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HDBRbuilder

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HDBRbuilder last won the day on October 24 2019

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  1. Also a PWK tongue-in-cheek true statement...JIM, did you ever ask him which skirmish it was during that battle?😉
  2. PWK used to say he had fought in he Battle of Southwest Proving Grounds during the war....which was tongue-in-cheek true!
  3. All the prototypes of the Jube bass bin were built using a table saw...and routers and such. My best friend Mike was on that R&D team as a "worker-bee"...and he had to either tear things apart for a re-build, or completely build another one each time they were tested and changes were made. TRUST ME, I've heard all about the development from him over the years! I'm pretty sure that somewhere there is evidence in CAD of each prototype built tho...to include its final version. This was in order to save wasting time working up any CNC programs until the final prototype passed muster, I'm sure! Now, as for a scaled--down K-horn...Bois'd'arc (Robert Wyatt) built one over 40 years ago...it was 1/2 scale meaning one-fourth in size...and in his own words..."sure was lots of work to end up with something that didn't even sound as good as a KG2! But at least I can say I built one someday!" It was eventually stolen from him! He had been keeping it under his K-horn work table and one day it was just gone! No telling where it ended up, either! We searched high and low...because that theft was not supposed to happen in our factory...meant we had some thieves around! Everybody I knew was pretty pissed about it, too!...including myself! He and I were very good friends!...still are!
  4. See this... and see this.... If you do the math...between the date on PWK's PREVIEW drawing of trhe "STYLE 7" and actual first use use of K-horn #175...then 175 is either the very first factory production of the Style 7....or very close to it, IMHO...once JRH steps in here...maybe he can narrow it down a bit more....but one to eight months is already a given...between the drawing and #175...which means it is pretty damned close if not the first factory "style 7" built, IMHO!
  5. : MDF replaced Lumber-core plywood for finely-veneered panels for the Klipsch speakers over 2 decades ago. This is lumber-core plywood...which is what the finely-veneered panels on the K-horn were made-of when his K-horns were built...and the lumber in that core was POPLAR: This flyer gives views of the three different K-horn styles of builds, B, C, and D-styles of builds:
  6. You are looking at two or more different cabinet builds, and thinking they are all the same...There was D-style, C-style, and yours which are B-style! All different specific buids and each priced differently....with B-style the most expensive of them all! B-style has a trap panel pon thope of the bass bin...then another one atop that but with a collar between the two...then the very top trap panel. C-style has one trap on the top pof the bass bin...NO CLLLAR AT ALL, and another trap above that one with sides connecting the two traps...one above the other...only the bottom trap is NOT removeable...the rest is! D-style is no trtaps at all...the bass bin front panel actually extends upwards to become the motor-board for the H/Fsection...no removeable wood above the bass bin body , itself! I'm leaving the rest of your questions for JRH to answer...over an hour of typing your answers already and that is enough FOR ME...good night! .
  7. Just google "poplar lumber-core plywood" pics...and you will know what you have...too easy, right?
  8. Deronda did the final assembly on those....meaning she was the one who installed all the components inside of them, then sealed the double=chjecked her work before installing the rear cabinet panel. Mr. Bradford tested them in the testing booth using frequency sweeps! which he compared with what they were supposed to be, using a saved record of the correct frequency response in those sweeps. Mr. Bradford also was listening for any air leaks from the cabinet when he did that!
  9. The Klipsch K77 tweeter was actually basiically just the Electrovoice T-35 tweeter, but the spec requirements for Klipsch use were more stringent than those of for the Electrovoice T35 itself. IOW, Klpisch wanted to get a slightly better version of the T-35 for its own use. For a very long time of its history, Klipsch out-sourced its tweeters, its mid-range compression drivers and its woofers...only using its own Klipsch mid-range horn lenses...the crossover networks were built by Klipsch, though. Part of the genius of PWK was that the cfompanmyh coouild use the same tweeter and mid-range compression driver in all of its offerings at the time, and the same woofer in everything but the Heresy, which used the smaller 12-inch woofer. This allowed for potentially lower per-unit costs for these items, through higher volume purchases of the same items because the Klipsch models shared the same electrical components in most cases. It is really a testament to a genius in the purchasing side of the business equation....even though PWK would never say that himself! PWK would often say, he wasn't much of a businessman, just a hobbyist tinkering around, designing and building speakers to sell so that he could afford to pursue his hobby full-time. The truth doesn't actually line-up with PWK's own purported opinion of himself, IMHO! For your statemement of this: "Initially with the LPs it seemed to me that I seemed to have abigger noise but then I realized that it is due to the greater sound pressure that makes the rustling sound emerge and therefore it is enough to recalibrate the volume knob." I assume you are referring to the apparent GAIN in background "hiss" sometimes found on records prior to, or between songs If that is the case, then you are actually experiencing an amplifier-induced signal gain, simply because the amp cannot find any sound to amplify...so it "tries to amplify harder"...which is common with high efficiency speakers being used, but more pronounced due to the horn-loading of the Klipsch speakers in the mid-to-high frequency ranges. But you should also have noticed that once the next soundtrack begins, that affect just disappears....until the song ends.
