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DIY Sub Possibility...


Indyjeep

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Well that RLP was the one I was originaly looking at but the Arsenal, is cheaper and goes lower.

Now Im curious, can I use my reciever as the x-over? And what advantages will an EQ have on my overall sound quality. I looked at the new model but it is almost double the price. Will that Behringer Parametric EQ work with what Im doing? I think I will put the 12" Aresenal in an 7 Cu. Ft box, ported. Not sure what to tune it too yet. Got to play with it some more.

Thanks for all the help.

Adam

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Soundsplinter subwoofers though impressive in xmax and such are not quite the go getters for home theaters. The Qtc is way to high fo home theaters without a redicoulous enclosure (Try 20 cubic feet, most fridges start there) and don't even try porting or pr the sucker.

They will not hit low without massive enclosures.

The one he was talking about has a QTS of 0.219.... thats lower than any aforementioned subwoofer in this thread.

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And you guys, in regards to subwoofers specially designed for cars vs home theater.. there is more myth than fact. The soundsplinter drivers are very similar to the ones in SVS subs. JL audio uses the same drivers in their home theater line as their car line... I could give many examples, but It all comes down to how you design the box for your sub.





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soundsplinter and svs use the same company to make speakers, TC Sounds

but that is all that is the same. Remember they are a oem company, they

build to the specs the customer wants. The RL-P12 needs to be vented or

it will suffer from a farly large gap in the low range. I believe the

f3 was 60 hertz? It needs to be vented in order to have depth and spl.

Even James Bond's Q couldn't make a subwoofer to that defies the laws

of physics.

JL uses the 13w7 but modified differently in the home theaters. Those

speakers are similiar yet different to the car ones. They first of all

use a sealed since they cannot port it without it being ported way to

high or a one noter. The JL design calles for a bend slot loader. Also

they have to heavily eq the subwoofer to make it flat.

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More myth than fact? lol

http://basszone.stryke.com/deonspace/cabin.html

(Might I point out the Regal and Escort transfer functions that show over 40dB of gain at 20Hz....)

And before disregarding the source I would suggest looking at the name of that very well known engineer...

Believe it or not, engineers don't just randomly throw together the parts in the drivers and then hope for the best. They actually consider the end application and try to optimize for constraints like cabinet size, desired F3 and SPL requirements (which dictate the suspension, magnetic flux, power handling, excursion needs, etc etc... of the driver).

To argue that all car audio subs can work in a home setting is to argue that all the driver optimizations are the same...Nobody is saying a car audio sub couldn't work in the home, but you can't ignore the fact that the design considerations are far different. (typically a car audio situation is power handling limited whereas you are excursion limited in the home).

I'm yet to see a car audio sub that provides more bang for the buck....of all the drivers mentioned in this thread, the soundsplinter will have the worst performance by a huge margin. But don't take my word for it, we can all model it for ourselves for free. Don't like models? Then let's go build all of them and do some side by side comparisons and measurements all in the name of science. But Thiele and Small (and PWK) all did that brain work for us...

Btw, a low QTS with a very high F3 isn't going to outperform a high QTS system with a much lower F3. Heck, the sound splinter doesn't even displace as much air...

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JL uses the 13w7 but modified differently in the home theaters. Those

speakers are similiar yet different to the car ones. They first of all

use a sealed since they cannot port it without it being ported way to

high or a one noter. The JL design calles for a bend slot loader. Also

they have to heavily eq the subwoofer to make it flat.

And the sacrifice there is maxSPL. It all comes back to Hoffman's Iron Law.

I would suggest some googling of "cabin gain" and "hoffman's iron law" and heck, "subwoofer design" lol

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its just like automobile racing. I remember a great read, Skip Barber

Racing Book I forgot the exact title. It reminds you over and over

about the math of going fast. How compromises of brake, throttle,

steering, turn radius are all set in to get the best clock time which

does not always mean the best top speed but the best average top speed.

As for the subwoofer, when you eq you lose spl is a given. And that why the gathom uses two jl 13w7 but also cost $11000

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Ordered the Arsenal 12, and they said will ship on Friday. Also I changed my mind on the amp. Im gonna go with something a little bit smaller, think the A500 from Behringer. At 4 Ohms it will put out 230x 2 channels or 500w at 8 ohms bridged. So that should work for now, I might upgrade later. Thanks for the help on all that. Now I just gotta start building the box and designing it. Yay....

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Its here, Woohoo Delivered 11:52 AM, Gotta go to class now, but later Ill take pics, and ill try it in my car real quick just cuz I already have a 12" in there now. See how it sounds compared to my Alpine Type R. Than get some wood and get started making the enclosure,

Woohoo

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