Lbk
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Posts posted by Lbk
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Far from an expect but I think Carl is right, makes sense to me anyway. Can't get back to these till the weekend so I will do some more research before I make my final decision. If find anything significant I will post.
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33 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:
Didn't use it. Were there before and after graphs showing with and without? I can't imagine there would be much of a difference.
Charts from lil Mike but doesn't state with or without quiet liner. (Skimmed over thread, 50 some pages long) Have to assume test was with liner? Home depot has a similar cotton duct liner cheaper and in a smaller quantity. Can't hurt so I think I will try it, it's only about 13 bucks.
Yes, the thread with pic lists quiet liner on building materials sheet.
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1 hour ago, rockhound said:
I never used any internal fill in the ones I built. I don't believe the plans call for any?
A plan on avs forum (reed exodus anarchy 25hz tapped horn) use quiet liner in all corners, even baffles. Curious, how many of you guys used fill in your build?
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On 1/28/2021 at 10:14 PM, CECAA850 said:
What is your question?
Is there an alternative to quiet liner, I can only find larger rolls. Home depot sell's cotton duct liner by frost King in smaller amounts, would that work. Could I use polyfill? Would rather get offline so I can get these boxes done, thanks.
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13 hours ago, DizRotus said:
I can’t speak for Mike, but I spread a thin layer of Loctite on the underside of the remaining side (top) panel around the perimeter and where it meets the inner baffle panels. Then I put a thick bead of Loctite in the corresponding locations of the assembled box. Carefully lowering it straight down into place forced the viscous Loctite to squeeze out, sealing the joints. The pre-drilled screw holes assured the alignment of the panel and the tight seal against the inner panels.
The dado cuts of the four flat packs were easier and more reassuring, but the Loctite and patience resulted in a strong and leak-free scratch-built unit number five.
If were using veneered panels, or if for any other reason using screws through the side panels were to be avoided, I would install at least two guide pins diagonally in two corners of the box to assure alignment. To accomplish that without piercing the veneer, I would insert wood screws into the corners of the box down the point where the threads are fully into the wood. I would then cut the heads off the screws and grind the stumps to a point. With assistance, I would place the side panel on the pointed pegs to mark the location for holes in the panel to receive the pegs. Again with assistance, I would use a drill press to drill holes to a depth of one half the thickness of the panel. The points would be ground off the pegs leaving a smooth peg slightly shorter than the depth of the corresponding hole in the panel.
That’s a lot of work to avoid piercing veneer, but I would want the assurance of alignment provided by the guide pins. The glued panel would still need to be held in place by weights and/or clamps until the Loctite cured.
If I wanted veneer, I would apply veneer AFTER assembling the boxes and hiding imperfections, screws, etc with Bondo. Fortunately, in my basement man-cave veneer was unnecessary. I prefer the rounded corner look using a router and the “hides a multitude of sins” coverage of textured Duratex. That said, I greatly admire the skill and persistence required to cover large boxes with beautiful hardwood veneers.
Never done any veneer work except for edge work and yes it is beautiful when done correctly. Maybe this year I will give it a try.
I build one box ( 4 sides and a bottom panel) and hope to get the baffle panels in tomorrow. I bought 2 cheap corner clamps from harbor freight (3.99 each) to hold a corner of the box and used a spade bit to drill pocket joints. (No jig) Worked ok but I bought a single hole pocket jig today to put together the other box. I plan on using a couple of pocket joints on each baffel panel. One on bottom front and one on top back of each panel. This should hold panels in straight I hope.
For the last 20 1/8 by 30 inch panel I am going to really on pl premium to hold it in place. Only place I can put in screws without them being scene would be the on bottom of the box. Not sure how much that will help but might do it anyway. Think the pl premium will hold?
