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Deang

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Everything posted by Deang

  1. The KG series are NOT shielded. There are several ways to biamp - your way is not one of them. Horizontal Biamping: You have a set of speakers with birwiring capability. That is, each speaker has four 5-way binding posts on the back -- 2 for the high frequency driver (1 positive and 1 negative), and 2 for the low frequency driver (1 positive and 1 negative). You then use two amplifiers, and use one for the highs, and the other for the lows. Vertical Biamping: Same as above except you use one amp for the left channel, and the second amp for the right channel. You use two separate sets of speaker cables for each speaker, and then join the inputs of the amps together using "Y" connectors. Pro-Biamping This is where the frequencies going to the drivers are "split" in front of the amps. That is -- electronic crossovers are used in front of the amps and then the amps feed the drivers directly. HT-Biamping Simply adding a sub does this. The low frequencies are sent to the sub and the crossover sends everything else to the mains. Your Promedia system is a form of biamping, simply because it uses a sub and splits the signals. All biamping involves the idea of splitting the signals and moving them to the appropiate drivers. What you are describing is not "biamping". Whatever one chooses to call it -- I don't think it sounds like a good idea. Your Promedia system's amp resides inside the sub right? It is a 500 watt digital switching amp. There is ONE amp with dual power supplies. One feeds the sub and the other feeds the remaining 5 channels (you actually have 50 wpc). The nominal impedance of the SYSTEM is 4 ohms. What I believe is happening here is that the Promedia satellites are probably 8 ohms speakers, and when they are all hooked up to the amp -- the impedance drops to 4 ohms. It's what happens whenever you hook up multiple sets to an amp -- the impedance is halved. Now, if you hook up all 4 KG's -- you will still be at 4 ohms as far as that 2nd power supply in your sub is concerned. If you hook up just 2 KG's, your impedance will be 8 ohms, but your usable POWER will drop to around 34 wpc. So, if you hook 8 ohm speakers to an amp rated at 4 ohms, your power rating drops by about 1/3 -- and if you hook 4 ohm speakers to an 8 ohm rated amp, your power goes up about 1/3 of the rated power. If you use all 4 KG's in your situation, the danger is playing the system too loud and going into clipping and frying a tweeter. If you use 2 KG's and you drive it too hard, you risk melting down the amp in the sub. Either way, be cool and don't crank it too loud -- and scrape that money together for the receiver!! f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-23-2002 at 06:06 PM
  2. If they are not listening with super-efficient horns, I discount their opinions to the clearance rack.f>s> So what is ole Dickie Olsher using in the way of speakers theses days? Guess we can discount his opinions to the clearence rack too? My Anthem CD-1 used the Burr-Brown chips, excellent parts quality throughout, and a tubed output. Pricey unit too. The 9000ES ran circles around it. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-23-2002 at 06:40 PM
  3. The consensus at the Hi-Rez Highway Forum members at the Asylum is that many of these players emasculate the highs to get the players to sound warmer like analog. I didn't realize my Anthem was doing it until I started doing comparisons with my Marantz and Sony. These 'warmer' players may be a better choice with Heritage -- but I found the 9000ES much more engaging with the RF7's. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-23-2002 at 01:44 PM
  4. Ya know, I really hate reading your posts with all those floppydoodle guys jumping around. It's annoying as hell, and I can't think straight.f>s> I have the ProMedia 5.1's, and was hoping to be able to hook the KG-2.5's to the outs on my PM5.1 amp and use it with the sub and my computer. Well, the amp is 4 ohm per channel, and the speakers are 8 ohms.f>s> Let me get this straight. You are going to hook up 4 KG 2.5's to an amp designed to push itty bitty little computer speakers? It should actually work. Your impedence issue is a non-issue. The PM5.1 amp is rated at 4 ohms because it is designed to drive multiple sets of speakers -- which is exactly what you are doing anyways. Hooking two sets of 8 ohm speakers gives you 4 ohms -- which is what the amp is rated at.f>s> Also, the PM5.1 amp only puts out 60 watts per channel, and the KG-2.5's need 75-375. If I was to bi-amp them using two channels for each speaker, tis would correct the impedence issue and help with power... right?f>s> The power handling specification for the KG2.5 is 75 watts (maximum) and 375 watts PEAK. They don't NEED 75 watts. 75 watts is the most they can take. You have 60. We already dealt with impedence. You have 4 channels at 60 watts each. Also, I don't really understand your concept of biamping. Best not to try any bizarre wiring schemes with an amp already designed to run 4 speakers.f>s> Also, when the time comes for me to get a reciever, which one would suit these best? I guess it would have to be a 5.1 reciever, since I do have 2 pairs. How many watts per channel should I look for? What are some good ones that are fairly cheap... <$150f>s> Sorry, but this Sony is the best I can do for you. Good luck! f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-23-2002 at 11:58 AM
