Lbk
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Posts posted by Lbk
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Dave I'am guessing you have use it? Do you know if it is similar/same as contact rubber cement. Looks like a great product but only online and takes 4 to 7 shipping days, would like to get fixed sooner while speaker is apart.
I have seen goo at home depot, semi-flexible which I think would be good. Artto do you know about it's longative?Maybe I could do goo on inside buy black rubber cement for outside.
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I was doing some xover work on my chorus II and noticed a half inch tear in radiator. It's not too bad if pushed out from rear you can't even see it.
I would like to patch/fix from rear only if possible. I have some ideas but would like to get other thoughts, thanks.
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9 hours ago, RandyH000 said:
pictures , would be cool-
I'll try to get some this week, things have been kind of crazy lately. The zxpc horn's just sets on top of chorus II and is wired direct to mid output, nothing fancy.
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8 hours ago, RandyH000 said:
--a K61k is composed pf a Chorus 2 larger horn mated to a K53 driver ---------both the mids drivers of the Chorus 1 and 2 are exactly the same driver-
Yeap, what don"t you like or are trying to fix?
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2 hours ago, Pstores said:
I was actually going to leave the Horns as is. And put the K 61 K driver on the chorus I horn.
Xovers are different from chorus I to II, not sure how much that would change things. I build a sealed cabinet using kappa c 15, k61and k79 with B&C ti for tweeter. Crossover was a chorus II I build with all new from B&C, including inductors. Went in between my chorus II's, bass was a little different on Center channel but I liked it.
K61 has now been replaced with a zxpc 17 by 11 to the match horns on top of my chorus II's. Love the zxpc horns, 2 inch opening.
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48 minutes ago, jjptkd said:
I've done both complete replacements and just re-caps a few different times it seems I always prefer the complete replacements bass seems a little tighter a little better separation and clarity not huge differences but noticeable.
Recap and get a mahl from Dave a.
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1 hour ago, MechEngVic said:
There is an advantage, it's a newer capacitor. An electrolytic is used only for cost savings. It would be hard to hear a difference between the two caps in this position if they were new. Focus on the caps in the signal path. Stick to film and foil or paper in oil caps for best sound.
Actually they are about the same age, the Dayton being only slightly.older. It should be fun to hear if any difference, will find out tomorrow.
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5 minutes ago, MechEngVic said:
Klipsch uses electrolytics in less critical positions and they calculate the higher ESR of those caps into the overall impedence of the circuit. The dayton will have a lower ESR initially but the circuit will be fine even after that cap drifts.
Do you think there is any advantage in the Dayton over the electroytic? I am happy with the bass and would hate to screw it up. Alot of this is over my head but I am learning,thanks.
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8 minutes ago, MechEngVic said:
Since the 68uf cap is not in the signal path, as long as it measures well, it's fine
Ok thanks! I have no way to measure but speakers sound fine so tomorrow I will change out the 6uf and 2 2uf.
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Finally pull 1 xover from a chorus II. In Bob's kit the 68uf is electrolytic, the former ownet replace it with a Dayton audio 68uf. (Huge compared to the elec.). I like the bass and was wondering if the Dayton 68 uf would affect the testing if replace just the 1 6uf and the 2 2uf and keep the Dayton 68uf in the woofer section.
Since the highs are in question l am thinking it should be ok.? Opinions, let me know so I can exchange the xover caps. Thanks!
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When I bought my chorus II's I also bought a recap kit from Bob crites. When I opened them up there where dayton caps in xovers so I didn't rebuild them. Now I am thinking I need to rebuild with BC's kit, you guys think it's worth it? Any use for Dayton's if I do rebuild or just throw out, thanks.
