Jump to content

Do Mcintosh Solid State Amps sound/work good w Klipschorns


GregJD

Recommended Posts

Well, I certainly wouldn't put it like Erik (though I guess one is meant to read between the lines 9.gif ), but once I switched to Khorns I became more and more dissatisfied with my 2105/C29 combo. Sure, power there was more than enough, clear and transparent the sound was as well, but somehow I found the top end a bit too hot for my liking. So if McIntosh and Khorns (and here comes my definite YES) I'd rather choose tubes. But of course listening habits and preferences are very much individual choices 2.gif .

Wolfram

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One is absolutely meant to read between the lines, since the statement I made couldn't be more incorrect, false, misleading -- and essentially unfair. The premise I have tried to convey on so many different occasions, has to do with what for me is a fundamental element of enjoying music at home: That we must feel free to choose what sounds best on an individual basis. I have built and repaired Welborne Labs Moondogs, the Moth Audio Si2A3, Welborne Labs DRD 2A3 and 45 monoblocks, three Transcendent Sound OTL amps, Wright 2A3 monoblocks (wonderful-sounding single-ended amps!), etc. And I enjoy all of them. This doesn't mean they all sound the same, because they certainly don't. It means that I don't look or perceive their individual differences as 'bad' or 'good,' but rather that they each can be very satisfying in their own way. The concept that the means by which a component changes AC from the wall socket into the DC needed by a particular circuit must also be vacuum-tube-derived has been another point of sometimes very strong contention. I've heard great sounding examples of both solid and hollow state rectification, and what sounds subjectively best in one circuit might not in another. The Transcendent Grounded Grid and SE OTL both use solid state rectifiers, as do, if I'm not mistaken, some (perhaps all?) Tenor Audio OTLs that cost many, many times the cost of the Transcendent amps. I also think a solid state bridge rectifier might be extremely good in the Welborne Labs Moondogs! That doesn't make me 'right' in an absolute sense about that, but it might be 'right' for me -- as is a vacuum tube rectifier 'right' for whomever happens to prefer its sound over the solid state option. I have also very seriously considered buying the SS plug-in replacment for 5 volt rectifiers for the 5AR4, 5Y3, etc. family of rectifiers in my Horus amps. Small changes would be good to make, including a standby switch to allow tube filaments to warm before hitting B+, but it might sound very good. And it might not, in which case the rectifier duties can be handed back to the glowing bulb.

The Teac tripath digital amp is simply a wonderful amp, regardless of cost, and regardless of how it happens to amplify the signal given to it -- which is not by means of thermionic emission. After much building and repairing of vacuum tube equipment, I suspect I have just gotten to the point where what ultimately matters to me (which may be different for others, and I respect that)is the sound that comes out. I don't care about the type of connectors, binding posts, wire used in the Diamond Back or Valhalla interconnect, or anything else that usually just ends up costing a huge amount of money.

What matters, ONLY, is what we discover that sounds best to our very own ears. This doesn't mean others can't offer opionions, because we do that on a daily basis here. I just really hits me the wrong way when what one person happens to really enjoy or becomes excited about is knocked out of the sky by someone who might not hear things the same way. There is a name for that sort of state of affairs, and it doesn't have much to do with respect for individual preferences, likes, or indeed dislikes.

Just for fun, I recently bought a $25 stereo transistor amp that has the physical characteristics of a cheap, plastic department store toy. It also sounds really good with our Klipsch Heritage speakers.

Erik

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Q-man is right! I have 300 watts per side available on the mains and when the cannonade starts in "Master and Commander" or the gunfight in "Open Range" starts peaking the meters (I generally make a rapid adjustment to the volume to about 200 watts so hopefully nothing fries!).

But MAN, its FUN! The floor actually seems to ripple.

DM2.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...