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HDBRbuilder last won the day on October 24 2019

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  1. Finely-veneered cabinets with the mitered corners were assembled, FOR THE BASIC BOX using urea-formaldehyde glue, spmetimes called "brown glue"to secure the miter-joints It is a water-soluble powder that has to be mixed together carefully so that it is not too thin or too thick....since the finely-veneered miter joint cabinets used panels made of poplar lumber-core plywood, that meant you were bonding the end-grain of the poplar lumber core together at those miter-joints, and the "brown glue" was best for that. All other parts of the construction glues used were the "white glues, which was pretty-much the equivalent to tight-bond.. The K-horn bass bins had parts of it assembled using the brown glue, while other parts were assembled using the white glue. If there was ever any hide glue used, I am not aware of it...because from the very beginning of the company, urea-formaldehyde "brown-glue" was a furniture industry standard....especially in assembiy of poplar-lumber-core-plywood panels. EPA pretty much killed off the use of urea-formaldehyde glues for the most part, about the same time as Klipsch went over to using finely-veneered MDF panels for pretty much everything, except the basic K-horn Bass bin structure. One of the problems in furniture mass-production is dealing with glue squeeze-outs...especially when it involves the possibility of those squeeze-outs getting into the grain of the fine veneers at miter joints. Because then you have created yet ANOTHER problem AT those miter joints...how to get rid of any squeeze-out which occurred during the assembly of those miter joints, so that there is no "adhesive shadow" remining in the deeper part of the fine veneer grain right at those joints. Using Urea-formaldehyde glue for those miter joints severely reduces the possibility of stains and final finishes displayng an adhesive shadow at those joints. This is one of the reasons that hte "white glues" were not used for assembly at the miter-joints themselves, although the "white glues" WERE used for the reinforcing glue blocks on the inside of those joints...because the inside edges of the front of the boxes were shot with flat black paint, which kept any "white glue" shadow from being noticeable. There was a specific technique used for the application of the "brown glue" to the miters of the panels to minimize the squeeze-out to a bare minimum at the "toe" of the joint, so that there was no possibility of the brown glue getting into the fine veneer deep grain when assembling the cabinet. We used flattened-out soup spoons that had been carefully ground down at the edges to apply that brown glue...to the panels at the miter cuts....with the "toe" edge facing down flat, slightly over the edge of the work bench, then we skimmed off the glue from the sharp edge of the toe, about 1/16th of an inch along that edge...if done correctly. That way there was enough squeeze-out to re-surface that with the glue from above that point, but WITHOUT having any squeeze-out at all at the miter-toe, itself! Sometimes visitors would stand and watch us do that, and I would just say to them..."if you think THIS IS COOL, then you outta see me ice a cake!"😁
  2. Pics can help me tell you what is different about them, if anything at all.
  3. NOPE...they just showed-up one day and final assembly was ORDERED to begin using them THAT DAY...sometime in fall of 1977, IIRC! Bob Moers (company President at the time) gave the "order". A year or two later He was gone! Lots of things happened during that "year or two"! Huge employee turnover! Union came in! Many foremen were replaced, lots of new employees... A number of Honchos gone, employee quarterly bonus plan disappeared (replaceed by very tiny hourly pay increase!), insurance benefits changed (for the worse!)...lots of changes! It was the negativity of those changes that caused the company to lose lots of fairly long-term very experienced employees. Everything was supposed to get better, but nothing really did! I stayed on...but finally left in fall of '83! Cabinet shop foreman who got that job during that time just pizzed me off one too many times! I would not sacrifice quality for volume...if the sawyers send me pallets of outta square panels I culled them...He wanted me to build them anyway! So...I finally had enough of it! One Monday morning I walked in, he got between me and time clock...told me I was late...time clock still had three minutes til start time...I was one-minte walk from my work-table...I reached over his shoulder and clocked-in, then clocked out...told him..."Good luck with Heresy production this week!"...walked over to my worktable, grabbed anything that was mine, and out I went!...straight to the unemployment office, which, BTW wouldn't even be open until over a hour later! Three weeks later I was working in a local custom cabinet and glass-work company!
