mac_daddy

ok - thanks. as it would happen, I know of a CDeluxe for sale for $300. I wonder if it will be an audible sep up from my ap2496... judging from your responses, you would record that (hypothetical) DAT to WAV @ 24 bit..?

you say the card deluxe is the supreme? what about the sek'd cards, and there is one other highend company that makes them (ella or something)..? I am not arguing, I am just asking your opinion.

some will tell you that the less process there is in the processing, the better... why, for instance would you take a DAT, recorded @ 16/48 and record it to your harddrive as 24/48? I used to think that this was a good idea, because mathematically this takes the samples to the 24th place rather than the 16th. But in reality, you are adding information that never exisisted. I can see the logic in both sides of the fence, but when you go up to 24 but, you have do some sort of noise shaping to come back down to 16; but it make sense to goto the furthest place possible when editing audio...

Thanks NOSvalves... I was planning on building a powered sub. I thought the procedure was kind of like hooking up the REC OUTs for a tape deck... Sure, I will send you the schematic - I just have to dig it up have a good weekend.

I got into tubes recently by buying a modded JoLida 302a. I won't ever go back to solid state. But I will be building one of those SVS tubes, and modding the amp to output to a powered sub.

Erik- thanks for the post, and the book title - I will be looking for it @ Amazon when I finish typing this message... how about an intro to electricity? I am talking about the basic theory stuff that I never paid attention to in school: what pos and negative mean, curent, inductance (sp), capitance (sp), etc. I sure would like a refresher

"Anyone to this point who has asked for a tube and one that I have will receive that tube or tubes for shipping fees only" Why thank you very much. Please let me know what I owe you; I will PM my mailing address over to you.

what tubes does the 102b use..? I couldn't be happier with my modded 302a (more info can be found via the link in my signature)...

didn't want to start a flamefest... I simply wanted to be considered (and not skipped) when the tubes are offered... I figured it wasn't personal, and I wanted to clarify that I wasn't trying to pull some tomfoolery; I just wanted my offers to be considered along with all the others from the group... that, and I did ask about the EL34's (along with the 12AX7's and the 12AT7's) first I did not want to start an offensive "tube grab," pissing contest, or anything else of that trolling nature... Have a pleasant Sunday all.

"Sunny, No problem there I have some nice 5U4's already what flavor you looking for ? I'm not a EL-34 nut so you can have first dibbs on them also. " I am just curious... I was the first to inquire about the EL34's (and I said I was happy to pay a fair price), so why does Sunny get first dibs???

that is what I thought - I see matched Mullards going for $40+ a piece. I have no idea what the other tubes are worth, but judging from the prices I see at tube sites on the 'net, I assume that some of the other tubes in your stash are worth some $$. There are more qualified people on this board, however, to tell you what those values are.

"Sounds good to me. I can test them out and offer them up on the forum to members for free just cover shipping if that is what you want and just keep what I may need..." you would do that? that is mighty kind of you...

" There are 3 steel bottom el34 mullards and another plastic based mullard in there somewhere." any chance of selling those to me?

I am interested in any 12ax7, 12at7 or EL34's that might be in the stash (in case you want to spread the tubes around the group a little bit)... thanks for the offer.

---------------- I would consider an older vintage piece like a Scott 299 or an Eico ... You'll get the integration (no remote control), better transformers, sweeter sound, and a few thousand dollars to keep in your checking account. ---------------- yeah or modify the one you already have (or get it done - try a google search for Dan Wright or "ModWright"). Then you could spend your $$ upgrading something else (and there always is something else)...

if you are looking to get into tube amps, this is a good opportunity... if you would like to see what I have done with a jolida 302a, check here...

this one: http://www.circuitcity.com/detail.jsp?c=1&b=g&qp=00401&bookmark=bookmark_20&oid=8407&catoid=-8748 thanks again.

how about this..? http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-kPQg5moZcpo/prodview.asp?i=119SV1i11H&s=0&cc=01 $20 for 1.5 m is a fair price, correct? This should be good enough for the DAT transfer, right? thanks again for all the advice.

"In S/PDIF connections, go for a quality cable with heavy shielding and near-zero tolerance for strand thickness variations" Might you suggest one (or more) that fit this bill? Thanks.

Isn't this why there is no jitter when playing WAVs back from the harddrive? So if using a soundcard with a quality DAC and analog RCA outs, wouldn't this be a preferential way to go? Isn't this because jitter involves timing, ripping involves copying. Since the timing is not relevant for copying, jitter has no effect on the copy, which can then be transferred across architecture (PCI, etc.) that does not have the jitter problem, right? I am not sure about dvd playback - unless you are using one of those cards with the breakout 6.0 analog outs; otherwise you are still outputting via s/pdif or toslink... It seems that the problem is the coax/optical interface - eliminate that from your chain, and you get rid of jitter..? Having said that, have we come any closer to identifying which cables/interface does the best job at reducing/eliminating jitter (besides harddrive playback)? also, if transferring info only, does the cable matter at all? I convert DATs I have recorded in the field from my sony D8 > 7pin passive/coax interface > coax cable > ap2496 SPDIF in > and record at the appropriate sample rate (48 KHz). I would think that since I am just transferring the data via coax (I listen to the WAVs), that the cable doesn't matter, right? thanks.

1. What Heritage speakers have you owned, currently own, or want to own? >> I bought a pair of Heresy IIs in 1990, and they have been the speakers for my main stereo setup ever since. 2. What was your age when you first purchased a Heritage series loudspeaker? >> 19 years old 3. What is your current age? >> 32 years old 4. Why did you choose Heritage loudspeakers over another Klipsch model? >> They were the best sounding loudspeakers that I auditioned. 5. If you currently own some Heritage loudspeakers, and could purchase some more Klipsch speakers(new or used), which ones would you purchase? Why? >> I would purchase any that I can afford, and that I would have a use for... Why? >> Because I think the Heritige speakers are some of the finest sounding speakers ever made. 6. Do you think the upcoming Jubilee should become part of the "Heritage" line, since it was also designed by PWK? >> I have never heard of the "Jubilee."

many thanks - I will post details of my progress to let you know how things come along...

Thanks for the advice, g3dahl It looks like the positive and negative posts are all in the same unit, so I guess I will have to replace the whole thing... Is this the right project for me to pop my cherry with a soldering gun (never used one before)?

Thank you for your offer - it is the black one, and I live in Los Angeles... Is there a place I should order from? Is installing the post difficult? what is involved? thanks again for any and all assistance.

I broke one of these when moving. I assume this is something I can handle myself. I have these babies new in 1989, but have never opened them up. Any help would be appreciated - a new tube amp is on it's way, and I would like my speaker to be ready... Thanks (in advance) for any and all assistance.