jwadd21 Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 And why did you do it? Better sound? Louder? Please explain the science behind stacking them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin_tx_16 Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 i heard there was a acoustic reason, but he told me that he just ran out of room LoL ------------------ -justin SoundWise promediatech@Klipsch.com /1-888-554-5665 - RA# 800-554-7724 ext 5 s> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cluless Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 Ed posted the hows & whys a coupla days ago here - http://216.37.9.58/cgi-bin/ubb/postdisplay.cgi?forum=Forum8&topic=001196 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornEd Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 Thanks for the assist, friend cluless, especially these days when keeping up with the Forum is not easy. And, Justin, the issue was not "space" but rather "ideal space." For jwadd21's benefit, here is a supplementary review: 1. Great bass occurs below 80Hz and is non-directional. Generally speaking, if your subwoofer stands out as the source of your bass programming... it has failed the test of being a great subwoofer. Ideally your subwoofer should function as a transparent extension of your primary speakers. Above 80 dB's your ear has the potential to locate the source of the sound... so the human hearing system will ascribe the source of true "subwoofer" output to the primary speaker(s) that have the over 80Hz sounds associated with the subwoofer produced under 80Hz sounds. A good subwoofer makes this transition completely transparent to the listener. A poor subwoofer emits harmonics which destroy the illusion. 2. One needs to achieve 20Hz at 121.5 dB to hear all the bass recorded in Dolby Digital DVD's. In better commercial theater installations, meeting or exceeding this Dolby Reference Level assures that the patron is capable of hearing the lowest notes recorded under the current Dolby Digital system. A good subwoofer system will have the power and accuracy to provide these powerful levels for the split-second they occur. The short burst of low-frequency energy mirrors what occurs in real life... and, thus, the "natural sound" to be found in real life is available in your listening area without having the volume of your receiver turned way up! Obviously, having a separately amplified subwoofer, the subwoofer volume can be set to the best level for good room dynamics and/or better neigborly relations. 3. Finding a great bass corner can add 6 dB to the SPL top end. The power that it takes to raise the Sound Pressure Level of your subwoofer doubles for each 6 dB up the scale. No popular priced (under $3k) high-quality subwoofer I know of produces Reference Level Bass with only one unit. Placing an SVS Ultra in a good bass corner will double its power adding 6 dB the same as adding a second SVS Ultra would. As powerful as they are, it takes two SVS Ultras in an ideal bass corner to exceed Reference Level Bass by a scant 1 dB. The old standard about temporarily putting your subwoofer in the middle of your listening area and taking SPL readings around the room (at floor level and ear level, preferably) to search for the best SPL reading corner is highly recommended. For me, having one corner that significantly outperformed all others was a factor in tweaking the stacking concept. 4. Stacking subwoofers to avoid problems and reap a sound ceiling benefit. Placing two subwoofers side by side in the same corner is not only visually congested but also has the potential of negatively impacting "clean" subwoofer dynamics due to their positional effect on each other. Stacking subwoofers provides a smaller footprint with each subwoofer being the same distance from the reflecting walls. In the case of SVS Ultras, their 39" length (plus the room needed for the ports to work on the lower unit) provides a seven foot tower... which brings the ceiling into play for the top unit's ports to reflect upon. (Stacked SVS Ultras need to be mounted base-to-base with the ports firing to the floor and the ceiling respectively... as per SVS's Tom Vodhanel). An added benefit is that stacking can provide a shorter, more efficient, and less costly subwoofer(s)hook-up. 5. The acoustics of each listening environment is unique... and more so for subwoofers. Great subwoofers produce waves that are more than 30' long... and these long waves have a higher potential to cancel each other out or double in intensity at points in your room. In my experiments with my listening environment, the room was much cleaner from these secondary anomalies than it was with putting the Ultras side-by-side, or in corners flanking the 65" Mitsubishi HDTV. I have had as many as five Klipsch subwoofers strategically placed throughout this room (3 - 12" and 2 - 15"... although, admittedly not the improved Reference versions) and they did not begin to match the SPL power, "naturalness" and musical majesty of one seven foot Ultra Tower. But there is one big drawback... being stuck listening to a lesser system in the car, motorhome, a friend's house, or your local mega-theater will never be as satisfying once your ears taste the tower. -HornED ------------------ This message has been edited by HornEd on 08-23-2002 at 08:51 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwadd21 Posted August 23, 2002 Author Share Posted August 23, 2002 Well Horned managed to find a nice thing to stack them in. I have nothing like that, maybe a trip to home depot's flower shop is in order....after that i would just slide one on top of the other right? no liner between the two subs or anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cluless Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 Ruh Ro Ed - I posted the link because I thought that you had "motored off" for the weekend. Hope all is well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornEd Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 Thanks, clu, I appreciate your help... and that that you have extended to so many other Forum folk. And, don't forget, your penchant to pounce with on point "expertease" continues to illuminate this Forum. Now, if only all that charm, wit and sagasity could only produce a "Jersey Cat Gnaw Proof" wiring scheme cheaper than the Holland Tunnel... -HornED PS: Just waiting for the pills to kick-in to driving safety level. Cheers and have a great "catabulous" weekend. ED This message has been edited by HornEd on 08-23-2002 at 10:18 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwadd21 Posted August 23, 2002 Author Share Posted August 23, 2002 So Horned, can I buy the same flower thing at a store? what it is called? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HornEd Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 Sorry, jwadd21, but as I described in other posts, the stand I bought was a chrome corner stand for cooking pots. I spent about $100 for this chrome stand for my gourmet kitchen. To use it as an SVS Ultra holder, I had to replace all the cross-pieces with steel flat stock cut to the appropriate size and drilled to accept bolts. The stand consists of three vertical posts with tapering bowed chrome cross-pieces of flat stock bolted to the vertical flat stock. The vertical pieces are bent to create feet on the bottom and they are similar decorative bends on the top (if you look closely at my photo sig you can see them). Given the number of requests I've had, I should probably take the time to draw some simple plans. One of these days I expect to build one from scratch and return the chrome pot stand to its kitchen duties. If I were to build one from scratch, here is the list of materials that would be required: . Units Size Item . 3 1" x 1/4" x 72" flat stock steel . 6 3/8" x 1/4" x 17" flat stock steel . 6 To fit holes bolt, nut, & lock washer Twist and bend the end of each 72" post so that 69" of the post will be perpendicular to the speaker with 3" of the flat side to the floor. The ports need a minimum of 6" clearance from the floor. Drill holes large enough for the bolts in each post and each crosspiece. Bolt each post to three cross pieces that have been bowed to allow the stock to rest against the flat side of each post. Remove the grill from one Ultra. Measure the distance from the steel collar on the speaker to the wood bottom plate. Drill holes in each post that will allow the top cross pieces to fit WITH ENOUGH SPACE to put a piece of Dynamat (automotive audio sound deadening material) on each portion of all crosspieces where they touch the speaker. Attach the self-stick Dynamat. Carefully put the lower Ultra in the partially assembled stand with its base end up. Assemble the top set of crosspieces. Put a 4" piece of self-sticking Dynamat on the top of each crosspiece near the post. Carefully lift the second Ultra and place it atop the top crosspieces. Unless you have a cathederal ceiling, this step will require that you tip the bottom assembly so the top Ultra will slide in. Hook it up and ENJOY! The trianglular shape makes a very stable base... and the total rig weighs in at about 150 lbs. and has been rock steady. It really a fairly simple and straight forward job that I built in less than an hour. -HornED ------------------ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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