greg928gts
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Posts posted by greg928gts
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I'm cleaning out a lot of stuff and getting ready to move to Tennessee
Tell us more (where you moving to?)
Hey Richard, long time. This is the year for my wife and I to complete the transition from our home building business to manufacturing. Volti can operate anywhere, since it's an online business, so we've been looking all over for the last three years. TN just had the right mix of what we were looking for. Natural beauty, conservative politics, good place to do business, the third freest state in the U.S., centrally located so Volti can be more than just an online business, low cost of living, and even if we get a little snow in Baxter, it doesn't mean I have to shovel it!
The only bad so far is the real fear I have of stumbling/tired out of my shop late one night and finding a critter that is capable of killing me curled up on the warm pavement outside my shop door.
Greg
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I'm very excited! :-D I have been waiting for the right opportunity to upgrade my stock Khorn midrange horns. I do have pro EV adapters, which I'm currently using on the K55M with large format 2" HP640 horns. From what I see, they should fit properly. Right? :-P
Do you have a picture of one of those adapters? The V-120 adapters are 'voiced', but if your adapters will mechanically attach, you should probably try them first to see how they sound. You can always get the V-120's later.
Greg
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Amazing deal! FYI, if you are going to use K-55's, you will need the adapters. Buy them now and save time and shipping!
True, I can just wrap em up and put them in the box.
Greg
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Wow! Seems I paid about that just for the Beyma tweeters!
Well don't forget that these pieces are a bit rough around the edges.
Greg
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your moving to tenn. we can all come visit now that your much closer.
That's the idea! TN has 9 bordering states and is within striking distance of a lot more audiophiles than Maine.
Greg
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8 minutes. Cool.
They're yours.
Greg
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I'm cleaning out a lot of stuff and getting ready to move to Tennessee, and I found this big box in the back of my storage room.
This is the V-Trac Demo rig that was sent all over the U.S. a few years ago. Interested parties would sign up with me to get the demo, and when your turn came around, you would receive this big box full of goodies. The top and bottom come off the sides of the box, and attached to each top and bottom is a Volti V-Trac horn. The top and bottom are the correct size to fit on top of a Khorn, and so after removing the tops of your Khorns, you would place one of the V-Trac horns on top of your Khorn bass bins, install the tweeter box on the side, wire up the crossover and you could demo this great upgrade package for two weeks. After your demo, you would pack everything back up and ship it to the next person.
Overall this program went pretty smoothly, although it did take a lot of my time to track and arrange everything. Also, the pieces got damaged in shipping (big surprise) and some people forgot to pack everything up for the next person. The last time it came back to me was maybe two years ago, and sales were so good that I really didn't want the hassle of sending it out again, so I stripped it down and packed it away. But before I made that decision, I did fix up the two mid horns, added braces, devised a new way to attach the tweeters, made new boxes for the tweeters, and just generally cleaned things up.
This sale includes the V-Trac wood box, two Fc260 wood horns with 2" throats, two 2" driver motorboards, two working Beyma CP25 tweeters mounted in boxes, and some hardware.
This sale does NOT include the mid drivers, crossovers, or wiring.
No warranty, sold as is.
$300 plus shipping. My guess on shipping is between $60 and $100 here in the U.S.
Greg
voltiaudio@gmail.com
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I was there Saturday. Some pretty awesome stuff. greg from volti was there with his alluras. Spent the most time in his room. If I could have taken one set of speakers home they would have been his. A lot of things for the rich. 30k 40k 100k systems, way out of my reach. Went last year also and went back just to hear gregs setup again. Not too far out of reach, but definitely not happening anytime soon.
Gary, were you the guy with the 'pissing the neighbors off' Klipsch shirt?
Greg
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I was there Saturday. It was fantastic! I also bought a copy of The Absolute Sounds Illustrated History of High-End Audio. With a great section from the man him self. Paul Klipsch.
It's a great book. Check out page 295.
Greg
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The components are now on ebay, although, I do have many more K77's for sale.
Greg
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those HF sections are interesting... your pricing the motor boards separately?
those three pictures are of the same speaker correct? is the other speaker in similar condition? is that a veneer piece missing on the top corner or is that wood color?
I've had several requests for motorboards over the years, so I thought I would separate them out.