  4. If I was the one who built them there would definitely be an "A" there...and additional letter if I had a helper that day.. So they were either built after I left in October of '83 OR I had taken a day off and somebody else was at my work table building them.
  5. Have ya ever experienced a tiny Chihuahua biting thru yer socks at yer ankles with them tiny sharp teeth, and ya just can't let yerself just kick it away?🤣
  6. One of the reasons those so-called "laser" logos are so hard to find is that they were originally installed on the grille-cloth using double-sided sticky tape, and it was very easy for them to get lost in the shuffle once a piece of clothing got snagged on the corner of the badge...that glue residue remaining on originals can be quickly removed with goo-b-gone. PWK himself had the copyright to the PWK logo, NOT the company! So, the so-called laser badge came about as a result of company internal hierarchy strife, during which the copyright for the PWK logo was temporarily pulled back from use by the company. The replacement logo for the so-called laser badge had the re-instated PWK copyright emblem returned to occupy a box to one side of that badge. The "internal hierarchy strife" didn't last for very long, but it took awhile to get the new badges designed and to the company in enough numbers to begin using them on production speakers. The PWK "pie-slice" loges used prior to the so-called laser badges, were still out in the plant stored at individual final assembly work-tables for a few years "in-hiding" because most of the plant employees wanted them installed on their "employee specials" when they got to final assembly. Eventually, they were all gone...I'm sure that many of the employees hoarded back a few of them before they were ALL gone...I certainly grabbed a few! One of which has been on the dust cover of my TEAC A2340-R tape deck since 1977! One of the craziest thing I see, as one of the plant employees who had (and still HAS) the utmost respect for PWK and his accomplishments, in all of this "reverence" towards the short-lived time of the so-called "laser badge" is how badly people WANT them, since they are actually representative of a short time in the company's history in which an attempted internal hostile take-over from the company's FOUNDER was in the works! I guess...it is what it is!😵
  7. Those initials are more likely the sander of the cabinets, but if you gently scrape off the paint below those initials, you will likely find the builder code initial(s)...sanders tended to slather the rear edges of the panels with thinned down wood filler...let it harden, then belt sand those edges. Doing this often resulted in the builder code either getting completely sanded off or at least getting filled with putty and then it got painted over.! So if it is there it is under the paint. The sander code was put on after the sanding was completed...so it tends to always remain prominent, even after being painted-over. The builder code should be right below the sander code....underneath the paint.
  8. I use very light application of Johnson's paste wax on my laquered speakers...and buff it to a high gloss by hand. works great! If old oiled finish, then wipe them down with wood soap first, to clean any surface grunge from them, wait until next day and then use whatever the original oil finish was...if not sure...use Watco's rejuvenating oil. .
  9. Just a badge job folks...just a badge job! The box panels may have been special-ordered for them, though!
  10. OK...so here is the whole crap-show AGAIN of how many employees in the 1970's (and even earlier than that!)...thru the Early 1980's woiuld do their own personal "upgrading" routine for their speakers. Back in those days Klipsch employees were allowed to purchase one pair of speakers per year at approximately 40% of MSRP. The employee was required to keep those speakers for at least one year before re-selling them. So...best case scenario for upgrading would be to start out with dropping around 250 bucks (@ 40% in 1978) for a pair of birch Heresys...or for a bit more, get walnut ones instead. Keep them for a year...then sell them to somebody at MSRP, which tended to be pretty easy to do...more on WHY later. So now you have about 635+ bucks to put towards either a pair of Cornwalls in walnut, OR a par of Lascalas...you decide which ones. Which whenyou buy them, srtill leaves you with enough money remaining for a few cases of beer. So you keep them for a year...then sell them, again at MSRP of even more...again...easy to do, and Why is coming up at the end. So you take the money you got for the Cornwalls OR the LaScalas...which would be more than enough to pick up either a pair of Belles, OR a pair of K-horns at 40% of MSRP...so after three purchases over a period of just TWO years, your original 250 bucks out of pocket expense investment has bought you a pair of K-horns or Belles. So...Just WHY was it so easy to sell them at OR ABOVE MSRP when you decided to do so? The answer is pretty simple: You got preferential treatment of what you purchased as an employee all the way thru the plant!...unless everybody hated you! For example: 1. You got to specially slect the panels used for the box bodies or in the case of the K-horn its finely veneered panels sets. SO, the employee generally chose some very unique panels. 2. If you did not build them yourself, then you got to CHOOSE who did! 3. If you did not sand them yourself, then you got to choose who did. 4. You were taken care of very well by the folks in the finishing department...who ensured your speaker appearance was a masterpiece of their abilities. 5. Even in final assembly for all internal components they were PERFECTLY matched! If you wanted serial numbers ending in "00" and "01" then you got them. If you wanted your name stamped into the rear of the speakers, you got that too! So that is WHY it was so easy to sell them at or above actual MSRP! They were as customized of a job as possible! Today we see the Museum editions and other special editions...but back in THOSE days the "oooos and aaaahs" available were MOSTLY for the "employee specials"! Does it all make sense now??
