Which is the better option accoustically

[m00n]

Ya know, if you went with what you drew in the picture, you could totally get rid of the tapered array crossover (because the woofers will be close enough together). There might be a slight narrowing of the polar response, but this would be good in your situation (where in your small room high directivity is a must). I bet Dean would be dying to get a hold of those crossovers []

Speaking of your room, have you gotten around to any new acoustical treatments? I was thinking the RPG Skyline diffusors would go great on your cieling. I bet it'd really help open up your sound.

Btw, why don't you do both approaches? Flush mount the speaker in the wall AND build a new cabinet. That'll make the depth of the speaker a little less critical and you'd get the best of both worlds.

I dunno man. I could not get the correct dimensions. If I had a set of dimensions that were CORRECT, I would go for it. Well most likley.

Wall treatment? No reason in doing that until I get my surrounds done. Once I'm done with my surrounds, I will get back into that.

And yes, if I decided to build my own cabs, yes, that would be ideal.

[m00n]

Why on earth would someone use a rear-ported speaker in such a manner? I NEVER would have suspected that.

Seems like EXACTLY the wrong tool for the job.

DM

I like RC7s. I demo'd RC7s vs RB75s, there was no contest in my opinion, RC7s won that battle. I realize that I'm forcing a square peg into a round hole. But, I've been going agaist the grain all along, why stop now. []

[sivadselim]

just wondering, do you flip the horns 90 degrees or not?

[D-MAN]

I like RC7s. I demo'd RC7s vs RB75s, there was no contest in my opinion, RC7s won that battle. I realize that I'm forcing a square peg into a round hole. But, I've been going agaist the grain all along, why stop now. []

If you've got your heart set on it, then by all means - proceed!

Never "settle".

DM

[DrWho]

Hey m00n...what angle would the speakers need to fire down at? I wrote

a spread sheet to force certain ratios and then all I gotta do is play

with them until I get the desired volume (which comes very close to

2000cubic internal inches...assuming the RC-7 is made out of 3/4"

wood). I need the angle that would be between D and the front panel on

the drawing you gave (I designed a simpler cabinet, but it will be the

same angle). Btw, how deep do the horns and ports go? With a 30 degree

angle it might get a bit tight on the tweeter, but the dimensions are

easy whole numbers (comes to within a percent or two of the stock

internal volume....not something that will be noticeable).

[m00n]

DrWho

I sure hope you didn't spend too much time on that, I'm still not sure on which way I will go. I would feel bad if you spent a lot of time on it and I didn't end up building my own boxes. [:$]

At any rate, 60 degrees is what I'm figuring on with the RC7s.

[DrWho]

lol, it took 5 minutes (if that)...and man that is a steep angle. you'd prob be better off with a triangle, lol []

[dragonfyr]

It may not be a desired option, but didn't another just face a similar issue with the potential for 'simply' relocating the port to face forward (or even to the side)? Seems like this would solve a bunch of issues here.

[m00n]

lol, it took 5 minutes (if that)...and man that is a steep angle. you'd prob be better off with a triangle, lol []

Not really if you figure 90deg is straight up and down, take 30degs back from that. I know it seems like a lot, but if you seen what I have to work with you would understand why.

[m00n]

It may not be a desired option, but didn't another just face a similar issue with the potential for 'simply' relocating the port to face forward (or even to the side)? Seems like this would solve a bunch of issues here.

If I was to do that I would simply build new cabs. I would not want to rip into the exisiting RC7 cabinets.

[DrWho]

lol, it took 5 minutes (if

that)...and man that is a steep angle. you'd prob be better off with a

triangle, lol []

Not really if you figure 90deg is

straight up and down, take 30degs back from that. I know it seems like

a lot, but if you seen what I have to work with you would understand

why.

that's way more doable (and in fact the angle I tested the design

with...I'll post a pic with the sides labled and the dimensions for ya

when i have more time []

[m00n]

Right on... You know the hardest part about this is going to be getting the pattern around the drivers. They are not perfectly round. [*-)][8-)]

[DrWho]

Ok, I ended up going with your drawing because I wasn't thinking about

the depth of the drivers in my other plan...do you know about how deep

the horn driver goes and how fat it is on the magnet end? Same thing

for the woofers...it might be a really tight fit.

wow...the auto resizing on the forum makes it real hard to read (so click on the picture)

[m00n]

DrWho

Thanks for the drawing. However, I think I'm going to need a bit more height. The drivers and horn are both roughly 8"s. So, it seems to me I would need to have at least 18" inside to inside of the cab for both width and height. And to make the box any thinner may not work either as you have to take into account the debth of the drivers and horn. I may have to either make a front ported RC7 replica or keep with my original design.

HOWEVER, on the front ported RC7, where to put the ports? There is no room for the ports. Would have to make the RC7 longer. Now, if that were to occour, can the ports be immediatly next to each other?

I'm really beginning to think my best option is to build the cubbies behind the RC7s.

[DrWho]

Another option would be to make the cabinet bigger, but seal off the HF

section (basically specifying the volume behind the woofers). Putting

the ports right next to each other will be fine, just make sure that

they're at least one port diameter from any internal surface (like the

sides of the cabinet). Btw, those dimensions are the internal

dimensions...so you've got an extra 0.75" around ever edge for the lips

to fit over.