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About HDBRbuilder

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    woodworking, motorcycle touring, shooting, audio/video

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  1. HDBRbuilder

    Cornwall "II" question / project

    CDR-15 means Cornwall, Decorator, Raw (sanded but no finish applied) with 15" woofer. If I remember correctly, the "decorator" models went from marine-grade fir plywood to Birch plywood in the latter half of the 1960's, and at that time (or thereabout), the designation was changed to CDBR meaning Cornwall Decorator Birch Raw. Keep in mind that things would change but it may be awhile after the changes went into effect before the speaker designation changed on labels back in those days...it was what it was! Throughout the 1960's, especially the latter half of that decade, there were numerous changes being made, and speakers originally designed to be supplementary speakers got changed the most as the "powers that were" realized the they were the "bread and butter" of the company's income due MOSTLY to their affordability...so changes leaned towards them acquiring "main speaker status" instead of just remaining as supplementary speakers....with upgrades to the performance of those models occurring often in order to improve their performance as "mains". Klipsch depended upon "word-of-mouth" advertising more-so than any other speaker company, IMHO, and improving the performance of the models originally designed as supplementary speakers just improved that "word-of-mouth" advertising...because, for instance, somebody buys Heresys because they are more affordable than K-horns, and friends come over to have a listen...common sense dictates that those friends who arrive need to have as complete a "Klipsch experience" as possible...so upgrade the speakers to give that to them...pretty simple! And the word-of-mouth grew and grew! As did the sales of the lower-priced models in the line-up..."bread and butter" is what it is all about!!
  2. SOME of the speakers built were never logged-in, and/OR the records of them kept very early-on in the "digital age" got lost in the shuffle. For example, some of the factory "loaners" which were built as part a very small run and HAD serial numbers, but were never shipped out of the plant, were highly-likely left off of the logbooks because they were never intended for sale, OR because the decision had been made not to continue the process of putting the model into regular production, such as in the case of the LB-76. MOST of the factory "loaners" were those and LaScalas which had things like "corner damage" repairs from shipping incidents and metal trim added to protect the corner repairs. "Factory loaners" is what the employees "borrowed" for weekend parties and such...like taking a pair of LB-76 speakers to the lower Little Missouri River near Blevins, putting them out on the gravel banks and running speaker wire with alligator clips attached to the car stereo speaker connections and rocking out the countryside while swimming, wading, floating and having a cookout! The LB's were popular for that because you could stuff a pair of them along with a 55-gallon-drum home-made grill along with a couple of kegs, along with a large ice chest and other stuff, into something as small as the standard bed on a '75 Datsun pickup...don't ask me how I know! Ya gotta just love what the LB-76 speakers can do when pushed by a Blaupunkt auto-reverse in-dash cassette deck that has a max output rating of just 5 WPC RMS!
  3. Try looking at the rear of the speakers, at the top edge of the rear bass bin panel, where the serial numbers were normally stamped into them....and see if there is ALSO a name stamped into them on either side of the serial number. That was what they did for employee purchases IF the employee bought them to KEEP instead of selling them after a year of ownership. It made much easier to verify ownership, if your speakers were ever stolen and eventually recovered by the police. The name of the employee MAY have been stamped from top to bottom on one of the rear edges of the side panels, instead. Just look for it on the rear of the speaker cabinet. If you find a name stamped in there anywhere, it was the original owner/purchaser.
  4. HDBRbuilder

    Heresy HWL

    Made in 1984, value is dependent on condition of speakers and what somebody is willing to pay for them. I see that they have veneer issues which immediately drops the value due to them needing that repaired. More pics of them will help determine approximate value based upon recent purchases of Heresys from that era, to include pics of the back panels. I would just keep them, because buying new is extremely costly nowadays....while selling used and less than pristine will not even put much money in your pocket. It is what it is.
  5. Keep in mind that there was a quarterly bonus plan in effect back in those days, so every quarter, depending on the profit for the quarter, the employees got a bonus check based on NON-overtime hours worked and hourly rate or salary for the quarter. Sometimes the quarterly bonus check met or exceeded what the employee had already made in regular checks for that same quarter! So, the first pair of speakers bought were generally around the bonus time, and kept for one year, then often sold to upgrade to another pair of speakers in the line. For instance, buy Heresys first time, the next year sell them for MSRP to somebody, and take that money and buy Cornwalls or LaScalas, then sell them after a year and get K-horns or Belles. Many employees had kids, who got speakers for high school graduation and such, then got an upgrade when finishing college or getting married...or both. It was a "win-win" situation. When I got my basic scuba certification in 1979, I traded a pair of HWO Heresys still in the unopened boxes for all of these brand-new items to my instructor, who also had a dive shop behind his home: Dacor 80 cu ft aluminum tank with valve and rubber tank boot, Dacor Pacer regulator with buddy breathing system, Chronosport SeaQuartz 30 dive watch (the same thing Magnum P.I. wore!), Dacor rechargeable dive light, Dacor tank pressure guage/depthmeter console, Dacor wrist compass, U.S. Divers buoyancy jacket, and adjustable rubber weight belt with weights included. Pretty good haul for my investment of only about 240 bucks for the Heresys he got! The MSRP on the watch, alone was over 200 bucks!
  6. Not 40% discount...but 40% OF the MSRP...a 60% discount...plus add in the fact that there was almost always one or more "special" things about the speakers, which wouild normally have been an additional cost, but that was waived for the employees.
  7. I sent the back panels of my Heresy "flame twins" through the plant to have everybody sign them, prior to them being sealed and lacquered. From the comments by my fellow employees (including Portis Gilley, who had been there since almost the beginning!) and the looks on their faces, I am pretty sure that it was the first time that had ever happened. I do know that every now and then one of the employees would take his "brand new" speakers over to get PWK to sign them, though. I don't know "for sure", but I would guess that these were originally built for an employee, OR the purchaser was on-site and requested this happen...something like: "I want everybody involved in the making of these speakers to sign them". Who knows for sure?? If the labels have a stamp on them which says "not for re-sale" then they were MOST likely originally bought by Klipsch employees. We had to keep any speakers we bought at the employee discount (40% of MSRP back in the day) for a minimum of one-year after purchasing them, before we could re-sell them .After I had the employees sign my Heresy backs, others began to do something like that for speakers they bought, and most of them still have them.
  8. K-55V was still being used when I left Klipsch in September 1983....K-77M had been in use for a number of years by that time....since sometime around 1979-1980, if I remember correctly.
  9. HDBRbuilder

