KP 362 / KP 682 system

[colterphoto1]

Ben, those venues were so small that we just used single tops. Another option for tops is the KP301, nearly the same components as 362. Saw this setup in a pub in Texarkana that Trey took me to.

WC- I was hoping you might find this of use. I know you're amassing some serious artillery on the east coast, and now it's time to put it all together into a 'system'. I had the hodge-podge going for quite some time and finally decided to engineer a working portable system. Takes a few more bucks and some time but then you have a dependable, fail-safe system that you can trust show after show.

Note- once you do the mods necessary to make this system work, your tops will input on 2 +/- so if you want to use them stand-alone, you need to make a cable that flips the signal from 1+/- or rewire your amp rack. I used to use double tops (without sub) sometimes but now just take the whole thing out all the time. It saves time not having to reconfigure your system for every gig.

My 'small' system is KP301's or KP250's on sticks. I also have a set of old EV TL 15" bins that I can use as passive subs for either of those setups, I put dual NL4's on them with a choke betweeen to roll off the signal going to the top bins (usually the 250's). Increases power handling and low end.

[colterphoto1]

For comparison, here are some photos of KP362 (shorter, 90 degree horn turntable, handles, NL4 connectors, fused, rear ported)

and the KI 362 (taller, front ports, 22 degree round horn turntable)

[colterphoto1]

back sides, that's the KP362 on the left with rear ports, NL4 and banana inputs, fuses, and handles. They are a bit shorter but much deeper cabinet then their brothers. The combination of more interior volume and porting means they will dig a big deeper than the KI versions, but generally a 80hz cutoff is appropriate with either top cabinet.

[colterphoto1]

They both have 14 hanging points accessed by backing out the m6 3/8-16
allen head bolt. Flyware is available or you can use eyebolts of
appropriate load bearing capacity. The KI is neater for hanging in
clusters because of the rotatable horn motor board. Note that you shoud
NOT tight-pack (hang directly next to each other) the KI362 as
destructive interference between their 90 degree horns will result.
Their cabinets are designed for a KI215 mid-bass bin to hang between
them, or you can follow the attached diagram to make up a bracket or
speaker board.

KI362cluster.pdf

KI362cluster.pdf

[Panacea Engineering]

Michael,

Do you think right angle Neutrix would put less strain on the speaker connectors? I am getting ready to order the stuff to make the cables up and was just wondering..... With the recess in the jack plate, there may not be enough clearance for them to work....your thoughts?

I will keep my home runs the same length....the engineer in me will not let me make one shorter......even though the resistance is negligable, there IS a difference. There have been books written about this theory.......[]

W. C.

[kg4guy]

We've written a lot here about the mighty MCM1900 and the KP600 systems. Here's the more modern Klipsch Pro setup that is easily transportable and has small footprint (for use in crowded pubs). Plus I kinda missed documenting stuff like this for you guys. Enjoy!

I started with two of the KI (I = Installed) 362 systems and KP682 (subs similar to cinema KPT684, but in 'battle dress' with metal grilles, handles, NL4 and wheels). I bought another pair of KI362s later.

Before I could build a system of them, I exchanged all four tops with Bill Hendrix for four KP (Portable) 362 systems. Sure, they were bigger, but they were fuse protected and had NL4 connectors and handles and rated to go down a bit lower. Bill needed the smaller KI for his church installation and I needed the KP series. Photos of both these series on page 2 of this thread.

Had a question on the wheels for the KP682's and it was a sunny day, so thought I'd roll a stack out and show you guys what I'd configured.

First here's some photos of the KP682 dual 18" sub.

Nice I could use one of these looks easier to get around than my Cerwin JE36C sub.

[colterphoto1]

I would not use the NL4 right angle plugs, for one you'd have to use a LOT smaller wire to be able to make the 90 degree bend. They are plenty sturdy and if you really are panicky about it you could use HST, safety cable, and an eyehook to create a little strain relief.

Plus note that on Klipsch the Neutrik plugs are actually 90 degrees counterclockwise of standard orientation (tab up). so they mount differently than any other speaker I've seen.

[Panacea Engineering]

Michael,

I truly appreciate the info...that's what these forums are all about....!

W. C.