So pl premium should hold. For alinement pins I am going to use 1 inch finishing nails. Use the nails ss a drill bit going down about 3/4 of an inch, point end towards drill. Use drill as a stop, once in release nail from drill where point end sticks up. Pl premium all end panels and carefully set last panel and aline. Clamp weight and make sure last panel s completely down as far as it can go.
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11 hours ago, DizRotus said:
I can’t speak for Mike, but I spread a thin layer of Loctite on the underside of the remaining side (top) panel around the perimeter and where it meets the inner baffle panels. Then I put a thick bead of Loctite in the corresponding locations of the assembled box. Carefully lowering it straight down into place forced the viscous Loctite to squeeze out, sealing the joints. The pre-drilled screw holes assured the alignment of the panel and the tight seal against the inner panels.
The dado cuts of the four flat packs were easier and more reassuring, but the Loctite and patience resulted in a strong and leak-free scratch-built unit number five.
If were using veneered panels, or if for any other reason using screws through the side panels were to be avoided, I would install at least two guide pins diagonally in two corners of the box to assure alignment. To accomplish that without piercing the veneer, I would insert wood screws into the corners of the box down the point where the threads are fully into the wood. I would then cut the heads off the screws and grind the stumps to a point. With assistance, I would place the side panel on the pointed pegs to mark the location for holes in the panel to receive the pegs. Again with assistance, I would use a drill press to drill holes to a depth of one half the thickness of the panel. The points would be ground off the pegs leaving a smooth peg slightly shorter than the depth of the corresponding hole in the panel.
That’s a lot of work to avoid piercing veneer, but I would want the assurance of alignment provided by the guide pins. The glued panel would still need to be held in place by weights and/or clamps until the Loctite cured.
If I wanted veneer, I would apply veneer AFTER assembling the boxes and hiding imperfections, screws, etc with Bondo. Fortunately, in my basement man-cave veneer was unnecessary. I prefer the rounded corner look using a router and the “hides a multitude of sins” coverage of textured Duratex. That said, I greatly admire the skill and persistence required to cover large boxes with beautiful hardwood veneers.
Never done any veneer work except for edge work and yes it is beautiful when done correctly. Maybe this year I will give it a try.
I build one box ( 4 sides and a bottom panel) and hope to get the baffle panels in tomorrow. I bought 2 cheap corner clamps from harbor freight (3.99 each) to hold a corner of the box and used a spade bit to drill pocket joints. (No jig) Worked ok but I bought a single hole pocket jig today to put together the other box. I plan on using a couple of pocket joints on each baffel panel. One on bottom front and one on top back of each panel. This should hold panels in straight I hope.
For the last 20 1/8 by 30 inch panel I am going to really on pl premium to hold it in place. Only place I can put in screws without them being scene would be the on bottom of the box. Not sure how much that will help but might do it anyway. Think the pl premium will hold, is that what you did?
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38 minutes ago, DizRotus said:
I can’t speak for Mike, but I spread a thin layer of Loctite on the underside of the remaining side (top) panel around the perimeter and where it meets the inner baffle panels. Then I put a thick bead of Loctite in the corresponding locations of the assembled box. Carefully lowering it straight down into place forced the viscous Loctite to squeeze out, sealing the joints. The pre-drilled screw holes assured the alignment of the panel and the tight seal against the inner panels.
The dado cuts of the four flat packs were easier and more reassuring, but the Loctite and patience resulted in a strong and leak-free scratch-built unit number five.
If were using veneered panels, or if for any other reason using screws through the side panels were to be avoided, I would install at least two guide pins diagonally in two corners of the box to assure alignment. To accomplish that without piercing the veneer, I would insert wood screws into the corners of the box down the point where the threads are fully into the wood. I would then cut the heads off the screws and grind the stumps to a point. With assistance, I would place the side panel on the pointed pegs to mark the location for holes in the panel to receive the pegs. Again with assistance, I would use a drill press to drill holes to a depth of one half the thickness of the panel. The points would be ground off the pegs leaving a smooth peg slightly shorter than the depth of the corresponding hole in the panel.
