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Looking to Star A Project - Need Ideas


dkalsi

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I feel like constructing a speaker. I've really enjoyed JC forum on the Conwall DBB - what awesome looking (and probably even better sounding) speaker.

I have to following parts on hand: Altec 511B horns, JBL 2404H tweeters, and K-55 drivers.

I, like JC, love the bass on the Cornwalls and want to create something similar to the Cornwall DBB but on a budget.

I wanted to know if it would be a good idea to construct something like the JBL 4435

a.jpg

It would be nice to create something that looks similar to the picture of 4435 above. Where there is two 15" woofer in the lower half and an Altec 511B+JBL 2404 on top. Is this a good idea to create a system with side by side woofers like this (i was reading JC Cornwall DBB forum and Dr.Who and DeanG advised against having horizontal orientation for the woofers). I am open to using a single woofer as well --, but because I would like more bass, is it possible for me to use a 18" woofer?

I am just hoping some experts may chime in and suggest what I could possible build given the components l listed above. Thanks

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Thanks for that djk, I think this idea was also suggested in JC ConrwallDBB forum. However, he wanted

both woofers to work together to increase db.

Would it be a better to use a sigle woofer (maybe 18") woofer? Or could I still use the design

above and not seperate the frequencies they will play?

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I am just curious how much of an improvement in overall sound is there when utilizing two subs down low.

Would it be better to create a system simlar to the JBLs (and having one sub rolloff say around a 100hz) or is it better

to just utilized one 18" that will have sufficient output in the lower frequencies.

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Michael raises an important point. There are plenty of drivers out there that will provide adequate low end performance, the problem is going to be finding one that has usable response up high to cross over to your 500 hz mid horn/ K-55 and porvide house shaking bottom end. It's all about compromises when trying to design your own speaker. I've had an ongoing DIY project for a while now and I still don't have it all figured out. I'm am using a single 18" as you mentioned above. I'm using JBL 2245 18" drivers which JBL says can be crossed over up to 800 hz, but most on the Lansing Heritage forums say they are only good up to 300-400 hz depending on the enclosure. I hope to be crossing over somewhere in that range to my JBL 2482 midrange driver mounted on my DIY 225 hz Tractrix horn. The 2482's have a frequency response from around 300-5000 hz. I then plan to crossover around 4500 hz to a pair of Bob Crites CT-125 tweeters.

It's difficult to find drivers to give flat response across the entire spectrum in a 2-way or 3-way set-up. You may have noticed many of JBL's speakers are 4-way. The more drivers you ad into the mix the more difficult it becomes for the home builder to design passive networks. Maybe you plan to tri-amp or quad-amp with active crossovers. Once I get my bass cabinets complete and everything assembled, I plan to do frequency response tests on each individual driver in assembly to see what kind of actual response i'm getting from each driver before I decide where to put the crossover points. This may prove to be more difficult than it sounds. I just want to point out that alot of thought needs to go into a home brew project, unless you prefer to emulate a project that someone has already proven out like the DBB Cornscala. Just remember that the journey may be more important as the destination. Good luck,

Jeremy

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Posted Image

The more efficient a direct radiator is, the less bass it has.

The No% (efficiency) of a direct radiator is only applicable in the octave between the EBP frequency and the mass corner frequency (one octave higher). For the JBL drivers shown that is 101dB, 97dB, and 93dB. The 2234 (used in the 4435) is 2dB more efficient than the 2235 shown in these graphs. The idea is to have the second woofer come in at the EBP corner to extend the bass without messing up the midrange.

Most 18s do not sound good above 300hz (there are expensive exceptions), and being around 97dB they will look quite similar to the middle curve above.

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Here is a double 15 design that works well to 500hz with the drivers stacked vertically. The sensitivity is about 102dB/2.83V/1M and is a minimum of a 4 ohm load (as opposed to two K33 drop to 2 ohms minimum). These drivers were originally designed for a Yamaha pro sound subwoofer and have a rubber surround.

Posted Image

Note the small box size (8 cu ft for both), not much bigger than a Cornwall. A high-pass filter (included in the response curve shown) at 31hz is recommended, especially if using a phono and/or high power.

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DJK,

What is the exact model of the drivers. I am open to driver selection as I have not purchased anything.

The one problem is that I would like to orient the woofers horizontally. Having them vertically would make the

speaker to tall for my liking (as was the issue the JC was having) unless I was to go with the same exact

corner design JC created for the Cornwall DBB.

I guess if I was to go with the side by side design, it might be a good idea cross one woofer at 100hz and allow the other

to play up to 500hz. I would imagine a sigle 15" woofer could easily play between 100hz-500hz.

Its the bass impact below 100hz where the second woofer would help significantly.

But this raises another problem - the crossover - it would be incredible difficult to build. Please

continue to share your thoughts.

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" advised against having horizontal orientation for the woofers"

it depends on the cross over frequency and the slopes of the xovers.

500hz and below is not an issue as humans are less sensitive to all the audio nuisance classifications that exist if they occur below 500hz

The slopes of the xovers are a factor to consider.....gentle slope xovers mean that your woofs would carry upper octave mid range as a result of the gradual roll off nature of gentle slope xovers.

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Because it doesn't sound as good as the other methods.

I've done it that way on purpose in a church install with dual 12s. Hoisted up near the ceiling it has narrow enough horizontal pattern to reach the balcony without a lot of splash off the side walls, and wide enough vertical dispersion to cover the main floor. At home the reverse works better.

The angle method reduces comb-filtering and boadens dispersion in the horizontal plane. The Tannoy has a bit of a cavity with some ramps that limit the vertical dispersion and reduce early reflections in the crossover region.

The flat method works, Westlake still sells its TM-3 reference series monitor, but I think it's worth the effort to angle them.

tm3.jpg

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DJK,

If you think its worth the effort, then that is definitely the route I will take.

Would it be possible to design something like that using the yamaha woofers you listed above? I love the fact that the combined

volume woud not be significantly bigger than a single cornwall. Is there any already established angle

designs out there that I maybe able to use. The thing is that I wouldn't have a clue how to desgin something like that.

If there are plans already out there and I just have to make the cuts, that would be awesome.

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