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High Gloss Lacquered MDF?


aviserated

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You could send them to me, but I am way up north. Too much $$ shipping. OTOH, you could seek out the resources of a cabinet finishing shop, or an auto body shop. That would be the most efficent way of finishing them.

Fyi analogman, with a high pressure dinosaur spray gun > 50-55 psi, over 75% of the material is lost as over and off spray. Out of every gallon sprayed, only a quart ends up on what you spray. I have an HVLP sata jet, which has a transfer efficiency closer to 78%, which means that I get a lot more paint on, with a lot less overspray.

What do you want to kill next? Strike a stake through the heart of the evil 2-stroke weed whackers? Does your wife use hairspray? If she does, then we might have to call the EPA. Regardless of the vehicle, solvents still end up in the atmosphere.

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Ah yes, the various merits of methods are always topical, and not always applicable; I guess it's "picking bones" at this point. I was referring to wasted material as "that which has dried and would now be removed/remain", where you meant "that which is sprayed and unrecovered". Gotcha.

Spray cans are a fine alternative to those who do not have the ability and/or specialized tools to do otherwise. Ideal? Certainly not - but I'd rather lose material from overspray than deal with bubbles from using a roller. Yecch!

Popbumper

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On 1/26/2005 9:35:26 PM michael hurd wrote:

Automotive primer won't flow? Geez, either you don't know how to reduce the material, have the wrong spray gun, or incorrect pressures. I refinish automobiles, and primered quite a bit of mdf with a two-component urethane primer surfacer. You can lay it down just as nice on mdf, so smooth that you just have to knock it down with 600 grit before finishing with a urethane topcoat.

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This makes perfect sense. Plus the black primer will show the MDF when you have sanded too far. Can you give us a detailed list of what is needed and steps involved to achieve a polished high gloss topcoat on MDF using primer surfacer and top coat lacquer. Thanks

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On 1/27/2005 2:17:49 PM michael hurd wrote:

You could send them to me, but I am way up north. Too much $$ shipping. OTOH, you could seek out the resources of a cabinet finishing shop, or an auto body shop. That would be the most efficent way of finishing them.

Fyi analogman, with a high pressure dinosaur spray gun > 50-55 psi, over 75% of the material is lost as over and off spray. Out of every gallon sprayed, only a quart ends up on what you spray. I have an HVLP sata jet, which has a transfer efficiency closer to 78%, which means that I get a lot more paint on, with a lot less overspray.

What do you want to kill next? Strike a stake through the heart of the evil 2-stroke weed whackers? Does your wife use hairspray? If she does, then we might have to call the EPA. Regardless of the vehicle, solvents still end up in the atmosphere.

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You should really work on your reading comprehension skills. Thanks for reiterating my point on overspray. I think you need to change the cartridge in your respirator as well.

Binks and DeVilbiss,

Analogman

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On 1/27/2005 3:42:09 PM popbumper wrote:

Ah yes, the various merits of methods are always topical, and not always applicable; I guess it's "picking bones" at this point. I was referring to wasted material as "that which has dried and would now be removed/remain", where you meant "that which is sprayed and unrecovered". Gotcha.

Spray cans are a fine alternative to those who do not have the ability and/or specialized tools to do otherwise. Ideal? Certainly not - but I'd rather lose material from overspray than deal with bubbles from using a roller. Yecch!

Popbumper

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Thank you much for READING my words and for the INTELLIGENT responses. 2.gif

Regards,

Analogman

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Any suggestions on techniques to achieve "spray gun" finish using a brush?

(paint types, brushes, primers, sanding, etc.).

I have a nice old desk that was chemically "dip stripped" years ago. It's residing in a room on

the second floor, too heavy to move. I do not want to spray it in the room either, I'll end up getting more paint on the walls and floor than the desk.

I'm not looking for a quick way either, I'm patient.

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On 1/27/2005 8:14:44 PM John Warren wrote:

Any suggestions on techniques to achieve "spray gun" finish using a brush?

(paint types, brushes, primers, sanding, etc.).

I have a nice old desk that was chemically "dip stripped" years ago. It's residing in a room on

the second floor, too heavy to move. I do not want to spray it in the room either, I'll end up getting more paint on the walls and floor than the desk.

I'm not looking for a quick way either, I'm patient.

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What's it made of. I'm sure if I make a suggestion you'll get plenty of advice! 2.gif2.gif

Regards,

Analogman

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