M.Att
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Posts posted by M.Att
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Weekend Bump!
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On 6/12/2023 at 2:29 PM, Amphicar said:
Still for sale?
Hi Amphicar, sorry, I didn't get a notice in my personal email, yes. I am still interested in parting ways with these speakers.
I'm also willing to part with a pair of Tekton bookshelf speakers too. I need to make room for some other speakers.
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I'm going to keep nudging this to the top until one of you fine folks relieve me of these fine pieces of Klipsch Professional gear. My wife is motivating me to move these more quickly than I am ...
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Weekend Bump. These are still looking for a good home!
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On 3/22/2023 at 5:18 PM, dieter17 said:
Look to be in really good shape. Price is very reasonable too. Love my pair.
Thanks, Dieter, they are in good shape and sound great. If they don't sell I'd consider parting them, but that seems like a shame.
I took a few moments today to grab the DATS info from each of them. I connected the DATS leads to the speaker cables not directly to the speakers, which might explain some of the extra wiggly lines. (If anyone wants to chime in on how speaker wires could affect the impedance I'm all ears)
Each speaker has roughly the same shaped curves, albeit with different overall impedance peaks.
Bumping for the weekend!
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8 hours ago, OO1 said:
These are the KP-2500-C , real Pro speakers that can rock your house , 250wpc rating , very similar to the KP-250 , glwys
Thanks, they do rock, although I can't imagine pumping that many watts into them. We used them for a bit in our 2.1 AV setup and the speakers were amazing.
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Bumping this up, they are still for sale.
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Hi Everyone,
Are you in Maryland and looking for some new speakers? If so, I'm offering up this set of KP-2500s to make room for a DIY I want to build. I am more than happy to audition them and have a DATSv3 handy for a more technical look at each speaker. Now for the good stuff!
I have one set of good condition KP-2500s including Crites diaphragms and originals, collapsible stands, and two sets of Seismic Audio 12 gauge wires (10' and 30') and looking for $550 for the whole set. I purchased them in April 2022; they were connected to our A/V Marantz NR1200 and most recently through my laptop and a Topping PA-5. Great speakers all around.
Thanks for looking and feel free to DM me if you have questions or you're around and interested. I'd be willing to drive a 50 or so miles from Columbia MD.
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On 6/8/2022 at 6:58 PM, Dave A said:
Crites sells an autoformer with 12 taps in 1db increments that will cover your Klipsch needs.
Hi Dave,
Thanks, that's a neat product. It still doesn't fix the WAF though, carpeted speakers don't go with her decor. 🙂
For a technical question: What would be the difference electrically between the autoformer and a LPad using non-inductive resistors? Is that difference worth the cost difference?
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I got a chance to look at the KP2500 XO recently and the transformer does NOT have extra taps, so my only real option is a L-Pad. Now that said, I hooked them up to my Marantz NR1200 and with the subwoofers (LFE @ 80hz) they are superb for movies, TV, and pretty darn good for music too.
However, they completely fail the WAF/CAF and I might be posting them on the Garage Sale area. I'll include the 10' and 35' cables and stands too. Harumph.
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4 hours ago, KLL said:
Thanks for your response. the additional picture helps since I've never done any electronics so this is a little challenging. It looks like you're still progressing please keep us informed how it sounds, these KG4 are a bit bright at volumes, and I also would like to tame them a bit
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Hi KLL,
I'm all done, sold them to my brother a few months back to one of my brothers. I got a chance to hear them again a few weeks ago though, I really liked the way they came out, detailed but not shrill / shouting. The bass was really revealed by taming the tweeter too, I had them placed about 2' from the walls and I didn't think a subwoofer was necessary. The one thing I wish I had done was measure the final frequency response, but my brother auditioned them, was enamored, and left that same day.
The biggest fix in taming the horn was the addition of the LPad ( Series + Parallel Resistor {R4 & R5 in the schematic} ) That's the only change I made in the tweeter's circuit that affected the volume of the driver.
If you want a relatively low-cost introductory lesson check out the C-Note DIY kit. They're great sounding little speakers and you get to learn a bit about speaker building in the process. Feel free to DM me if you have any questions. I've not built many, but I'll gladly share my experiences.
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On 6/2/2022 at 3:59 PM, KLL said:
M.Att nice crossovers how do I get a set of those. I just found a pair at a garage sale $100 I couldn't refuse, But I'm thinking update crossovers. I also have some Forte I with alk crossovers love them
Hi KLL, Those are my creation, but it only took about an hour to solder/wire up. The schematic is reflected in the picture. I got all the parts from Parts-Express minus the plywood, screw-down bus, and yellow 8.2uf cap (Amazon, free same-day shipping was the only reason). It wasn't the cheapest; I spent more on caps since I was using inductors from my stash.
Given the quantity and size of parts I found plywood to be easier than the perforated boards. (I did make a double-height perf. board XO for my Classix IIs, but wouldn't recommend that here)
Here's a picture of the new XO in the box.
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On 11/1/2020 at 6:49 PM, mboxler said:
Thanks! Today I ran the same test on the other K-52-H, and got more symmetric plot. I'll assume all is okay.
Mike
Hi Mike,
I had a similar plot w/ K-80s and it corrected when I replaced the ferrofluid. Your's seems to have autocorrect turned on though.
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Is Laurie the same person that was selling a large cache of Klipsch speakers last May?
