damonrpayne Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 I did my 1st layer of mud using the standard joint compound mixed with a little water. At my local hardware store, I then see this Vinyl Spackle which says it dries in only 2 hours. If I was going to pull a marathon day tomorrow and try to mud/sand in the same day, would there be any drawback to applying a layer or two of this in between standard joint compound? No big deal either way, work is progressing fairly well, but I thought some of the drywall gurus might know something of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mas Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 Hmmm... I have put up far more drywall and taped and mudded too many houses in renovation projects in the past than I care to remember. but I honestly cannot recall ever encountering a problem despite whatever products we used - assuming that the prior application was dry. I know you want a definiative answer, and I must admit to not knowing the absolutely correct answer to this, but my suspicion is that if the previous coat is relatively dry, there should be no problem as there should be no interaction. You might give a hardware store, a local drywall source or drywall installation service a call or even a company such as DAP who makes many of the products involved. When you do get an answer, let us know - its a handy bit of info - especially if there are any contraindications! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atleer Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 I'm a home builder down in Texas. You will most definitely NOT have any problems using different products. <> Forexample....When Sheetrock crews "Tape and Float" a house (after"hang"ing it) they will use a joint compound similar to what youmentioned you first used. It is very slow to dry, as you will usuallyneed 1-2 days for it to dry before you can put a layer of "skim" overthe first coat of float over the tape. <>When a sheetrockerdoes "patch" work, they will almost exclusively use "Quick Set". Thisis a compound that is made to dry much more quickly. The benefit isthat you do not have to wait long to then texture and paint a new patchof sheetrock. <> <>The reason a crew would nottypically use "quick set" for a whole house job is because of thematerial costs. Aside from that, as the damon mentioned above, as longas the prior 'mud' is dry, use whatever you want. <> <><>Asfar as the vinyl spackling goes, I assume it is a pre-made mix in atub. I've used similar products before to do "Minor" repairs. I don'tbelieve that using it for your "skim" coat would be your best bet. <> <><><>Goto the hardware store and ask for a "quick set" compound. It will bejust like what you originally used, a powder that you mix with water.<> <><><><>Ifyou would like some more 'tips' on sheetrock, or have more questions,I'll do what I can to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myhamish Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 durabond and windshield washing fluid is quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damonrpayne Posted November 29, 2006 Author Share Posted November 29, 2006 Thanks all, I'm off to see what Home Despot has for quick set compound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damonrpayne Posted November 29, 2006 Author Share Posted November 29, 2006 Doh! The stuff that's not pre-mixed (powder, add water) gives you choices of set times from 20 minutes on up! It actually seems nicer than the pre mixed crap too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
khorn51 Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 Durabound makes 2 types of quick dry joint compound one dry rock hard and is hard to sand but very strong. the other called easysand is well easy to sand. I use the 20 when Im in a hurry but you might find the 45 easyer to deal with.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damonrpayne Posted December 4, 2006 Author Share Posted December 4, 2006 I got easy sand and it really is good to sand. I found that I need at least the 90 minute compound else it starts to set before I'm done applying! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anarchist Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Hi Damon, Doing a lot of this work myself right now - always have. I always just used the bucket stuff and a 6, 8, and 12 inch trowel to spread three coats. With that, some elbow grease and a $20 pole sander from Lowes, you can get walls that rival any custom home builders at a fraction of the cost. I never textured my walls but rather spend the money on paint and applying different effects... sponging, ragging, etc. How much have you spent on your room so far? I would expect thousands less than you were quoted. I am currently redoing an 8X24 room and just finished priming 80 linear feet of wall I had just installed... sanding sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atleer Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 another tip for you DIY'ers. After you have skimmed the last coat, and before you sand, there is an easy way to check your work for any dings, knicks or tears you may have missed. Use a flashlight to scan the entire surface of sheetrock. The light will magnify any deficiencies. This is particlarly important if you are not texturing, or if you are doing a light texture that will not hide all imperfections. Just an fyi... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damonrpayne Posted December 5, 2006 Author Share Posted December 5, 2006 Hi Damon, Doing a lot of this work myself right now - always have. I always just used the bucket stuff and a 6, 8, and 12 inch trowel to spread three coats. With that, some elbow grease and a $20 pole sander from Lowes, you can get walls that rival any custom home builders at a fraction of the cost. I never textured my walls but rather spend the money on paint and applying different effects... sponging, ragging, etc. How much have you spent on your room so far? I would expect thousands less than you were quoted. I am currently redoing an 8X24 room and just finished priming 80 linear feet of wall I had just installed... sanding sucks. I don't mind sanding except for the ceiling. I will be picking up a pole sander today. I'm of much the same mind. If you count wood, insulation, 3 solid core doors, nails, screws, drywall, corner bead, sandpaper, mud, tools, and sheetrock I'm sure I'm around $2,000 still for a 20x25x9 room, with only paint left to buy. Considering that I would have paid $3500 for drywall and at least $3000 for the framing, and who knows what for the painting, I'm not doing too bad. It looks like I'll be finishing the last coats of drywall and texturing this weekend, carpet is tenatively scheduled for Dec 19th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anarchist Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Sanding the damn ceiling in the 8 X 24 now. You get real tired and give your shoulders and arms a helluva workout not to mention how much fun it is to cough up drywall dust for hours. Will be priming and painting this room and the previously mentioned living room and dining room this week. Getting ready to order hardwood floors and tile myself. IF I never sand again, it will be too soon. Of course, in 2007 I will sell this house and build a new one. So framing, drywalling and sanding won't be far off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damonrpayne Posted December 5, 2006 Author Share Posted December 5, 2006 I use a decent nose/mouth mask and I don't cough up drywall, though I do get some in my eyes. My house is brand new so except for a deck/patio project in 2007 my home improvement days are just about for for a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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