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HDBRbuilder

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About HDBRbuilder

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Arkansas
  • Interests
    woodworking, motorcycle touring, shooting, audio/video

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  1. Understanding THD in tube amplifiers

    Does your amp have a wall plug that can be inserted either way (i.e., both spades on it are the same size???) If so, then just try the old-school simple fix: unplug it and plug it back in with spades in opposite wall receptacles holes.
  2. Forte II oak clear

    Heat tends to increase the rate of oxidation of iron...it is a catalyst for that. Direct radiation such as sunlight warms up the wood...oxidation rates increase....high-iron-content wood darkens more rapidly.
  3. Forte II oak clear

    Cherry darkens for the same reason as maple darkens...high iron content in the wood fibers. It has nothing to do with sunlight, it has to do with RUSTING...or slow oxidation of the iron within the wood fiber...it tends to turn a darker reddish color over time as the iron content within the wood fiber oxidizes. That is why the "antique maple" stains are a reddish brown color...if you leave the wood raw or oiled, it will darken all by itself over time. The problem with applying an "antique maple" stain is that the wood under it wil stil darken over time, and eventually, that with the combination of the dark stain will make it appear almost reddish-black...which is what people find out if they keep a piece of maple furniture which was originally stained to look like antique maple for a long enough time. For some odd reason, it seems that trees which have a high sugar content, such as maple, cherry, apple, persimmon, peach, plum, etc....ALSO tend to have a high wood fiber iron content..I have no idea why this is...but they all tend to darken with age, with apple wood darkening the least of those listed....and strangely apple wood has the lowest sugar content of the bunch!...go figure! Have you ever put the end grain of maple or cherry to a belt sander??? Did you smell the "burnt sugar" as it was sanded???
  4. Help with Stylus Choice

    I bet it has the Sure M91ED cartridge on it, since that was the largest selling cartridge in those days.
  5. Help identifying Klipsch Forte 1's Wood Type

    Keep in mind that the walnut veneer on those is pretty thin and was sanded prior to finishing the first time around, so be careful not to sand through it...so,FWIW, take your time and use very fine grit on a sanding block sanding WITH the grain...that way you won't tend to overdo it which is very easy to do if you use a powered sander.
  6. Help identifying Klipsch Forte 1's Wood Type

    Oiled walnut veneer laminated to MDF substrata is the materiel the cabinets are made out of.
  7. Scotch & Cigars & Tunes

    Bought some Glenfiddich 21 yesterday...EXTREMELY pricey for my CURRENT budget...probably gonna wait 'til holiday season to crack it open. Today's sip is Dalwhinnie 15. I really like Dalwhinnie! It has Great traditional highland flavor...and very smooth. It has become one of my regular "go-to" bottles. The best Scotch I ever had, though was a Barrel-Proof Knockando that was over 120 proof...maybe even over 130 proof...can't remember...that I picked up just after Christmas at the Little Rock Air Force Base Class IV...in the mid to late 1990's...for way under half price, which was STILL way over 100 bucks! It was so smooth for its octane rating that when I took a SMALL pour of it, and felt NOTHING as the first sip went down, then within a few seconds of hitting my stomach, it was like my stomach had a heater start up inside it...just a deep WARMTH...and my face flushed and within a few MORE seconds my ears got HOT, and my speech was slurred...from just the FIRST SIP! My GAWD it was smooth with a wonderful taste on my pallet! Surry (a very old friend) and I were at his New Year's Eve party when I cracked it open (PRIOR TO THE CROWD ARRIVING), and we had first sips together, and we both looked at each other and said this is WAY TOO DANGEROUS, but it is SOOOO DAMNED GOOD! I still don't think I have ever had any Scotch come even close to that other than that ONE-time purchase of that bottle. I have looked for it for years since, and NEVER found anymore of it...but it is SURELY WORTH THE PRICE, even the NON-DISCOUNTED PRICE. If you ever get a chance for a sip, DO NOT TURN IT DOWN...But ALSO ensure you don't have to drive anywhere afterwards! If I'm lying I'm DYING! UNBELIEVABLY FANTASTIC stuff! Needless to say, Surry and I decided that since most guests would need to drive back home that night...we would just HIDE the bottle REALLY well where nobody was likely to look for anything. For a few years afterward, whenever I showed up, we would have a small sip of that stuff...sure wish I had the bottle to give more info on it, now!
  8. New member Old Cornwalls

    Just another example that true BEAUTY comes from the INSIDE, NOT THE OUTSIDE!
  9. Lascala amp requirements?

    Probably the CHEAPEST route you can take would be an old early to mid 1970's H/K 430 or 730 model twin-powered receiver. Their twin powering belies their 25 and 35 WPC RMS rating which was very conservatively rated to begin with. They sound marvelous with LaScalas, and have the OOMPF to rock the joint both inside and outside the house. Those who know will back this up, and a number of forum members KNOW! I had people over a mile away from me sitting out back on their patio enjoying some LaScalas back in the day with an H/K receiver that only pushed 32 WPC from that same era pushing a pair of Skalawags backed up to the rear of the house...it was a H/K 900+ model. The next Mondazy morning, when I got to work at Klipsch, the homeowner who lived over a mile away asked me: "Was that you and some outside Skalawags the other day?"...I said "yes"...he replied: "Not really MY KIND of MUSIC, but the wife and I sat out back on the patio with a pitcher of iced tea and enjoyed them for a couple of hours! How many watts was pushing them?"...I told him that the receiver was rated at 32 WPC, but the volume control never went past 9 o'clock or so"...and he laughed and said..."It sure doesn't take much to get those big horns busy does it?"...'nuff said!
  10. Heresy time capsule

    That view looks ALMOST the same as looking into the rear of my 2008 Kia Sportage! Except that I don't have as nice of a stereo system...LOL!
  11. New member Old Cornwalls

    Most likely because of one of two reasons: 1. One was built much earlier to be a part of a mono system, OR a supplemental speaker to one or a pair of K-horns, and the other was added later to make a stereo pair. This will likely be the case if one has a different ALPHABETICAL digit in the serial numbers with a difference of two years (letters) or more . 2. There was a change-over to the labels being used and they ran out of the old style after labeling one, and put one of the new style labels on the second one. This will be the case if they were consecutively-serial-numbered cabinets....or at least within a few numbers of being consecutively-numbered. The letter in the serial number (also stamped into the rear edge of the cabinet top) determines the year of manufacture for your particular Cornwalls.
  12. Removing Smoke Smell

    After you get it as clean as possible, put one of those boxes of baking soda behind it...the Arm & Hammer stuff for refrigerator odors...that box has a peel-off pad on it which has a cloth kinda thing that will allow the baking soda to eliminate any odors when the unit warms up. Having the box somewhere ABOVE (BUT, not right on top of) the upper venting of the unit will work even better.
  13. ACTUALLY, the best years for MOST of the Cornwalls each year are from 1977 thru September 1983...while I was building MOST OF THEM....LOL!
  14. Vinyl - Record Spinning

    Very sultry and smooth singer! Grew up listening to her stuff...my uncle Oz was a huge fan of hers...for good reason!
  15. 71st ANNIVERSARY TSHIRTS

    You have a PM from me.
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