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16 hours ago, Irisonray said:
Thanks for all the information everyone. Since I had previously updated the crossovers & tweeters and now have the Passives out (and like many others now spending more time at home) I’ve decided to complete the updates on these speakers. I’ve taken all the components out and made new gaskets, sealed all the inside joints. The cabinets are in excellent condition and are seemingly very solid (no bracing needed at this time). BUT - the previous owner added pink insulation in the top of the cabinets which I can appreciate sound wise. However, I’m not a fan of the fiberglass fibers laying around inside so I’m looking for other options (foam?) to possibly replace the insulation with. The original grey foam (one wall covered and a partial wall and the top covered) is still intact. I was looking at melamine foam but it’s very expensive especially for the amount I would need. Any less expensive suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks again!
Please give a review on before and after on upgrades, thanks!
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11 minutes ago, Iteachstem said:
A little fun reading for everyone. I like the idea, but even placing 1 or 2 subs in most rooms can sometimes be tricky (and that's even before the wife factor) ...now, trying to properly locate 4 subs in an average room...good luck.
https://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/audiokinesis-swarm-subwoofer-system/
From what I've read my room 11by 17 by 8 are good dimension for a system. Took me longer to set up my chorus II's then the 2 subs.
I build an f20 I need to get set up later this month, get to start all over. Probably lose the DIY and run the f20 upfront as a TV stand and the b15 will go somewhere. Maybe try it behind the sofa.
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17 hours ago, Btseagle98 said:
@LBK I am In Lawrenceville near Sugarloaf Mills. Funny thing is that I bought a center speaker yesterday and met the guy in Doraville...at the Mad Italian on Savoy.
I went with the RC3 center I found on Facebook Marketplace. It sounds so much better than the old Accoustimass center I had rigged up. I actually had to turn the center channel down a little.
Ive read numerous reviews that indicated the RC3 would be overpowered by the RF3 but that’s not what I’m experiencing. It serves my purpose perfectly.
Eventually I’ll swap out the rears for some Klipsch as well but that’ll have to wait.
From what I've read the rc3 is suppose to be a good-correct match for yours mains. Some people also used the more expensive rc7, some say it's overkill.
System looks good so far, just need to find some nice surround speakers. Good luck with the hunt and enjoy.
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7 hours ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
i wouldn't call bracing or dampening getting carried away----------- lots of people add bracing to speaker cabinets & some type of material to driver baskets. ask morey james about bracing & look at what he did to fortes. quite a few other members here have braced the cabinets of many models , including chorus , i would consider chorus cabinets a huge box as well & they can benefit from bracing just as much as any other model. yes metal horns ring more than plastic but it still cant hurt to add something to the backsides of plastic horns , ---- no need to go overboard but a few pieces of dynamat or rope caulk on the mid horn for a couple bucks is worth a try , if you dont like it its easy to remove.
im not sure who here owns chorus2 speakers ,--- but for anyone that does , go ahead & slap the side of the cabinet & listen how hollow it sounds but more important listen to the ring that can happen most likely from the large passive basket &/or combo of plastic horns & no bracing/dampening. same thing can happen on fortes & many other larger models to some degree.
i own other brands of speakers & one thing most companies really stress is a solid braced cabinet with as low of resonance as possible, & they use cast alum or a composite basket for mids & woofers to be more rigid. i can hit the side of my def techs & they sound & feel like a solid piece of wood due to the bracing & very thick motor board & cabinet panels. when i hit or slap every klipsch speaker i have owned, besides the Khorn, they are terribly hollow sounding & some actually ring like a bell.
just like any mod or upgrade, some say there is no benefit while others who have done it say otherwise. some say ALL crossovers need to be recapped at 20 years no matter what & some have speakers older than that that sound perfectly fine to them. if you want to brace cabinets or add dynamat to the baskets, do it & decide for yourself if you
By all means try what you want, maybe you will have a better experience than me. I didn't try bracing or stuffing inside the cabinet, didn't feel the need especially with a sub. I would rather spend/time money on a good sub or 2 (bought or diy) than bracing a chorus cabinet.
In my room with chorus II did not notice a difference when I added rope caulk, open cell form, felt inside the horns so I feel it's a waste of time. Because of this I feel very little will by gained damping as op suggests. Ymmv.
