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Rolox

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Posts posted by Rolox

  1. On 3/5/2022 at 11:43 PM, Flevoman said:

    Good day,

    OK, I'm happy... Today on Marktplaats (The Dutch version of ebay) I bought a pair of Chorus 1. 

    You rarely see this speaker offered for sale here in the Netherlands, so I'm very happy to been able to find them. 

     

    But now I have a few questions

    -these are very old speakers, I think 35 years. Are there any components that I can better replace because they have decayed over the years? 

    -before this I had the Heresy 2

    It strikes me how much the speakers are similar in terms of sound. Had expected a bigger difference honestly

    I have the feeling that the Heresy 2 sounds a bit fresher, maybe a little tighter 

    The Chorus sounds a bit more like a horn. 

    Soundstage is bigger of the chorus and I can hear the difference in the low. 

    But I'm a bit surprised to notice that the Heresy2 has a more fresh and tight sound. 

     

    Is what I describe as a sound image recognizable? Or is there something wrong in the Chorus 

    Are those the same chorus that were also advertised on 2ememain.be (the Belgian marktplaats)? I saw a pair that had been painted white for a very interesting price but they didn't stay long... are you the happy buyer? 🙂

  2. 16 hours ago, arnokill said:

    ik heb cornwall III luidsprekers reeds een 10tal jaren in mijn bezit en deze staan nu al een paar jaren te spelen op  op mijn sansui au 9500 ss versterker ,ik ben heel tevreden over de klank ,  en een vriend van mij heeft ze altijd al willen kopen omdat hij ze ongelofelijk goed vindt klinken maar door omstandigheden had hij er toen het geld niet voor.

    Nu zijn de omstandigheden veranderd en heeft hij 1 jaar geleden de cornwall Iv gekocht, hij vondt ze niet zo goed klinken dan mijn cornwall III en is dan ook op zoek gegaan naar dezelfde versterker dan ik bezit , ,en die heeft hij ook kunnen kopen, volledig laten reviseren en heeft er zijn cornwall Iv op aangesloten 

    Hij heeft ze zo  6 maanden  beluisterd ,en komt soms langs om te vergelijken ,en wij vinden allebei de cornwall III een mooier voller geluid hebben, dan zijn cornwall Iv, we dachten dat er misschien toch een verschil zou zijn door de versterker en hebben dan toch de versterkers eens verwisseld en het resultaat was ; de cornwall III vonden we nog steeds beter spelen ! we hebben verschillende stijlen muziek gespeelt,rock,blues ,jazz...de cornwall III  is gewoon beter.....gewoon de mening van mij en mijn jeugdvriend...hij weet nog niet wat hij gaat doen...zijn cornwalls verkopen en op zoek gaan naar cornwall III, hij gaat  even afwachten...zo zie je maar...smaken verschillen...

    The IV is definitely a more modern, more linear / audiophile sounding speaker. Which makes it a BETTER speaker objectively for most. But some might prefer the more colored sound of the III... that midrange horn on the IV however is a masterpiece and the tiny mid horn on the previous versions is seriously limiting the speaker. Personally I think the CW IV is one of the very best speakers money can buy and, although not cheap, is fantastic value compared to the competition.

    • Like 2
  3. 2 hours ago, Amphicar said:

    Thank you all for the input.  I have a rough idea of what I will do but not pulling the trigger yet.  Two very large trees fell on my barn, taking financial priority over amp upgrades.  All in good time!

     Just a thought: after trying various amps (no tubes, but some class A solid state) and going through many disappointments (reliability for example) I’m now bi amping my system with some pocket class D amps. Really if you can try something like a Charlize or Trends TA2024 or TA2020 amp, on the high pass, if you are ready to give it some quality linear power supply and a little bit of tweaking (coupling caps etc) you might well forget about expensive tubes or high end transistors ;) at least for a while. I’m cheap, but my ears are good, and they are surprisingly well behaved little marvels! 

    • Like 3
  4. 18 hours ago, The Dude said:

    I do, but to be honest with increase in shipping costs, not sure I could honor the price offered. Provide a shipping zip and I can get a better quote.

    Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
     

    Well that's the tricky part: I live in Europe, Belgium, Brussels!! I have absolutely no idea how much shipping would cost. I do know however that I refrain buying from the ZXPC Ebay store because the shipping cost for a pair of horns is absolutely ridiculous. But then that's Ebay and their global shipping method which, if fast and secure, is also more expensive than some other options I think.

     

    Just think about it. There is still a small possibility that I finally get the horns I ordered from that store in Curaçao (almost three weeks since my payment and after giving me some lousy excuses about the covid situation they now chose to ghost me and kept my money). But all other stores are out of stock and I have no idea if they will ever have that horn back - seems to be the chinese company who makes those sold a certain amount and now production has stopped and we won't see it back.

  5. On 11/10/2019 at 6:24 PM, The Dude said:

     

    I have a pair of PRV WG45-50 for sale. I ended up scoring a pair of K510s, so these were going to be used for a 3 way that I was going to build. However, to many speakers, projects that need funding, so I sold the drivers that I was going to use and now have these taking up space. I did try them with EV DH1As and didn't care much for the sound. Also, the mounting flange seems to be a little warped, maybe a thicker gasket would be good. Even that being said, I was still able to get the drivers to mount. Asking $65.00 for the pair shipped to the lower 48.

     

    8c46414b4d0973a15ed158eff726caae.jpg102e742de2f53b8aa489b95c0a2f4ebd.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

     

     

    I know this was two years ago (!) but do you still have those for sale, by any chance??

  6. I would like to know if there's a way of knowing, when selecting midrange taps at the autoformer output, when the driver is in phase and when it is not?

    For example, if I select the taps "X" and "4", which tap is + and which is -? 

    It would help me time/phase aligning my tweeters if I would know when the mid driver is electrically in phase and when it is inverted...

     

    thanks!

  7. I've used a Trends TA10.1 mini class D amplifier full range with LaScala for a couple years. 6 clean watts per channel and we used to throw parties every weekend (those were the days). Never did I run the tiny amp into distortion.

    Now I still use that tiny amp but, since I'm actively bi-amping, there's another class D amp (60watts / channel) on the bass horns. 

    Just for laughs, you might want to buy one of those tiny class D marvels (from brands such as Topping, Aiyma, SMSL...) just to try. No it won't beat some expensive tubes, but seeing an amp the size of two cigarettes packs power big speakers like LaScala to deafening levels is a grin inducing moment, and you might even find the ratio between sound quality / reduced floorprint / ridiculously low current draw / zero produced heat / signal to noise ratio / ridiculously low price to be extremely favorable. They usually respond well to some internal components upgrade (such as coupling / decoupling caps etc) and the 12V versions love a very silent linear PSU to replace the  laptop-style SMPS.

    Anyways, it's fun to try!

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  8. Modern Lascala have seen considerable improvement of their crossovers, aiming for smoother frequency response and better phase relationships between drivers. They also use a much better tweeter than the old K77, and the bass horns do not resonate as much due to thicker construction.

    That's not to say you can't enjoy a vintage pair, with some mods, they can be fantastic, but unless you go "crazy" with updated networks and 2inch midrange horn and drivers, and better tweeters (and the woodworking to accept all those mods!!) a vintage pair will never have the edge IMHO. 

    • Like 1
  9. I use the mid-high section of a pair of original ALK Universal networks. The capacitors used are from Solen and there's one Hovland Musicap.

    I always found the treble a bit sharp with my Beyma CP25 tweeters - recently I bypassed the last Solen in line with the tweeter with some Miflex KPCU, 1% value of the caps it bypasses, to good results. Then I decided to bypass the first leg of that 3rd order high-pass with some Russian K75 caps, also 1% of the bigger cap value, and it improved things further. No dramatic change of tonality, no night and day difference, but the high treble has lost all artificial sharpness and edge and sounds now much more natural and "organic". I didn't want to completely replace the original caps and just adding bypasses was an easy thing to do.

  10. I'm bi-amping my system with tiny cheap Chinese Class D amps (Trends TA10.1 modded on the high pass, Breeze Audio on the low pass) and it never sounded better. I'm done looking at vintage class A amps with scandalous energy draw and questionable reliability. Everything stays on 24/7, just press "play" and there! MUSIC!

    The tiny amps I use are also dead silent which is a must on 100+dB horns.

