moray james Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 Looks like a bit of a project you can try it out on the back baffle first to see how it works . Personally I would go the sanding primer and top coat route but that`s just me. I imagine that if you are going do this job you are making an investment in materials and time. Do yourself a favor first. With a good sharp chissle and some razor knife blades remove all the hot melt glue used to bond the baffles from the inside of the cabinet and scrape down to the wood veneer surface of the the box walls. On my KLF`s there was a considerable amount of adhesive which squirted out of the joint when the baffles were installed. Once you have all the hot melt removed and scraped down to the bare wood you can install some 3/4 inch fir strapping all the way around the baffle to cabinet joint. Just apply white glue to the surface of the strapping which faces the wood veneer cabinet walls not to the surface of the strapping which will face the baffle. Let the glue set up then you can install pilot holes for screws (drywall screws will do fine) to clamp the baffles tightly in place. You can sink the screws and bondo over them them you can refinish your baffles. This is insurance in case your baffles are either already have loose or they become that way over time. I just got a set of KLF 20`s which the original owner thought were fine and I ended up removing all four baffles to repair them. Most guys don`t even realize the baffles are loose. The screws are good insurance either way and the strapping will help stiffen the cabinet up at the same time. While you are inside the cabinet you might want to consider adding some braces and cross stiffening which will tighten up the bass by reducing box flex. Good luck and have fun then enjoy your speakers. Best regards Moray James PS: if you are at all interested I can give you a link to a thread where I have pictures of what I did to a set of KLF 20`s over at audiokarma. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venaka Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share Posted November 2, 2011 Yes please send link from ak. MJ you have been the best, like my personal epic customer service. I checked the port baffles and your correct, full of old glue. yeah, sand , primer paint is the way to go. I will go tomorrow to hd or ace and look at ronseal one coat melamine and mdf paint. ill keep u posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 Just so you can have a look and perhaps get some ideas that may work for you. Best regards Moray James. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=372783 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venaka Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 OMG MJ, You should do mine..Can you?..Where r U? First of all, let me tell you that todays search for melamine paint was a mission. I went to Ace and HD and ended up gettinng a primer called Gripper and some semi gloss black paint and two brushes. Hope this works. The guy in HD knew about Melamine but only had one color, white. He said that only the canadians that come down for the winter usually ask for it. He said to use the gripper, and then use the semi gloss behr paint and I should be happy. I love the bars you installed inside your speakers.. Your like a jesus when it comes to carpentary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Well if I am like Jesus then it's only becaue I call out his name so much when I am working. If you find a suitable primer then any top coat will bond to the primer. Use a 35 degree sheen for the coat that is all the gloss you want for a baffle. A semigloss (higher sheen) will shine and reflect too much light even through a grill cloth and a flat paint shows every thing and every time you touch it so 35 degrees is perfect. If you install braces made from double layers of 3/4 inch ply (any ply will do) 1.5 inches thick by 3.5 inches wide up the middle of each side the back and the top and bottom then use the same material to tie your braces together (you already have the cross brases so add in front to back (or from the cross brace to the back) and the top and bottom to the back you will add an enormous amout of box stiffness so your bass will be tighter and much more articulate. I installed similar dimensioned braces across the baffle above and below the mid horn and between the two woofers and belod the bottom woofer as well. Good luck and report back your results. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Take a look at the Quartet speakers that I did in the same link to see what the cross braces on the baffles look like, I think there are a few pictures which will show them clearly. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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