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Rolox

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Everything posted by Rolox

  1. Well, we just had to pay (on top of our usual monthly payments) an add-on bill of 1250 euro. Half our vacation budget so, we couldn't travel in the end. I have a pretty shitty job (well, I've seen much worse, but I'm still in the "lower income" part of the population) and everything has become much more expensive. Food, electricity, gas... I'm not complaining (yet), we are a double-income-no-kids house, it could be worse, but still.
  2. I use exclusively class D amps. On the > 500Hz range I use a fully modded Trends TA10.1 amp (TA2024 chip) with a low noise, high current linear PSU. On the 60 to 500Hz range I use a 25USD (you read that right) AliExpress amp with TPA3255 chip and an external SMPS PSU. only the subs use class AB amps - that's what they came with. I don't find the Trends amp to be aggressive, not at all in fact - and the upgraded linear PSU really raised the sound, making the treble much more natural, less "spitty". Every system has to compromise somewhere; my compromise is to keep the system completely foolproof and having the least electricity consumption possible. It stays on 24/7, barely draws any current, stays cold, and if someone turns an amp oFF or ON there are no dangerous transients in the drivers; I don't need to use a capacitor to protect them. Other people in the house use the system; all you need to do is select your desired source and press "play". The sound is clean, wide open, precise, and transparent - every upstream change (including vibration footers, cables, and of course change of DAC or preamplifier) is heard BIG TIME. The personality of every element comes through with ease. Differences in recordings as well, obviously. The amps are also dead silent which is a huge bonus with 105dB speakers. I've recently swapped the Trends amp for a pure class A amp, it sounded different, sure, a tiny bit warmer, but not enough to have me reconsider. Of course they could be considered somewhat "sterile" compared to other amps but in my system, I feel it's the source and the preamp who give the most personality / signature to the sound, and I rely on them to give me the musicality I'm after. The amps are merely passing up the sound to the speakers. My budget is rather low, I used to own plenty of vintage or second hand class AB or class A solid state, but I grew tired of the recurrent reliability issues, and I did have a big class AB amp killing my woofers once. Now don't get me wrong, if I had unlimited budget, and if I was the only one using the system, I would probably consider class A or tubes (or both) but in the current state of affairs (and having just paid a HUGE electricity bill, a bill that would have been probably double if I was using conventional amps) those little class D marvels are a fine "compromise" and I prefer to focus on the source (my next upgrade will most likely be a new DAC) and accessories. YMMV, as always.
  3. But that's a completely different issue. it's the eternal debate of digital vs analogue. I own an analogue active crossover because I think it just sounds better and I just don't currently need all the bells and whistles of a DSP based crossover; most people nowadays would just jump at a DSP based solution, often the cheapest ones, like miniDSP, thinking that "it's digital so it doesn't degrade the signal" which is just plain false.
  4. Yet with a properly set-up hifi system, you don't need them. Only with some genuinely bad recordings can they help, but how many of those recordings do we actually own?
  5. I haven't once needed a balance control or tone controls... YMMV, I suppose!
  6. I see one of your networks has a modern film capacitor, the other one an old oil capacitor. Ideally you'd want to have the same on both channels.
  7. Nope, I haven't; I suspect Marchand units to be very good, no idea if they would be better than the K231 tho. The Marchand would probably be easier to tweak/upgrade as there's more space inside. Stock, I doubt a Marchand would sound better (but I cannot comment, it's just that the K231 is so good, it's hard to imagine "better"). I wouldn't stress too much about the RCA connectors; sure those things matter but what matters more is the circuit and the way the whole thing is put together. as for the TRS jacks, well you can always re-terminate your cables instead of using adapters. I only use the unbalanced RCA ins/outs.
  8. I am not mocking the McIntosh brand. I'm just saying, because it costs so much money and is so easy to recognize even by people outside the hobby, it is ALSO one of the brands that gets purchased by people who just want to impress the guests. And also by those who will never ever purchase something that's not made in the USA. I never said it was everyone's case. I never said it was a lousy brand. Just like I love Rolex watches even tho they are THE status symbol watch purchased by non-watch people when they want to show off, because everyone recognizes a Rolex on your wrist from 20 feet distance, which is not the case with Patek Philippe for example. Doesn't make Rolex a bad brand.