    Klipsch KT-THX system original cost

    Keep in mind that without GENUINE THX certification, you simply CANNOT properly hear most of what is on Lucasfilm movies! Gotta have it, or else!
  10. HDBRbuilder

    Pushing 2 Million Posts!

    Total posts on the site?? I wonder how many of those posts are still searchable?
  11. HDBRbuilder

    Heresy III: to bi-wire or not to bi-wire...

    You missed the entire point.... the source material is exactly the same, but the difference is in the equipment and the listening environment in which you first fell in love with the song. I seem to remember SOMEBODY calling Heritage speakers "ear-bleeders" compared to RF-7's many years back, too...LOL!
  12. HDBRbuilder

    Heresy III: to bi-wire or not to bi-wire...

    IMHO, bi-wiring from the same amp is ridiculous. What you are doing, basically, is using the amp outputs as though you are running two pairs of speakers, which lowers the impedance, and ALSO makes the amplifier section work harder, generating more heat, and heat is the enemy of electronic components. You MAY WELL "HEAR" a "difference", but that "difference" is highly likely just the difference in impedance caused by the bi-amping from two sets of speaker outputs on the same amp. EVERYBODY judges the sound of the music which they hear based upon pre-conceived notions...it is human nature. Not only that, but, for instance, have you ever heard a song that you loved when you were much younger, but the "QUALITY" speakers you heard it through more recently had you dumbfounded just because it didn't sound as good as you remembered it to sound? Think about that for a minute or two...think about the listening environment conditions in which that you first started to love the song so many years ago....was it being played on the radio??...in your car??...with the windows rolled down and traveling 60 mph?...through those crappy rear deck speakers supplied by the car maker??...etc. etc., etc. You have highly-likely been fooled by your own memories of ending up loving a particular song under horrid listening environment conditions....and now you are listening to it through expensive highly-efficient fully-horn-loaded ACCURATE sound reproducers and you hear everything BAD in the recording of the song that the crappy listening environment way back in the past HID from your ears...it is what it is. Everybody's ears are different, and everybody's pre-conceived notions of "good sound" are ALSO different.
  13. HDBRbuilder

    Best / Strongest speaker Cabinet design

    Good luck on dovetailing anything made of MDF...not enough linear fiber in it to keep the dovetails from breaking off when assembling, and if you try to solve that problem by making "looser-fitting" dovetails, you have negated the purpose of dove-tails to begin with....which is a tight joint with no "wiggle-room".
  14. HDBRbuilder

    My 1984 Klipsch Heresy I

    FIRST THINGS FIRST! WHILE YOU HAVE THE BACK PANEL OFF of those Heresy speakers, BE SURE to remove the wire connections from the crossover network to the terminal on that back panel, clean them, and then re-assemble in reverse. AND be sure to TIGHTEN the machine screws holding the terminal to the rear panel!! This is HIGHLY LIKELY your problem to begin with....because the wood of the rear panel shrinks over time, which means that the rear panel THICKNESS also shrinks, which in-turn causes the screws holding both the wires to the rear panel from the crossover network AND the rear terminal to become more LOOSE than it should be...which reduces the signal the crossover network can get. I have seen this happen hundreds of times since I joined this forum...and the vast majority of the members here are all about replacing this and that when just a little bit of cleaning and tightening is really all that is necessary...in MOST cases. The Heresy speaker has a relatively air-tight cabinet design, and its crossover components are far less apt to need replacing than most forum members want to admit...simply because those components are FAR LESS SUSCEPTIBLE to any kind of corrosion, or leaking can caps, due to the air-tightness of the cabinet design wherein sits the crossover network. I am more of a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kinda guy, myself!
  15. HDBRbuilder


    Be sure to take some black silicone caulk and run a bead on the metal grille side of the "industrial motor-board", about 1/4" in from from the hole edge, and let it set-up overnite so that it will become a silicone "gasket" to seal the metal grille side to the inside of the speaker front panel. I don't see any T-nuts for mounting the woofer, and they should have been installed in order to use machine screws to secure the woofer to the "industrial motor-board, whereas the wood screws should be used to install the "industrial motor-board" itself to the Heresy front panel.