Saw Stop

[MechMan]

Cool...I have heard about the saw stop not liking certain woods and was just wondering if that was the case. It WOOD suck to have to keep two table saws.

[Guest David H]

The saw stop has a safety feature bypass that can be enabled if you are cutting through conductive materials such as aluminum or if you suspect a quantity of brad nails, staples etc. They also post instructions to put a single layer of packing tape on the brake mechanism to prevent false activation if you do inadvertantly cut through a nail. So far I have seen no issues.

Dave

[tk49]

Dave, have you tried any of the Forrest line of saw blades? Excellent blades, pricey but worth the quality.

t

[Guest David H]

Dave, have you tried any of the Forrest line of saw blades? Excellent blades, pricey but worth the quality.

t

Haven't ever heard of them, I will check them out.

Dave

[tk49]

I've used the Woodworker ll, great for rip and cross cut, Chopmaster, for the miter and the Finger Joint blades, been impressed with then all.

Here's the link http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/category_2_Woodworker_II.html

Tom

[fini]

Two thumbs up from me for Forrest Blades. The best I've ever used. I've got a 12" Chopmaster on my miter saw, and the cuts in oak or walnut are shiny, they're so good.

BTW, I'll plug my miter saw, the Dewalt DW716. 12", double bevel, non-slider (for better blade stability, less bulky). It has a second fence behind the taller, regular fence that allows you to cross-cut a 2 X 10. I got a great accessory for it (Dewalt DWS7085), a little light that casts the shadow of the blade (thus showing the kerf location) before you cut. Much more useful than a laser, IMHO.