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HDBRbuilder last won the day on September 27 2023

HDBRbuilder had the most liked content!

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  1. They have not been available for decades, now...good luck! The last ones the plant had were scarfed-up by the employees when they were told they would no longer be used. Basically, the two versions of the originals are unobtainium nowadays. But Klipsch COULD have another run of them made, it they desired to do it...it is what it is.
  2. Pie slice Klipsch logo is correct for 1975...also for 1976 speaker production...basically from 76 backwards the pie slice logo is correct, except for early 1960's and before. Also there were times when the "engraved-plexiglass" model name logos were at the bottom of a speaker and the pie-slice log was the upper corner of the speaker, but it was just for a very short time. The pie-slice logo was replaced in around October time-frame of 1977...with the metallic so-called "laser" badging. There was a reason this was done, (the pie-slice PWK log, along with his "PWK" initials rendering...both trade-marks were owned by PWK, himself, NOT by the company!). And there is ALSO a reason why the boxed "PWK" with "Klipsch" logo replaced the so-called "laser logo"....which did not have "PWK" on it. The reasons are who had "controlling stock" of the company...during these time frames.
  3. In your pics you posted of the drivers...both of the mid-range drivers are K55V with the AlNiCo magnets. One of the tweeters is K77 (round AlNiCo magnet), the other is a K77-M (square ferrite mud slurry magnet).
  4. Oiled Oak veneered Chorus models. As for value it depends on if all original, all components functioning correctly and any damage done to the cabinets, grille-cloth panels, etc. Have you even LISTENED to these? If not...maybe you SHOULD...because these are very nice speakers! Even location of the seller is a factor in the "Value" of them...along with distance the buyer would need to go to pick them up or the cost of shipping them involved! Me? If I got a pair of great condition Chorus speakers...for FREE!...I would keep them and enjoy them! Once again...give them a listen!
  5. I was primary lead builder of ALL the Cornwalls when these were manufactured. I did not build any like these, myself...with the walnut-veneered motor-boards. So tese were either built when I was on vacation or taking a day off, OR standard birch veneer plywood used for the standard motor-board asbeen replaced of re-hveneered or whatever. I figure this was done AFTER it left the factory. Here is why: The black paint you see on the inside edges of the top, sides, and bottom panels around the motor-board was shot AFTER the installation of the motor-board. So there are two possibilities here...either replacement walnut-veneered motor-boards were installed sometime after the speakers were purchased, OR a pair of slightly damaged K-horn walnut-veneered front panels were trimmed to fit and used for an in-house "employee special" build for an employee...but I didn't do it! If these are "employee specials", then check the serial umbers stamped into the panel rear edge...if they are consecutive numbers, one ending in 99 with the other ending in 00...or one in 00 and the other in 01....then start looking at the rear edge of the panels again and see if a First and Last name were also stamped in one of these rear edges. This was a courtesy thing for employees, but it was not a guaranteed thing, because many employees who bought speakers, optioned not to have this done, because they intended to sell them after keeping them for one year. Foot-note: If I had been the one who built these, then there would be no noticeable sign in the front panels of the staples used to secure the front...why? Because I would have stapled them thru the glue blocks behind the motor-board, instead. And I would have added horizontal glue block to the top of the port shelf so that the motor-board COULD be secured by staples from the rear along there, so it is what it is...some people pay more attention to detail when building "employee specials" than others do! I always bjuilt "employee specials" during lunch break...just because it takes more time to do a "special" job for the employees...and due to that, it would eat into regular production time daily totals if I built them during regular production time!
  6. Pics of the drivers will help with your question. But 79-80 time frame is when nud-magnet drivers began replacing the former AlNiCo magneted drivers, Mostly due to the severe drop in availability of cobalt, which was primarily due to apartheid sanctions going into effect against imports from South Africa! So as the availibilty of cobalt diminished, iron slurry "mud" magnets began to replace AlNiCo magnets on drivers. K-77 M replaced former K77, K55M replaced K55V. . .
  7. In order to get into the "mid teens" down low, you gotta have a bigger horn lens to get there. They are called "big old horns" for a REASON!
  8. There is ALWAYS the option of using an ACTIVE crossover for your K-horns...like the one used on the Jubilees....but the K-horn bass horn is limited to bottom-end performance at around 32 hZ, simply because of its horn lens design, coupled with a requirement to be CORRECTLY loaded into a room corner. So getting any kind of bottom end below 32 hZ out of its bass horn is highly unlikely to happen to any extent. Movie explosions and such do not fall into the true musical instrument spectrum, which is what the K-horn was designed to achieve.
