Thanks DeanG

[Hypoxia]

I just installed the DIY version of your RF-7 mod with the parts you suggest from Parts Express and your description of the install which made it very easy. They sound great.

Thanks for sharing your expertise!

[Arky]

Ole Dean ain't such a bad guy.

[Deang]

Not so bad.

So Hypo, what was harder -- getting the old parts off, or putting the new ones on?

[Hypoxia]

Searching through your 17,000+ posts to find the info was the hardest part! [:'(]

With your posts describing the process, especially the heat gun to soften the adhesive and where to mount everything it was equal. I've fooled around with electronics for over 40 years, made my living as a USAF Avionics Tech for nearly 10 years and have a solder sucker, soldering station etc. so that part of the process was easy. I'm not particular about solder resin residue so I didn't spend the time you do making everything pretty afterwards. [+o(] The second speaker was 60 minutes from the time I touched it until it was working again. The biggest time saver was leaving the LF board attached to the speaker on the second one. It really helps that Klipsch puts the parts value on the board so we don't have to worry about making a diagram of part positions.

Thanks again for everything.

[Guest davidness]

Can you provide any more of the info, or the links to DeanG's posts that you've already hunted down? I have some of them.

Tomorrow or Wednesday I take delivery of a complete set of AudioCap Theta's & Mills resistors for my RF7/RC7/RF7 replacing all resistors & capacitors on both HF & LF boards. I'm using the Jantzen capacitors for the 18uf, 22uf & 27uf values. AudioCap Theta PPC's for all the rest.

So, the important part... How does it sound TO YOU, and can you clearly hear the difference?

Thanks for any tips & information. I don't think it'll be too difficult. I even tested my skills unsoldering and re-solding in some capacitors onto one of the boards first before ordering the parts, just to be certain I was up to the task (I love learning new skills). With the right temperature iron, and some good de-solder wick, it seemed pretty easy.

I hope to take pictures and document the whole process, then post it all to a website to aid others. Since I'm no expert, any tips worth including would be very welcome.

[Hypoxia]

http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/37223.aspx?PageIndex=1

T20 Torx, remove horn (it's heavy hang on to it), disconnect the wires (use screwdriver to push terminal down), put horn aside. Back of speaker, remove terminal panel, boards are attached to it. I was only doing the HF board for horn so I took the 4 screws out, pulled the HF board out along with the horn wires. Desoldered all capacitors and resistors & heated board with heat gun to soften the adhesive that holds the components to the board. A hair dryer would work also.

10 ohm resistor in parallel with 2 ohm, I just wrapped the 10 ohm wires around the 2 ohm for a good mechanical connection & soldered it. Mount the resistors underneath the board so there is room on top for the caps. I used hot glue for everything. The 5uf cap mounts on top of the coils, the rest mount in the original positions.

Put it all together and enjoy DeanG's mod.

[Hypoxia]

Parts list I used from Parts Express, 2 of each: 005-1, 005-2, 005-10, 027-872, 027-890, 027-938

[Guest davidness]

Thanks!

So, did the update make an audible improvement to your ears?

[Guest davidness]

http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/37223.aspx?PageIndex=1

I had not seen that thread before. That was very interesting. Thank you very much.

[Hypoxia]

It was interesting, I did one speaker and listened with one original and one modified board. The mod took the "harshness"? out to my worn out ears, there was quite a difference. I didn't spend but a few minutes listening. The mod has had such a following I figured all of you folks know better than me!