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how should i wire my RF-5


grimth

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I have a dennon 2106 reciver and RF 5 's for my fronts would any one know if i were to wire the high and low to A front (high) B front (low) would i get better sound. right now it is wired through A front and im using to jumpers between the high and low.

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I'd just leave the jumper on the speakers.If you have a problem w/the

sound its not the 5's or cables,its the source and avr.I had my 5s

hooked to an HK 630 and it sounded great.I had a B&K 150 wattx2 amp

sittin' right next to it not even plugged,I just didn't need it.

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I have a dennon 2106 reciver and RF 5 's for my fronts would any one know if i were to wire the high and low to A front (high) B front (low) would i get better sound. right now it is wired through A front and im using to jumpers between the high and low.

if you want to bi-amp, you need to use the "zone 2/surround back" channels along with your B mains. the manual explains this.

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I'd just leave the jumper on the speakers.If you have a problem w/the sound its not the 5's or cables,its the source and avr.I had my 5s hooked to an HK 630 and it sounded great.I had a B&K 150 wattx2 amp sittin' right next to it not even plugged,I just didn't need it.

I agree. Just leave the jumper on and use them for your front L/R. I have RF5's with an RC35 center - the sound qualtiy is outstanding! The receiver I use (sony) was purchased with the opinion that I was not looking for HT sound as my first choice (more 2 channel listening) but I have since been VERY pleasantly suprised with the results. Also tried a friend's Denon 3803 - the results were even better! Enjoy the RF5s - an under appreciated Reference model that is outstanding!

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Just use the jumpers. You're not likely to see an improvement bi-amping

with a receiver. The separation of the HF & LF sections is really

intended for bi-wiring, where you run 2 pair of speaker cables from the

pos & neg binding posts on your amp and connect one pair to your HF

& another to your LF. The idea is more cable = pass more current.

IMO as long as your using a decent gauge wire, there not really

anything to be gained by this though.

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Just use the jumpers. You're not likely to see an improvement bi-amping with a receiver. The separation of the HF & LF sections is really intended for bi-wiring, where you run 2 pair of speaker cables from the pos & neg binding posts on your amp and connect one pair to your HF & another to your LF. The idea is more cable = pass more current. IMO as long as your using a decent gauge wire, there not really anything to be gained by this though.

What the original poster describes IS a bi-wire connection, not a bi-amp. On most receivers, the A/B channels share the same 2 front R+L amps (not 4).

grimth, you can connect to the A/B binding posts as you describe, but all it does is make the bi-wire connection easier at the amp end.

If you want to passively bi-amp, you must do what JayL describes. With a passive bi-amp you'll get the mystical benefits of bi-wiring (if there are any) and you'll, theoretically, increase the amount of total power you're providing to your front speakers (increased headroom). However, bi-amping with unused channels in a receiver is complicated by the fact that the amps in a receiver, although separate, share the same power supply. The more amps you run off the single power supply in a receiver, the less likely you are to be delivering the power that each amp is actually rated to each channel. So, I would not passively bi-amp with your receiver.

However, if you DO want to bi-wire your speakers and you want use the binding posts for A and B to help facilitate bi-wiring, then what you describe is OK.

Whether you get a "better sound" bi-wiring RF5s is a whole other discussion.

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am I a total loss?

I thought that the additional connection on the speakers is for "Bi-Wiring" ONLY (running a pair of speaker wires from the reciever to the speaker)

if so, it would be all but impossible to "Bi-Amp" the speakers without 'opening-them-up"

Please someone, set me straight...

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am I a total loss?

I thought that the additional connection on the speakers is for "Bi-Wiring" ONLY (running a pair of speaker wires from the reciever to the speaker)

if so, it would be all but impossible to "Bi-Amp" the speakers without 'opening-them-up"

Please someone, set me straight...

well, there's passive bi-amping and active bi-amping

passive bi-amping = marginal benefits

active bi-amping = definite benefits

Passive bi-amping doesn't bypass the speakers' internal crossovers. The amps are still sent and have to amplify a full-range, uncrossed signal. All it really does is (theoretically) sum the amplifier power being sent to the speaker. It's basically bi-wiring with 4 amps (2 per channel), if you really want to get down to it.

In an active bi-amp, the output signal is crossed-over by adjustable, external crossovers prior to amplification so that each amp only amplifies either the HF or LF. And yes, the speakers' internal crossovers are bypassed.

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...In an active bi-amp, the output signal is crossed-over by adjustable, external crossovers prior to amplification so that each amp only amplifies either the HF or LF. And yes, the speakers' internal crossovers are bypassed.

Yep, that there is the only form of "Bi-Amping" that I was aware of...

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