  9. Yeah, modern amplifiers sound the same, and DACs, and CD transports ("it's just 1s and 0s!!!") etc etc. I wonder why we bother buying nice stuff, when we could just go to the electronic store at the corner of the street and buy a 150$ entry level amp with a DAC inside and be done with it. It measures the same, right? Oh and McIntosh... typical "status symbol, pride of ownership, made in the USA" brand. Not saying it's bad stuff, but when someone has a lot of money and wants a crazy "sound system" to impress guests, that's one of the recurrent brands. Very expensive and very easy to recognize even by non-audiophile people. Just like Rolex is the go-to luxury watch brand for status symbol.
  10. Exactly. I do not MEAN to be a jerk or to diminish anybody. But it is a fact, critical listening is a skill and is something one learns and practices. That being said, just enjoying one's system as it is and just enjoying the tunes without caring is absolutely fine, as long as you don't make fun of those who need to go further. We all have different expectations / needs / etc. Keeping an open mind is mandatory.
  11. Seriously, it is so annoying. I'm glad I'm not the only "believer" (I hate that word) on this forum! Cheers mate.
  12. Do not feel sorry for your friend. You may think he's a fool, which is sad, because he is not. Using an AVR as a two channel preamp in what is meant to be a quality two channels stereo system is like putting an old Chevy motor in a Ferrari. It sucks, and it makes no sense. Yes, a discrete 2 channels preamp DOES sound better. If you cannot hear the difference, fine, but then that's you. Not your friend being an idiot. Speaker cables in my system make a HUGE difference. But, MIT isn't a very good brand (sorry). A high price isn't a guarantee for better sound. Yes, power cords (just like any cable) need a few days to break in. Why? You may dismiss it as foolishry, again, and decide to mock it and make fun of your friend, or you can google the various explanations. Has to do with the dielectric "charging" or something like that. I have experienced it with all my cables. The more complex the cable, the more obvious. I have found that silver plated, teflon dielectric wires take more time than basic copper wire, and you can hear it much more easily. Go ahead, mock me, make a fool of me, I won't change my mind about it. Brand new cables can sound harsh and congested, while a broken in cable will sound MUCH smoother and open. Again, very easy to hear, if you are a serious listener with a good revealing system. Very easy to verify, as well: put a well used cable on one channel, and a brand new identical cable on the other, I guarantee you will have a hard time getting an even, coherent, well centered stereo image. If you hear what a coherent stereo image is, of course. Cable directionality? Yes, it has to do initially with the ground end. But then, as you use your brand new cable, it breaks in in THAT position, and using it reverse kinda screws the break in, and it has to be done all over again (not a big deal, and no it won't destroy the cable, obviously, but the cable will not sound at its best for a while. Again, some cables can be more sensitive to this, depending on the geometry and materials used. That's what your friend was scared about. Ask him. Again, if for you cables don't make a difference, you will dismiss this as foolish. Your loss, if you ask me, not your friend being an idiot). I have an actively tri-amped system, home made, kind of LaScala on steroids with 2inch mid drivers and a larger bass horn, with two active subs for the lows. That's three times more cables than your usual system. I can tell you, being active let's you hear more things, and the more cables you have, the more they impact the sound. I didn't spend fortunes, but I would never ever swap my cables for something else. I'm getting a little tired of the constant mockery about people using "fancy" wires or high-end electronics. We aren't idiots. We don't have crazy amounts of money to waste - I certainly don't! Has it ever occurred to you those "fools" might just have better ears? or just listen to their system with more attention to little details? You might just be enjoying the music and that's fine, probably even something one could envy, but does that make all the MANY audiophiles who find differences in the "small" details FOOLS? Have you ever tried to research WHAT could possibly cause those perceived differences under a different bias than "it's all just bullshit"? Because if you do, you might find interesting information, and you might see things differently.
