didyman Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 It is burned and can't read colour code, rendering the powersupply unusable. Can anyone help me find its value? It is placed near the main transformer on the secondary side and acting as a coupler, in series with a 47uF capacitance, to the ground, from one lead of the transformer. Any else board revision could be fine for reference. Thank You! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Is this a 220 V model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotel Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Yes, it is a European model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Sorry, I've got the North American model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
didyman Posted June 12, 2006 Author Share Posted June 12, 2006 Oooouoh! :-) That also should be good! As i mentioned, any other modell should be fine for reference. In Your case, that resistor may be the same or maybe the half of what i need. I will then figure it out from its power handling capacity and some measurements, but without an existing value, i can not start. Would You please read its value? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 Normally, that might be a good idea. However, from what I have seen the 120V and the 220V units are completely different animals internally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
didyman Posted July 3, 2006 Author Share Posted July 3, 2006 I can post a picture about it, if You would like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 Sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
didyman Posted July 4, 2006 Author Share Posted July 4, 2006 Right: As You can see, there are two big capacitor, the rectifier and the whole electronic so easily can be switched to 120V operation, so if the bash number is the same, the resistor also should be the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Hi Didyman, Unfortunately, it does not look anything like the 120V version. The PCB layout doesn't even resemble mine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
didyman Posted July 5, 2006 Author Share Posted July 5, 2006 But anyway, i have to find a value, as i mentioned in my first post, any other version of the board would be fine. R25 can be found on the left-lover side of the main transformer (where the flashlight made the panel a bit unreadable). Your version of PCB holds the same controlling scheme as far as i know, so your panel also have a resistor coupling one of the legs of the transformer to the ground. That resistor is what i need. Please, do a search for it for me! Don't care about "R25" (as it changes over the versions of the panel), just look the legs of the transformer. One leg on the secunder side will be left almost alone, without routed any else than a single resistor and the other leg of the resistor will be routed to power ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftsman Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 Okay, I've looked and this is what I found - I checked every leg of the secondary of the transformer starting from pin 9: Pin 9 connected to a diode which is connected to R27 (820 Ohms 1/2 watt 1%) which is connected to ground. This could be the one since it has two small electrolytic capacitors near by - very similar to what you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmr Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 Hi! Do you already know it's colour code? I can check it for you but I need color code of R23 . Thanks for reply. U can write: bprus1@op.pl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arovuo Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 Didyman, I have exactly the same board revisions than you have ( ProMedia 4.1 ), and my amp just gives muffled sound, even when all volume knobs are at max. The Power supply's R25 seems to run hot, as the PCB is clearly heated around, but not burned. The resistor colors are Brown, black, ??, Silver?, Brown. I am guessing that the resistor is 10 Ohm, 5%, as it measures 9.6 Ohm with multimeter. Typically the resistors burn 'broken', when multimeter would show 'disconnected'. So, I'm assuming that the resistor is still good, but beaten. The same PCB has 6 Electrolyte capacitors, and four of them have gone bad, as I used multimeter to measure the capacitance, which is way less than what they suppose to be. The caps are: (notice the high temp grading) - C19 & C20 : 470uF 200v 85'C - C12 & C13 : 47uF 50v 85'C - C6 : 2200uF 63v 105'C - C7 : 22uF 63v 85'C My plan: 1) Replace all electrolytes, as they tend to wear out, especially if in hot environment. 2) Replace the R25 with more higher power rating resistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arovuo Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 R23 is 1k Ohm Brown, Black, Black, Brown, Brown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehmd Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Could you please tell me the value and watt rating of the resistor R33. This is right next to the big 2 electrolyte cap 470uf 220v and just above R31 Please reply urgently Thanks for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esseeayen Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Hey seems to be that this same board appears in many different BASH pc speakers, my (very old) Creative megaworks speakers seem to have the exact same Indigo 640023 rev1 board in it, It is a 220v (European model) however it seems other components have fried. If anyone can measure what component values are for R16, R17, C11 and D4. These seem to have fried on my board and need repacing however the data on the bill of materials for this board seems to be very hard to get my hands on! here is a picture: Thanks all! -Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptron Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Arovuo, did you remove those components from the circuit before measuring? If not, you're measurents can be way off because you're measuring a lot of things besides the component you have the meter leads across. Sorry, you sound like you know what you're doing but I just thought I'd ask. Didyman, I have exactly the same board revisions than you have ( ProMedia 4.1 ), and my amp just gives muffled sound, even when all volume knobs are at max. The Power supply's R25 seems to run hot, as the PCB is clearly heated around, but not burned. The resistor colors are Brown, black, ??, Silver?, Brown. I am guessing that the resistor is 10 Ohm, 5%, as it measures 9.6 Ohm with multimeter. Typically the resistors burn 'broken', when multimeter would show 'disconnected'. So, I'm assuming that the resistor is still good, but beaten. The same PCB has 6 Electrolyte capacitors, and four of them have gone bad, as I used multimeter to measure the capacitance, which is way less than what they suppose to be. The caps are: (notice the high temp grading) - C19 & C20 : 470uF 200v 85'C - C12 & C13 : 47uF 50v 85'C - C6 : 2200uF 63v 105'C - C7 : 22uF 63v 85'C My plan: 1) Replace all electrolytes, as they tend to wear out, especially if in hot environment. 2) Replace the R25 with more higher power rating resistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammo8600 Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 Hey bro, I have got the same problem with R33.. its totaly burnt and cant figure out its value.. Did you find any help??? Ill appreciate if you could help me out. Regards, AHmed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayh Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 R33 is a is a zero ohm link/ jumper. (resistor with only a black line in the center) Anyone could give the specs or part number for D4 ? It is supposed SIDAC or DIAC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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