TritonMI Posted April 17, 2002 Share Posted April 17, 2002 Been a while since my last posting due to computer failure, but I have finally finished my basement and am installing everything into the room. In the process of Wiring up my KLF-30's I have run into a minor problem. My Kenwood reciever has screw on terminals on the back, but they have some retarded flange around the outside making it near impossible to connect my wires. I am doing a double bi-wire (kind of by accident) and am using Audioquest Type4 and CV-4 so I have four wires going to each terminal. I bought some Monster Cable banannas because I have no other option. My problem is that just crimping these wires together doesn't seem like a good method to me. Does crushing the wires into the end of the banannas make a solid sound termination? ( I find it hard to believe) In browsing these boards for a while now I have heard about soldering the ends? Would this work better? I have inquired about using silver solder, but not sure how to go about that.. any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boa12 Posted April 17, 2002 Share Posted April 17, 2002 triton, take it you're talkin of the screw-on variety like monster lock. i wondered too, but put some on for the cornwalls & c7 rear center & they work fine. just as well as when i bare-wired them. hope that's some comfort. ------------------ My Home Systems Page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolly Roger Posted April 20, 2002 Share Posted April 20, 2002 This comes from the Audioquest website, take it or leave it... "Terminations for speaker cable are more complicated, only because there is so much misunderstanding of the very simple priorities. The best connection is what is called a "gas-tight" or "cold weld" connection, formed when the wire and the piece it is connected to have been pushed together with enough force to cause a change in the shape of the materials at the surface where they meet. When a spade lug is crimped around a group of copper strands, the strands develop flat spots where they touch each other and where they touch the inside of the lug. These flat spots are gas-tight connections. Because they are gas tight they will not oxidize or degrade. If this connection is soldered after crimping, the solder cannot flow into the area where the metal is pressed together. The gas-tight connection will continue to be the primary electrical pathway. If the connection had been soldered before crimping, the solder would be an additional material impeding the electrical pathway and contributing to distortion." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted April 20, 2002 Share Posted April 20, 2002 I believe the Audioquest comment is in some ways incorrect. I often use a crimp on spade lug or ring connector and then heat and let the solder wick in. This creates more area of metal to metal connection, and thus the resistance is lowered. There is no reason to think distortion is increased by a better connection. The connectors typically have a "tinned" i.e. solder surface to begin with. Therefore, if you solder before crimping, you have a crimped solder to solder connection. Again, there is little wrong with that. Though I prefer solder. Just about everything else in the electronic circuits is soldered. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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