Deang
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Posts posted by Deang
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You gonna kill yourself trying to lift a 95 LB speaker into that cabinet. I'm not even sure if those shelves can hold the weight without putting substantial strain on the joints. Two RF7's weigh almost 200 LBS. Add the RC7 and you're up to almost 250 LBS.
I used RC7's in the L/R configuration for almost a year, and they are a dandy speaker. The only thing you will lose by not going with the RF7 is some low end extension and some dynamics (but not much). Since you have a sub -- the bass issue is mute for the most part.
Also - RF7's in that cabinet would create substantial 'boom' for they definitely need some room to breathe.
Three RC7's would not only sound great but I think it would look better also.
I wouldn't stress over the port issue. There are two ports on the RC7 (behind each woofer) and they are fairly small in diameter. The ports are tuned to provide some extra extenion in the lower bass, and even with that -- they only go down to 45HZ. If you cross your sub at 80HZ -- the ports for the most part become a non-issue.
If you are still concerned -- just buy some nice black acoustic foam at Radio Shack, cut it to size, and wall the back each shelf with it. If you take your time -- it would look really sharp.
The ideal solution would be to get the RF7's and place them in front of the cabinet and deal with the inconvience of having to walk around them -- but that's me.
Three RC7's would certainly bring the house down and they will definitely sound better than anything else you could possibly buy -- unless you got SERIOUS money.
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dean
This message has been edited by deang on 03-30-2002 at 06:39 PM
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Per Mobile and Mdeneens suggestion -- I moved my RF7's 3 feet from the back wall and spread them out an additional 2 feet - they are now 8 feet apart and I am 11 feet away from them.
Spreading them out in this way places them 27 inches from each side wall.
They are toed in quite a bit, with the horns pointed right at my head.
Image width is certainly tremendous, and the speakers have become completely invisible -- what a fry.
I expected there to be a 'hole' in middle, but that is not what happened.
At any rate -- in spite of the fantastic width of image -- the presentation is now a little more incisive than I prefer, and I am wondering if this is due to the speakers being moved so far out from the back wall -- I think that extra foot out cost me some bass -- which is accounting for the treble sounding a little more forward. Doesn't a ported speaker need to be closer to the back wall to get the proper bass output?
I'm also wondering how close to the side walls I can go. With a horned speaker -- what is the proper setup formula? That is, if I'm 11 feet back -- how far apart SHOULD they be?
I had always read that speakers should be 1/2 the distance apart from each other as you are away from them. This doesn't seem to be the case with horns.
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dean
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dean
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I moved my RF7's 3 feet from the back wall and spread them out an additional 2 feet - they are now 8 feet apart and I am 11 feet away from them.
Spreading them out in this way places them 27 inches from each side wall.
They are toed in quite a bit, with the horns pointed right at my head.
Image width is certainly tremendous, and the speakers have become completely invisible -- what a fry.
I expected there to be a 'hole' in middle, but that is not what happened.
At any rate -- in spite of the fantastic width of image -- the presentation is now a little more incisive than I prefer, and I am wondering if this is due to the speakers being moved so far out from the back wall -- I think that extra foot out cost me some bass -- which is accounting for the treble sounding a little more forward. Doesn't a ported speaker need to be closer to the back wall to get the proper bass output?
I'm also wondering how close to the side walls I can go. With a horned speaker -- what is the proper setup formula? That is, if I'm 11 feet back -- how far apart SHOULD they be?
I had always read that speakers should be 1/2 the distance apart from each other as you are away from them. This doesn't seem to be the case with horns.
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dean
This message has been edited by deang on 03-30-2002 at 05:42 PM
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Klipsch found it impractical to market the product due to it's elaborate cabinet design and associated price.
The drivers utilized in Reference however -- benefited directly from the R&D done for the project. Quite a bit of trickle down as I understand it.
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dean
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Isn't the Eico an integrated amp?
I only ask this because your AE-25 is being used with the AE-3 preamp. My limited experience so far has shown me that a preamp has as much to do with the sound as the amp if not more.
I was running my Superamp with just a volume control the first week I had it. When I put my Sonic Frontiers Line 1 in the loop - there was a dramatic change in signature. The sound wasn't as incisive and I felt it was better balanced from top to bottom.
My guess is the Eico is a little rolled off at the top which is taming that awful Heritage treble
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dean
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They say you flip the switch on the back of the sub and the setting that sounds the 'loudest' is the proper setting --
-- but what if you can't really tell?
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dean
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I like mine -- so far so good
It's a kick *** HT sub and I use it to reinforce the bottom of my RF7's when listening to music
it's not muddy sounding -- nice punchy SOB it is
Depending on how big your room is -- you might consider getting two
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dean
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The Spirit of Julian Hirsch Lives!!
Remember -- amplifiers sound idenitical as well as CD players.
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dean
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I used to have the RB5's before I upgraded. I started with 12 gauge zip cord, then to some Monster cable, followed with a set of MIT 4's. I then birwired, putting the Monsters on the woofers and the MIT 4's on the tweeters. When I finally finished my upgrade path to the RF7's -- I bought some MIT Biwire 2's from www.AudioAdvisor.com for about $250 (half off).