  13. There is something wrong in the gain structure of your system, I think. Are you sing your Freya + in active mode? Even in active mode, it's not a high gain preamp, if your source is on the low side, it might feel like there is not enough "juice". It's not about the amp's power output, it's about how much voltage you give it at the input.
  14. You could try with a low power class D amp, like the first T-amp, a Trends TA10, or something... if it doesn't work with one of those, you won't have enough volume with the SET.
  15. - replace horn/driver gaskets with new ones - update mid driver to A55G - recap crossovers -modern film caps sometimes sound too bright - depending on taste you may wanna try old MBGO or K75-10 Russian caps (great stuff on horns!) - replace tweeters with SMAHLs - rewire with solid core 16AWG Neotech UP-OCC wire (I know I'm gonna be mocked for saying this, but for me it made quite a difference) -if you don't listen at deafening levels, you may replace woofers with Eminence Kappa 15C. Bass won't go any deeper, but will be more articulate, and the transition to the midrange will be smoother. Xmax on those is very limited, so theoretically they won't handle as much power down low - in the real world, in a domestic setting you should be fine. - damping the back chamber (the "dog house") can be done - slightly. A single sheet of foam on one of the horizontal panel - top or bottom - but not more. If you over damp , you'll lose a great deal of the output. Believe me, I've tried. Hope this helps
  16. It's an old thread but I thought I would chime in: I'm using the K231 since two years in my main system and it's the best analogue crossover I ever owned. Flawless operation, fantastic sound, completely devoid of any noise or distortion. The unit sounds bright when brand new, it needs a good two weeks of operation before you get to hear what it's capable of. Then it's absolutely marvelous. There isn't a single active crossover from the pro world that can come close. I've owned a bunch and even used to mod them for better sound. One of the reviews on their website is mine (François).
  17. That's very sad to hear. Growing old(er) is a *****... My thoughts to Gil and I wish him as much recovery as possible. And let's hope he will have the possibility, in that nursing home, to listen to some music.
  18. I rewired my speakers (between the passive 6KHz crossover and the mids and tweeter drivers) with Neotech UP-OCC solid core, monocrystal copper. If you have to laugh, laugh, but that wire is a big upgrade. I realize there's a tendency on this forum to mock people who buy audiophile cable, and that is a pity (not talking about you here, just in general). Of course Klipsch speakers will work with lamp cord. They will work with just about any wire you will throw at them. But the context in which those heritage speakers are used may vary greatly. A system with 1970s LaScala and a vintage receiver isn't the same context as a pair of LaScala AL5 used with, say, a high end SET amplifier or a class A Nelson Pass design. They have one thing in common, they are both super cool and sound superb to their respective owners. But that's about where the comparison stops. in the first system, it may seem to make little sense to upgrade the cables. In the second one, it would make little sense NOT to use something, at least, made for audio - and if the user wants to spend a fortune on it, so be it. And then there's everyone in-between those two situations. I'm a sucker for audio cable. I've tried many, at various prices. I'm poor, so it never costs as much as a small bike. The cable I use throughout my system now is made in China, is multiple separated solid core wires, silver plated, teflon insulated. They make interconnects out of it, speaker cable, power cables. I have an actively bi-amped system and there's a massive amount of wires, all by the same maker. I'v tried many brands (or brandless) before and this is the very best I've owned so far. All in all I must have around 500USD invested in the current cable loom. It may sound like a lot, but it's actually a very small amount for such fantastic wire. But yeah if it was made by Nordost in the USA they would charge you a fortune for it. I'm not gonna go into a fight with anyone here, but for me cables are just another element of the system. They definitely add a color; they can be "zingy", they can be bright, they can be dull. They can be transparent or they can be thick and dark. The wire I use now is very transparent, a tiny tiny bit bright, and lets the qualities of the recordings and of the electronics shine through. What I'm trying to saying is, you can't try a "fancy" cable just once, not hear a difference, and then decide cables are a rip-off. And, worse, you can't make fun of something you haven't experienced yourself. Context is everything. Live and let live. It's a free world, and never anyone was FORCED to spend money on "fancy" cable. But if you wanna do it, do it.