  11. PWK was commissioned in the Army as an Ordnance officer. Ordnance is the projectiles/ammunition and their delivery systems, from individual firearms, all the way up to missiles, their delivery systems and their warheads. PWK was also a competition rifle shooter for a number of years, and most likely also competed in hand-gun competition. His assignment to the Southwest Proving Grounds for the duration of WWII led him to decide to start-up his speaker business there after the war ended. He liked the work ethic of the locals and his wife was already teaching at the school In Hope. The former proving grounds are a few miles North of Hope, Arkansas. Those proving grounds during WWII, were primarily devoted to improvement of ammunition for mortars and artillery during the war. Although PWK was an avid shooter he did no hunting. of wild game. He WAS a re-loader, though. He worked-up some nice loads to try out in my .300 Win Mag. I supplied the once-expended brass and his recommendations for various weight/type bullets in .308 diameter for use in different hunting scenarios, and he worked up the loads...they were extremely accurate loads, too! He was really surprised when I repaid him with two boxes of Sierra .308 match-king BTHP 168 gr. bullets...I figured he had an M1903A1 NM w/star-gauged barrel stashed somewhere at home...and he displayed his not often seen BIG grin when I handed them to him. 🤣 .
  12. As far As I can remember no raw birch Beles were ever bult unless it was some kind of weird special order or something.. Besides, if a person wanted Raw birch in a pair they wuold be better off getting a pair of LaScalas...at less than half the price of a pair of Belles.
  13. The CDBR and HDBR were a particular build type for those speaker models, and they were both replaced by the HBR and the CBR which had identical motor-boards to the finely veneered versions of those speakers. Actually, the Decorator versions had a better chance of surviving a long drop onto a front corner of the speaker, simply due to the box construction itself. The Decorator versions had the top edge of the motor-board lapping over the front edge of the top panel, and the bottom edge of the motor-board lapped over the front edge of the bottom panel, then the front edge of the side panels lapped over both the motor-board and the top and bottom panels, which made the box stronger at all four front corners of the assembly for a drop test situation on any of those four front corners.
  14. HDBRbuilder

    Any Knife guys?

    There is a guy just down the road from me who also served in the same Airborne unit I served in, but he was there about a decade before I was. He makes custom hunter/skinners, but only for auction to Airborne association reunions....so as to get more money into their association coffers. His work is more than respectable, and I have one of his blades...I think he actually starts out with leaf springs from very old trucks...which tend to make great-edge-holding blades, that will not get damaged from prying with them...high carbon spring steel! He re-forges them some, but they are still basically the same steel the springs started out as. They too, WILL RUST, if not taken care of, but they make GREAT practical user knives...which is what I personally prefer in a knife! I have another old Airborne buddy who specializes in holsters and sheathes...and his work is simply outstanding! When we had a retiring LTC from the ROTC program I worked at...I talked to the rest of the gang about getting him one of the holsters for his retirement/departure gift. Her is a pic of what he received...simply amazing work! I designed the lay-out of things, based upon the LTC's military experience...and when I presented it to him, his eyes teared up! Anybody interested in the holsters or knife sheaths...just google "Clever Action Holsters" You won't be disappointed in what you get for a very reasonable cost!
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