  9. Dtel hit the nail on the head for ME...because in order for the NEW Jubilees to get down into the tens with bottom-end frequency response...there HAD TO BE a serious modification or MODIFICATIONS, involved in the bass bin horn design compared to that of the original Jubilee speaker bass bin. If you HAD PAID CLOSE ATTENTION to the original Jubilee design as a "home speaker", then you would have easily seen that the bass bin of the Pro-version had been modified from the original "home version" in its bass bin section...maybe even more than once, over time. And now we have the "demise" of the pro-version with this NEW home version taking its place...which, with its bass bin having been MAYBE just more than become a vented horn in the manner the sub-woofers for the pro-line have been done, So, for ME, at least, I am more curious about the changes made to the recent Pro Jube bass bin design to get it to go down so low in its bottom end that it meets true subwoofer status now. This is a SIGNIFICANT change to the performance IMHO! Also, I believe that Chief Bonehead made these changes knowing full well that they would have been totally approved of by PWK, were he still with us! After all, PWK's desire was to produce a TWO-WAY fully horn-loaded design which could out-perform his original K-horn design by extending its performance to a much lower bottom-end and keeping its upper frequency performance at or above that capable by the original K-horn 3-way design. That was the original goal to begin with! So, I'm quite sure PWK would be happy with the bottom-end performance extending even lower than that of the original Jubilee bass bin! I would just love to see exactly what kind of bass bin changes have occurred to achieve this, myself! PLUS, I would ALSO be curious as to the possibility of a "decorator" version of the new Jubilee which could be "dolled-up" by the buyer...as a viable slightly lower cost option for the new Jubilee speakers...just saying...especially since I can envision a pro-version of this new Jubilee happening sooner or later! After all, PWK himself offered decorator versions of his speakers for decades in order to let the purchaser do the "dolling-up" at a decent savings over "factory-dolled-up" models...as in the Heresy, Cornwall, and K-horn decorator versions. For those of u complaining about the appearance of the new Jubes, then you can doll them up however you want to if this ends up being an option...doncha think?? So...instead of complaining about appearance...why not just jump on the "Decorator Jube" bandwagon, instead! No matter WHAT happens, I trust that Roy has continued steering right on a straight course with the ORIGINAL INTENT of PWK in this new version of PWK's final design! After all, it was advances in horn technology which allowed PWK to come up with a two-way design to eclipse his original three-way design of the K-horn...and since that initial last effort by PWK, things have advanced further in horn technology at the bottom end performance of the spectrum!
  10. BTW folks, using the official government inflation data is way off base from reality...that is why the annual COLA is such a pitiful excuse tor keeping up with ACTUAL inflation!
  11. When inflation runs rampant, like it is doing RIGHT NOW...for various reasons, and it is topped-off by huge increases in lumber/wood-product materials, the prices will rise...back in the Jimmy Carter-era, when I worked there at Klipsch, it was not uncommon at all for the company to have two or more 10% price increases in one calendar year. And that had absolutely NOTHING to do with employee wage increases at all...since we were lucky to get a nickel a year back then!
  12. Why wait at all to do this?...it is like maybe a 1-2 hour job...and you will IMMEDIATELY hear the difference without changing a single thing on those speakers! All you need is a screw-driver or two, and a bit of di-electric grease! and some contact cleaner and paper towels!...so just DO IT...do it NOW! It is "American Black Walnut"...coloring can range from dark brown with a hit of red, all the way to almost jet black with hints of purple. European walnut is kin to it...because they are from the same "family" of trees, but so are the hickory tree varieties, and pecan varieties. So-called "European walnut" didn't even originate in Europe, it was imported there from Persia a few hundred years ago, primarily for use in furniture lumbers...and it doesn't approach the darkness of coloration that American Black walnut has. BUT, that being said ,you can use black walnut stain on European walnut to darken it. European walnut leans heavily towards the "blonde" side of natural wood coloration. See what happens when you ask these questions from a mixed timberland owner? Long line of timber people in my ancestry! So, Berlin, Germany huh? Been there, done that, way back when it was a divided city. I was a young Fallschirmjäger assigned at Mainz many moons ago! BTW, American Black Walnut is the number "1" on the wood density scale...all other woods of the world are either higher than "1" or lower than it. The wood density scale was created to provide close approximation of other woods to American Black Walnut, in order to find suitable other woods from other trees to use in creating military rifle stocks. American Black Walmut was the preferred wood for those. ME? What would I use to re-veneer a single SW for use with Heresys? Pecan crotch-wood would be a nice alternative, but still could provide a close match to American Black Walnut in most any instances! Be creative, not boring, in your wood choices, I always say! Just remember THIS, though...having beautifully veneered speakers can become a very expensive investment when the "significant other" of the household decides to get new furniture to match the speakers in the room! You have been warned!🤣
  13. How many times do I need to say this...and I am definitely not gonna write the whole damned thing out again...so do a search of my posts about cleaning up electrical contacts from the rear panel to everywhere else and applying a liberal coat of di-electric grease to all of the connections before reconnecting them...and you will HIGHLY LIKELY see that the performance of them is BEST improved with a bit of your time and effort and absolutely nothing else SHOULD be required! for Heresy I models....PERIOD! Stop planning on changing things and just get what you already have working at its peak performance FIRST! Of all the heritage models, the Heresy networks and innards get the very least of damage done to them over time from outside influences simply BECAUSE they are a relatively air-tight cabinet to begin with! Lemme see if I can find the most recent post I made about all of this...and it will walk you through he process in absolute detail. ONCE AGAIN, bare wire connections are the best because they have the least electrical resistance involved! PERIOD! OK found it..@AndreG Just read and do the following! you're welcome, AndreG!...AND it only took me just ONE bottle of Kostritzer Schwarzbier Lager to find that old post of mine, too!...Now I get to relax while drinking my second one!😄
  14. He was a SWIMMER...The very first time he chatted with me in his office...one of the first things he noted after a few minutes was that I was a smoker. He basically said: I see that you are a smoker, I was a smoker myself for the early part of my adulthood life...but after I found out what kind of damage it had been doing to me, I gave it up!" He then suggested to me to consider doing the same. He never mentioned smoking to me again. I later found out that he had been diagnosed with "emphysema" in the late 1950's or early-mid 1960's...and he quit smoking, and started a rigorous program of swimming to build his lung capacity back. He also walked very quickly wherever he went...all for aerobic exercise...he was a very physically flexible man!
  15. Yeah, I really liked Dee...one of the epitomes of "good people"! The next ones I build I will have full photo documentation of how they go together, including the finer building details involved....likely a short video series on building them NO MDF at all in them, either! One pair will be my outside party ones, the other pair will be for inside the house use!
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