Jump to content

New K 33 E


rama

Recommended Posts

This is a very sad day

The wooofer ( K-33-e ) insde one of my klipschorn from 1982 just died....

I was wondering if anybody would have a spare on for sale or would have a n idea on where to get one???

Any help is very much appticiated!

Thanks

Rama


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow !!! thanks for such a quick answer!

Also I love music, I'm not much of a technical quick! and English is not my mother langage.

So sorry for my broken English....

before writing about my problem I did test the woofwer with an electrical tester. and unfotunatly it seems the power is not going thru.

So I assumed the woofer was fried...

Is there some other test I should run?

Also I forgot to mantion my K-33-E as a square magnet .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the cone or suround look in great shape I tink only the voice coil need to be replaced.

Do you know when they recone in a case like this if they still need to replace

all the moving parts of the speaker (cone and surround, voice
coil, lead wires, spider)

if yes does this change the sound carachteristique of my speaker?

Do I need to do the same thing on both speaker even tho one works fine???

rthanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check ebay for a replacement woofer. Bob Crites sells two types of them on there by the pair. I believe he'll sell you just one also. Klipsch also sells them.

or rather... Klispch sells original K33E replacement woofers, other sites may offer similar replacement woofers.

1-800-554-7724 is Klipsch Parts department

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.speakerplans.com/forum/dead-as-a-door-nail_topic5731_post48325.html?KW=dust+cap#48325

Remove the dustcap. The models I have custom made use a 4-1/2" felt dustcap that I trim off using an exacto knife leaving about a 1/8" ridge on the cone. The replacement dustcap glues right on top of this ridge perfectly. Buy new dustcaps.

Dig the ferrule out of the adhesive holding it to the cone. Split the ferrule with a pair of dykes and carefully remove from the voice-coil lead-out wire. Carefully scrape the insulation off this wire with your exacto knife for about 1/4" or so. Tin. Check and see that you have coil continuity. If you do, proceed. If you don't, re-cone. Do both leads, even though only one is probably bad.
Replace the tinsel leads. Run a bit extra and trim the excess at the frame when ready. I use two of the old thin style twisted together, it seems to have less 'flopping' than just one. Run through the hole in the cone. Bend the tinned wire into a 'U'. Crimp it around the new tinsel leads with a pair of needle-nose. Solder with 4% silver solder. Glue this connection down to the cone with epoxy (I sometimes use Goop). Build up a meniscus (little cone) of Weldbond on the tinsel leads right where they go through the cone. Do the same where the tinsel lead goes through the flag on the frame. Crimp the tinsel lead to the flag. I solder this too.
Glue the new duscap on with Weldbond. I set a small roll of tape on it for some weight.
Take your time, the first one you do may take an hour.
In the USA, the tinsel lead and dustcap are less than $2. If needed, a re-cone kit for a Delta series woofer in the USA is only about $15.
Edited by djk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...