pair of speakers?
  5. Speaker cables with knobs... Why didn't I think of that?
  6. I don't know how I missed this comment! I am becoming more and more convinced of exactly what you are saying here. I have been making upgrades to my system and the most significant ones have come from improved circuits, not "better" tubes.
  7. I was gonna say: There are 2 pursuits in speaker making, making a speaker sound good, and making a good speaker sound its best. The first is about profit, the second is a labor of love. I think part of the reason why we're all here (in this forum) is because we believe, and can hear, that for the us, it's the latter. If you have the time and inclination, I think it's worth it to find out which aspects of standing wave control are worth pursuing. With the work you've done so far and the improvements you've made, I you're definitely on to something, and I think the lot of would be very interested in what you find.
  8. There is no way to completely avoid standing waves. They're either in your speaker cabinets or in the room. Lower frequency standing waves are the most noticeable. I think most speaker makers try to tame those and don't worry as much about high frequency standing waves. I too would like to hear more about this subject from the forum standing wave guru... I wonder who that is?
  9. I bet using silver plated copper wire would make a bigger sonic difference than a bi-wire setup.
  10. You already know what's gonna happen if you set her up with KIlpsch speakers, it will usher in a life-long love of horns and midrange crunch. I don't know what you're waiting for.
  11. Try something sticky like tape. Two-sided tape on the end of a stick. Touch and yank.
  12. Try to keep them away from other wires in the wall and don't use copper clad aluminum.
  13. Most negative effects of worn out capacitors and lower quality inductors become noticeable at louder volumes or after longer periods of listening, once the components have heated up. The big woofers in the Chorus II's benefit from an inductor upgrade even though the existing inductor doesn't wear out. The mid-range choke is adequate IMO. They still sound great now, but they will sound better. My advice (Did this to my chorus II's): 3.5mH: Replace with ERSE Super Q 3.5mH 16 AWG 500W Inductor Crossover Coil 68uf: Replace with low cost unit (not in signal path) 6uf: Replace with ClarityCap CSA/ESA 250Vdc Series Film Capacitor (2 x 3uf in parallel), these sound good with horns and are cheap enough to not be "Boutique". OR 6uf Russian PIO cap (PIO caps warm up sound) 2uf: Same as 6uf, ({2 x 1uf} x 2) or Russian PIO 20 Ohm 12 watt: Dale or Ohmite WIRE: 14ga OFC copper or silver plated copper Solder: Cardas Audio Quad Eutectic Silver Solder The rest of the components don't need replacing. Carefully remove the parts you're keeping and make your own mounting board. Caps in parallel are just as good as singles. Stick with the correct values, kilpsch really got the Chours II crossovers right. You're looking at about 250 bucks. https://www.parts-express.com/ https://www.partsconnexion.com/ https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=russian+capacitor&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=russian+capcitor https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=14awg+silver+plated+wire&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=14ga+silver+plated+wire My KLF-10 crossover
  14. Robinson–Dadson curves, Fletcher–Munson curves. https://asa.scitation.org/doi/10.1121/1.1763601 https://ledgernote.com/columns/mixing-mastering/fletcher-munson-curve/
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