Both speakers are in the same condition, and yes, that is a piece of missing edgebanding. There are several pieces of edgebanding missing. I don't think the veneer is restorable, I think it will need to be re-veneered. Unless aesthetics are not important.
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I have other K77 tweeters that I'm selling as well.
Greg
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I bought a pair of Khorns (mid 70''s I think) for the bass horns and I'm selling the tophats and the side grill frames. Everything is in poor cosmetic condition.
Three of the four bass side grill frames are in good condition, as in not broken, but the cloth is no good. Will sell as a set of four, three, or individually. I suppose the broken one could be fixed. It wouldn't be easy though. I have one that I can put with the three that is broken, but not as bad as the other one. It would be easier to fix.
On the tophats, I am willing to sell just the wood pieces, just the internals, or both. I can put on a pallet and send by truck, or pack in a box to send by Fedex. Pretty flexible on how we work it out. I'm flexible on price too. Not really sure what this is worth, so my prices are a starting point.
I have now tested all the components, and they all work. The K77 pair $70, K55 pair $120, K400 mid horns pair $150, crossovers pair $100, Mis-matched pair of K33 woofers, one is original with square magnet and the other is a Klipsch replacement woofer $100.
Tophat wood pieces that make up the cabinet (four ‘homeplate’ pieces, four side pieces, and two risers) - $250
Two horn motorboards that fit into the tophat cabinet (old cloth still on them) - $100
Four side grill frames (old cloth still attached) (one broken) - $250
All prices are negotiable, especially if buying more than one item
Prices include my time to pack for shipping as well as the cost of packing materials.
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I believe the half-octave rule has more to do with the horn's ability to accurately and adequately reproduce frequencies a half-octave above Fc, and not so much to do with protection of the driver.
I believe the main purpose of the half octave rule is to keep the crossover point high enough to keep the driver from unloading.
I have no desire however to debate this, it is just my understanding. Either way, It really doesnt matter, its a good rule to follow.
Dave
That makes sense, whether using a first order or ES, unloading can be an issue if enough power is going to the drivers. I was thinking of it more from a listening perspective, which is something I tend to focus on a little too much sometimes.
I have a pair of Bentwood horns that I bought years ago and never used. Not sure what the Fc is, but they are very big - maybe three times the size of my Fc260 horns. I'm pretty sure Andrew had the 2482 in mind with those horns. I was able to get the BMS 4592's to test better in the 300Hz - 400Hz range than with my Fc260 horns. I could get the FR curve to react with larger caps, which is something that doesn't happen with the Fc260's. This is what leads me to believe I was experiencing the limit with the horn and not the driver at around 400Hz.
No debate, just talkin.
Greg
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I didn't extend the sides for aesthetic reasons. The sides end where the grills are normally located. They still need corners.
I think installing tops and bottoms permanently to the bass cabinets is a good idea, but it does make them bigger and heavier.
I was just looking through my 'FL' Khorns restoration webpage and thinking how LONG ago that seems.
Greg
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I believe the half-octave rule has more to do with the horn's ability to accurately and adequately reproduce frequencies a half-octave above Fc, and not so much to do with protection of the driver. I notice my Fc260 horns really start to poop out at 400Hz and are not much good at all below 350Hz; which has nothing to do with the driver. It's simply the size of the horn mouth and length of horn. Larger horns (lower Fc) that I've tested, are more capable of getting down to 350Hz and lower with the same BMS driver.
I'd love to know what other 2" compression drivers can get down to 300Hz, it would be nice to have another option or two.
The Elliptrac 240's really look great!
Greg
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I want a 2 inch horn, but I do not really want to remove a top hat support leg like I've seen done, got any ideas gentlemen?
It's not a problem, the leg can simply be moved over a little and re-attached. The reason it needs to be moved or removed with the V-Trac horn is because of the size of that particular horn. It is quite a large horn. FYI, the brackets on the back of the V-Trac horn act as braces to replace the one Klipsch brace that is removed, so you really don't need to worry about losing that one brace.
In my opinion, and also the opinion of a hundred Volti customers, the 2" throat horn and the 2" outlet BMS 4592 driver is a vast improvement over the stock 1" throat horn. I don't know why anyone would not go to a 2" horn when upgrading the Khorn midrange horn.