  5. That 'muffling' sound almost sounds like to me what you get when a horn becomes detached from the driver. When you compare left and right are they pretty much the same loudness? Also, with the exception of the 'distortion', do both speakers have pretty much the same sonic signature? If you are sure the horns in that channel are working properly -- then you probably ended up with a defective woofer. Call the Klipsch parts department and ask for Trey Cannon. He might let you send him the bad driver and send a new one back to you. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-23-2002 at 11:20 AM
  6. Certainly would trade my Perfect Audiophile Wife and music-loving family for one. I'm pretty sure you forget to insert the word "NOT". f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  7. I can't imagine ANY CD or DVD player being responsible for ANY noise. The Arcam unit seems to be a 'hot' favorite right now. But so is my player of choice, the Sony DVP-S9000ES. I believe you can still get these at www.JRmusicworld.com for less than $950 shipped. Do a search on this site for my review on this unit and also at www.audioasylum.com I consider both the 222ES and 9000ES to be killer units on Redbook, and you get SACD to boot. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-22-2002 at 03:29 PM
  8. Talk about poor etiquitte. I had a guy make me an offer of $975 yesterday morning and I accepted. He said since he lived in Cincinnati, he would come pick it up. So I emailed him directions to my house. I didn't hear anything back from him so I sent him another email asking him to let me know when he was coming. Nothing. So, another email late yesterday afternoon asking him if there was any chance he could come Sunday morning around 10A.M. because I had to be at work by noon. Nothing. So today I sent him ANOTHER email asking him to please respond so we could conclude the transaction. FINALLY he responds that he has changed his mind. I wrote back saying that since he made an offer and I accepted, backing out meant I was going to leave negative feedback. He responded that I wasn't allowed to do that because a "transaction" never took place. I said hogwash, and told him to read the whole thing. Criteria for feedback submission: Only transactions resulting from an Audiogon listing qualify for feedback submission. In addition, feedback may be submitted only if one of the following events have occurred: - Buyer winning a bid at auction, if reserve is met. - Seller receiving a bid at auction above reserve price. - Buyer sending payment to a seller in a verifiable form. - Seller shipping an item to a buyer in a track-able manner. Feedback should be left after your transaction has reached some form of finality (delivery, cancellation, attempted settlement, etc). You may submit at most one feedback per transaction, so wait until it is completed. I also took him to AudiogoN Expected Etiquette: under Making offers: Some items may be listed as Or Best Offer (obo), where you may make offers. This is less strictly defined than the auctions, but we offer some guidelines. If you make an offer, you should be ready to follow through, if your offer is accepted within 24 hours. This kind of thing has gotten completely out of hand on AudiogoN. I feel like the only way to weed these people out is to discourage them from using AudiogoN as an on-line sales tool. The only way to do that is with negative feedback. Since this person finally apologized, was 'new' and had two positives -- I told him I would let it slide, but asked him NOT to do this anymore. f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> AES Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-22-2002 at 03:15 PM
  9. Why not just look inside the one that sounds 'right', and compare the wiring and parts makeup to the one that sounds 'wrong'? ------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  10. Placement, in relation to the room, may account as much or more in differences between the left and right channel than the crossovers. ------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  11. That's the old horn sound Man, they're supposed to sound that way ------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  12. Well, since you like the sound of the Creek, buy the SE version. These also show up at audiogoN quite often. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-21-2002 at 01:14 PM
  13. With all the great used equipment available at AudiogoN -- you can afford to go with separates. Why are you set on an integrated amp? Creek uses passive preamp sections which I have decided I am not a big fan of. The lack of gain and buffering lends itself to a somewhat dry and sterile presentation. Would you consider something with tubes? Your RB5's would love you. I've had my eye on this Cary SLI-50 for a while, and frankly, I can't believe it hasn't sold yet. The Bryston BR60 is also a killer unit if you want to stick with solid state. Personally, I would go with the Cary. If you want to consider going the separates route, I'm still very fond of the Anthem products. The Anthem Amp1 (40 tube watts) and Pre2L matching preamp can both be had together for around $1100 (used). The point is -- you can really make your money stretch buying used gear. Why don't you go to www.audiogon.com and look around. Audiogon is for the most part a high end user community made up of people who take great pride in taking care of their equipment. I have made almost a dozen transactions and have never been disappointed. Didn't leave much for a sub did I? Well, you can always get a sub down the road. I had RB5's for two years, I can tell you that with careful placement, they do very well. I would put my money into the front end gear. What good is a sub if you end up unsatisfied with the other 90% of the sound? f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-21-2002 at 12:03 PM