  10. THe initials won't just jump out at you...you actually have to look for them. facing the rear of the speaker cabinet, look at the rear edge of the side panel to your left...about one inch beloow the top of that panel. You should see two individual sets of two-letters one set above the other. IOne set may have filled wuith wood puty prior to ethe sanduing of the rear edges in the sanding room...then that set of letters may be filled with wood putty or be much fainter to make out due to its having been sanded. That set or single letter will be the builder code The other set will normally have no putty in it, and will normally be more prominent in its depth. since it was stamped-into the edge after the sander was finished. If you see the letter "A" at all, then I built them! I was the only builder who had ever had "A" for a code up through about the 4th quarter of 1983, when I left Klipsch. If you can take pics of the letters there, I can probably also tell you who the sander was for those speakers! I was the primary builder of the birch plywood Heresy speakers AND all of the Cornwalls from late 1976 thru the time I left the company...so it is very highly likely that you will find the letter "A" on your speakers. If you do not, then they were built on a day I took off from work or was on vacation, most likely. For birch plywood Heresys, I often built solo...which means I had no helper...so you very well may find just a single letter "A" in stead of a pair of letters for the builder code. When working solo, I could often build 100 or more Heresy's in a day solo, but normally averaged upwards of 80 to around 100. With a helper, the daily tally would be between 100 and up to 140+ Heresys a day. Which kinda should tell you that having a helper wasn't really having much help for the time it took to build birch Heresys. The primary builder was always doing most of the work, if not all of it, since the helper tended to fall behind, and the primary builder had to help him(or her) get caught-up! When the Cornwall worktable wasn't in use, many more Heresys COULD HAVE BEEN BUILT in a day with two solo workers both building...but my suggestion for that was pretty much ignored by the cabinet-shop foreman! It is what it...was!
  11. Tweeter is also Alnico from the pics. Builders just build the cabinets...final assembly installs the electricals. There is always a chance that tweeters and other drivers or woofers have been replaced over the years, also...some with parts from previous years than when the speaker was shipped.
  12. HMMMM...11/12/76....that is around the time...or just after the time, that I started build Cornwalls. So I MAY have built these...if they had 1977 serial numbers...I MOSTLY LIKELY would have been the builder, though! When these were built, I was building half of all the Cornwalls that went to the sanding room...by the time January 1977 came around I was building MOST of the Cornwalls except for a very few. I was hired in early July 1976...and assigned in the cabinet shop of the plant, but for my first four or so weeks was getting the new building ready to move into...the building was completed, but it took those few weeks to finish the steps necessary to spray down concrete sealer and then to actually spray the areas which had been readied, . WITH the sealer After that brsin-cell-murder experience, I was working in the cabinet shop, itself...by October I was already building completed cabinets...first Heresys, then Cornwalls were added to my rapidly growing list of things which I was assigned to do.
  13. In 1980, I was the primary builder of all the Cornwall cabinets...unless I was on vacation or took a day off, I was likely the lead builder of these, along with having a helper. Your tweeters should be the K77M (NOT alnico magnet!)!)...your mid-range compression driver should be the K55V (IS alnico magnet)) and your woofers should be K33 (NOT alnico magnets) The crossover network should be a "B" network. If I remember correctly we were still using the K55V mid-range driver for all of 1980 builds. The "not alnico" magnets (your tweeter and woofer magnets) would have been made from a ferrous mud slurry, compressed and baked to become a square ferrite magnet. Early on we had a few quality control issues with these ferrous-magneted drivers...but that was quickly turned around! So your drivers should be good to go. Whomever replaced the voice-coil dust cover did a really ugly job of it, and it appears it was not even the correct dustcover for that particular woofer. Having really "white-appearance" on those woofer cones MOST LIKELY means that those cones were heavily exposed to direct sunlight for a number of years....meaning they spent lots of time with their grille-cloth panels removed. From what I can tell, the cabinets look pretty good for their age, though! They are CB-R models, I guess, unless the birch plywood was stained walnut at the factory.
  14. Not really...I prefer bare wire connections, myself...just remove them, clean them up good and get any crud off of them and clean up the machine screw threads and threaded inserts... on them! Replace the connectors, Hook up all the wires, tighten all the screws snugly, and it's rock'n'roll time! I don'lt get hung up on all the cable and terminal yakkety-yak very much, mostly because I know that each and every additional connection (can you say SPLICE???) causes more loss of signal energy getting from point A to point B, due to resistance created from "splicing". It is what it is! Each additional transition along the line also acts as a splice, resistance-wise! Any electrician can tell ya that! GOLD-PLATED fancy connectors at wired ends or not! The addition of them equals at least one additional "splice" in the line! Since they are so old, I would suggest cleaning up all the wired connections everywhere...at crossovers, and also at drivers if not soldered! Get rid of all of that electrical resistance that has accumulated over the years! It DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE! Check your network can-style capacitors for leakage before firing them up! If any are leaking they all need to be replaced first FOR SURE!
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