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Sub-12 Quit working - FIXED!


ThaChad

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Hey all,

I have a F-3, C-3, S-3 & Sub-12 surround sound system all powered by a H&K Reciever. I have all monster cable wires.

Anyway, I have owned my system for about 2.5 years, and in the last month my Sub-12 decided to give out, The Red/Blue light on the front doesn't light up at all, the sub is unresponsive to anything, other than if I unplug the sub and plug it back in I get a little pop from the sub..

I took the amp/electronics out of the sub to see if there was anything obvious that came disconnected or broke but Didn't find anything.

I imagine no one has fixed these amps? The fuse is good. There's power to the amp/motherboard, I check it where the wires connect to the board from the power switch..

Does anyone know if I can order just the motherboard/amp from Klipsch? I guess I can take the sub to best buy to have it sent out for repair, not sure how much they will want to repair it though?

Thanks in advance for the help..

-ThaChad

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Welcome to the forum. I think Klipsch will swap the whole amp out for somewhere in the $60.00 range. Just call Klipsch parts, or tech. assistance. As far as fixing the amp yourself, either do a search on the subject, or scroll back a few pages in this section. You'll find several discussions.

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Welcome to the forum. I think Klipsch will swap the whole amp out for somewhere in the $60.00 range. Just call Klipsch parts, or tech. assistance. As far as fixing the amp yourself, either do a search on the subject, or scroll back a few pages in this section. You'll find several discussions.

I was going call Klipsch Monday to order an new amp, but I was able to fix it!

I found this post:

Klipsch SUB-10 and SUB-12 amplifier "fix" that worked for me so far...

Which made me take the amp back out of the sub and start poking around for loose connections...

Low and behold I found 2 things...

#1 The blue (Power On) light in the front of the sub is burned out! - The Red (Stand-By) light still works.

#2 The Potentiometer for controlling the low pass filter (Hz) had a loose connection to the motherboard. I re-melted the solder on all 6 solder points for the potentiometer while pushing on it and what do you know.. I have a working sub again!

It's weird that multiple people are experiencing this type of failure, the solder joints looked OK, but obviously had at least 1 bad joint. Of course that amp does take a beating inside that sub, but still seems like there might be an issue with the manufacturing process, perhaps not enough solder, not hot enough, too hot, etc.

-ThaChad

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