Lbk
-
Posts
314 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Lbk
-
-
Guessing the guys is irresponsible, has been been posted for 10 days. If your really interestred maybe worth to keep trying, price is not to bad. Not affiliated with seller.
Just checked ad he has a text phone number that you could try, good luck!
-
Chorus I's listed in electronics Woodstock ga. 650.00
-
1
-
-
You have a new PM
-
1 hour ago, fanofbully said:
I am interested, I will send you a follow up PM.
I am building a custom center channel that will fit my entertainment center using some spare parts I have lying around, and before I place a bunch of money in it I want to see how it sounds.
Attached is a raw version of the Top Section.
So basically I am bored, have a bunch of junk parts that my wife wants out and have no clue what I am doing
Send you a PM. There are some guys here that could help/lead you in the right direction if your interested.
-
Found it klipsch Quartet xover all orginal, date on mounting plate is from 1989. I have never used it I bought off ebay with a k 61 horn I needed, package deal. This has a T11A autotransformer which only has 3 taps. ( 0-1-3)
Let me know if your interested. Curious, what are you building?
Thanks
Larry in Atlanta ga.
-
Just now, fanofbully said:
Sent PM, I am located in Oxford Mississippi.
Got it, sent a reply. Will check and let you know first thing in the morning.
-
2 hours ago, fanofbully said:
WTB a single Crossover from one of the following:
Chorus II
Forte II
Quartet
KP-301 II
KP-362
Also looking for a K-792. Just need the magnet so a K79 or k75 will work also.
I think I have a Quarter xover, I will check tomorrow and let you know. Where are you located?
-
Look for - small tear in chorusII radiator - in technical/mods or do a search for same. Some goods ideas on how to fix the tear.
-
1
-
-
Carl - Maynard - thanks for your help, think I will take your advice and pass.
-
2 hours ago, tube fanatic said:
Fifty bucks could cover any needed parts if both output xfmrs are in good shape. A tech’s labor would be another matter. 3 watts would power your speakers, but the unknown is whether it is enough to satisfy your listening levels.
You need to be careful with stuff like this since many have been stored in damp basements or sheds for long periods of time. Can you post the link to the CL listing? I can look at it this afternoon.
Maynard
I'll try but every since my update (I didn't want) I can't find my clipboard. It's listed in Atlanta craigslist under electronics.
-
40 minutes ago, tube fanatic said:
If I recall, this one uses a single ended 6v6 per channel for about 3 wpc. Correct me if I am mistaken. Has it been restored professionally? If not, you should factor in the cost of that. Can you post pics of the amp chassis? Would the seller let you pull the chassis to photograph the underside? The gamble here is whether an output xfmr, or the power xfmr is blown.
Maynard
It's on craigslist Atlanta, says it works (all tubes light up) but starchy sound. Claims it can be cleaned professional for 50 bucks. ( yea right) The cabinet it comes in is nice but I have no use for it. Also has a turn table.
I thinking it might be something I to pass on but could it run a pair of chorus II's? Thanks!
I
-
Nice looking stromberg Carlson rp 726mp console, 95 bucks. Is this worth buying for the tube amp, thanks.
-
On 8/25/2020 at 12:36 PM, Lbk said:
Listened this morning and the sonicaps seem to be slightly cleaner. This could because of a bad solder job and not Dayton audio caps, overall no major difference. Will have to put in other sonicaps and see that cleans up the right speaker a little.
Been listening for a week now and the sonicaps are definitely crisper, cleaner and a little more detailed.( They seemed to have opened up some) I will try to get the sonicaps in the other speaker this weekend and see what happens sound wise.
-
Rick if still have and want to get rid of the 18's I will take them. I can come anytime but would like to see the Meh's with the ports cut. Thanks, send me a PM if you like.
-
All good ideas, common bond seems to be PVA glue. Choose of material seems to vary, dollar bill looks interesting just wondering if it will absorb glue. (Is that even necessary)
In my haste (did't plan it that way) I did a repair with stuff mentioned above but no actual patch just glue. So I think I will put a small patch on rear once I decide which material to use.
Flexible, piston didn't look at that way but I think your right. I was thinking vibration so flexible glue would have been important.
