Remotia

ok im just trying to help, looks i got shot down.. Go ahead a model all you want. I'll stick with real life measurements.

And you guys, in regards to subwoofers specially designed for cars vs home theater.. there is more myth than fact. The soundsplinter drivers are very similar to the ones in SVS subs. JL audio uses the same drivers in their home theater line as their car line... I could give many examples, but It all comes down to how you design the box for your sub.

The one he was talking about has a QTS of 0.219.... thats lower than any aforementioned subwoofer in this thread.

You can use the rsx-4's no problem. It wont hurt them. The 4's do sound better than the 3's, but then again, so do the 5's go with the 5's.

may I add one more suggestion for the woofer. http://www.soundsplinter.com/rlp12_premium_series_12_inch_DIY_subwoofer_information.html

I hate to ask the question, but you're ipods hd may be failing. I'm not sure if apple has a utility to test it, but you could try doing a long format in windows and if that halts, you know there is a problem.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> backup your music obviously.

you can just try the headphone input then you can set the igroove to the lowest volume, then just lower the ipod volume too.

no, you didnt rever to Thiele, Small, and Nousainne , you reverd to winISD which sucks.

I dont care how good that software is, you cant just plug in TS parameters to determine a fq response of a driver. You dont even know to what degree of uncertainty the TS parameters are! Futhermore, they dont tell the whole story. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> This whole thread is asinine, is anyone here even a freaking audio engineer, THOUGHT SO.

imo, get the subs away from the corners and place them right next to each other center below the screen. This does two things. Helps reduce a potential corner loaded frequency peak but more importantly, it will allow the subwoofers to be in phase throughout the entire room without comprising localization of either side of the room.

Yep, this happened to one of my subwoofers, my VC overheated and it scraps on the side of the magnet. This was in conjunctin with the amp blowing too! Talk about overdriving a sub! Lucky for me it was all under warranty (BTW it was NOT a klipsch sub )

2-main ways: too much heat on the vc, which would have been unlikely in your case because you only had it loud for a very short time. or, mechanical damage. The vc slams into he back of the magnet and something gets bend or forces the cone too far forward and tears the suspension or worse, the vc rips right through the cone... thats always funny too.

You can mount the rears into the wall like this: and of course, you can do the same for the fronts and the subs

expect great things from this driver. http://www.tcsounds.com/Images/LM_news.pdf<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Its not offically out, but Eclipse is already adopting the technology and Im damn sure SVS will change at least their Ultra woofers very soon. With the new voice coil the new driver is able to increase the SPL by about 6+ dB while maintaining the same THD - yes, very impresssive.

no DrWho, it would only be a "shockwave" if your subwoofers were moving at about 760 mph at you.... in which case.. get teh **** out the way! http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=speed+of+sound&btnG=Search

WOW, the dollar has fallen in value.

I have heard the 54's, my only complaint is the lack of bass, but they have lots of presence and soundstage and incredible volume. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

I have owned both, the RW-12 is a little deeper and cleaner, also has more features and its certainly prettier to look at, but he Sub-12 has more output and slam.

It's probably fine, turn it up loud again to see if the bass is still working.

Forget it, like i said, xm BLOWS! I just returned my antenna yesterady and canceled the account. I had high expectations. For a car, xm is one thing, but when you're at home you cn just as eaily connect the denon to a PC and get streaming radio. This is what i do, and its FAR better quality, more selection, and its free unles you count your isp bill.

I just picked up an AVR 2106 for $420 (i got hooked up) I absolutely love it! Im powering some energy c-3s at the moment. Its got plenty of power (conservite 100watts per channel and all the lastest features you would expect from denon included 6 channel analong input. The only major draw back is the lack of hdmi, but if you can live w/o it, the 2106 has greate value considering the next step up with the 1400 dollar 3806 or if you wait a while, the $1100 2807. The only thing I hate about is the xm radio.. I was entirely disappointed with the quality of XM. It flat out sucks. It has even lower quality than regular radio that comes in clear.

I work for a store like BB (I wont say the same) I try extremely hard, and I am almost always rewarded. Last week I kid you not, I got a 500 dollar tip for helping someone out with some home theater questions. Yes, 500 bucks! I do get customers like you said but I dont waste my time. I say the same thing every time: Does you're internet store have to pay for this building or my time? No. Does your internet store provide in person customer service? no. Does your internet store have a full credit no question return policy with free shipping? no. Can you buy something from the internet store today and have it in your hand in less than 10 minutes? no.

in short, it makes no difference. Just use one or the other (DO NOT SPLIT) But go for the sub-12

That line of logic is exactly why audiophiles fail to realize what they may have... may not be the best even if its more expensive and more massive..... check out this video: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6514168251893889573&q=ariel+atom A 4cylinder honda civic v-tec supercharged engine bests all supercars with ease.