craftsman Posted December 24, 2004 Share Posted December 24, 2004 R26 should be 56K Ohm - at least that is what mine is and some others have reported the same value. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s_thacher Posted December 24, 2004 Share Posted December 24, 2004 I just had a similar thing happen like what happened to everyone else. One speaker lost most of it's sound, and the problem was not in the speaker itself, so I opened up the sub, couldn't see anything blown, and tested the fuse, and it is still fine, then I put it back together, and no power was routed to the main satellite. So this thoroughly confused me because I hadn't actually done anything, so I began been testing resistors. Everything looks fine, I tested r26 and got a good value, but for r12 the color code shows that it should be 270 k ohm I believe, and I get 2.7 K ohm, now i don't know if this is a huge coincidence that i have the value moved over 2 decimal places or what is going on. So if anybody knows for sure what the corect value for R12 should be please let me know, or if anybody has any other ideas it would be greatly appreciated as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted December 25, 2004 Share Posted December 25, 2004 Not to be confrontational but no-one can know for sure what the value of your R12 should be. If you think about it, it is possible that Klipsch could have multiple versions of the same product (usually engineering improvements). In fact, I know that the Promedia 4.1s have a 120VAC version and a 220 VAC version that are not the same at all internally. The only thing I can tell you for sure about R12 is that my R12 measured 670 ohms and I replaced it with the closest value available - a 680 ohm resistor. Several other people have also replaced their R12 with the 680 ohm resistor and they have worked as well. However, it is entirely possible that R12 is 680 ohm and it is equally possible that R12 is not 680 ohms for everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s_thacher Posted December 31, 2004 Share Posted December 31, 2004 So my cirsuit board is darkened around R12, and Diode Z1, and I get a reading of 661 ohms for R12, so it seems like that is right, but everyone has replaced their R12 with 680 ohm resistors it sounds like, but in my attatched picture, I don't see how you would get that. It appears to me that the color code shows something like black brown red, which would be 100 ohms. If anyone can help me with this, it would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmaDoc Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 My r12 looked like it was pretty close to 680ohms (blue grey and brown, with what appears to be gold on the last band of color) so i got 680ohm resistors to replace it, and after i removed it i checked it and it read about 658ohms, to thats pretty close. my r26 still puzzles me though. now that i looke at it, in better light/with magnification, it looks like its colors maybe yellow, brown(or violet)(or maybe blue) and orange, so it could be either 47k,46k, or 41k ohm the big thing is that first color..its really hard to tell because its that far gone. As for my version of the amp, on the part of the metal thats normaly on the outside of the box I found right above the power input cord (which mine is the 120v verson btw) I found a "V.2-400" so im going to guess that means version 2 400watts. on the board its self near r12 i think it is I found "Indigo HC BASH 640014 Rev6. I think I'm going to see if i can find any info about this just to see if I can find any more positive values for r26 before I put the parts in and power it up. The capacitor I ordered is also taller and smaller in diameter than the one thats on the board. I guess I'll have to put it in on the other side of the board (assuming I can get it off because of the glue they put on it) and just pay extra special attention to the polarity when I put it back on. Maybe I'll get some pictures of the different areas and put them up soon. I'll post again with the pictures, or results from my fix. If anyone needs I found a website with the color coding for resistors: http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/gadgets/resistors/resistor.htm Good luck to all with this same problem. It might be a pain but its well worth the money saved to fix a great set of other wise great speakers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 I believe that everyone is forgetting about one important thing when it comes to these resistor colour codes - heat. Both R12 and R26 get really hot - let's face it, if it didn't we would not be replacing them! With the heat comes discolouration (as you can tell as you're trying to read the values off of the resistor). I know when I looked at mine for the first time, the colours were not really understandable; hence, I used a multimeter and checked the values out. I would always believe a multimeter over a discoloured resistor for the proper value any day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmaDoc Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Yeah, my r26 was pretty much gone though even with the multimeter u couldnt tell what it was, but the good news is that its all working great. No complications or anything (accept the capacitor being taller than the one that was on the board) but I just turned the heatsink that was in the way around, made it harder to put the clips that hold the transistors against the "heatsink" but i managed to make it work. they sound brand new now, everything just seems to be a little bit ...crisper sounding I guess. I didnt really realize it till now that it was kinda starting to sound not as good as when I first heard them, but now I know why I guess lol. Good to know that spending a few dollars can make a $300 pair of speakers sound like new again Below are some links to the pictures I took during the fixing process. They arent very good because they're take'n with my camera phone: http://smadoc.textamerica.com/?r=1882376 http://smadoc.textamerica.com/?r=1882377 http://smadoc.textamerica.com/?r=1882379 Anyone replacing their resistors I would recomend putting the resistor(s) up higher just so they arent close to the board, and they'll get better airflow around them so it wont "hotspot" underneith it. Dont know if it'll make any differance in the life span of the resistor or make it work any better but it couldnt hurt I guess I'd like to thank everone that helped, other wise I would have had to buy a new set of speakers, which wouldnt be bad for klipsch, but why waste a good system just because of 2 or 3 dead parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 That's great! Another thing saved from the landfill! Have you tried anything else with your 4.1s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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