MarkKrochuck
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Posts posted by MarkKrochuck
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2 hours ago, glens said:
The voltage rating of fuses is merely the ability to contain (insulate) the voltage. Naturally, it pertains also to the fuse holders in that respect.
Well beyond my electrical knowledge so I’ll trust you. Thanks!!!
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17 hours ago, JohnA said:
LOL! I'm sure you can do the math between 100 watts and 200 watts. I wouldn't think you'd want to use your voice coils for fuses.
I also reversed the time for a fuse to blow. A 3A fuse pops at 4.2A in 100 seconds and allows 6A for 1/2 second and will pass 12A for .1 seconds, about the duration of a kick drum. That's 1150 watts. Fuses are not really that great for speaker protection.
Good to know, and no I want to make sure these speakers last beyond my time if possible.
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16 minutes ago, JohnA said:
I would keep the original fuse sizes.
Power = I*I*R, where I is current in amps and R is impedance.
Fuses pop at 2x their rating during long term overload.
So, I = sqrt(100 watts/8 ohms), or 3.54 amps.
If that woofer is rated at 100 watts long term, a 3A fuse is a little oversized. A 3A fuse will run all day at 3A and never blow.
See the time/current chart in this link:
Sorry, I will likely keep the fuse sizes per your advice but thought I would ask.
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14 minutes ago, JohnA said:
I would keep the original fuse sizes.
Power = I*I*R, where I is current in amps and R is impedance.
Fuses pop at 2x their rating during long term overload.
So, I = sqrt(100 watts/8 ohms), or 3.54 amps.
If that woofer is rated at 100 watts long term, a 3A fuse is a little oversized. A 3A fuse will run all day at 3A and never blow.
See the time/current chart in this link:
The K-44 woofer is rated at 200w rms, the pro version differs from a normal Lascala, Khorn, Cornwall woofer.
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5 hours ago, nitrofan said:
Most fuses say 250 volt on them if you look, even the ones we sell for automotive
Thanks for the info, as Glen said above I guess “amps is amps”.
I have to go off what you guys tell me because I honestly do not know and could not find 120volt fuses in that style and amperage.
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7 hours ago, billybob said:
Wow, alright then. Thanks for that.
Think that Carver is helping with that check ing them out... enjoy!
Thanks, I will for sure.
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20 minutes ago, billybob said:
Continued, did you listen to the speakers before you bought?
If so, did it blow a fuse?
Did he give you the speaker cables to speakers?
Are you using regular speaker
Wire to hook them up and not the correct for the inputs shown?
Just questions, not an inquisition.
I believe the wire you speak of is just a cobweb. The speakers were listened to for about 6-7 songs. I brought my Carver PM2.0t and really cranked it. One fuse blew on one speaker cutting out a woofer and another fuse went on another speaker cutting out the tweet and mid. They were playing ridiculously loud so I suppose the fuses did as they should to protect the drivers.
I intend on bracing up the cabinets, fixing the binding posts and painting the exterior to freshen these up. The grills are in good condition, just need a heavy lint rolling to remove some debris/dirt and cat hair.
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Hey everyone, I just got an amazing deal on a pair of Klipsch CP-1 Pro (Cornwall) speakers. During testing I blew a 1-1/2amp and 3amp fuse. The fellow I bought them off of happened to have spares, but I am wondering where I can buy replacements if I need them. The guy I bought from said they were 120volt fast blow fuses and he said to make sure I don’t get 12volt ones. When I try to find 1.5amp and 3amp AGC fuses the are all 250volt.
Can someone direct me to where I can buy these things? Should they be 250v not 120v?
I really don’t think the drivers were over stressed, could the values be changed to 2amp and 4amp?
Thank you,
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Changed mind about sale (for now)
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20 minutes ago, glens said:
102 would be but 102* wouldn't in this case. The asterisk denotes "equivalent in a normal room" (or something like that). The home and pro speakers are rated with different methodology. Subtract ~4 dB from a "*" rating to get the equivalent value as would be used for the pro stuff.
Interesting, never knew that. Thanks for the information!
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2 hours ago, glens said:
I suspect the RF's rating is "102 dB*" and the CP's is "100 dB" so side-by-side the CPs would be louder than the RFs.
Glen, I think you have it reverse. 102 should be louder.
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4 hours ago, jjptkd said:
Have you considered adding a subwoofer or two? I'm not sure you'll get a lot more or "better" bass response from the CP-1's but I could be wrong.
By the way these speakers (CP-1's) are some what rare and typically seller's seem to want double or more the asking price for these the few times I've ever seen them for sale FWIW good luck!
I have a subwoofer. I just hate having what is considered a fairly decent speaker and having to run a sub to get any amount of appreciable bass. Just seems wrong considering Ive read and watched so many reviews saying that an RF7 will shake a house or are fine without a sub.
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9 hours ago, Randyh said:
pictures would help to see the overall condition
I have not heard them yet, I would not buy them without hearing them. I can definitely fix any cabinet/binding post issues no problem.
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8 hours ago, Randyh said:
pictures would help to see the overall condition
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There are a pair Klipsch CP-1 (pro Cornwalls) for sale about 90 minutes away from me for $1000 CAD ($775 USD). They are a bit banged up but function as they should. I think i can get them for $8/900 ($625-$700usd). Is this a good deal?
Want to replace my RF5 and RF7s as I was not impressed with the bass either are putting out.
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@wuzzzer Thank you for the information, I am thinking that the foam might be affecting the performance and I need to place it back on the sides. The speakers are currently positioned (including both the RF7s and RF5s) as shown in the picture.
regards
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I recently bought some Klipsch RF7’s (first version) and removed the horns to add sound deadening material on them and also removed a bottom woofer just to inspect the cabinet integrity. I noticed that there were pieces of egg crate foam resting almost against the tuning ports for the cabinet and there was also foam at the top of the cabinet folded fairly tight and stuffed up there. My question is if this is the normal placements for the foam pieces or if they have fallen/shifted over time,
do they need to be moved.
I am not super pleased with them and the amount of bass is way less than what I have read about, I found they were only a marginal improvement over the RF5s. They are being driven with two Bryston 4Bs in bridged mono configuration. There is no way I would run them without a subwoofer. Room is 16’w x 36’l x 7’8”h. Speakers placed approximately 1 foot off the wall.
thanks,
Refurbished Klipsch CP-1s
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
Hey everyone, just wanted to let you know that I recently bought a pair of Klipsch CP-1 (Cornwall Pros). I have done the following to refurbish them:
- added stiffening strips
- two coats of black duratex everywhere except the faces
- new binding posts
- new Crites titanium diaphragms
- deadening materials on the horns
- new foam gaskets for all drivers, handles, terminal cups
-new wheel casters
Im going to get them positioned properly this weekend and give them a better listen.