Scp53 Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 I am going to build a subwoofer in the next month and have a few questions. (im going to use this subwoofer for music but needs to be able to shake and rumble well in HT) 1st- does it matter if you have spikes on the cabinet vs setting the whole bottom side on the floor? I've heard that it can increase output and help with imaging. 2nd- has anyone had experience with dayton DVC(dual voice coil) 12 or 15 woofers? from a few reviews from people that have it, sounds like there very well built for the money. I've looked at the specs: 600w RMS (both v-coils),vc-diameter-2inches, 90db 1watt/1meter, stamped steel basket(heavy gauge), 5year warrenty, 15mm xmax,and fs is 20hz). to me this is a bargain for the price:$130 There was another thread talking about building a sub with the DVC 12 but I don't think he said anything about its performance(i think its because its not all finished?) 3rd- could someone explain SPL: 90 dB 1W/1m, 93.4 dB @ 2.83V/1m . whats up with 2.83? for those wondering what I'm going to drive it with, I'm going to buy a 250watt rms(4-ohms) classA/B amp. Id buy something bigger but my budget limits me. a 500 watt amp would cost me over twice the price of the 250. and I don't think adding a another 250 watts of pwr will make a big difference. It would basically add more head room for peaks in movies. thanks in advance for any help, scp53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 I believe the purpose of the spikes is to penetrate carpet so that the speaker sits firmly on the floor. If you have non carpeted floors, rubber stops should do fine. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 ---------------- On 5/22/2004 2:44:20 AM Scp53 wrote: 1st- does it matter if you have spikes on the cabinet vs setting the whole bottom side on the floor? I've heard that it can increase output and help with imaging. 2nd- has anyone had experience with dayton DVC(dual voice coil) 12 or 15 woofers? from a few reviews from people that have it, sounds like there very well built for the money. I've looked at the specs: 600w RMS (both v-coils),vc-diameter-2inches, 90db 1watt/1meter, stamped steel basket(heavy gauge), 5year warrenty, 15mm xmax,and fs is 20hz). to me this is a bargain for the price:$130 3rd- could someone explain SPL: 90 dB 1W/1m, 93.4 dB @ 2.83V/1m . whats up with 2.83? ---------------- You got some good questions in there, but I'm not sure on how much research or knowledge you have in building your own sub. In other words, I don't want to offend you in explaining something you may be already well aware of. Here is a summarized version: 1- Spikes improve sound quality of subs placed on slippery surfaces (carpet) by preventing the driver from wasting it's energy moving the cabinet around. Rubber feet on a hard surface (like wood) are equally effective. To complicate things, building structures which resonate may either sound better with or without spikes depending on it's resonant frequency... so your results may vary. BTW, subs are not supposed to "image", and if they do, they may be crossed over too high. 2- Dayton are pretty good drivers, but so are Adire, Stryke, and Blueprint units. They all vary slightly in their bass extension, efficiency, and enclosure size requirements. All subs are made up of compromises... and it's a question of choosing the driver that best suits your needs. Have you experimented with simulation software? If not, WinISD is a good freeware, and will give you a good understanding of the tradeoffs in designing a sub. If enclosure size isn't an issue, you can usually get better bass extension and efficiency than with a driver which requires a small enclosure. 3- Speaker efficiency was generally stated as "dB per 1W/1m" but this is not a good measure since maintaining 1W would require actually have a variable voltage according to drivers impendence curve. The 8ohm and 4ohm often stated are only nominal reference values while the actual resistance can easily vary from 3ohms to 30ohms for a given full frequency speaker. Since Ohm's law states "Power (W) = Voltage (V)^2 / Resistance (ohms)" you can backward calculate that 1W into an 8ohm load will require 2.83V. It is much easier to maintain constant voltage than power, so 2.83V will provide results which are more comparable from one speaker to the next. If anything isn't clear, don't be afraid to post more detailed questions... Later... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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