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DIY Sub Help - Ear? Someone


wsu99999

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Man! That is really too bad. So there are only two models of high pass filters that will work. I guess I really don't even understand what the high pass filter does. Wouldn't my Marantz control any signal going to the subwoofer? If I tell the marantz not to send anything out the LFE channel above 60hz or 80hz, how can the material still get there?

Thanks for all of your help guys, I guess I really am still a bit confused - although you have all been very helpful!

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Here is the same driver, in the same box with the same amount of power. RED is what you propose with no high pass filter to keep the driver from bottoming below tune, GREEN is with a proper highpass filter at 23 hz.

If you use the sub simply for music, you may get away with using no high pass filter, as long as you don't turn it up too high. However, there are many movies with a lot of sub-sonic content as low as 5 hz ( like War of the worlds for instance ) that would break that driver. Even with a strong enough signal at 16 hz ( pipe organ stuff ) will bottom the driver without a high pass filter.

A sealed box does not suffer from this, but in a vented box below tune, there is no 'spring' to control cone movement below tuning.

post-9504-1381944684214_thumb.jpg

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Man! That is really too bad. So there are only two models of high pass filters that will work. I guess I really don't even understand what the high pass filter does. Wouldn't my Marantz control any signal going to the subwoofer? If I tell the marantz not to send anything out the LFE channel above 60hz or 80hz, how can the material still get there?

Thanks for all of your help guys, I guess I really am still a bit confused - although you have all been very helpful!

You may be confused about what a high pass filter does. A high pass filter lets everything ABOVE a set point pass. So if you select 20Hz, then everything below 20Hz should not pass through the filter. Everything HIGHer than 20Hz should PASS. Bear in mind, it's not a brick wall, but that's the general idea. What we're trying to accomplish is not having, lets say some info down to 10 Hz get to your driver. The driver will try to reproduce this frequency and in doing so extend itself farther than it should and damage itself.

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Now I gotcha. Thanks so much for all of the help. So for that Behringer Feedback Destroyer, couldn't I set the gain extremely low on everything below 20hz? Wouldn't that essentially do the same thing? Only reason is it would save me 60 bucks. Clearly my logic is flawed or you would have already said it would work. I guess I'm going to have to spring an extra 100 out. This is getting to be a hassle!

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No. the Behringer does not eq below 20 hz. Getting back to the beginning, if you are thinking about selling the driver anyways... why not just build a new box and use a bigger sub that's suited to a sealed box and the power of the EP2500 you already have coming?

If you have next to zero for skils and tools you can still build one for cheap if you get someone to cut all the pieces for you, like a cabinet shop or big box store / lumberyard etc. Glue and clamps would cost you a few bucks, no more than about $ 60 or so. You can paint it with latex house paint if you seal it up with a shellac first. If aesthetics are higher on the priority, then you might consider a veneer finish. Also, if you have someone who does a bit of woodworking, they may already have clamps or a shop you could use.

A larger diameter sub with a bit less excursion can tromp that dayton 12" sub in terms of output, while sounding clean. Many things to think about. For a first build, it's easiest to build a sealed sub, hard to go wrong.

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If the above is what I need - is there anything else? What wires? I have xlr to rca cables (2 of em) will that be enough? Or do I need a xlr to Rca from the Marantz to the ultragrain pro then xlr to xlr from the ultragrain to the behringer? If so, I need to buy another cable too.

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Yes, that is the same item, $ 80 shipped is a decent deal in my opinion. You need ( 1 ) RCA to XLR cable from the Marantz to the Ultragain PRO MIC 2200, then you need either a male to female XLR cable, or a XLR to 1/4". ( make sure the gender is correct )

I would simply go with a male to female XLR, you should be able to pick up one at a music instrument shop locally, or off eBay.

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Mike,

I sincerely appreciate your help through all of this. I went against your advice and just ran the behringer to my sub without the preamp (or whatever you call it) and have played with all of the jumper settings, but nothing I do seems to give the sub much power.

It's clearly hooked up because it's getting a little juice and I've tried both channels with the same results. I know it's probably something stupid - what am I missing?

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Increase the gain control on the front of the amp, and your AVR receiver needs to be bumped up as well. For instance, if your AVR sub out level goes to say +10, set it to at least 3/4 of that, so about 8 in that case. I will measure the throughput of the Behringer Ultragain MIC PRO 2200 tomorrow for you, and post a picture.

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It's clearly hooked up because it's getting a little juice and I've tried both channels with the same results. I know it's probably something stupid - what am I missing?

Be sure you check DIP switches #3 and #8. You may be cutting all your output below either 30 or 50 Hz.

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I've set my sub to as high as it will go in my receiver as well as cranked up the amp all the way. Their isn't much power pushing the sub and with the gain so high on the receiver, I think it's affecting the sound a bit (it's somewhat distorted). The jumper settings are right as far as I know (i have the limiter off, and I read all the instructions).

I've heard of some people having issues with too little voltage going from the receiver to the amp, but I'm running a farily new Marantz so I would think it should be ok if any receiver would be.

I'm definately not spending any more money to get a converter box that jumps the voltage up - if that's the case, all this gear will be listed on the forum in the "garage sale" section!

I also heard that if you hook up a BFD (something I found locally and passed on earlier in this thread for 40 bucks) it will fix the voltage problem. I'm hoping that the preamp will do this as well!

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