Dave appreciate your response had I not got impatien definitely would have try it. I have to order some stuff from PE so think I will get bottle to have and experiment with.
-
Quick research
Titrbound, Elmer's, Etc. are a PVA glue and the most common wood glue. (usually yellow in color) Water and mildew resistant, stays flexible, does not affect paper but does soak into it.
I think my repair will work but now have that stupid small black stop on radiator. For professional's like dave I think his suggestion would work well and be quick and easy.
The PVA method for diyers seems to be a good alternative. Cheap, easy and not too time consuming. Hopefully this post will help someone else down the road, Do your research and don't be in a hurry.
-
Dave just thought you might have some experience with - different grades- since you do speaker work. Thanks
Read about that method but was worried about flexible and longative. Should done more research but this was an unexpected repair and I'd been without music for almost a week. I have a couple old speakers think I'll experiment just out of curious. Thanks!
-
14 hours ago, Lbk said:
Left speaker - Radiator repaired, sonicaps 6 uf and 2 2uf are in. Dayton 68uf in woofer section.
Right speaker - all caps are Dayton audio.
It's late so I am listening at low volume and really don't hear any difference between the two. Tomorrow I will be able step on it a little and see what I think
Don't know if matter's but daytons have been installed for a while and sonicaps are a new/fresh install.
Listened this morning and the sonicaps seem to be slightly cleaner. This could because of a bad solder job and not Dayton audio caps, overall no major difference. Will have to put in other sonicaps and see that cleans up the right speaker a little.
-
9 hours ago, Dave A said:
Use the glue made for this purpose. Simply Speakers will sell you some. I think you are making a mistake to go and get something else. Yes I have used it and keep a 2oz bottle on hand as you can use it for things like loose dust caps too. That passive has 8 screws so it is not like you have much work to take it back off when the right glue gets there and do it right.
You may be right (Hope not) but I've been without music for almost a week and wanted to get it fixed. Amazon and others sell it and price ranges from around 8 bucks to 25. (Pro vs Regular, snake oil ?) I plan on ordering some to have around, amazon is like 8 bucks with free shipping.
The support is good advice but the tear was not to bad and I didn't think it was needed. Curious, has anyone tried Elmer's glue and paper towel method? I didn't like the idea of using Elmer's glue, longative.
-
Went to home depot looking for goo and did find any, I think I was thinking of goop anyway. I did find shoe glue from loctite, states uv and water resistant, vibration and Impact resistant, flexible, durable and dries clear. Sounded good so I bought it.
I would rather have tried Dave's suggestion but this is readily available, I think it will work fine. It dries clear but does turn speaker darker where applied. Thanks for the suggestions!
-
Left speaker - Radiator repaired, sonicaps 6 uf and 2 2uf are in. Dayton 68uf in woofer section.
Right speaker - all caps are Dayton audio.
It's late so I am listening at low volume and really don't hear any difference between the two. Tomorrow I will be able step on it a little and see what I think
Don't know if matter's but daytons have been installed for a while and sonicaps are a new/fresh install.
-
3 hours ago, iaRIVR said:
Thanks all. The Crites inductors and autotransformers both look more substantial than the stock ones, and my brain is wired to assume bigger is better.
Interesting twist - I opened them up last night and someone had already put Sonicaps in there. So maybe the MAHL tweeter is on the table now 😝
If you a haven't put your xover back in you may to check the soldering connections. I just finished switching from Dayton to sonicaps and orginal owner did not do a great job putting in the daytons. Good luck with your upgrades.
-
MAHL's are nice! I think you will like them if you purchase.
-
57 minutes ago, iaRIVR said:
Thanks all. The Crites inductors and autotransformers both look more substantial than the stock ones, and my brain is wired to assume bigger is better.
Interesting twist - I opened them up last night and someone had already put Sonicaps in there. So maybe the MAHL tweeter is on the table now 😝
F20 which direction
in Subwoofers
Posted
Going to put an f 20 sub up front centered on an 11ft wall, room is 11 by 17 by 8 ft. Which direction should I point the mouth opening, towards the near wall or into the room. If pointed towards near wall I could give it up to a 6 inch clearance, thanks.