Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

MechEngVic

Regulars
  • Content Count

    432
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

204 Excellent

About MechEngVic

  • Rank
    Forum Veteran

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SoCal
  • My System
    Chromecast Audio, Topping D30 DAC, Nobsound NS-01P Tube Preamp, Dynaco ST-70 II Tube Amp, Klipsch KLF-10 Horn Speakers, Klipsch Sub-12HG, All cables DIY

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/113237105@N07/

Recent Profile Visitors

711 profile views
  1. IMO, the mid and high frequency drivers have to be at ear level. No amount of tilting will fix that. Our brains know exactly where the sound is coming from. Get those H's pointed right at your head, toed in and level, and they will come alive.
  2. I just bought a Soncoz LA-QXD1, designed and built by the guy behind the khadas Tone Board. A 200$ DAC with balanced XLR and RCA outputs, ES9038Q2M chip with the distortion hump eliminated, 32-bit 768kHz / DSD512 capability, USB, Toslink, and Coax inputs, and digital volume control so you can use it as a preamp. The SQ is an improvement over my Topping D30. Amir over at science review rates it highly. Hard to beat for 200 bucks! https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/soncoz-la-qxd1-balanced-dac-review.13459/
  3. Imagine a triangle with the three corners containing your speakers and you. If the speakers are 40" apart, and they are toed in 45 degrees, then the sweet spot with be at 20" back and center. As you toe the speakers out, the sweet spot will move back in proportion to the laws of trigonometry. Try to keep them toed in as much as possible to avoid reflections of the side walls.
  4. My introduction to Pink Floyd came in the back of a carpet padded van with a 6x9 speaker in every corner, a significant measure of THC coursing through my veins, and the cash register from "money" spraying coins across an imagined landscape. I was hooked. To Plink Floyd. My favorite song is the current stand out at any particular point in my lifelong journey of exploration of their work. My current favorite is "Fat Old Sun", from the 1970 album "Atom Heart Mother".
  5. 45 degrees toed in. Pointing right at your face. If the speaker is too bright, it's not the position's fault. Your system needs tuning. Toeing out will create tons of reflections, and that's mostly what you'll hear. You'll only hear off-axis sound coming directly from the speakers. This might create an interesting ambient sound that is pleasant, but it won't be accurate sound reproduction.
  6. I would try a different repair shop. If it is an electronic issue, any competent technician should be able to troubleshoot and repair them.
  7. http://www.nostubestore.com/2011/10/mullard-ecc88-6dj8-great-britain.html I can't recommend this website personally, but I haven't heard anything bad. Definitely check out Jim Mcshane http://www.mcshanedesign.net/ If he's got them, they're good. He'll give you viable options for other brands if he doesn't have any.
  8. Better amplification would make you like the sound of the RP160M's better. That being said: Nothing will "embiggen" your sound more than bigger, better speakers. Spend that 2k on the newest Heresies or Fortes you can find.
  9. Yup. If you plan on retrofitting the existing crossovers, taking them apart will be where the greatest chance of damage will happen (tearing up the copper traces on the board, damaging the rings around the mounting holes). Caps and resistors are not just soldered, they're glued. My advice, desolder as much as possible. Use a solder vacuum pen. Once you remove as much as you can, try to gently wiggle the soldered leads of the old components free from the sidewalls of the holes they're in. Then unstick the glue from the board very slowly, take your time, as you pry the old components up. Stop immediately if a lead starts snagging on the hole it's in, free it up. The next trickiest part will be planning placement of new components. Don't cut any leads or solder anything down until you have everything removed that needs removing, and everything planned out for new placement. Try not to wiggle and bend your new leads too much. And whatever you do, resist the temptation to overheat a connection that refuses to flow. Walk away then com back to it, clean your tip and put on fresh solder. Flux core solder, the thinner the better. Watch youtube vids.
  10. In every amp or preamp I have tried, NOS Mullard Blackburn tubes brought the midrange forward, which means sweeter sounding voices, more centered and forward. Low frequency was also improved, at the cost of slightly tamed highs, which with Klipsch speakers, is usually a good thing. But they do have a wide soundstage so the highs sound more airy. Everyone raves about the Gold Lion's and the Reflektor's, but I have not heard them. Telefunken Black Diamond's, I have been told, are re-branded JJ's. I have bought many new production and NOS tubes, the only ones I don't regret buying are the NOS Mullard Blackburns.
  11. From what I've read over the years, in generic statement form: 8ohm tap has less bass but wider soundstage, better HF extension. 4ohm tap has better bass, narrower soundstage, rolled off highs. Of course the speaker plays a part. In my experience, with Klipsch speakers: 4ohm tap improvement in bass outweighs any narrowing in soundstage. I have noticed very little if any narrowing of soundstage, but what sounds like a bringing forward of the midrange frequencies. Final thought: The 4ohm winding should in theory be the one with the least distortion.
  12. I have loved my Dynaco ST-70 Series II since I bought it new in 1993. It has since been rebuilt, with improvements made to component quality and wiring traces on the not-the-greatest PC board (Thanks Jeff!). It has always impressed me with its sound quality. For years I ran it with a solid state Adcom preamp. Then I bought a 200$ Chinese tube preamp based on the Marantz 7 and was blown away! I have since upgraded the preamp with high quality capacitors and NOS Mullard 12AX7 tubes for an extra 200$. This pre was the best improvement in SQ-per-dollar I have made. I know many think that old tube circuits like the ST-70 and Marantz 7 are outdated and have been improved upon, but I've listened to amps and pre's costing several times more and have yet to hear an equivalent increase in SQ.
  13. Anybody else having trouble un-zipping these files?
  14. https://critesspeakers.com/prices-other_stuff.html
×
×
  • Create New...