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I just redid a pair of KG4s. Here's what I came up with, it's slightly different than stock. The biggest difference is that the tweeter is now tame with the addition of an LPad. On the woofers I added a resistor to bring down the impedance, a notch filter for the area just before the XOver point, a Zobel network, and a final inductor to roll off the lower woofer a bit sooner. I should have used a larger inductor but was just grabbing parts out of my spare parts bin.
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1 hour ago, jjptkd said:
Good info from a thread on page 2 of this thread:
Schematic:
Great, I follow that, the 250/2500 is 7db hotter then the HII, and even then that's possibly above the woofer.
An L-Pad is easier for a test and/or permanent solution than messing with the transformer. In the other speakers I've built, DIY and ones of my own, I've tried to pull the upper registers down below the woofer's sensitivity in order to balance everything out and create a non-fatiguing listening experience. Wouldn't that imply that I'd need to really consider a 10 - 13db drop on both the tweeter and squawker? (I realize this might be heretical 🙂 )
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2 hours ago, jjptkd said:
Looking over the schematics I'd guess the mid should be dialed back at least 3db from where its at now for home use, that would match a Type B crossover setting similar to Claudes Super Heresy.
Yes, I could do that, however, I have to ask, which thread has the schematics and details on it? I've never personally done anything with a transformer.
Does anyone have the FRD/ZMA files for these 3 drivers? I'd love to poke around at them.
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Just now, nickyboy6100 said:
Be careful getting into the Klipsch professional line. They’re kinda addictive and seem to get about the size of refrigerators when it’s all said and done. 🤣
I did see, while browsing USAudiomart, some fantastical horns with 4x15"(?) woofers below them. I would have to hope the enclosure was large enough for a sleeping bag if they showed up here.
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6 minutes ago, billybob said:
Really think that you have some nice ones... enjoy!
Thanks!
Thanks! I do too.
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4 hours ago, RandyH said:
if these speakers are only 17 years old , dont touch them , forget LPADS , since they will add noise to the network , do not mess with the crossover , it's not your run of the mill XO
-for Attenuation , the open ports make the speaker louder while affecting the bass output , closing the ports off enhances the bass right away and attenuates the speaker .
- the original Klipsch Tweeter diaphragms are most likely the Poly diaphragms (Ferrofluid ) ,
Hi Randy,
Honestly, as compared to the rest of the signal path I don't think the LPads will add noticeable noise. My amp is cheap, the "DAC" is my laptop, and as far as resistors are concerned a wire-wound resistor is more than adequate when it comes to potentially adding noise to the signal. I can pick up an 8 and 16 ohm resistor and quickly fabricate a 6db LPad with some speaker wire and compare the two speakers.
I though about plugging the ports to see how they affect the sound. When I get some free time later this week I'll stuff something in them and see how it goes.
The K-80s I recently performed an "oil change" on had an appreciable effect on the impedance of the drivers (measured with DATSv3). I could pull them and check.
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5 hours ago, billybob said:
Yes the KG line are 2 way speakers, technically. No matter, they sound great.
Had the 4s and 1.5s...
Hi Billybob,
Sorry, I meant to say that the KP2500's I just picked up are my first 3-way speakers in a long time. I recently refurbished a pair of KG4s and really enjoyed them for the brief time they were with me.
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2 hours ago, jjptkd said:
Sometimes they get wedged into place I usually just take one of the screws and stick it into one of the metal holes in grill and use the threads as a catch to pull on the grill try multiple places along the edge and corners.
If you change taps (if possible on those crossovers) you'll have to change the capacitor values to correspond with the changes might be a lot simpler and cheaper to just use L-pads or else consider changing to a completely different crossover design.
Perfect, I grabbed a pair of forceps and slowly wiggled it out.
This, from another thread, is the Xover that's in them:
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On 4/21/2022 at 9:40 AM, Outrider 6 said:
If you’re interested in 2500 squawker mods, look here:
Excellent piece. I'd considered dynamat on the horns too. Before I dig into the enclosure I do have three questions for everyone.
These are the first speakers I've had with metal screwed in grills, I removed the screws and the grills stayed in place. I don't want to mar them (they are pristine even after ~17 years!), so how do I safely remove them?
Question 2: Does the autotransformer have different taps to change the attenuation? That would be my preferred route before splicing in a couple LPads.
3: Has anyone measured the effects of including ~7.5" port tubes to the output? 3A: OK, that's really 4, measured the difference between the Crite's diaphragm and the stock ones? (The previous owner gave me both)
Thanks!
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On 4/20/2022 at 9:48 AM, jjptkd said:
The original 250's do not have Titanium drivers and the tweeters are dialed way back as part of the protection circuitry. The mids are very forward if I were to add an L-pad it would be on the mid driver and yes it will cost a bit of sensitivity but not a whole lot. The 250's are PA speakers and design to project voices very loud and that is what they do best low bass is non existent so a sub will likely be needed if running these in 2 channel.
Thanks, a 16-ohm LPad is only a few bucks and easy enough to put inline with a wire splice, I can try that. They are so efficient I really don't mind giving up a few DB in the voice if it helps the balance.
What DAC & Amp are you using with Heritage Speakers
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
I'm also running my KP2500's with the A07 and using my laptop's 11-band EQ to tame the midrange. There is a bit of noise in the A07 if I turn it up, but when kept at low power it's a great little amp. I have a Topping PA5 which is incredibly quiet, I was using that on the KPs for a bit, but switched back to the A07. (The Topping is for my bookshelf/desktop DIY Classix 2 speakers)