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Everything posted by Rolox

  1. This is one of my go-to test tracks for bass dynamics:
  2. If you are inclined to modding the Khorns, you could try some EV SM120 mid horns and Beyma CP25 tweeter; those have a much wider, smoother dispersion and are IMHO much more listenable than the Long throw K400 horn, especially in a small space. They would also allow you to keep your existing crossover networks and midrange drivers, it's all plug and play, build a top hat for the new horns, connect the drivers to the crossover and you're good to go! Aesthetics won't be fantastic but they probably would sound much better (some acoustic treatment on the side walls next to the mid horns might help further). They are also much more controlled dispersion vertically and mine work very well in a low ceiling, almost near-field configuration (see attached pictures; my "LaScala on steroids", crossover 400Hz and 6KHz although I have an active crossover at 400Hz).
  3. (I just saw you are using a Scott tube amp: probably a very good amp but I would still suggest you to try a mini class D amp for a more detailed, « modern » sound - worse case scenario you can use it in the kitchen or give it to the kids, they are so small and cheap!
  4. Acoustic treatments: you can find Basotect panels on EBay quite easily - and not too expensive - otherwise Vicoustic Cinema Round (Premium) are a good reasonable cost option. As Others said the ceiling needs to be treated.
  5. I would suggest a good little class D amp (Amptastic Mini 1, Trends TA10.1...) a good phono preamp and a nice vintage turntable. You can also use a full function preamp and use the mini amp as power amp. Believe me, there’s real synergy between flea-power class D and Klipsch heritage! 8 watts is all you’ll ever need in that room!
  6. I used to have a TDM unit, they have a great reputation and I liked mine but the K231 is in a different league, transparent, open, and incredibly dynamic - and super silent. There’s no way back for me. It feels like I’m promoting too much a product - disclaimer: l’m not affiliated in any way with Sublime Acoustic, but when something is that good, you want others to experience it as well!
  7. Just for the record, I was announced a two weeks backlog but it took a week for my crossover to be shipped. I do know however that Mark from Sublime Acoustic is getting more and more orders so... in any case, you should definitely give it a try - and (this is important) give it some time to break in, and have some juice flowing through it while while doing so (I turn the power amps off and push the preamp output close to max ). Some electronics are more sensitive to break-in than others; the K231 went from « huh ho » to « wow » (at the beginning the treble was so sharp I was thinking of sending it back but I’m glad I didn’t).
  8. There’s a reason why the crossover to the tweeter has been lowered from 6000 Hz to 4500 Hz. Just do a search on this forum about « replacement mid horn » and you will see how many looked for a better alternative and why they thought it necessary. I’m not alone here. A stock Klipsch sounds great but if your room is smaller than average that beamy midrange gets tiring pretty quickly.
  9. I can vouch for the K231 crossover. I use it both for subs and at 400Hz between bass horns and mid/ highs. Sound quality is extraordinary, way above any other crossover I've had; probably as good as Bryston 10B at a fraction of the price. just look at the specs! mine took a while to break in - fresh out of the box it sounded harsh and congested. But nw after two weeks it sounds incredible. There's a 45 days no hassle return option should u be disappointed. Don't waste your time with pro units, they don't sound good enough - they will color the sound too much.
  10. Just for the record : I'm using an actively tri-amped system (if you include the subs) ever since I tried the mini class D / T amps I was hooked! Currently have a 25W SMSL SA50 on the 40-400Hz range driving Peavey FH1 bass horns with K33E inside; above 400Hz is a fully modded Trends TA10.1 tripath amp (8W) driving the mid and tweeters; the clarity, imaging, detail, and impact are out of this world - in active bi-amplification each amp operates within its limits at all times (at least with 104dB speakers in a home-audio context) and my ears give up way before the sounds starts to distort or get harsh; only the active subs have more traditional class AB amps. My preamp and amps stay on 24/7/365 and stay cold and don't consume much electricity; I've stopped worrying about having an amplifier suddenly failing (and destroying a driver while doing so), and the sound is better than I ever had with any "high end" class AB or class A amplifiers I've owned. As active crossover I'm using the K231 from Sublime Acoustic, which I highly recommend if you can live without digital delay and DSP; the sound is fantastic and it's as silent as a tomb. It takes a couple weeks of burn-in (quite harsh and fuzzy fresh out of the box) but after that it's a fantastic crossover at ANY price.
  11. Typically two things happen during break-in: there's a mechanical break-in of the diaphragms, typically the sound will be more relaxed, less "constrained" and less stiff; then there's an electrical break-in of the capacitors in the crossover, which may take longer with some capacitors, depending what they are made of. Typically smoother top end and wider, more opened / detailed sound when everything has settled down. I had once to change the diaphragm in one of my Beyma tweeters; the freshly fixed tweeter sounded harsh and louder than the "old" tweeter for a couple of days, displacing the stereo image to one side; then after settling in all became balanced again and the stereo image came back to the center. When I got my brand new A55G drivers they sounded nasal and not very defined at first and it took a few days before I started to gain real improvement compared to the old K55V. Break-in is a very real thing.
  12. You do NOT want to raise the LS bass bins from the floor using 3 or 4 footers; the gap created between bass horn and floor will reduce bass output - something you do NOT want with LaScalas. If you really need to decouple them from the floor, use either just a large layer of rubber-like material (like what you'd put under a washing machine) or better, that combined with a slab of granite or other very dense material in a "sandwiched" configuration. The important being that there's NO GAP between floor and enclosure.