  14. If you want your cake and eat it too you are going to have to take it to the next level. The HD600's are still King in my book. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-21-2002 at 11:25 AM
  15. I had the complete opposite experience. I replaced my $1700 Anthem CD-1 with a Sony 9000es -- and found the sound from the 9000es much more engaging and transparent. The Anthem was 6 years old, and I attribute the difference to the newer DAC's. All the newer players, regardless of make -- are light years ahead of previous offerings. How old is your dvd player? ------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  16. If you are confident that you are really getting what you are expecting to get (as far as condition and parts) then yea, you should probably do it. If you don't, you'll always wonder if you should have. Once you have them set up, you might want to consider killing the baseboard heater on that side of the room so the cabinet doesn't become damaged over time. Just move a tube amp to that side of the room. I use mine to heat the whole 2nd floor. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  17. Agreed. This sounds like something electrical in the house is causing it. I've played hundreds of rented DVD's, and have never encountered this problem even once.f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  18. The math is not very difficult. It takes a doubling of power to get a 3db increase, and it takes a tenfold increase in power to double the sound pressure level, or a 10db increase. Heresy II 001 watt @ 3 feet = 097db 010 watts@ 3 feet = 107db 100 watts@ 3 feet = 117db Klipschorn 001 watt @ 3 feet = 104db 010 watts@ 3 feet = 114db 100 watts@ 3 feet = 124db I'm stumped too. The math on the cut sheets is wrong. Doesn't surprise me. If you look at the cut sheet for the LaScala, it says construction is Birch ply and MDF. However, I sent an email to some folks at Klipsch asking about the MDF in the LaScala and I was assured there is NO MDF. The frequency response measurement for the Heresy II IS odd. The only explanation for that would be if they took the measurement with the speaker practically sitting in the middle of the room. We KNOW the Heresy goes lower than 63Hz. Beats me f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-20-2002 at 10:48 PM
  19. Welcome back Forrest. Kain -- go with God. ------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  20. The last time I checked I saw Mullard EL-34's for $375 PER TUBE. I guess there are more CV4004's around then EL-34's? Where did you get your EL-84's? I am going to need a couple myself. ------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-20-2002 at 06:14 PM
  21. No doubt -- I went bankrupt just doing NOS for my drivers. What did a quad of Mullard output tubes run you, if you don't mind me asking. ------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  22. In spite of what others might say -- I think you would find the additional power of the Super Amp beneficial in the long run. The HSU crossover does NOT have an adjustable crossover per se. It uses little plug in modules that connect directly into the ciruit board. You would order it with your desired crossover, and HSU would install the appropriate modules. Additional modules are $15 a piece and you need them in pairs (high pass and low pass). They are quite easy to change out. Yes, since you are effectively biamping -- you are alleviating the necessity of your amp to play the low frequencies -- this increases the amps headroom. The lower the crossover point the better. Let your Scalas do what they were designed to do. You don't want to rob from the LaScala's horn loaded bass. I would go with 51Hz and simply try to extend the bass response. f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-20-2002 at 01:31 PM
  23. Yeah, it would sure break my heart if I had to keep it and biamp.f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  24. Now c'mon. Someone from this forum HAS to buy this amp. No one else owns speakers that can even begin to appreciate what she can do. So, who's it gonna be? f>s>------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s>
  25. You saidNot quite sure what you are telling me here. At present, I run an RCA cable from my Denon Sub preout into the Samson channel 1 input with a 1/4" TRS plug on the end of it... Of course you don't understand what I'm saying -- it's because I told you wrong. The 'Y' cable goes on the RCA end of your SVS cable and will plug in the L/R outputs for you low pass section of the crossover. It's probably easier if I just show you. Click on the Pic. As far as your other question goes, I'm not quite sure. I suppose you could get another cable from SVS and come off of your HT system into the other, non-used channel of your Samson -- and just use the volume control on the front of the Samson corresponding to the system you want to use the sub for. This is a good question for Boa, or TV himself. You could email Tom at SVS -- he would know for sure. It should work though. Did you see that my Super Amp is for sale? f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> Cary AE-25 * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-20-2002 at 09:31 AM
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