bobd Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 So in the past I traded my Fortes to my sister for a lawn mower and some bucks. I moved into a house that just couldn't fit them. Eventually I NEEDED them back. So I got them back and made them fit. Anyway, my sister put a stone bust of Homer(not of Simpsons fame) on top of one of them and it stained it black. Something must have leached out of the stone. Also, my wife decided a flower pot would look nice on top of one and that leaked and out a water stain on it. I know these cabinets aren't solid oak so I'm wondering how thick the veneer is. Can I just sand away until the stains are gone and then re-stain? Do I need to replace the top veneer and if so how do I do that? I'd really like to fix them since they are otherwise in such mint condition. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill H. Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 bobd, The veneer is not very thick, but I have had good luck with Formbys furniture refinisher, and realy fine OO grade steel wool to get blemishes out. They have good directions on the package. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 I'm in agreement with Bill H. in theory. I just haven't done it his way. OTOH, I used Formby products and fine steel wool on other projects years ago. I had similar problems with walnut on Forte II and Quartets recently. I used 400 wet or dry paper and a puddle of furnature oil. The 400 grit is so fine that it is difficult to remove much wood. That is a danger though which is not to be discounted. Furnature oil from the local Tru-Value or Ace is actually just light mineral oil, just like motor oil or baby oil. It makes a decent solvent. Wipe off the excess. It will leave a shine for couple of days. It does not build a finish. Oak has special problems in that it reacts to various chemicals. That is why stains on oak floor are notoriously difficult. Maybe this is your problem and it may be a tougher (deeper) one than I had. You may find that the wood in the area you scrub is now lighter in color than the rest. So you may have to do the entire top, carefully. What you do in the long run depends on the original finish. Is is oiled oak or lacquered oak. If oiled any wipe on varnish will do well. Some use boiled linseed. Lacquer may require a spray on lacquer like Krylon. I have not done this, so others will have better advice. Masking off the adjacent sides will help with drips. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondawg Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Most standard veneers are cut to a thickness of about 1/28" to 1/40". At best, it's about 1/16". That ain't much. If it's an oil finish, you can TRY to sand them out and them reapply some tung oil. Chances are those stains went deep though, and you might be better off just trying to hide it than trying to repair it. Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 I agree with Father Quido Sarduchi (MoonDawg). But like Bill and I are saying, steel wool and 400 paper are not very agressive. An alternative is a scotchbright pad. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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