Lbk
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Posts posted by Lbk
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11 hours ago, VDS said:
I see there is the Anarchy 704 at DIY soundgroup, pretty similar specs and price. A little higher power handling.
That is the one I used, arrived in 2 days after ordering. Lil Mike sells thur DIY soundgroup and it's preferred over tang brand. Both are recommended by lili mike but testing shows 704 to be slightly better.
I use a 100 watt per channel stereo integrated amp with a 20 hz sub sonic filter. Filter is recommend so sub is not over driven, speaker is actually a mid woofer.
You could use a plate amp but personally I never like them, hard to adjust and more work to mount. Hopefully more knowledgeable people will come along and suggest an amp of your choosing. I got mine amp off cls for 40 bucks used.
I did not build an access door or terminal for speaker. (Lazy) Speaker is wired direct and runs out front of sub box.
The more I listen to these the more I like them, covers low end nicely. The fill in nicely with both chorus II's and revel b15 upfront. I haven't even adjust them just hooked them set avr to 60 hz they sound great right out of the box.
Carl posted another thread on this subject you might want to read. ( 25hz tapped horn - It's in the sub section) Let me know if you have any questions.
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Academy black -225 , rc62ii -175, belles -3000 Atlanta craigslist.
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54 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:
That is the one I mentioned above.
How do I stain it?
You will need to read and follow directions but pretty the stain gets mixed in with product. Read a review where a customer did not the follow mix stain directions pics shown where not good.
If you need to stain further I dap some stain on and let it dry. Most likely stain will just come if you try rub it in. If you don't like results gentle steel wool, clean dap and let dry again.
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1 hour ago, Marvel said:
Chris, the Bondo Wood Filler is an epoxy product that dries hard, comes in two parts. Not sure how small a kit you can buy.
I would also put in a small screw that would sit below the surface, to provide an extra anchor in the wood. See attached drawing...
Bruce
Screw is an interesting idea. Stain match is difficult, usually you have to mix stain in with the product before applying. Mini wax has a 2 part that is suppose to except stain.
The mini wax product above may work but it doesn't state if it gets hard. I would want a product that gets hard for durability.
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2 hours ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:
Here it is., The cabinets should be able to be sanded and refinished. These corners are the ones that bother me.
After looking at pics I did some quick research, seems wood putty has advanced since I last use it. The wood puttys available now get very hard when compared to bondo. If you do some research there are slightly different methods and products to choose from. One thing you do want to do is sand the bad spots and clean them out for good adhesion. I like to you to a compressor and blow out all dirt and dust.
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14 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:
I picked up some JBL L100 century speakers last night and a few corners are slightly damaged. Not anything too deep or extensive, but they need to be filled and colored or maybe small pieces of veneer added.
Anyone have experience with fixing corners?
What do you use? Wood filler? Bondo?
I prefer bondo but pics would help. Bondo should be easier to work with.
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2 hours ago, RandyH000 said:
speaker glue , or black rubber cement
Not sure if this would work. Maybe you could fold a piece tape gentle push it on cap then pull on it to see if cap rises.
If you push on speaker cone do heard any scraping noise, voice coil?
From the video the bottom left edge of dust cover looks loose?
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15 minutes ago, Biscuit said:
Good morning fellow Klipsch lovers. I have a problem, and need your expertise on diagnosing.
I bought a pair of KLF30s this weekend. Listened briefly in his home an hour away, and didn't notice any issues.
After I got home, I hooked them up and after about 1 hour of listening (80-90db, sounded great), I noticed some vibration/buzzing from one of woofers on one speaker. Don't know if I broke something loose or what, but I was NOT driving them hard; although it was with deeply pronounced bass tracks.
I read about issues with Baffles on these, so I pressed hard on all front/rear wood with no change in the offending sound.
If I push on the dustcap, it "might" attenuate the buzzing, but only if pressed quite hard where the overall movement of the diaphragm is substantially hindered.
I've recorded sound here so you can hear it. Do I need a new woofer? I understand they are unobtanium, but asked in modification/KLF30post on this forum if any had one from updating to HW321 drivers.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PmJ1ZXXoYXXeYjxm9
Looks like dust cap is loose and buzzing, will have to be glued. Might as well check cabinet's for leaks also. When I did my klf 10's I took out a woofer and gentle pulled on motherboard then pushed on back cabinet board. Both where loose and had to be reglued.
Others will join in and may have a better idea on how to check for leaks. Good luck!
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Finally got 1 of the subs running correctly, I need a y Jack to get the other going. Not an spl monster but puts out nice clean bass and digs fairly low. Got it set at 60hz with 20 sub filter on amp.
