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HDBRbuilder

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HDBRbuilder last won the day on October 24 2019

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About HDBRbuilder

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    woodworking, motorcycle touring, shooting, audio/video

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  1. You can get plasti-dip in gallon-sized or smaller cans, too...which is what I would recommend, and just take a paint brush and apply it....that way you get a thicker coating for the outside of the horn lens...with the added advantage that yu can ALSO apply a thin even coat to the face of the mounting flange of the horn lense in order to achieve a better seal to the motor-board when re-attaching it. As for the thickness of the coating, it doesn't NEED to be very thick, just enough to cover the surface completely in a relatively even coating. After all, you are JUST needing to damp any "ringing" possibilities in the metal of the horn to begin with, and it really doesn't require much to do that to begin with....you can actually take a coupe of latex rubber gloves and wrap them around the horn and achieve the same thing! People tend to over-do everything on this forum, which is totally ridiculous, IMHO!
  2. Has anybody tried this yet? https://www.maperformance.com/products/plasti-dip-matte-black-rubber-coating-11203?variant=7525559747&msclkid=079ef8155bc61b6ca9b6a63c0dcdcb84 This seems to be one of the best ways of damping a metal horn lens from its outside....just spray its outside down with solvent grade ether (Birchwood-Casey's "gun scrubber"...can be found in Wally World gun cleaning section) to clean its outside surface and remove anything which may keep this from sticking....then after that dries, use this stuff....too easy! You're welcome!😉
  3. There is ABSOLUTELY NO NEED to remove the grille cloth to determine if these have the "perforated metal grilles" installed. You can see that by opening the driver/network access panel at the speaker rear, instead! These are actually called the "Industrial Heresy Motor-boards". Having grille cloth on these most likely means that it was added after purchase....but the similarity to the way the grille cloth is mounted to what was done to accomplish this at the factory makes me think that this may have been due to a specific customer request for cloth grille cloth installation. Underneath of the grille cloth, you will likely find that these originally had Industrial Heresy motor-boards installed. The Industrial Heresy motor-boards consisted of a piece of approximately 1/2" Baltic birch plywood, with the woofer outline routed out of its center, and with a metal (aluminum) grille stapled to it. The Industrial motor-board also had holes drilled in it to use the wood screws to attach it to the rear of the regular motor-board, with the stapled-on grille to the front of the industrial; motor-board. Additionally, the industrial motor-board has T-nuts installed in order to mount the woofer directly to it using machine screws. In order to ensure that the industrial Heresy motor-board sealed its metal-grille to the regular Heresy motorboard….prior to final assembly (usually the afternoon beforehand), a bead of black silicon caulk was run around the face of the grille, in a radius slightly larger than the radius of the woofer opening in the industrial motorboard and atop the metal grille (which had already been installed and painted black most often). After this bead of caulk set-up over-night, it served as a pliable (as in squashable) gasket to ensure the sealing of the industrial motor-board's face to the cabinet motor-board....basically sealing the cabinet air-tight (more-or-less) at the front. If you ever open up the access panel on these it is readily apparent that the woofer is attached to the industrial motor-board using machine screws, while the industrial motor-board, itself is attached to the cabinet motor-board using wood screws….but to actually see the silicone caulk gasket on the face of the metal grille would most likely require your removal of that industrial motor-board from the cabinet motor-board to understand what I described. I would advise against that because removing it may break the seal from that caulk and cause it to not seal back properly again. Installation of the Industrial Heresy motor-boards actually reduced the interior volume of the cabinet a bit, but not enough, as PWK would say, to "make a dime's worth of difference" in its performance.😉 You might ask "how do I know all of this?" I had Industrial Heresy Motor-boards installed by Gwin Cox in final assembly a few weeks after I first took my "flame twins" HDBL's home...due to an "overly curious" adopted cat I had to deal with at home...its curiosity was about to end up with my woofer cones being mauled by its claws...pretty simple! I had no desire for "curiosity to kill the cat", since it was a great "mouser" in the raggedy house I was residing in at the time!
  4. If you LOOK CLOSELY at this pic, it SEEMS to show the bottom of a label on the rear of the bass horn....just below the top panel of that bass horn., Providing the information or, better yet, a good pic of that label will actually answer your question as to year of production much better than a general time frame for its manufacture date.
  5. I've been out of the loop for about a month….so bringing WHERE and WHEN?
  6. "Inspected by" signature line was actually the person in final assembly who installed the drivers/horn-lenses and networks into the speaker cabinets, then closed up the cabinets prior to them being tested.
