Adding Spikes to Speakers

[cn1790]

Anyone thought about adding spikes to their Forte's? I've read that subs need them for better bass reproduction and transmission and the Forte's are great at bass which got me to wondering if spikes might enhance their sound even further. Any thoughts? They are currently sitting on the their supplied base on a carpet.

[Tyson68]

I took this route with my Forte II's:

http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=14584&forumID=71&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={951EE874-B4FE-445F-B6B3-C49894E82843}

[cn1790]

That's a great thread. Thanks. On the electronic stuff, what are the sound differences you noticed pre/post mod?

-tim

[Tyson68]

So far i've only done the base mod and upgraded the wires from the posts to the x-over board, if you remove the terminal post box you'll see the micro-wires they used. After I saw this for the first time, it made no sense to me to use a 12 or 10 guage speaker wire from the amp, and have 18-22 guage from the binding post to the board.

If I can get the money together, I think i'll tackle the electronics part of it over Thanksgiving.

[jt1stcav]

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On 9/27/2003 2:10:08 PM cn1790 wrote:

That's a great thread. Thanks. On the electronic stuff, what are the sound differences you noticed pre/post mod?

-tim

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Thought about spikes under my Cornwalls...I think artto has posted a thread about this subject (or at least responded to one) a while ago; Maybe you can do a search on the Klipsch Forums on this subject.

I've got solid cones under my CD player (see my sig), and to tell you the truth, I haven't really heard any difference between the cones and the player's stock thick plastic feet. But I'm sure my cheap MDF entertainment center cabinet doesn't help any. I want to buy a Lovan, Salamander, Sound Organisation, or Standesign audio rack with Mapleshade isolation platforms (I'm sure that would improve the sonic qualities of my system, along with added benefits of the cones), but my finances won't permit me at this time.

[3dzapper]

When you drive in the spikes, make sure they are far enough back so as not to puncture the woofer. Really, they might help tighten up the base.

Rick

[forte]

I just spiked my Fortes. Got the spikes from PartsExpress.com - less than $3 for a pack of four. See the attached pictures. I took the risers off and brought them back to my drill press, bored the holes, inserted the supplied t-nuts and wha-la.

Do they sound better. Sure they do - I just spent an hour working on them, what do you expect? They seem to sound much deeper and stronger in the lower bass areas. Well, I think they sound better, but who knows really, maybe I just immagine. They are sitting much more stable, no doubt there, and I do believe that this must help the drivers be more efficient in driving air. Without a sure footing, its like driving in mud.

Initially I was worried that the t-nuts might tear out of the riser if I tilted the speaker and put weight on two spikes, but so far no problem. Of course I am not trying too hard to demonstrate their durability, but I had to tilt the speaker to level the spikes and no problems to report. I thought the riser was MDF, but I think it is Poplar after drilling.

Another note. In the picture, you might notice an extra hole in the center of the rear riser. I tried to spike the speaker in three points, to see how that worked, thinking of the stability of a tripod, but in the end the four point approach was by FAR more stable.

[forte]

Update. I am certain that the spikes dramatically increased the bass. I am sure because as I type this, the bass is vibrating my desk, mouse and keyboard. My sound level is low too, flat and -32db from my CD player. I have never felt this before with this setup. So not only can I hear the difference, I can feel it too. I don't always trust my ears, but this backs them up.

I should note that my floor is carpet - carpet padding - concrete. So the spikes are actually sitting on concrete. Don't know what that means, but it might be important.

Also, something that I forgot to add to my previous post. Adding the spikes is SO easy, in fact, my speakers kept right on playing right through the mod. Never even had to disconnect them or even shut off the music once.

[cn1790]

I found the spikes I think. It almost looks like you have 1/4" spikes but partsexpress.com shows 3/8" and 1/2" spikes. 3/8" just seems too big based on what I recall the thickness of the wood stand is. I'll have to go measure. I was considering building a base with threaded rod post sharpened than screwing the base to the bottom of the speaker itself. It's been one of those half finished projects since Iwas quite happy with the idea yet. Thanks the update tot he thread. I'm quite sure I'd rather go this way one I figure out the size spikes to use.

[Strabo]

Thanks for posting this forte!

I've been wondering about how to add spikes but never seen it done. After seeing this and reading about your experience it will definately be my next project after finishing with the Dynamat.

[hornnuts]

I put spikes on a pair of Cornwall's, pic for fun. The sound was improved a lot over having them on the carpet, better bass response. I also have Cornwall's on factory risers which also sound great, not sure which I like better, but spikes were a big improvement over no risers on carpet. I had been wondering about La Scala's on spikes?

[forte]

Tim,The ones I installed were 3/8" spikes from PartsExpress.com, part# 240-725. I used a 21/64 bit to drill the holes, but you might be able to use a slightly more standard size. The riser is roughly 3/4". The spikes themselves are far from 3/8", in fact the spikes are roughly 3/16" thick. I guess they get the 3/8" figure from the t-nut which is about 3/8" at its widest point. So when you install the t-nut, it is approximately 1/2 as wide as the riser stock. It looks and feels like a good fit for the riser.

HornNuts, thanks for the Cornwall pics. They must really be rockin.

[Colin]

here are a few other things I found that work:

1. dampening the CD player with gray Yorkstone paving stone and thick black Home Depot rubber mat to reduce jitter, go to http://www.enjoythemusic.com/tweaks/ to see what I mean

2. dampening the Cornwalls with 40 lbs. of paving stones and black rubber mats, go to http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/1299/sandbagging.htm

3. added EMI/RFI surge protector with 350 watt APC Uninterrupted Power Supply (UPS) to clean up power noise and sags, go to http://www.klipsch.com/index.asp?path=/products/index.asp?frame=y&id=&line=&1

4. mounted tube pre-amp and tube amps on paving stones with rubber mats

5. mounted stereo rack on large Yorkstone paving stone with rubber pad

6. wrapped power cables in rubber pipe insulation

These tweaks seem to add air, darkness, stillness and tightness all of which are crucial for the illusion of a holographic image and a realistic soundstage.

Each of these tweaks rank about a 1 on a scale of ten where the best Stereophile speakers merit a 8,9 or 10 score. Together however, they still only add up to a one or a two speakers, placement, sub-woofers and amplifiers still make far more difference to the sonic illusion and the enjoyment

[cn1790]

I took forte's advice, ordered the spikes and installed them. They do sound much better! The bass it tighter, the imaging clearer, the WAF is actually high on this one as she could tell the difference and very much approved, and the SPL increased across the board from 160 Hz on down. I had been moving the sub around the room so had taken the spikes off it for that and as a result had been doing a lot of SPL measurements and graphs. The graphs definelty show how spikes have increased the SPL of all frequiencies from 160 on down. It's really cool to see. Thanks to you all!!

Now about that putty someone mentioned putting around the mid-range speaker...obviously another thread and a hobby that is never done. Thank guys