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Hello,

I am writting to all pro's of car audio SPL contests. We, my friend and I, are building a SPL rig for next year for small comps. He is going to run 3 15" Soundstream SPL's with an undecided amp at the time. He does have a Soundstream Rubi 1002 and a Kicker something or other 1200 watt amp, its a newer one, but there is a resistor blown on it. He would be throwing it all in a 86 Bronco II and going to upgrade batts and alt. I am wondering who has had SPL experience and can recomend a box or who has used these drivers/amp. He doesnt want to wall out the vehicle because that would put him in a different class. So any help on how to get the vehicle ready or any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

JC

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(a). The comp of which you speak, is it a sanctioned body such as IASCA, DBDrag, SLAP or MECA? Each have their own classifications based on criteria.

(B). There are formulas on the web for enclosure designing based on the output and recommended cu ft from each manufacturer.

©. Have you contacted Soundstream support for this information?

(d). Audio Enhancers make enclosures and MAY be able to guide you toward a DIY box

(e). Have you considered an aeroport design?

I have some other tips also, but I need more info first. FYI, I won't be able to respond back until Monday, July 16th

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I own a Soundstream Rubicon 1002, which drives my TC sounds TC 3000 15" in a big box. My driver is wired with two coils in series, then in parallel, the amp sees a 2 ohm load. As long as you have the current to supply it, it works like a champ. ( drives 2 ohm mono, not recommended by Soundstream )

Thoughts: what class are you trying for? Vehicle running or not?

Biggest alternator you can fit in the brackets ( may want to custom fab brackets for a big leese neville truck alternator with adjustable regulator ) LARGE wire everywhere ( especially important on classes with the engine off )

Engine off = massive battery storage and big wire ( 3/0 is great )

You can use the soundstream Rubicon, but being a class G, it will heat up, while effieiency is better than a pure A/B amp. Round after round may take it's toll. You may consider moving to a Class D amp like the offerings from Sundown Audio ( 1500 and 3kw amps )

Find the resonant frequency of the vehicle.... after you brace it. Sweep with a cd or better yet a frequency generator, and a smaller sub that has a flat response. Build your box to accomodate.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry it took so long, but we did build a box for the 3 15" SPL's. It came out to be a perfect (or close) 6.0 ft3. It is tuned to 40hz I want to say. The subs are facing the rear tailgate and the ports face the front of the vehile. According to USAC the box has to be under the windows, and this box does. The Rubi is still not fixed but the funds have stopped for this project right now, but will be back up in a few months. Still trying to find amp(s) for the subs, which are dual 4 ohm coils. We are thinking of for sure upgrading the wire :) unknown size of right now. As of if the vehicle is running or not im not sure how that works yet, he has all of the rules. We just need to figure out how to brace the inside of the SUV. The roof right now flexes alot, and by alot I mean it could be a PR. I think the class he ran lasttime was stock, so we are shooting for that. Any tips on the bracing of the vehicle or any other input would be awesome!! thank you guys for the input already!!

JC

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