Deang

Geepers Doug -- your'e slipping. Didn't you read the poor guys post? "I'm living in Belgium- Europe, and that doesn't make things easier. Buying in the USA is virtually impossible, because of the very high shipping costs, taxes and so on. In Europe these speakers aren't so widely spread, so chances to find them are much less."

Hussein's actions over the last few days have convinced me he's just a clown asking for it. What idiot would put his whole country at risk with this ridiculous postering?

I have $6.85

Due to problems related to compression in the bass as the volume goes up, the only sub(s) I would recommend are a set of SVS Ultras. You could then use your solid state amp to drive the subs, and get yourself about 50 tube watts to drive the Belles. You would need an external electronic crossover like the $400 HSU research product. All said and done -- you would be all said and done.

45 watts is NOT too much power for a set of K-horns. Did you ever get your preamp situation straightened out? I just think you need a low gain preamp.

If this fellow has a small room, and has them pushed into corners or against walls, it is possible he could be experiencing some imbalance. When I had the Heresies -- I thought the bass was evenly balanced. This coming from someone who is not really a bass freak. It is best to simply communicate your concerns to him. Have HIM check the drivers by simply turning the volume down and checking each driver by ear. Can you provide a link to the original eBay ad? Is it still available for viewing?

I'm still curious about cost and availability, and whether or not the little box has been tweaked, or comes as is? If the amp is grain free, it might be interesting to use it in a horizontal biamping situation just driving the horns. Of couse, I'm thinking of an application involving a decent two-way. Reducing the load on the amp might net even cleaner treble.

Craig, it's impossible to have a cable pass a signal "untouched". They all have variances in their electrical properties which shift the signature somewhat. The "right" cables are the ones that operate in a synergisitc manner with the rest of the gear. Ultimately, the tuning is to your own personal taste -- so there is no "right" cable when you get right down to it. Also, though resistance is primarily determined by cable length and thickness -- capacitance and inductance are not. The nature of these two is that as one goes up, the other comes down. low inductance is achieved by sandwhiching the positive and negative leads together as close as possible. However, when you do this -- capacitance skyrockets. The inverse is true as well, separate them out some, and inductance goes up, while capacitance drops. The Goertz speaker cable is the best I have ever heard in my system. The interconnects however, leave a lot to be desired. As far as trying the Scott on the RF-7's, I just didn't want to mess with doing another set of cables to make it work. One set of Goertz has spades on both ends (won't fit into the Scott terminal screw pads), and the other set was made to fit terminal screws on both ends. I gave all of my copper stranded to my dad for his JBL's. Kelly, The Superlatives from DIYcable, as well as the Risch designs were on my short list. However, I've got a substantial amount of silver over here. Remember those Music Metre's I bought from AudiogoN for $160? Since I didn't really prefer the sound over copper for the most part in the speaker cable role, I decided to tear one down and see what was underneath. What I found was six solid core strands of 20 gauge, five nine silver in each six foot cable. There are four cables, so what I have is 144 feet of 20 gauge silver. Gee, that's enough for 24 sets of interconnects. Wanna buy a set?

Seems Hussein has been following this thread -- he wants to 'debate' Bush.