    • Like 1
  11. It's hard to answer really. You can make a fantastic Cornscala just like you can make a pretty lousy one. Cabinet construction, crossover (including with parts you will choose), drivers, everything down to the smallest detail will have tremendous impact on the final result. It's probably possible to make a Cornscala that surpasses a Cornwall IV if you are gifted and know exactly what you are doing.

     

    On the other hand, I've spent a whole afternoon with CWIV, and they are easily one of the best speakers I've heard ever since I got interested in the hobby 25 years ago. and I've heard MANY! Really a fantastic loudspeaker and, dare I say it, a tremendous deal at the price compared to the competition.

  12. Great work, but I'm going to be a little bit critic: with all the posts about the superiority of 2 inch mid horns and drivers, why not making your own Fastrac or Eliptrac 2inch horn, mated with the new PRV D2200Ph phenolic driver? Would give you even better sound than anything based on a K400 design.

     

    As tweeter I always recommend Beyma CP25... a great tweeter made in Spain and widely available in Europe. But, it's quite big, and won't fit in a stock size LaScala top hat.

     

    Qudos for the build tho! I wish I had your woodworking talents!

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  13. There's no easy answer for this. You should go out there and listen to the IV. Possibly side by side with three.

    There are people who won't hear a difference, others who will find it's night and day, it all depends on your sensitivity and ears.

    Heck, there are people who can't hear differences between amps or DACs... for others, upgrading in those fields will yield huge improvements. 

    Your ears are the only ones that should decide, and no one else's! 

  14. For what it's worth, I've been bi-amping my system with tiny chip amps for years

    Breeze audio BA100 on the bass horns (25USD without PSU!)

    Modded Trends TA10.1 on the mid/highs

     

    it all sounds fantastic

     

    all those amps react very well to a quality, low noise linear power supply which brings them the refinement of much more expensive amps. Really something to consider. Plenty of options on AliExpress - I use one from ZeroZone.

  15. 10 hours ago, larryk said:

    I have been using the A55G's in my Cornwall 1's for the last few years.  I recently changed to the A55G/2's and in my system the result is much improved resolution.  Vocals sound clearer and more natural.  The music seems to flow better.  Of course YMMV and everyone has different things they are looking for.  For me though the upgrade is well worth it.

    That's good to know, thanks! 🙂

  16. 18 hours ago, Curious_George said:

    The newer horn geometry of the ZXPC 18x10 horn may sound better than the EV SM120. It’s a personal preference. 
     

    In general, 2” drivers have less distortion than 1” drivers, but other factors play into that as well. For a three-way system, the 18x10 horn appears to be a perfect choice due to its flat response from 400 ~ 10kHz, unequalized. 
     

    I listened to both the K55V and 2200Ph on the 18x10 and both sounded great. I give the 2200Ph the edge though. There is some magic going on between the 18x10 and 2200Ph. The sound is very natural, detailed and dynamic.

    The hesitation I have concerns the directivity of the horn. The EV SM120 offers an ultra wide 120° dispersion; I wonder if the ZXPC horn wouldn't be quite beamy, maybe too beamy for a closer-than-optimal listening position (around 10 feet from the speakers!)

  17. Currently using A55G drivers on EV SM120 horns. Crossover frequencies 500 and 6000Hz. Passive at 6000Hz, active at 500. I can use whatever mid driver I want as the crossover system allows for multiple attenuation schemes.

    If I were to upgrade, should I consider:

    1) keep the existing horns and try the new A55G/2 driver (is there really much of a difference?)

    2) buy a pair of ZXPC 18x11 horns and a pair of PRV D2200ph?

     

    In other words, is it really worth it to go with a 2inch driver??

     

    Thanks

  18. Eminence Kappa 15C work well in LaScala; they won't give you DEEPER bass (no woofer can in a Lascala enclosure) but they will give you better DEFINITION of upper bass and low midrange. Maximum extension of the diaphragm is smaller, so if you are a headbanger and listen to bass heavy stuff, it might not be for you - or it might be perfect if you use a couple of subs and an ACTIVE CROSSOVER to remove the lowest frequencies from your LaScala.

     

    Stock K33 woofers are a good compromise if you don't want to fiddle around and occasionally listen very loud without a high pass filter.

     

    Generally speaking, the ONLY way to get more deep bass from LaScala is to add one or two good subwoofers.

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