sean5340 Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) I bought a 10" from an RPW-10 from a fellow forum member (Excellent Transaction!). I am building a sealed enclosure to use with an existing 150 watt amp. This is my old school mark up. Edited April 30, 2015 by sean5340 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Don't forget your bracing and post lots of pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 Yeah, I like taking pictures. All panels are cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 I'm happy with the fit. Everything is glued and nail gunned. I'm going to also add screws. I ripped a 2x4 for the internal corner braces so that the screws would bite without stripping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) You may want to go with ports. The RPW-10 was slot ported. Fortunately, you can add round ports after the fact if you want to play with the low frequency extension. FYI, your enclosure is 1 cu ft as you know, and the RPW-10 was 1.3 cu ft. I don't know the dimensions of the slot port, but if I did, I could quickly tell you what it is tuned to, and suggest a round port size to start with. I am going to guess a 4" long 2" diameter round port. Edited April 30, 2015 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the heads up. I'll try sealed to begin with since this will be on my patio. I don't want critters getting inside of it. If it doesn't do the job I may try porting it. I've had good luck in the past building ported and sealed. I think I like the sound of a sealed sub a little better. Edited April 30, 2015 by sean5340 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I have had critters in subs before. In fact I have a dead Paradigm out in the garage that was killed by mice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Everything is glued and nail gunned. I'm going to also add screws. You won't need screws if it's glued. they won't add any strength. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I'd brace like the picture on the right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 This is a dual 12" driver box I built. The picture shows the bracing I'm referring to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 I was thinking due to the small size of the enclosure that center trusses may do the job without cross members. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 You need to brace from one side to the opposing sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 OK, I braced it as you mentioned. This should do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Much better. You'll need to do the same thing from the driver side to the bottom panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 That will have to wait. The back will be removable in case I want to add a Dayton SPA250 amp later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Why would you need to remove the back to install an amp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) That's a good question. I thought it might make it easier to cut and modify but it doesn't really matter. Anyway, holes are done. The fit is perfect! Edited April 30, 2015 by sean5340 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 I want to mention my router circle jig. I just used some Plexiglas from Home Depot and screwed it to the bottom of my router. It's been going strong for several years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I was lazy and just bought a Jasper Jig. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 I checked the Jasper years ago, I think it was 30 or 40 bucks. I'm too frugal for that. As a matter of fact I think I learned about it on this forum. I have the motor board pieces glued and under heavy compression. I'm going to attach the back then run to Home Depot. I thought that i had a terminal cup but I don't. I'm going to use some stainless steel bolts for terminal studs. Double nutted on each side and wires attached with eyelets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.