Jump to content

Maxwell_E

Members
  • Posts

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Maxwell_E's Achievements

Member

Member (2/9)

27

Reputation

  1. Someone didn't mind the number of the beast.
  2. Selling a pair of Epic CF-2 speakers with the cherry veneer. I bought these to build a 5.1 home theater with my CF4's as fronts and a KV4 as the center. My new apartment doesn't really allow for surround speakers, so I'm selling these and I'll be proceeding with a 3.1 HT setup instead. These are not sequentially numbered, but were built within 30 units of each other. This has led, in part, to a slight difference in color between the two units. Asking for $300 OBO, located in Seattle.
  3. Nice homemade stands. I ran into the same problem. All the commercially available speaker stands were either 1) too tall; 2) too small platform area; or 3) too dang expensive, or any combination of all three options. So I went to my local architectural salvage looking for some sturdy wood and ended up leaving with a large slab of 2" thick plywood. I cut them into what resemble small end tables and put some thick hairpin legs on them. I kind of like the way it looks with the layers of the plywood exposed, and I could always go back and trim them out for aesthetics.
  4. I think you were comparing different caps from the different boards. The purple one in the foreground is 20uF, but you can see the purple cap in the background ends in a 3. They look like the exact same crossover, except they used a higher voltage rating on the KV4. Tons of reasons to do this, like maybe the supplier ran out of 100V caps and they went up to the next rating, or there's common parts that use 150V caps so it makes sense from a stockroom standpoint to only keep inventory for 150V caps and use them everywhere.
  5. What are your plans for that horn? Or are you trying to find an aftermarket replacement?
  6. CF2 owner. Yes, the flange on the horn is 10x6.75 inches.
  7. I don't think that's how it works. Area of a circle is pi times the radius squared. Two 12 inch woofers have a combined area of 226 square inches, which is equivalent to a single 17 inch woofer. A single 18 inch woofer has 254 square inches. Every time a speaker doubles in diameter, the area quadruples.
  8. The black/yellow film caps in the HF section are film, and almost definitely made by Bennic. Film capacitors last longer than electrolytic, and some PIO like what came on the heritage speakers. I'd be surprised if they were out of spec after 25 years, but weirder things have happened. $50 per speaker can upgrade you to ClarityCap CSA, and about $150 per speaker to get Auricaps. That's when I priced it for the CF-4, which should have roughly the same HF section. This is when I decided to leave the stock black/yellow film caps in the HF section. For me, it would be more rewarding to get a MiniDSP, remove the crossovers, and biamp the speakers, possibly with a little SET amp on the horns and a beefy solid state for the woofers. Then I can mess with all kinds of crossover configurations, frequencies, time delay, and room-mode testing.
  9. I just replaced the capacitors in the LF section of my CF-4 Series 1's. Went from tiny electrolytics to Solen film caps about the size of red bull can. I also bypassed them with 1uF Auricaps to get the exact spec capacitance. Lastly, I replaced the 1 ohm attenuator resistor that's in series with the compression driver. I had my roommate listen blind to each speaker playing mono, back and forth. He immediately picked out the one with new caps as having better clarity and "whoomp". Bob Crites is right, I had to shoe-horn that stuff in there, but I got it done. It'd be hard to go further with the stock boards. I have a vague idea what the value for the inductors are, but I'm not 100% sure to be buying hundreds of dollars in new parts to rebuild these and then screw it up. My advice is to keep the stock inductors, replace the electrolytics, and a couple resistors with good Mundorf or similar MOX resistors. You could probably put the longer ports on there and be fine, too. Beyond that, you'd have to spend so much money on new crossovers that it makes more sense to go full active biamp with a Mini DSP, or a First Watt B5 active crossover. Then you can go full speaker tweaker.
  10. Nice amp! I'm half debating getting a Primare A30.5 that's on Craigslist near me. It's a 5 channel, which will let me do the 3.1 home theater idea I've been cooking up. Not sure I've heard Primare before, but the price seems pretty good for a 5 channel amp with individual power transformers for each channel. And no specific listening notes, it just puts the musicians at the right height. And I can vacuum under the speakers, which is a plus.
  11. Not that I can tell, no. My room has some weird wall alcoves and a vaulted ceiling, so bass response isn't the best anyway. I feel that the woofers are very low excursion and make it up with surface area, so I describe the bass as "controlled" or "polite". Maybe if I sat further away, or attenuated the horn a little I could crank them further, but it is what it is for the moment.
  12. I made some homebrew stands for my CF-4 to pick them up about 13", which gets the center of the horn at my ear level. Before I had tried tilting them back in every position I have at my disposal, but nothing sounds as good as just getting them off the ground. Even with them tilted, I felt that the sound was still shooting up at me, like I was Gulliver listening to a tiny band of musicians on the floor. My stands are more like low end-tables, because speaker stands only 13" high and sturdy enough for these speakers would have to be custom made. I found some 1.75" thick plywood at an architectural material recycler in town, and bought 8 hairpin legs to make up the rest of the height. I could paint them or get some nice trim pieces to hide the plies, but I kind of like the look now. Maybe cherry veneer to match the speakers? All in I think I spent about $110 for the set, but I had a circular saw and a straight edge to cut the plywood to the right size.
  13. If I was the seller I would have faked sequential serial numbers.
  14. I saw those on Seattle craigslist. His serial number is only 7 digits, but should be 9. And it looks like a sticker he's made himself. Based on the use of hyphens between "epic CF4 CHERRY" and the darker black horn lens, I'd say that these are probably not version 1. I thought about contacting him about the goofy serial number, but I have no room for another pair of CF4's right now. No reason to ask questions if I'm not buying.
  15. These are great responses. I have owned them for about 4 months now, so I'm pretty familiar with the sound. I've read a lot of the forum posts and other thoughts on these speakers, and I'm thinking I'd also be willing to start small with some damping on the horns and woofer baskets. I realized that the pdf I posted was the V3, but it was the closest approximation I had to the network. I plan on taking the crossovers out of my speakers and fully documenting them sometime in the near future. One thing that I've found is that my old 30wpc Sansui has a hard time driving the woofers to match the horns. I started going off on a tangent of "fixing" that by having separate amps to tune the speakers to my room. the first step will be to try some larger amps, specifically a 50wpc NAD that I've got out for repair right now. Generally speaking, is it kosher to create a low-level/active crossover as a clone of the speaker level design, albeit with the ability to use lower power rated components?
×
×
  • Create New...