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Blown fuses on a Synergy Sub 10


man2316

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I recently moved and just got my theatre system hooked back up, but when I turned everthing on, I noticed the sub wasn't playing. I checked everything out and it turned out I had a blown fuse. No big deal, I went to Radio Shack and bought a pack of four. I put the first one in and turned on the sub... nothing. No sound, no blue light nothing. I checked the fuse again and... blown. I tried the other three fuses to no avail. I can't figure out what is going on. The sub was not damaged in any way during the move. Any ideas as to what might be causing the short? Any help would be appreciated.

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Blowing more than one fuse indicates there are greater problems. if the sub is still under the 2 year warranty to the original owner, take it back to Best Buy and get it repaired.

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  • 3 years later...

My Klipsch Sub 10 blew a fuse the other day as well. I went to Radio Shack and bought a 4pk of 2A 250V fast-blow fuses. Each one of them blew when I put it in the sub.

The sub won't power on, and the red/blue led on the front doesn't light up.

I purchased it in 12/07. Any ideas?

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I was also wondering if I should use another type of fuse. The 'fast blow' fuse I mentioned above is what I've used. I'm not even sure of the amperage and voltage (much less slow or fast blow). There was no mention of the correct fuse to use anywhere online or in the manual.

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The correct fuse type is clearly marked on the amplifier, and in the manual.

(T3.15AL 250V) A very common fuse in stereo equipment, a special time-delay type, do not substitute.

http://www.klipsch.com/images/download/56.aspx

If you replace it and it blows again, it needs servicing. If you can't get the exact fuse, don't replace it, take it to the shop

This advice applies to any fuse problem, anywhere, any time, and with any equipment.

Replace it once, and then take it to the shop. If the fuse looks like WWIII inside (black, bits of fused metal), don't even bother replacing it.

Fuses blow for a reason.

When you replace it one time you are essentially hoping against all hope that you had a 'bad' fuse.

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Thank you for that info. However, the original fuse that came out of the sub has on it T2AL 250VP

I didn't even check the sub itself until you mentioned that it had the fuse type printed on it (oops!). The Sub 10 does clearly have marked that it takes a 2.0A fuse.

Thank you

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"The Sub 10 does clearly have marked that it takes a 2.0A"

Then they must have the wrong link posted on the Klipsch main site (see above).

Well, you've done all you can, time to go to the shop.

As long as it was a 'T' type fuse it should have worked with a 2A, even if it was rated (which it turns out it was not) for a 3.15A

Bash amplifiers can be very hard to work on, I would consider just replacing it.

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