  7. Just face the rear of the speaker cabinet, then look at the rear edge of the side panel to your left....up around one inch below the joint with the top panel, there...and there should be one or more initials stamped into the plywood edges there....if the letter "A" is one of those letters, then I built the cabinet. One or moe of those initials will also be stamped in deeper, and those are the initials of the sander of the speaker cabinet. They really AREN'T stamped in "deeper" but were stamped in after the sander finished sanding the speaker...which makes them APPEAR to have been stamped in deeper. The builder code letters were often filled in with wood putty prior to sanding the rear edges, and then sanded down so much that they are difficult to discern....so look hard to find them.
  8. I was highly likely the builder of both of these HBR speakers.
  9. I agree...nice looking cabinet...that gold-toned upper heat vent should be a dead give-away along with its trapezoidal shape...for somebody who is familiar with cabinets that have those features. Marantz used a trapezoidal shape there, on SOME of their stuff...but not gold-toned grille...and most of their vents went all the way to the rear of the case, IIRC!...but were black....again, IIRC! The front inside perimeter dimensions are key to what went into it, for sure!
  10. With rust already eating away at parts of it, why not just get everything prepped by scraping loose the flakes where it is peeling, then sanding it spo that the new primier will stick well...and instead of using regular primer, get some of that stuff (can't remember what it is called!) that bonds with the rust...put on a coat of that, then shoot it whatever color you want afterwards? That way you would be killing two birds with one stone, I would think. Bed liner isn't a bad idea, either....that way when you're climbing around on it, at least your shoes would have a better grip to what they come in contact with!
  11. I don't believe that walnut case is from McIntosh...because, its upper gold-toned ventilation area is a trapezoid-shape instead of a wide rectangle...IIRC, McIntosh always used a wide rectangle for their ventilation area and not a trapezoid. But I MIGHT be wrong...I just have my memory to rely upon on this. I HAVE SEEN this shape on a wood case like this before, just can't recollect what went into it. It is NOT a Harman/Kardon, though...maybe a Marantz?
  12. KCBR...no finish was applied at the factory...they are C-style Klipschorns shipped as "Birch Raw"...meaning the speakers were just sanded and then shipped, with no finish applied. Sometime after they were shipped the "collar" between the upper H/F top section and the bass bin was added...C-style shipped from the plant without any collar.
  13. From just after my family returned from my father's accompanied tour of duty (3 years) in West Germany, when my parents bought a console stereo for the living room, sometime while I was in kindergarten in 1958 or 1959, the radio which HAD BEEN the family music-listening device, ended up on the bedside table in my bedroom. It was a Grundig Majestic tube radio (which I still have, along with its 45 rpm record changer!) . From that point onwards, at least while we lived in Odenton, MD, while my father was finishing up his army career at Fort Meade, MD, that radio was tuned to "60 on the radio" out of Baltimore...a rock-n-roll station, every night...all night long...I slept with the radio on! Every night! All thru school, and high school and my first year of college it remained bedside, although it had been re-set to more local stations for rock-n-roll after we moved from Maryland to Arkansas in January of 1964! Its case was made out of a very dark brown bakelite type of heavy plastic, with gold painted trim. This radio was a multi-band one, so I could change it to short wave and pick up airline pilots chatting on their radios and stuff, too!
  14. I worked at Klipsch from 1976 to 1983...about 7.5 years...in that time maybe 2 or 3 pairs of gloss piano black K-horns were shipped, from what I can remember. So, they are exceedingly rare as a finish on K-horns, but it was DEFINITELY an option for the finish throughout that time and earlier and later than when I was there. THe painters hated doing them, though, because there was way too much possibility of drips/runs happening during the application of those multiple coats of high-gloss black laquer! They would neeed to come in bef9ore work to shoot those layers, too...after scrubbing down the floor to eliminate the possibility of any dust getting into the finish when they shot the speakers, and also prior to the rest of the employees getting to their work stations, stirring up dust in the process! Total PITA for the painters!...seriously! It was also a total PITA for the final assembly and shipping personnel...almost anything might create a scuff mark and the shipping department had to be very careful when packing them...for the same reasons! As for the validity of that gloss piano black being an original factory paint job, only the labels can confirm or deny that for you, just as USNRET stated above! Just looking at your posted pics, my best guess is that the gloss piano black was applied after the speakers left the plant...since it appears that the sharp edges and corners have been sanded over to "round those edges somewhat" prior to the black finish being applied....but I could be wrong!
  15. That is pretty much what happened. "Crown" had already received trademark status thru a completely different manufacturer in Europe and some other locations, as early as 1973...so when Crown began marketing overseas, they had to use a different trademark...so they came up with "Amcron"….short for "American Crown"....and marketed their products using that logo in places which fell under the trademark rules for the European "Crown" products. Identical stuff, just a different logo. In some placesx it it still required for Crown to be sold as Amcron, it seems....I guess that has to do with how long the trademark is granted for in those particular places...and whether it has been renewed by that other "Crown company" or not.
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