One of the unique features of the V-Trac horn is that you can use it with a Volti adapter and the stock K55 drivers at first, and save money initially. Then later upgrade to the bigger and better mid drivers without having to change horns.
We just built 2"-throat horn #335 - a little to my surprise frankly. I thought the Klipsch upgrades business would have run the course by now, but sales are steady.
Greg
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The mid horn would need to be Fc200 to be crossed over at 300Hz, and of course the driver would need to be able to handle being crossed that low.
Greg
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For what it's worth, when enclosing the backs of Khorns, it's better not to reduce the size of the horn when doing so. This means adding the back pieces to the outside of the horn, not inside.
Greg
Reviving a old thread for possiblities, but Greg you you explain this a little more. I am having a hard time understanding it, I have been to your site dozens of times. Read your progress on enclosing the backs several times. I seen where you removed the 1/2" tail board and added the wider thicker piece. But I just don't grasp what you are saying here.
I'll try.
Normally, the last part of the Khorn bass horn relies on the walls in the corner to provide the sides of the horn. The drywall (or whatever the finish is on the wall) is the surface that the sound waves bounce off of on their way out of the horn. The bottom panel of the tophat forms the top of that part of the horn, and along with the tailboard of the bass horn, holds the cabinet in position so the spacing is optimum and the size of that last part of the horn is the 'correct' size and expansion.
So when we build cabinet sides onto the Khorn to take the place of the walls in the corners, we should install the plywood in the same location. That means spacing the plywood sides out and installing them so they are where the drywall normally is. What I see happening with some enclosed backs, is that the plywood is being installed so that it is inside the horn area. If 3/4" plywood is being used, I see it being installed 3/4" of an inch in from where the drywall surface is. I understand why, because it keeps the whole cabinet, including the top section flush to the wall.
If installing the plywood outside of the designed horn area as I suggest, it pulls the whole cabinet, including the top section away from the wall 3/4", and that has obvious aesthetic issues. On the http://www.klipschupgrades.com/flkhorn.shtml
'FLKhorn' restoration I did, I actually extended the backs of the tophat panels so they would sit flush against the wall after enclosing the backs of the bass horn. This was a lot of work, and something I wouldn't do again. I would simply make new plywood panels.
I don't doubt that enclosing the backs of the Khorn bass horns 'inside' the horn area will work, I'm just saying that the better way is to have the plywood outside of the horn area.
Greg
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FWIW, I'm using V-Trac horns and BMS4592ND drivers in my Khorns with John Warren's networks, mid resistors at -10db.
Greg
These are the same drivers that come with the Oris Horns that I just ordered. They have the tweeter also, correct? What kind of crossover are you using for these drivers? What Freq?, Slope? etc...
Yes, mine are the coax version of the 4592, but I'm not using the tweeter. Not only do my horns not disperse well above 6K, but the tweeter unit in the BMS coax is just not my cup of tea.
The networks I'm currently using are the ones John designed for the Volti upgrades - the KV1 http://www.klipschupgrades.com/NREKV1KV2.shtml
The Oris horns are nice - you're replacing the Altec's?
Greg
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FWIW, I'm using V-Trac horns and BMS4592ND drivers in my Khorns with John Warren's networks, mid resistors at -10db.
Greg
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Dave, have you listened to it yet? I bet it's a great sounding horn.
With a six-axis, you could smooth the backs too.
Greg
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Do you still have one of these for sale?
I just had another one crap out on me. Second one in six years. I use it in my shop system with the MCM's. I don't know why I want to replace it with another one. I guess it's because I like the features and the low price, but wow, reliability on the Behringer stuff is really bad. Been through a couple of the DCX2496's too, and I only use mine occasionally.
Still - I'll take one if you have one for sale.
Greg
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Time alignment was barely perceivable -- no one in my household could even hear the difference, even when I told them when I was turning it on, and turning it off. I could hear it, but believe the difference/improvement is overstated. I of course completely agree with you about the horn.
Sounds like this was done with electronic time alignment. Have you ever tried the 'analogue' version of moving the mid and tweeter back to see if that made a more noticeable difference? Harder to switch between the two.
I also tried the electronic time alignment on my Khorns and could not hear a noticeable difference in or out.
Greg
Volti Audio V-Trac Demo Horns
in Garage Sale
Posted
I think it's really cool that I'm the only one here who has "0 warning points".