  19. Ahahahaha you people really need to get out more. and use your ears. it's not that hard. Break-in: it's a fact. Put a brand new midrange driver diaphragm only on one channel, keeping the other driver old, and your stereo image will be skewed to a side for a few days, because the brand new diaphragm will be harsher. Then it will come back to normal. Same goes for the capacitors in your crossovers. Cables and power cables: you really can't tell until you haven't tried. No need to spend fortunes. Separates: oh come on now. While they don't ALWAYS offer better sound, they very often do, because there is less compromises being made specially at the lower end of the market. Using separates is usually a good idea. I could go on forever. You know, things have changed since the apparition of the "BS" button. Even at Klipsch...
  20. This, exactly. You were able to explain it better than I ever could! Stacking speakers makes no sense. Using more than one pair of speakers for stereo makes no sense and is detrimental.
  21. Amir? As far as I'm concerned, HE is bullshit. Okay so his measurements are good. The conclusions he draws from them are just plain wrong. Like, all DACs that measure close sound the same? hahaha that's the most idiotic "rule" he's been trying to spread amongst his disciples.So far from the truth it makes you wonder if all those guys ever actually listen to music and to their system, or if they just look at oscilloscopes all day.
  22. So the guy has an inaccurate view on Klipsch products... so what? maybe it shows Klipsch as a brand doesn't do enough efforts to be seen and acknowledged by the audiophile world nowadays? There is an awful lot of people in the audio world who probably have the exact same opinion of the Klipsch brand. Who is to blame, then? When you google "Klipsch", what are the marchand pages that show the most? I'd bet it's the ones selling the cheap entry level China-made products. In fact in Europe if you search for Klipsch in the local ads, 99% of the times you only find those products, even second hand. I have absolutely nothing wrong to say about Paul McGowan, as a matter of fact I frequently watch his videos. I find the McGowan bashing vastly underserved. As for the late Paul W. Klipsch, as much as I respect the man, he did have a somewhat outdated views on certain matters (time alignement, for example). Things evolve, speaker design and audio electronics design as well. We now care about things that would have been considered useless and "bullshit" three decades ago. I do love Klipsch Heritage speakers, but I'm above all an audiophile. I do not have "loyalty" to any brand in particular. And I think it's quite amusing that, besides all the brand loyalty and devotion to the late founder, Klipsch is probably the most modded / upgraded speaker brand in the universe! Having our own "technical modifications" segment here on the Klipsch forum says a lot. And it's perfectly fine, but it shows one thing: nothing is perfect, no brand is flawless, and Klipsch certainly isn't.
  23. While I have not compared those two, it's easy to tell the forte will be much easier to drive (those two cerametallic woofers are famous to need some power, and quoted sensitivity numbers are a bit optimistic on the RF range of products) so if you're planning on using some lower power amps at some point the Forte are the better choice. Also, the "issue" with the RF7 is the two way design, putting the crossover frequency right where the ear is most sensitive, and forcing the woofers to reproduce a large part of the midrange - which can be seen as a compromise. On the other hand, a pair of RF7 with the right amp probably gives even more scale and SPL than a pair of Forte - the latter would have the edge on tonality and midrange informations. Best would be to listen to both and decide what you like most.
  24. Those are absurd claims, sorry. It's easy to see, for anyone who knows a thing or two about speaker design (especially with the Cornwall IV) WHY the version IV is better. You see it immediately even before listening to it. Then you listen to it, and you hear exactly what is to be expected from the upgrades. I'm sorry but that tiny *** midrange horn of the previous version is just a bad compromise. It's never been designed for the Cornwall, they used the Heresy horn for years (and even in the Heresy, that horn wasn't so good to start with). It's too small and when it comes to horns, size matters A LOT. It's also an outdated exponential design. With the new midrange horn, and new driver, Klipsch finally offers the Cornwall a quality design in the most important part of the frequency range. Add to that a better crossover from our friend Roy Delgado and his team, and yes, it's a much better design altogether, and it sounds better as a result, as it should.
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