That’s a lot of work to avoid piercing veneer, but I would want the assurance of alignment provided by the guide pins. The glued panel would still need to be held in place by weights and/or clamps until the Loctite cured.
If I wanted veneer, I would apply veneer AFTER assembling the boxes and hiding imperfections, screws, etc with Bondo. Fortunately, in my basement man-cave veneer was unnecessary. I prefer the rounded corner look using a router and the “hides a multitude of sins” coverage of textured Duratex. That said, I greatly admire the skill and persistence required to cover large boxes with beautiful hardwood veneers.
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1 hour ago, DizRotus said:
Understood. Using weights, clamps and Loctite will be very strong. In my case, veneer was never an issue. Bondo and Duratex hide the numerous screws.
Build quite a few car sub boxes, bondo wrap it in poly fill then a colored vinyl. Pocket hole joints are new for me, lots to learn.
Trying to build a small wood shop on a budget. So far I have bought a craftsman table saw, radial arm saw, miter saw, router with small table and cheap drill press. Hope to get it all set up this month so I can experiment with building horns and folded horn subs.
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10 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
If you use PL Premium to assemble there will be no gaps. To check for gaps prior to installing the last panel use a small pen light to check up and down the seam. If light shines through, add some adhesive to that spot.
I used pocket joints and pl premium to put box together. It's was a little tricky (for me away) I did not want to run screws from outside of the box to inside and mess up the walnut veneer.
Pl premium to fill gaps is what I was thinking, wasn't sure if it would throw off specs. Didn't think about the flashlight check, good idea. Hope to cut and install internals this weekend, glad I posted thanks for all the help.
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49 minutes ago, DizRotus said:
It’s not a minor question. The positioning of the internal panels is critical. Any significant deviation from Lil’Mike’s design will create something other than what was designEd and modeled.
Fortunately, the first four I built were flat packs from DIY Sound Group. The prec-cut panels and dado cuts guaranteed proper panel placement. Unfortunately, the flat packs are no longer available, apparently over concern that Lil’Mikes design could infringe a patent. Whether or not the design infringes a patent does not prevent DIY construction for personal use, but you must follow accurate plans exactly if you want the designed and modeled results. The fifth one I built from scratch following the plan exactly. The plans I used are attached as a pdf.
As I recall, the plan did not refer to angles, but identified points using dimensions. The specific length of each internal panel is indicated. The end of an internal panel is located X inches from the side and Y inches from the top of a side panel. The other end of the panel is also located by its distance from the side and top of a side panel. If carefully followed as to all internal panels, the angles will take care of themselves.
Yes dimensions and points id.but without cutting minor angles there would be small gap at baffle panel connection. This would create a very slight change in panel lengths. Mouth panel baffle would overhang outside box slightly.
Not trying to be difficult just want to get it right. Thanks!
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10 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
What is your question?
Probably a minor question but do I need to be concerned about the baffle panel angles. Not on plans, ( that I can see) I can easily figure out. Does cutting baffle panel angles change length of these enough to be.worried about? Hope this makes sense, thanks.
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On 1/26/2021 at 12:02 PM, CECAA850 said:
Get the half inch plyvand be sure the horn path dimensions are spot on.
Build the outside with the walnut veneered panels. Just picked up a some .5 BB plywood for inside. I will double check all internal measurements/panels.
Anybody build one of these, I have a mouth panel question.
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1 minute ago, DizRotus said:
It’s not clear to me if the wood is veneered plywood. In any case, I would not do it. The wood is free, but your time is not. After investing your time and money on something that should last for decades, is it worth a few dollars to alter the internal dimensions and end up with something not designed and modeled by Lil’ Mike.
YMMV
Yes sorry veneered plywood, plywood looks to be quality and that's why I was considering using it, good points.
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Got some free 20 1/8 by 53 by 11/16 walnut veneer panels with 1.25 solid walnut edges off craigslist. Started cutting outside panels for 2 exodus anarchy subwoofers today.