  13. I've been using those A55Gs for three years mated with some EV SM120 mid horns and Beyma CP25 tweeters. I previously had some K55V on the same setup for many years. The A55G sound definitely MUCH better to my ears; cleaner, smoother, and more organic. With an ALK Universal crossover (now using only the high-pass section, the 400Hz crossover being now active) I'm able to raise the midrange output relative to the Beyma tweeter and it still sounds pure and smooth; doing that with my old K55V would have sounded honky and ill-defined. (I tried). The combination of smooth EV horns and smooth A55G drivers make the midrange miles ahead of the "typical Klipsch sound" which many find harsh and colored - even if it is musical; the EV / A55G combination makes the midrange more alike to higher end horn speakers. Having used the K55V for years I can tell a lot of that perceived amelioration comes from the improved driver. I haven't tried the A55G on the Klipsch K400 horn which is, in my view, flawed - but I suspect the effect of the improved driver is still very much hearable.
  14. I say (I might lose some friends here for saying that) that the K400 / K401 horn sucks; way too beamy and honky. I've had some joy from a pair of EV SM120 horns, John Allen / Bob Crites A55G drivers, and Beyma CP25 tweeters.
  15. I'm using EV SM120A mid horns with A55G drivers with Beyma CP25 tweeters, passive crossover at 6KHz, and active 24dB at 400Hz to a pair of Peavey FH1 bass horns. The EV SM120 horns are WONDERFUL with the A55G drivers: wide open and smooth. And you may be able to score them for cheap!
  16. What you want is the A55G driver sold by Bob Crites; improves smoothness and cleanliness in the all important midrange; after using K55V for about 20 years I couldn't believe the improvement the A55G offered. They need a couple days break-in to sound their best but then, what a feast! Replace the driver-to-horn gaskets while you're at it.
  17. I would suggest a Peavey FH1 instead; it is easy to find, costs peanuts, extends to close to 1KHz (don't know if it's advisable tho, but a 500Hz crossover is more than fine) and the height would be perfect with a K402 on top.
  18. I think I’ve made up my mind: I will buy the Kappa 15C as soon as possible. I’ve had time to search for more posts regarding that driver and it seems to me everything I need. Plus in a home audio context with high pass filter and low power amps there’s no worries to have regarding the X-max.
  19. How would you describe that improvement? Does the upper bass sound more defined and articulate, or is it just a matter of better matching the midrange output level near crossover frequency (if it's ever possible to dissociate both things)?
  20. I do have good K33 (bought new about 20 years ago but never abused); however, I don't use (and don't want to use) an EQ anywhere in the system (analogue crossover); so my question is would the 15C bring more DEFINITION and neutrality; seems to me that a flatter response (which is what a 5dB raise on top of the passband does by reducing the difference between the bump at 160Hz and the upper range) could be good? Isn't the 15C a more "articulate" driver?
  21. Well, I'm using a 25watts class D amp on the 40Hz-400Hz range; below 40Hz is filtered at 24dB/octave; even when pushing the volume with bass heavy music, I doubt I'd ever meet the 15C x-max (I may be wrong); I live in a normal apartment, not a airplane hangar
  22. I've read great things about Vicoustic Cinema Round Premium; they look great and are not outrageously expensive. I was about to buy room treatments but then the purchase of a new, huge fabric and foam sofa to replace the leather-and-chrome vintage design sofa solved the issue I had in the midrange (I kid you not!) If I ever buy something it will be those vicoustic panels BASOTECT foam is GREAT too and available in white but I heard it's quite fragile (its the same foam as the "magic erasers" your wife uses to remove nasty stains); check out eBay there is a lot of different stuff good luck! (whatever you do, do not put TOO MUCH absorption; reading a lot on the subject is important)
  23. I know there are many threads about that woofer already but none that answers completely my question: Currently using K33E in peavey FH1 bass horns, in an ACTIVE bi-amp configuration. Crossover is 400Hz 24dB. Would you guys consider it's worth the swap to Kappa 15C knowing I'm in an active set-up and can modulate the low pass to match the midrange horn much better than if I had a passive network? Is there, besides the 5dB lift in the 200 to 500Hz range, a QUALITY to the mid bass (more punch? more definition?) that makes the Kappa 15C the better woofer, even tho I don't need to go up to 500Hz and have an active crossover? I kinda feel the answer will be positive but I'd like to not waste time and money (even tho they are cheap) if the improvement is tiny.
  24. Nope. The mounting holes in the horn were used to mount a frame that makes the horn more rigid and holds the tweeter hanging LOWER. As far as I know, the tweeter was NEVER mounted on the horn itself.
  25. Hahaha yes, the high-tech insulators ^^ I had to raise the high pass horns due to a change in sofa (I kid you not) so that my ears would still be in the right eight. so I bought hockey pucks. Works wonders - but if you look closely you will see there IS an audiophile-approved, specially made isolator between the hockey pucks and the top bin 😉 About the SM120: they are WONDERFUL. Wide open and smooooooth, and even in semi near-field (I sit about 8 feet from my speakers!) they throw a wide and enveloping soundstage, and no shout, no honk. With the John Allen A55G it's fantastic.
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