Running my b15 up front and 1lil Mike next to the sofa. Fills the room - rear nicely without dragging the front stage back. Really like sub so far, 2 should be even better. Let me know if you have any questions.
Have both working set at 60hz, delivers nice clean bottom end when needed.😁
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4 hours ago, Bobby2xs said:
If they don’t sell I may try my hand at this if it’s reversible, my craftsmanship is mostly on the administration side of things haha
Easily reversible, PE has that 4" by 12"port you can cut down. Just make sure you measure before you purchase if you go this route.
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1 minute ago, SWL said:
I'm talking about the fact that these speakers are 20+ years old and are known to have cabinet issues as well as cheap crossover parts failing after 15 years or so.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Sorry I just picked a quote at ramdon without thinking. Good points I have a pair of klf 10's that had cabinet issues, loose front and rear panels.
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20 minutes ago, SWL said:
Key words = well functioning.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Chorus II work best in a corner.,could be wrong but I think klf 20's might be a little more placement friendly.
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7 hours ago, Bobby2xs said:
I will either sell these or buy 2’s and keep em, depends on how things work out, I’m rolling the dice and keeping the Cornwall either way!
I would try the port's, PE has some 4" by 12" ports that could be cut down. If you try ports measure your speakers first, if I remember correct the speaker ports/holes are just under 4".
You could also change out the woofer cap to poly if hasn't been done. Maybe a different woofer could get you where you want to be, probably easier than finding and buying a pair of II's.
Good luck with what ever you decide to do!
You could also try bracing, but other owners have good and bad to say about it.
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1 minute ago, Bobby2xs said:
For simplicity, I really have always loved a well put together simple system. My favorite system currently is a pair of Cornwall 1 with the old oil caps, a marantz pm8005 into a will Vincent
st-70. It’s perfect for me, sans sub. Would love to see if the chorus 2 could top it. My space is too small for Klipschorns. So I’ve narrowed the battle down to the Cornwall and chorus 2. If you want these I’d trade plus cash since you run a sub anyway 😜
Understand . Appreciate the offer but I also have a pair of chorus I's. My listen room is 17 by 11 by 8 and my 2's fill the room nicely with bass, I just like the extra bottom end subs give me.
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1 hour ago, Bobby2xs said:
A little more low end. I’m hoping that the chorus 2 sound in between KLF and Cornwall. I love the mids and highs of the chorus 1 but it’s missing the last bit of bottom. They sound excellent with subs, but I want to ditch the sub. My Cornwall do it, KLF do it, and chorus 1 are so so close, but need the extra help on the very bottom.
Curious why you want ditch the sub? I have chorus II and they do have good bass but I still like running mine with a sub.
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On 12/4/2020 at 10:53 PM, Subtle Sam said:
OP here. Every good story needs a good ending so here goes. I received two different dm’s from forum members to send me an original replacement driver for the kg4’s. But in the end I decided to return the speakers to the seller who gave me a refund. Thanks to you guys for offering to help me out!
That’s not all though! I also got a message from another forum member fairly close to me. They invited me over to check out a pair of Heresy II’s that they weren’t using. Well I dropped by today, had a great chat, listened to some music on a very cool sound system, and ended up buying them from the generous person. So now I’m sitting back and enjoying. I love the Heresy’s so far, so much clarity and liveliness.
Seems like things worked out for the best, all because of this forum. Thanks everyone for your suggestions!
Now just need a nice pair of subwoofers.😁
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12 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
What amp are you using to power the sub?
Wharfedale pro mp 1200 - Was using this amp as a quick check before I hooking up yamahs ax 592. 592 has a sub sonic filter mp 1200 does not but was in rack - easy to hook up.
Used the mp1200 to run my revel b15 with no problems, revel had a bad amp.
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Just now, MookieStl said:
@Lbk did you ever finish your build? Did I miss it?
How do you like the sub?
I did finish but the sub out on my martanz receiver quit working. Checked to make sure sub out was on, tried different sound and speaker modes, nothing. I did run it from a main pre out it didn't sound very good, low bass spl. I know these are not known for SPL but I had it right next to my head on a table behind sofa, almost nothing.
I have an old Sony 444es with pre outs I need to hook up, not looking forward to dealing 7.1 wiring rats nest. I will try to get it hooked up in the next few days, its scare looking behind the receiver.
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On 8/4/2019 at 5:08 PM, MoreCowbell said:
I have a pair of Klipsch KLF 20s and I was curious if whether or not you guys knew of a genuine upgrade for the tweeter. I already have the crites ti upgrades. I'm just looking for something that has a bit bite to it. I just constantly feel like I'm missing something. I was just asking if anyone has used or heard of any good tweeter upgrades. Thanks for the response.
