Purchasing RP600m II, RP5000F or RP6000F for 11x14 room .. music only

[Hifi72]

On 6/30/2023 at 11:25 AM, Southern said:

Is your terminal cup round or rectangular?  

If it's round there is a good chance that the crossover components are located on the back of the terminal cup, if it's rectangular then the crossover components are mounted to a circuit board.

Good to know.  I have the rectangular version, so they are likely connected a circuit board.

[CCG]

10 hours ago, Hifi72 said:

My room size is roughly 11 x 14 x 9H, and the speakers are located on the short wall.   When constructed the room has a wall shelving unit in this area that surrounds the stereo in each corner 15"D x 21"W up to the ceiling and across to the other side and down again, like an upside-down U shape.  As I have them spaced @8 ft apart it is necessary to bring the speakers out from the wall about 30" to the front baffle to clear the wall unit, but in reality they are roughly a 6"-8" clearance to the passive radiator to wall unit door when they are angled slightly toward the listening position..  Not ideal but in the other direction I would have to place them on an angle in the corners to clear the large window.  My forte's were built in Nov. '89 and have the 12" passive.  Hope this helps.

That will give me  wider view on my next approach of future speaker cab in my home outside the states. I just want to use the simplest like 1 cabinet per channel and no subs. In my living room its 625 sq. ft. and I'm using a klipsch 8 inch tower and its just perfect for my listening. I like the speakers to work at its full potential so it works out on low and high volumes.

In my home overseas my listening area is 985 sq ft. its kind of long ways. I'm not so sure if its a toss between a 12 or 15 inch speakers.

The reason why I said 15 inch, because in my younger days, I use to make custom boxes and install car stereo. I have made maybe over 400 boxes. The one that I really like the sound the most is either 8 or a 15".

I was thinking if the the 15 inch is too big for a 1000 sq ft, I might have to design a band pass box or a different order. 

I think I remember now the sound of a passive radiator. I just havent made one since the late 80's. 

Anyways thank you for the follow-up.

CCG

[Turnip]

Hifi72, I have a pair of Forte II from 1990 so only 1 year newer than your Forte I.  At 30 years old, you can pretty much guarantee capacitors will degrade and shift in value.  So performance of the crossovers degrades.  Several years ago, I replaced the factory crossovers with new ones from Crites.  Crites uses better capacitors and inductors than the factory.  Removing the rear passive radiator made swapping out the crossovers a breeze.  The difference in the speaker performance was a dramatic improvement.  If you don't want to replace the entire crossovers, at a minimum you should consider replacing the capacitors.  

[OO1]

5 hours ago, Turnip said:

  Crites uses better capacitors and inductors than the factory. 

  wrong ,

 

the testing done with JEM Klipsch capacitors blow away the Sonicaps used by Crites ,  and by a long shot  ,  only the klipsch Factory capacitors have the exact specs for restoring older klipsch networks , anything else is gonna sound very different .

 

- as far as you saying that Crites use  better inductors than klipsch ,   real-time testing and measurements show   klipsch + 45 years old  Factory inductors have spot-on specs  , while , new Crites inductors   impact the network's performance in 1 way or the other .  

  .

[Turnip]

Well, I will say to my ears, and my friends ears, the new crossovers made a HUGE improvement in my Forte IIs.  My friend put Crite crossovers in his Corus Is and it made a huge improvement in those too.  Maybe Klipsch uses / sells better components now, but after 30 years, capacitors are going to degrade and should be replaced.

[OO1]

 klipsch  factory  capacitors   are a mirror of the original components   ,    a klipsch drop in replacement part 

[Turnip]

Good to know.  If he or anyone else want to take out a soldering iron and go to town, then that is a good option. 

[OO1]

yes it is  

[Hifi72]

That's good to know there are options.  I'd likely start with the most inexpensive first.  It's been a over 30 years, so it would make sense that the capacitors are not at 100%.  After doing some reading I am unsure which tweeters I have in my forte's.  My guess is that they are original and phenolic, but the tweeter has a textured silver appearance in the center, and looks metallic.