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ANOTHER DIY SUB POST!!!


brennyE

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hi all. I want to start a diy sub project (mainly because ive heard all the good things about other people end results) I was thinking about doing a downfiring tube design( ala fake svs ) to cut out most of the craftmanship involved(is this a good idea or will it sound absalutly sh!t??). I was also wondering if the fostex FW305 12" woofer found on madisound would do the job as a music subwoofer for this enclosure, because the only things I can make sense of on its spec sheet is its freq response, Fs, impedance, and sensitivity... all the rest of it may as well be written in japanese.....

so if anyone at all could give a first time diyer any opinions, help, or criticism???

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Actually tube subs are a good design because tubes are circles which

are strong so no bracing. Actually before the tumult was out I was

seriously considering buying a aes av12 and doing a tube. You can do it

quite cheap with a sonotube and doing the endcaps or I was proposing

using a seriously thick papertube (Think tube core that they use to

roll carpet or so) they make them in various shapes too. Just they look

a little spaceshippy or waterheaterish. Also you can veneer it to make

it look nice ala SVS SS (Think maple in the golden creme) But I don't

know the specs of that woofer but DrWho will come in to say something,

I have esp lol

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well since this is my first project i was thinking of going for an external amp and just running the wires through little holes.. and also because of my little experience i was thinking of using sealed method because that would probably leave less room for error.

hehe i really like the idea of not having to brace it!

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porting on a tube amp is pretty easy though, you just make a hole on

the top and plop a port into it. Thought the port measurement prior to

needs to be right, not just any port but you need a proper length and

width which we can help you.

Also you wouldn't want to have little holes for the wire since you

really do want you sub to be as airtight or intended airtight (ports

are intentional) as possible so think about binding posts. Drill two

holes and then get the wire and solder (opps put the nut in prior to

soldering) it to the binding post, screw it in done.

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well if someone gives my enclosure size and port length I would be more than happy to port the sub. (ive never owned a sealed sub because ive always loved the punch of ported subs) that binding post idea sound good to me also. should i be able to get al the appropriate parts of madisound? ie binding post, ports etc etc?

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hmm the sad thing is no one around where i live sells such audio components, and i have no idea where i could get them. Is there any good Australian websites that i could get these things from (including driver maybe?) although i seriously doubt it. sometimes i just wish i lived in america!

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I like to use Flat piston woofers, they are hard to find lately, I like to use the older precision power woofers rated at 4 ohms twice the output with less input, I also use a vented inclosure, the vent was about 14 inches wide and about 20 deep, takes little power to push it and I broke 2 windows in my house, I had to do alot of internal bracing because of vibrations. sound teriffic I have it on the lowest crossover setting because its so damn loud, it kicks in around 50 hrz and shit start falling off the wall, hell we were watching desperate housewives and a warbbling tone came on and everyone thought it was an earthquake my roomates girlfriend started freaking out.

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Is there any good Australian websites that i

could get these things from (including driver maybe?) although i

seriously doubt it. sometimes i just wish i lived in america!

I couple i've seen posted...

http://www.acousticconcepts.com.au/

http://www.advanceae.com.au

http://www.jaycar.com.au

Then you got US guys like AcousticElegance and Acoustic-Visions who will

ship to oz... at a price. BTW, PartsExpress doesn't ship

economically to Canada either...

ROb

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which reminds me.... Is there any loss in sag of a driver that is

vertical. Kinda like how a tire squats a little on the bottom where the

tire meet the street. I wonder if the weight of the woofer pressing

down on that part of the surround will move the cone in a non linear

way. Since the top is lighter than the bottom (the weight pushing down)

that the lighter top would move quicker than the slightly heavier

bottom? That question also goes with pr. As DrWho said that most cones

are never linear (in regards to the pr debate in the technical

section), I wonder if there is a way to make the cones move as linear

as possible. Just as cars get wheel balances before you mount new tires

heh.

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well im always up for a bit of a budget raise..(im a sucker for spending money) because I really want to do a downfiring cylnder design.. and ive always wondered if side firing subs had pull to the bottom because of weight.. maybe this means that downfiring subs are better for high spls?? very interesting to find out..

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