If you want something with a bit of a bite see if Dave A has any drop horns with a de 120 tweeter.
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8 hours ago, billybob said:
Would also try a different amp on them. Not rock and roll speakers some say. Excel on classical, jazz, blues they say online.
Like mine for rock also.
Good solid electronics make a difference for my CF1s, along with 100+ watts per channel.
I have tried my Carver and hafler amps and they sound different but harness is still there. When I listen to rock with strong electric guitars it's really noticeable. Other music without electric guitars they sound great with little to no harshness, I listen to mostly classic rock.
Didn't get much done on these today. It was nice out so I worked outside building frames for sound panels and diffusers. I am going pull the horns and xovers out tonight and rope caulk the horns before I go to bed. Busy week so may not get as much done on them as I would like this week, thanks for all the help so far.
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1 hour ago, Shiva said:
Do you have tone controls enabled on the Marantz? Any bump in the treble at the moment? Have you tried turning the treble down and test? Just mentioning things to try before any modding process.
That is an interesting idea! It has digital tone controls and I forgot I have treble bumped up s little from running the chorus's. I will play with it tomorrow.
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1 hour ago, Dave A said:
This is the only thing I disagreed with Bob on. Some time back I got a set of KP-456's stock from Klipsch. The bass bin had a 50uf poly cap in there and not an electrolytic. The current pro crossovers from Klipsch also have 50uf mylar caps and not electrolytics. Pro Klipsch is made to a higher standard in my opinion.
So I had a set of Chorus I's a while back and decided to use a 68uf Audyn cap end see how it sounded. There was a clear improvement over that dinky little electrolytic. I also had a Crites KPT-456 crossover with that dinky electrolytic in there. I built more based on his crossover but used the Dayton 50uf poly and it sounded better. Yes it is a good economy choice to use the electrolytic. It is not the better choice for sound quality. Also I know poly's are bigger but I have made it work without any problem every time. I had that "woofer circuit is basically a garbage can and does not need the poly caps" conversation with Bob and decided that this time he was not right. Keep in mind too that those Sonicaps he sells top out at 35uf on the Sonicap site and sell for $76.58 each. one 33uf and one 35uf would give you the 68uf required and cost appx $300 just for the 68uf equivalent to do a pair with Sonicaps. There is an economic reason to use cheaper caps if you insist on using sonicaps. Recapping a Chorus I with all Sonicaps would run over $400 just for the caps if you stayed just with them.
I am not telling you what to do but what I have done to make me happy and my reasoning and will leave it at that with no further comment about this here.
I have a Dayton audio 68uf poly in my chorus II's and love the bass.
Again sorry I may not have explained correctly, I have sonic caps already from previous projects. I will definitely be using budget caps if I do decide to buy any. Will have to decide of I want to use a poly in woofer path, cost will be the deciding factor. Would be an interesting experiment, chorus II's do sound good with poly's in them.
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5 hours ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
yeah i confused that part, thought you meant using it on inside edge of where the drivers mount, youre fine doing it on inside seams of the cabinet if you want but again since they are ported there is really no advantage to doing that aside from strengthening the cabinets some.
some like to use poly in place of electrolytics & theres nothing wrong with that but keep in mind, even crites uses lytics for the bass section & said there is no advantage to using polys there. also when you get to the bigger values in that location a poly cap can be rather large & many times wont fit on the factory board without mods or manipulation. another good company to use for caps & many other parts is ERSE, thats what crites uses for other than caps crossover components & the electrolytics. he toold me they are a very good budget cap & measure excellent ESR. ive used them a few times for klipsch & other speakers & they are very good caps, as good or better than other budget caps like dayton & cost less.
Going to pull xovers in the morning, hopefully I will have some sonic caps I can use. Is it a bad idea to replace only the caps in tweeter/horn pathway and any electroytic's, bass is fine.
Knew erse made electronic components didn't know they caps, may have to check into those.
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6 minutes ago, Dave A said:
OK how are you going to determine which ones are bad? If you do not have a good capacitance meter that will measure ESR you have no way to determine what is bad in any case.
Using Audyn and Dayton caps, some like the 4.5uf will end up being 4.7uf because that is what is made unless you want to combine caps for more accuracy, the total for both if you do the work is $54.44 retail sale price at PE. Now if you have to hire it done or send them out to be rebuilt with caps the rebuilder uses it can run up more. Probably well in excess of $120.00. For example Sonicap 20uf $47.76 each and 33uf $72.23 each retail price which you will pay unless you have a business account set up. In this case you could spend just over $300 for the caps alone which is crazy.
I will do work myself, going look inside and see what I need. ( what type of caps are being used ) I do have some sonic caps laying around.
25Hz Tapped Horn
in Subwoofers
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