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MechEngVic

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About MechEngVic

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    Male
  • Location
    SoCal
  • My System
    Chromecast Audio, Topping D30 DAC, Nobsound NS-01P Tube Preamp, Dynaco ST-70 II Tube Amp, Klipsch KLF-10 Horn Speakers, Klipsch Sub-12HG, All cables DIY

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    https://www.flickr.com/photos/113237105@N07/

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  1. Ok, I guess I had is right originally. I've been going back and forth between two threads and three members and I'm getting all mixed up. There was the KLF-30 thread with Alexander and jjptkd and an a55, and this one with dtr20, and I'm not even sure who I was answering about which experiment! You know, you were there. I owned a pair of chorus II's from 1992 to 2005 before I sold them due to moving into a smaller place. I experimented with them extensively, including mounting the mids and tweets on a stand and using a pair of 10" sub woofers for the bass! I re-did the crossovers externally in a wooden box with a Lexan top and I by-wired them. I also coated the midhorn with a thick layer of spray on rubber, and replaced the connector tabs on the woofers with gold plated 5 way binding posts. Nothing I did ever made them sound any better because they already sounded amazing. I learned a lot, but I never even once felt the need to change the drivers.
  2. By endorse, do you mean that he no longer considers its use in new or updated designs?
  3. Sorry, wrong driver. I was trying to comment on the subject of this thread, in which the OP swapped the chorus II driver with an a55g. The Chorus II mid driver is actually a k-61-k. The focus of my comments was supposed to be on the merits of doing these experiments as opposed the merits of specific drivers, but I did a bad job of it.
  4. I'm pretty sure the a55g, properly implemented, will out-play the k52. But can any of us implement the a55g into an existing design which used the k52, better than Klipsch has done with the k52? Maybe. Can we do it by playing swaptronics? Doubtful. But here's the thing: This is where it starts. At some point even PWK had to get all the mistakes out of the way. At some point our learning will involve making changes for the worse. In my 35 years of building speakers I've made more mistakes than successes, but I've learned a lot and have enjoyed my life more because of it. One thing I know, I'd love to be allowed into the rooms where Roy keeps all his projects, failures, and works in progress.
  5. Agreed. If we just throw money at a speaker expecting a better product we will probably be disappointed. If it is done thoughtfully with proper adjustments to impedance and frequency response, and most importantly, with the express purpose of keeping the spirit of the design, we can exceed the limitations placed on the speaker maker by their budget.
  6. I think the one thing that we can all agree on is how we're all salivating at the thought of buying some of those Forte III horn lenses... and how mad we are at dtr20 for not buying several pairs and selling us some.😉
  7. Yeah, but for ones of us who have heard the amazing potential of the KLF line, we can be happy that we get basically heritage quality sound at a fraction of the price. I got KLF-10's in perfect condition, late construction so no unglued panels, for 400 bucks. I thought they were gonna be a transition speaker, but the cabinets are so big and solid and the woofers so powerful that an upgrade of the crossovers and horn drivers, and a super tweeter on top, have given me a real deep musical satisfaction.
  8. Well believe it or not, but I've learned most of this stuff from scouring the various audio forums, especially this one. You learn a lot of theory in school but nothing beats practical application!
  9. Please note in the thread where we talk about using 600v coupling caps instead of the 400v written in the schematic. If you keep blowing tubes your coupling caps may need upgrading to 600v.
  10. http://dynacotubeaudio.forumotion.com/t4323-same-tube-keeps-going-bad
  11. Like dirtmudd mentioned, the bias is balanced by adjusting a trim pot so that two led's are of equal brightness, one set of 2 led's per channel. It's pretty reliable. I haven't measured with a meter recently but I did when I first rebuilt the amp and all voltages were good.
  12. Then it is you I have to thank for exposing me to the idea of screen stoppers. If you check out the thread I started at the Dynaco forum by the same name you can read the advice I'm getting which is sounding pretty good so far.
  13. Thanks dirtmudd, I actually have screen stoppers installed, I installed them after the first time V5 blew a tube (100ohm). V5 is the only position that is having this problem. I have owned the amp since 1992. It gave me several years of trouble free service before tubes wore out. At the time I replaced them one-at-a-time with the cheapest el34 I could buy at the guitar shop. At that point the bias resistors began blowing regularly, and shortly after an unknown resistor blew and I lost the right channel and I pulled the amp from service. Last year, I rebuilt the amp, replacing every resistor and capacitor. After several dozen hours of service and many on-off cycles, V5 arced and red-plated. Then I replaced the original tube sockets and added the screen resistors. I replaced the tube with a matched one. While V5 no longer red-plates, it is still arcing, it has done it twice since the first time for a total of 3 times. Each time I have replaced the tube with a new matched one.
  14. Yes sir, C25 is a new 600v Russian PIO cap. If I get desperate, I might replace them all again, maybe 630v Solen film and foil caps. A set of the Solens cost about the same as the matched pair of tubes this problem has eaten already.
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