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THX120 sub placement question


Tom Adams

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cost of a mdf board is $22 at lowes for a 4X8 sheet.

A good router is a dewalt 200 on amazon.

bits etc 100 dollars.

Drill most people already have one

I suggest the 50 dollar jasper jig for making circles with the router

Tablesaw or a good circular saw

Clamps

paint/stain and gloss

veneer if want to

no more than 500 dollars if you have most of the tools

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Thanks guys for all your help with this. I'm really getting the DIY bug. Is that a bad thing?? [:)]

Of course not...and I see you already found that dayton titanic thread [;)]

Because you have way more funds and room to work with, I would wait until all the DIY drivers have come out and see what kind of overkill system you can come up with. Right now the dayton is the best bang for the buck, but I know AES should be coming out with a woofer soon that should demolish everything.

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cost of a mdf board is $22 at lowes for a 4X8 sheet.

A good router is a dewalt 200 on amazon. Check - already have one.

bits etc 100 dollars. Check - already have them.

Drill most people already have one. Check - already have one (well 2 if you count the drill press).

I suggest the 50 dollar jasper jig for making circles with the router. Need one.

Tablesaw or a good circular saw. Check - have both of them.

Clamps. Uhhhh....need more.

paint/stain and gloss. Easy to get

veneer if want to. Nah - sub needs to be black

no more than 500 dollars if you have most of the tools

Looks like I'm on the DIY road. [:)]

Tom

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drill presses are a very good thing to have. I don't have the luxury or room to have one.

Jasper Jig is on partsexpress.com

Tablesaw much better than circular saw yet I had no room. Also for MDF

it is advisable to have a 60 teeth or so carbide because mdf and the

glue eats up regular steel. It will burn and smoke if you don't keep

the blade clean (kerf blades are a good way to prevent it)

I did fine with 4 36 inch clamps. Bigger is better atleast in clamps

since a big one can step down. But a small one cannot step up.

As for veneer and subs need to be black I hear you. How about a piano

type black? I was going to first stain the wood with an aneyline dye so

when or if they get scratched they will not be noticable. Then add some

nice black enamel paint. And then finish with a couple coats of

polyurethane. Sanding and using an airgun all the way. Also the last

gloss, hit it up to 12000 grit sandpaper to make that super smooth

finish [:D]

If you want void free baltic birch is sold in 5x5 at 50 dollars a

piece. Its alot more for half the size your getting for mdf. But some

people like real wood as opposed to fake. Make sure your mdf is a white

yellowish pine looking piece (mine was labled from Georgia Pacific). I

went to homedepot and saw what they claim was mdf which was the color

of the cheap fiberboard they use to hang hooks in stores. That is a

much lower grade and cheaper wood. That really is like scraps and such

whenever a tree falls over and they chip it with that machine.Also look

into buying Titebond type III woodglue. I like that its super strong.

And hurricane nuts from parts express to hold the machine screws to

your subwoofers.

Time is the biggest factor!

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Tom, do you think you could swing 15 cubic feet per side? If you

originally had your cornwalls 3 feet from the rear wall, that's about a

3x3x3 area? (so 18 cubic feet?). The reason I ask is because you could

go with a pair of the new Ascendant Audio Arsenal 15's. With no EQ an

F3 of 16Hz and a pair of them will do over 120dB.

The best part is the drivers are only $215 each! $500 in drivers leaves

you a lot of money for the enclosure and amplifier. And we could

totally go ported with such an arrangement because the cabinets are

large enough for it.

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Due to how my HT is configured, it's impractical to place (2) THX120's along the front wall. However, I could stack them vertically in the corner where my KSW-15 currently resides. Would this be acceptable or would there be issues?

TIA.

Tom

Be side my trinty to compare[;)]
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Tom, do you think you could swing 15 cubic feet per side? If you originally had your cornwalls 3 feet from the rear wall, that's about a 3x3x3 area? (so 18 cubic feet?). The reason I ask is because you could go with a pair of the new Ascendant Audio Arsenal 15's. With no EQ an F3 of 16Hz and a pair of them will do over 120dB.

The best part is the drivers are only $215 each! $500 in drivers leaves you a lot of money for the enclosure and amplifier. And we could totally go ported with such an arrangement because the cabinets are large enough for it.

Keep talking....I'm all ears. [:)]

BTW.....am I losing it?? How does 3x3x3 = 18 cubic feet??

You DO realize that you're gonna have to generate some kinda build plans for me, right? [:)]

Oh - and let me check to see if I can accomodate boxes that size.

Tom

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What about a IB for Tom??? I know nothing about them except they dig deeper than anything else

And don't think for a moment that I haven't thought about an IB too. [:)]

My side walls have a good size cavity behind them that run the length of the room and open into the attic. Maybe I'll take some shots of what I'm talking about and post them.

So how do you know where to place an IB sub or does it matter??

Tom

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Oh wow....I never was good at math in my head. I'm a visual kind of guy

(photographic memory and all that annoying crap) and I was doing 3x3 =

9 which looks like an inverted 6 and then multiplying 6x3 instead of

9x3.

Wow, with 27 cubic feet you're talking a huge subwoofer cabinet, heh heh heh [H]

It would be interesting to know what your IB options are and yes

placement does matter. I never suggested it cuz the angle of your

cieling led me to believe you were already in the attic...But ya,

sketch out some diagrams of your attic space in relation to the room

and listening position yadda yadda and we'll have to see if it's a

valid option.

But of the available "IB subs" out there, you would still get lower

extension and more SPL with a huge ported cabinet...but one thing we

can do is turn your "IB space" into a huge cabinet and port it. I think

we'll be able to push an F3 of 10Hz (anechoic)....

You realize we are talking crazy insane way over the top subwoofer

right? And the best part is its still gonna cost you less than the best

sub on the market [:D]

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First of all......I measured what I felt I could accomodate (cabinet wise) behind my Corns and the most I can accept would be 2' wide by 3' high by 2' deep. Not sure what that gets me but I'm sure you'll tell me. [:)]

As for the IB, here's some shot of my actual attic. My HT room resides over the garage. And at the back of the room there is a door that leads into the actual attic.

Tom

post-4338-1381928109539_thumb.jpg

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And finally.....the cavity that runs the length of the room. That box looking thing is the equipment rack. Man......if I had a dollar for every time I've called into that space. In fact, you'll notice that I've put flooring down to make things more comfortable. HA - and if ya look real close you can see a light fixture I've installed.

post-4338-13819281108186_thumb.jpg

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