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Everything posted by Rolox

  1. ...and this is now (today I added a layer of pucks under, making it "two pucks high").
  2. It's not the first time I'm trying this, but every time I'm gobsmacked by the difference (both good and bad) it makes to the sound. I own home-made speakers that are very similar to Lascala on steroids: peavey FH1 bass horns with Kappa 15C woofers, A55G midranges on SM120 horn lenses, Beyma CP25 tweeters. The "top bins" are separated from the bass bin by 9 hockey pucks (3x3) stacked. That raises the mids and highs at ear level. Well, if I take 3 hockey pucks from each side and put them UNDER each bass horn (thus keeping mids and treble at the exact same position in space), raising the bass horns 1inch (hockey puck height, more less) off the floor, the sound takes on a COMPLETELY different flavor: the lower mids / upper bass suddenly BLOOM and fill the room in a very different manner; on some tracks it's very nice, and some other it's quite overpowering. I'm trying to explain such a variation... 1) bass horn "decoupled" from the floor has a very different output due to the specificities of bass horn loading? 2) bass horn enclosure resonates differently when suspended on 3 footers rather than directly on the floor? 3) phase relationship between midrange and bass is now changed - due to the (tiny) difference in path length between both I'm not sure yet if I will keep the bass horns off the floor but it sure sounds interesting.
  3. Okay so my Kappa 15C arrived, and they've been in the FH1 bins for a few days now. First of all, let me tell you: everything that has been said about that woofer is true. They are supercharged! Midbass punch, speed, impact, and much better low mids. K33 sound like softened cardboard in comparison. In my system, I use an active crossover; with the K33E I was using 400Hz/24dB transition to the EV SM120 midrange horns. Now I've settled to 500Hz, 12dB; the EV horn is happier, transition is smoother, and overall response much flatter! Positive side effect of this, I can now use extreme toe-in, crossing the speakers to a point in front of my head, and enjoy fantastic depth and 3D imaging! With my previous woofers / settings, it was way too bloated and muddy... so another unexpected benefit of the woofer swap. I'm a very happy camper! ^^
  4. YESSS I've finally (!) ordered a pair of Kappa 15C last night 🙂 If everything goes right, they should be here by 48 hours. I can't wait to hear the improvement! Something tells me I'm in for a treat!
  5. for crossover I really like Jantzen Crosscaps, they are good and not expensive.
  6. Your friend is just listening so stupidly loud that no entry-level receiver is able to provide enough power for it. There's no cure for that; actually listening with only 2 channels might give the amp a tiny bit more headroom. In any case, the RB41 has a 4inch "woofer". Cannot expect miracles. Doesn't matter if there's a "Klipsch" brand on the speakers, they are still small bookshelves unable to provide the kind of SPL your friend seems to ask for. Small speakers driven by a clipping amplifier >> recipe for disaster. I can smell burned voice coils coming next. Instead of a 5 small speakers package, your friend would be happier with a stereo pair of bigger, second hand Klipsch - anything from KG4 to LaScalas depending on budget. Anything with decent woofer size and REAL sensitivity ratings, which go loud with little power, is what you need if you really like to crank it up.
  7. If you want the easy approach, buy an ANALOGUE active crossover an a couple of small class D amps you could get the Sublime Acoustic K231 active crossover, with a few x-over cards - for example, 500Hz and 5KHz - 24 and 12dB each, so you can try both Big SS amp on the bass, and the small class D on the mid and treble You might find out that is all you need!
  8. Hmm hmmm... well, I guess for the price there's not much to lose. Let us know how they sound. I'm curious to know if such a cheap driver can sound decent, to be honest. But maybe you'll have a pleasant surprise?...
  9. Then find a pair of atlas / K55V in good condition and go from there?.. they are not bad drivers, used within their limitations
  10. What you need is John Allen A55G driver. It is, in essence, a K55V but with much less distortion and a smoother response. I can attest of the superior sound quality versus the Atlas driver. I use mine between 400 and 6K Hz and they are smoooooooooth. Last time I checked, Bob Crites / BEC speakers was selling them, that's where I bought mine.
  11. Just go for it! You can always upgrade the amp later on. They WILL sound much better with a proper hi-fi amp. Audissey? I would never use that kind of processing. For AV maybe, not for music!
  12. Asking for a friend who is tempted by a purchase - but comparing both models in Europe is nearly impossible Acoustically, do the Cornwall need a bigger room? (I would consider their space requirements to be about the same) anyone heard them side by side? Big difference? system is stereo, music only, amplifier is a big Musical Fidelity
  13. What could be interesting to experiment is to use an active crossover and a small class D amp - the active crossover in parallel with the main amp and only filtering the output for the add-on tweeters... that way you could continuously play with cutoff frequency and level - now to know if it would sound good? would probably be very different from the single cap, first order filtering - better or worse I don't know.
  14. Speakers are passive elements - they don't "thump" except if asked to do so. so I would think either the recording or something in the chain - may even be something in the electricity network.
  15. I have yet to encounter a vintage loudspeaker with electrolytic caps that were worth keeping. Seems to be the exception rather than the rule. As for vintage Klipsch oil caps, some like their sound - but high end they are not...
  16. Oh well, those LaScalas were extremely ugly and I got them for next to nothing. It was a regular pair (non industrial) that had been cut in two by the previous owner to become some "split industrial" - because he was using them as PA speakers. There were metal handles that would vibrate at high level, and two holes on each side of the tweeters with some cheap piezo tweeters that you could toggle ON with some switch. Woofers were not original (I should have kept those somewhere, they were of the Tesla brand and were GORGEOUS). But finding LaScala for cheap in Europe is already a miracle. Every unused part has been separately sold including the crossovers. Right now using Peavey FH1 bass horns and still using the K33 but I want to replace them with Kappa 15C because I use subs and I'd rather have a bit more midrange definition.
  17. I will soon put my K33E woofers for sale so I decided I would put them here first They were bought new about 10 years ago and Never abused (home listening) they are perfect Location is Brussels, Belgium if interested, pm me!
  18. I always wonder why people hesitate so much to renew capacitors. Difference between old, worn out caps and new ones is usually night and day, plus you can buy much improved quality capacitors nowadays. In electronics, it's the same - but doing it at home requires a bit more knowledge. still, an old amp or preamp with tired capacitors doesn't sound as good as it should, far from it - and is facing reliability issues sooner or later!
  19. While I haven't compared them myself, it seems logical that the IV would be the one to buy: look at that midrange horn and driver! That is where the music lives!!!
  20. Whatever you use as subs, you're gonna need an active crossover to remove the strain from the main amps / speakers. You will gain enormously in clarity, dynamics, and max SPL without distortion. If you want the best sound quality for a still reasonable outlet, check Sublime Acoustic K231. It's fantastic.
  21. If it were me, I would sell the Altecs, buy some K402 horns + appropriate drivers, put them on top of the KHorns bass bins, along with your choice of active crossover, and enjoy far better sound than anything else possible. oh yes you'll need two amps but I suppose you already have them.
  22. I would consider the crossover network to be one of the most important things in a loudspeaker so, if your crossover sucks, there isn't a single chance the rest will sing. Start from there, then eventually upgrade your drivers. A55G is great, really worth the money IMHO.
  23. Hi all, I wonder if anybody has modeled or tried the Faital Pro 15PR400 in a LaScala / Belle / FH1 type bass horn, and how it compares to K33 and to Eminence Kappa 15C?
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