Craig, I won't know if the RF-7's 'work' or not until I get Edmond's SLP-90/4 on Thursday. They are finished however. Upstairs system will be: Cary SLP-90/4, Quicksilver Mono-60's (60 watt, EL-34 based, running in ultralinear, with 12db of negative feedback), and the Sony 9000es. Speaker cables are Goertz, interconnects will end up being my version of the Chris Vanhaus DIY silvers. For now, I'll use my 550i's. The Quicksilvers are here, all hooked up and ready to go. They showed looking like new. I bought them from the original owner who evidently is as anal as I am when it comes to taking care of stuff. They are gorgeous. Downstairs will be the Cornwalls, Marantz DV-7010, and Scott. Again, Goertz speaker cable and 550i's until I finish my own interconnects. I haven't written a post on the Scott mostly because I just haven't had the time. I've been spending all of my time inside the Cornwalls, finishing the RF-7's, and as of late -- working on this second set of DQ-10's. I think most here know what I think about the Scott. I liked the first one you sent me enough to 'upgrade' to the 299B, and I just ordered the custom case for it from Marc in Canada. That case should be here by the end of the week. I also didn't want to write anything until I got things dialed in somewhat. I'm extremely high on the amp -- I think it's the bomb with the Cornwalls. I know you don't want to hear this, but Heritage and tubes are EXTREMELY reactive to cable changes. I've had both the silver and copper Goertz Mirc Purls between the Scott and Marantz. Even after the major improvement the tweaks gave me, I still felt there was a general lack of warmth. I couldn't figure out how the Cornwalls could be THAT different from the Heresies, and reacting to a gut feeling -- yanked the Goertz interconnects and put the Monster's back in. I'll just say that the Purls are going back to Alpha-Core, and the Monsters are staying in for now. A design that seems to work so well with their speaker cables, appears to be a complete downer with their interconnects. I must have read over a hundred archived posts at the Asylum, and finally stumbled across an interesting post by Jon Risch. Jon indicated that the lowest inductance possible between speakers and amp will usually sound the best, and the lowest capacitance possible will sound the best between source components. In other words -- lowest inductance possible with speaker cables and lowest capacitance possible with interconnects. The Goertz speaker cables are VERY low on the inductance side, but very high on the capacitance side. Good for speaker cable, bad for interconnects. As of last night, my ears agree with his assessment. Things are dialed in over here with Cornwalls and Scott -- and I'm really happy with the sound of this setup.

So what is the deal with this thing? Can you buy them this way, did Leo work his magic on it somehow? Where do you find them, and how much are they? A good candidate for very late night listening?

The Marantz isn't that bad. As far as mass market players go -- it's decent. Geez, it did originally list for $900, and hung fairly decently with both my old Anthem CD-1 and Sony 9000es. No more play money -- so this is it -- and 'it' is pretty damn good. Listening to Rush 'Permenant Waves' right now. Lot's of great compression. Leo's amp huh? 'Interesting' in the Chinese kind of way -- or just interesting?

Made you look. The Cornwalls are grooving big time. Enough caulk to cover a 747, good wire from Northcreek, and Kester 44 -- that's all it took. I did go back in and caulk the tweeter just for grins -- add that to the must do list.

Stay away from this guy -- he's bad news. Go get it Flynn:)

What I have is a 25 ohm variable resistor. The knob turned all the way to the left gives me 0 ohms. As I turn it to the right it goes up -- and maxes out at 25.1 ohms. So -- this is not an Lpad, correct?

Marvelous Marvel -- thanks, I got it.

So, I hook the driver leads to the lpad, and my multimeter leads to the legs of the lpad (one in the center and one on the left or right), and then turn the knob to see if impedance varies? Does the driver have to be under a load for this to work?

how can I tell if the pots on the back of my dq's are lpads or not?

I don't get the "7 strips" bit. The basket is cut up like a pie -- and there are 8 slices! I also caulked around the base of the magnet. See the picture at the beginning of the thread. With my ears -- the improvement was significant. This is quite something -- as I am very hard of hearing. Believe it or not -- I am starting to believe terminal strips are sonically superior to binding posts. There is simply less metal for the current to pass through. The only thing I did was clean them exceptionally well with alcohol.

There are two high level inputs (tuner, and 'extra' or aux) -- so yes, you could hook up two CD players. Retubing with standard, current production tubes, and a decent vintage rectifier tube would run in the neighborhood of $150. It's well worth it.

Any type of mass loading will be effective, and it doesn't really matter where you implement it. However, stacking things just looks tacky. Regarding my damping of the woofer basket, and Mark's approval of it - Kelly said: "Indeed, this is true, but not the cause of the harshness he is reporting. It will help in low end clarity at high volume.." Keep in mind that Klipsch takes the K-33 up to almost 700 Hz in the Cornwall. This is well into the midrange. The harshness and lack of coherency are a result of the lower and middle midrange becoming disconnected from the squawker output. Get out the rope caulk, damp the woofer, and then sling some solder by replacing the wonderfully oxidized dark green wire. Trust me on this. The improvement is substantial. You might even be tempted to toss those moondoggies and get an amp with some cojónes.

"I often find that people will often pay ridiculous amounts of dough for things..." Hmmm - I wonder why that is?

Shouldn't have posted this Leo, for now you know your mailbox will contain an endless trail of questions from yours truly.

LOL

A sub should have no problem matching speed -- as the speed of sound is a constant. Lame attempt at humor -- sorry.