Mike Lindsey Posted June 11, 2001 Share Posted June 11, 2001 I saw some earlier threads on Omnimount and decided to look into them for mounting my RS-3's on my back wall. I looked up the RS-3 on their website and they recommend the RST-53 (9-15 lbs) for the mount, as the RS-3's weigh 12 lbs each. Here are the specs on the RST-53 (pan down) http://www.omnimount.com/umk.tpl?cart=3198270362261503 . The mounting plate on the RST-53 is only 3 3/8" wide and I need one that is 5 9/16" for the RS-3. Has anyone ever used the Omnimount hardware when hooking up to an RS-3? I would surely like to know how you did it? The other concern I have is the wiring with that mount. You need to have a hole in the mounting plate for the banana plugs to fit through. It doesn't look like the RST-53 allows for that. Any help from my Klipsch brothers and sisters would be greatly appreciated... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougdrake Posted June 11, 2001 Share Posted June 11, 2001 Mike - Two things: 1) You might try calling Omnimount and asking them about the mounting bracket and your other questions. I found them to be very helpful over the phone. 2) I've read on this board of some people who have fabricated their own mounting plate "interface" out of plywood to which they mounted the RS-3s and then mounted that assembly to the bracket. It allowed them to accomodate the difference in size and wire placement. Perhaps that would work for you. Doug P.S. - BTW, if the banana plugs create a problem, forget about them. Just wire directly to the binding posts -- you won't lose a thing. This message has been edited by dougdrake on 06-11-2001 at 10:59 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted June 11, 2001 Author Share Posted June 11, 2001 Thanks Doug! I talked with Stephanie at Crouze-Kimzey and she said they don't have a mounting plate that is big enough to fit the 5 9/16" eyelits of the RS-3's. Is there anybody out there that uses their hardware that has hooked up the RS-3? If so, how did you do it? If that doesn't work, I could build a pair of 2' x 1' shelves for the speakers to sit on. It might not look as nice but would that work? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 Mike, no I don't have RS-3's but look on the Omnimount site and click on the Utility Hardware section.I assume that if you are willing to mount them on a shelf then you want to wall mount them?.What are the dimensions of the hole pattern on the RS-3's? Do you want to wall mount them?Do you want them mounted vertically or would you like them angled downwards? I have purchased the Utility Hardware slide together brackets and can tell you that they are exacly as the name implies.They are well made and strong.All of the WQF models MSRP for $29.50 each.Great buy.They work too.Oh yeah,forget the bananas. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted June 12, 2001 Author Share Posted June 12, 2001 Thanks for the reply, Keith! The separation on the RS-3 is 5-9/16" and Omnimount doesn't have anything that wide, unless you get the mounts that are made for hundreds of pounds. I'm now thinking of building a white shelf (RS-3's are white) to let them rest on. They will be firing straight out from 6 feet high. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougdrake Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 Mike - I'm curious, why don't you just mount them directly to the wall using the provided keyhole mounts? I assumed, when you asked about brackets, that you wanted to angle them and were looking for a bracket that could accomodate that. But since you said you might put them on a shelf, that implies a level mounting, and the keyhole slots should be just fine for that... Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted June 12, 2001 Author Share Posted June 12, 2001 Doug, I may end up doing that as well. I currently have a 1" diamater hole where the wires (12g) come out. They are 6' high and there is a horizontal 2x4 right below the holes. With the 2x4, I can pretty much mount anything, including the speaker itself. I guess I would have to use bare wire if I mount the speaker directly to the wall... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougdrake Posted June 13, 2001 Share Posted June 13, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Mike Lindsey: I guess I would have to use bare wire if I mount the speaker directly to the wall... Mike Mike - IMHAVUO, you won't gain anything by using any type of connector on the binding posts (like banana, spade, etc...). In fact (perhaps), plugs only add another degradation point to the signal as it is just one more break in the connection between the amp and the speakers. I believe they only make it more convenient to connect/disconnect and in some cases are the only way to attach a large wire to a binding post. I am using banana plugs on my Forte's only because the hole drilled in the binding post is too small (!!) for 12 ga wire. Otherwise, I'd have 'em strapped right to the posts! Doug P. S. IMHAVUO = In my humble and very uneducated opinion (Drakeism - bygones). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted June 13, 2001 Author Share Posted June 13, 2001 quote: Originally posted by dougdrake: P. S. IMHAVUO = In my humble and very uneducated opinion (Drakeism - bygones). I figured everything out but the "U". Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htxpert Posted June 13, 2001 Share Posted June 13, 2001 Hi you can make your own simply by going to Home Depot Plumbing section.I have used this method for hanging speakers up to 60 lbs each.You use the same parts just bigger sizes for larger speakers.If you dont want to screw into the back of your speaker just use a scrap 3/4 piece of plywood inbetween the flange and your speaker.You can also vary the nipple length and add 90's for adjustable mounts.Being able to use a longer nipple inbetween the flanges is very usefull for speakers that have rear ports,it allows you to gain the distance between the wall and the speaker.You can dress up the mount by Painting the flanges and the nipple.Be shure to use the heavy duty anchors if you dont catch a stud,the kind that have the fat threads that you screw into the sheetrock. The flanges have 4 holes per flange and I use all of them.It will give you a professionall look without the need for a shelf Parts List 3/4" to 1-1/2" Galv Pipe Floor Flange x 4 ea $8 3/4" to 1-1/2" Galv Nipple 1-10" length x2 ea$4 1 box Heavy Duty screw in type wall anchors $3 1 box Heavy duty screws for anchors mounting $3 1 Scrap 3/4" plywood ? 1 can paint $2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htxpert Posted June 13, 2001 Share Posted June 13, 2001 Ahh Crap my drawing didnt post,I think you get the idea if not I will reply with futher instructions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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