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On 7/29/2020 at 4:42 PM, Irisonray said:
Im working on updates to my CHORUS II's. I have added Crites crossovers and titanium tweeters, fiberglass insulation in the top of the cabinets and dynamat on the woofer baskets. Would I gain any benefit from putting Dynamat on the basket of my Passives?
Thanks!
I am running some zxpc 17 by 10 on top of my chorus II's wired off the mid k61. (K61 is discounted) Rebuild x overs with crites kit, crites ti, rope caulk on tweet and k61, tried open cell form in tweeter and k61.
Zxpc is my best upgrade then crites tweeter ti. Except for rebuild xovers I would not waste my time on any of the others stuff. I would work on placement unless your happy with where they are.
First ran the zxpc's with some ev dh1a. Sounded good but was a scratchy sounding in places on some cds. ( same as k61) As an experiment ran some clarion 5.25 car speakers on zxpc's and love it. I own chorus I's, II's and with the zxpc horns chorus III's.
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Your onkyo reciever should be able to go into phantom mode where it will work without a center speaker. Search for a manual online that should help you set up reciever/speakers.
You may or may like the sound but if you don't at least it will give time to find a cheap center. They come up on craigslist all the time.
Where are you located? I live in doraville so must be fairly close to me.
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23 hours ago, GD Vinyl said:
Hello all. I'm new to the group and found it looking for Academy center online. I have a set of Forte II for my fronts and Quartets for the rears, but can't seem to find a center to complete it. Any help is appreciated! Brent
Where are you located?
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1 minute ago, RandyH000 said:
thank you -----
Just noticed on page 2 of this thread jwgorman has a link posted.
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4 hours ago, RandyH000 said:
are these the 18x 10 horns on Ebay
Look up seller zxpc on ebay.
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I run a splitter off the sub out to the hafler then one channel to each sub. Had to play with the amp to get the balance right between the 2 subs. Too much power to the DIY behind the sofa and you could hear it's location.
I was a little surprised that with some tuning how well I got the DIY to match the b15. Been trying to get my soundfield wide and deep, 2nd sub did help some.
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I have some options now! The crown amp looks nice and may work for the b15 if I can't it's amp fix reasonably. Thanks!
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9 hours ago, RandyH000 said:
or you can look for an amp that can be bridged with the 2 subwoofers ----
The hafler can be bridged and I thought about doing that. Running both on series or parallel depend in ohms load.
I did some research and a spitter for 2 active sub is recommend. So I ***-ume running a 2 channel amp would provide 2 separate amp supplies?
Also found out lower level AVR's (1000 bucks and under) with 2 subs out are wired together so just like using a splitter. Only higher end AVR's have independent sub control. So splitter should be no problem.
I have a low power kenwood amp I could spit off to DIY sub but not sure it has enough power. I will play with it today and let you guys know if I let the magic smoke out. Still open to any - all ideas.
Wuzzer hope your not insulted, I trust you word just being cautious.
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I have an old hafler amp (240watts per channel) that is running my avr sub out to a revel b15, works good. The amp on the revel started to sound like it had a bad connection so I took it out. I visually checked it but did not see/smell any problems, plan on reflowing the boards and then go from there.
The other sub is diy sealed 18 inch seismic audioI I build on the cheap. It's behind the sofa and adds a little bump to rump. I would like to run both off the hafler but don't want to burn anything up. I could do without the diy sub if I had to.
My fear is running the hafler off 1 sub out to both channels could create some kind loop-power issue and blow something up.
New avr would be nice but not going to happen right now.
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Problem with Dayton caps?
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Sorry for delay, I have BC'S caps in the upper section, keep the Dayton 68uf in woofer lower section.
When installing the caps I notice a tear in radiator which needs to be fixed while speaker is apart. So fortunately it will be a day or before I can run speaker and listen/test. Will keep you posted