Would it be safe to use these for the inside panels? Plans state 1/2 inch panels these are 3/16 over. There are 5 inside panels so that's 15/16 total. Do I need to buy some 1/2 plywood for inside panels or can the over sized walnut panels be use safely. Thanks!
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If switch shorts out the fuse/relay should blow in fuse box preventing a fire. If you have a good/quick. main. crew I would let them do it.
It's not hard to do yourself just make sure you remove fuse/trip relay so you don't get shocked. Google search on how to replace light switch should show you what you are getting into. A good replacement switch at HD should run about 7 bucks. I would take out old switch and take it with you to make sure you get the correct switch.
Don't forgot the fuse/relay will turn off more than the one switch and could affect memory ect. on other devices. Good luck!
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4 hours ago, DizRotus said:
You might edit the subject line to indicate redundant post.
Good idea, thanks!
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Mods accidently double posted please delete, thanks.
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Looked over at Avs, during my short search I couldn't find a top end freq but was described as more of a mid woofer? One search stated it would go up to 3500hz, didn't sound right since I read tapped horns have a narrow freq band.
80 hz should work fine. Could these be tuned to merge well with my front f 20, will be used mostly for music. I live in Atlanta, thanks.
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Anyone know true freq range of exodus anarchy sub? Thinking of building 2 to fill in back lower end of 2 side and 2 rear surounds. (Surrounds are 2 way) Front end is an f20, thanks.
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Anyone know true freq range of exodus anarchy sub? Thinking of building 2 to fill in back lower end of 2 side and 2 rear surounds. (2 way) Front end is an f20, thanks.
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Would possible an exodus anarchy sub work? Narrow enough to fit flat with doghouse on top. (7.5inches wide) Been looking at building 2 to supplement some 2 way surround speakers I am building.
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6 hours ago, NBPK402 said:
I looked at the specs for my Kappa 15c woofers and saw that they can move almost 1/2" at the lower frequencies. I have noticed sometimes a thud sound, so I have wondered for a while if they might be hitting since when I i stall them the gasket compresses to where there is about a finger nail gap between the mounting board and the basket. I am going to use some 12mm mdf for rings and install them on the center channel to see if the thud sound still happens. Now this thud is not when listening loud at all...it is when l8stening at -40 to -50 on my Yamaha which when using my phone spl meter is below 90db(midrange and above reading).
Are the 1/2" woofer rings going to affect anything besides the delays?
Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
I seem to remember other members having this issue, you might need to put a spacer under speaker. If members with more experience with a kappa c don't response here you might want do a separate post. I use one in my DIY center but it's front mounted, good luck.
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You forgot to sign the brace o magic, I like the idea of dating it. I have 2 SW 12's great for HT.
I love the SW 12's cabinet, stripped and strained mine to match my chorus speakers. Been looking st CLS, ect. for a cheap pair of heavy duty subs for upgrade. Car subs come up cheap sometimes on for sale sites. Good luck with your project!
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On 10/25/2020 at 9:38 AM, AndreG. said:
Hello there,
My KG1.5s looked just the same, scratches all over. In the end, i decided to strip the paint off. I used acetone and steel-wool to get rid of the black stuff. Here´s my thread:
Once You stripped the old paint, you can decide wether you want to oil, stain or just repaint them. I found that i only had to do minimal sanding. I´m happy with the result.
I have stripped a black academy and sw12 sub with good results. If you look at the pic above notice how the grain stands out because of the old paint. Imho the highlight looks great when oiled or polyurethaned.
You can try steel wool or sand paper but you still have to match the paint. In my experience this is hard to do without redoing the entire cabinet.
Exodus anarchy subwoofer question
in Subwoofers
Posted
Ok When I get back to it I will leave it out. Going to order subs tomorrow and finish boxes this weekend. Thanks for all the help!