Each cable 'upgrade' created noticeable approvement in the treble. When I went to the MIT 2's -- I noticed the bass firm up. Since I don't have much of a imagination, I can only believe it was the cable.
Personally -- I think MIT cable and horns work very well together.
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dean
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Big Room
Don't even think about attempting to fill it with realistic, theater levels of sound with anything but a horn system.
I just have ONE set of RF7's for HT -- and it is nothing short of outstanding.
It's the bass where you will have problems because of the size of the room. Definitely go with a pair of SVS ultra's. If you start running out of money -- just go with RF5's for the surround channels -- or even RF3 II's or RB5 II's. Don't cheat the bass though --
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dean
This message has been edited by deang on 03-30-2002 at 10:17 AM
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MIT
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dean
This message has been edited by deang on 03-30-2002 at 10:05 AM
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I just think it's really tough to get the bottom end to match up perfectly with the top (efficiency wise) unless one goes with horn loaded bass or multiple, massive subs.
Personally, I like the balance of the RF7 -- I can't stand a fat, bloated bass, which is so often found with the majority of towers -- even very expensive ones.
I wouldn't trade the tightness and sense of speed of the RF7 for anything out there --
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dean
This message has been edited by deang on 03-29-2002 at 08:17 PM
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good post -
hey josh - i don't think it's trolling when a person decides to post something based on a unique experience. I found the post interesting. Not everyone here has taken the time to actually do a A/B comparison in such a manner.
My only concern would be the quality of the wire used in the switching circuit. If the switching electronics are el cheapo -- than it seems more than possible that one would not be able to hear the benefits of a better cable. In other words -- there would be a masking effect.
Although I believe there is a difference -- I don't think the difference between cables is all that noticable at the lower SPL's -- I actually don't hear a difference at all until I put the juice to the speakers -- it's in the treble where I notice a little less grain as compared to a cheap speaker cable.
I would certainly have to agree that the change in sonics are greatly exaggerated.
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dean
This message has been edited by deang on 03-29-2002 at 08:10 PM
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So far just the stock Chinese KT-88's, Sovtek 6922's, and them other two - what the hell are they - can't remember - I'd have to go upstairs and look. Doesn't matter -- I'll be rolling the tubes next month. At any rate, sounds perty good.
Kelly -- My listening position is 11 feet from the front of the speakers. I have them 5 1/2 feet apart for that reason. Two feet from the back wall and two feet in from each side wall. Any closer and I could quit using headphones
Think I should still spread them out??
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dean
This message has been edited by deang on 03-20-2002 at 01:28 AM
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I'm leaving for Germany tomorrow afternoon because of the death of my Uncle on my Mother's side. I'll be gone until the 28th and will miss the Klipsch Forum/members. Y'all be good.
Since everyone was so gracious taking the time to teach me how to post pictures -- I thought I would attach some jpegs of my listening room & system.
Many thanks to Mobile and Mdeneen for all the great posts regarding tube amps.
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dean
This message has been edited by deang on 03-20-2002 at 01:23 AM
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This amp is a EL-34 based tube amp running in the ultralinear cofiguration. It is rated at 40 wpc. The amp is absolutely mint with tubes less than a year old.
If you have always wondered what all the fuss is about this is a great opportunity to find out.
It's a smooth rich sound with a soundstage that extends beyond the front baffle of the speaker.
Retail is $1400 -- I will let it go for $525
email me at dean.wescott@wpafb.af.mil
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dean
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I'm selling my Bryston 3B-ST. The unit is 7 months old and mint. It is rated at 120 wpc and can be bridged. It is not the end all in solid state -- but close. It would take a fat wallet or tubes to best it.
Retail is $1890 - I will let it go for $975
email me at dean.wescott@wpafb.af.mil
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dean
This message has been edited by deang on 03-19-2002 at 01:23 PM
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kewl
thanks everyone!
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dean
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hmm
but aren't the connectors on the shakers made for speaker cable?
I'm using the 2nd main outs on my preamp to the low level inputs of my sub.
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dean
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I'm seriously toying with the idea of getting a pair of these (they come in pairs)
I found several more powerful offerings, but I'm not really interested in anything that needs to be mounted to the joists for the purposes of shaking the whole floor. I just want to mount them to the bottom of my recliner. For that -- the Aura Bass Shakers will suffice.
I read the manual but I have several questions.
1. The manual says nothing about a crossover. One would assume you need a crossover -- yet nothing is said regarding them.
2. I understand I need a dedicated 50 watt amp. No problem. But how am I supposed to wire it if I'm already using both mains outs on my preamp for my 2 channel amp and my subwoofer (line level inputs).
Any clue on these things?
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dean
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I wanna be smart like Mlstrass
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dean
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how does one 'degauss' a picture tube?
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dean
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now jim you be the original ramblin man
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dean
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Yep
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dean
Eico HF-81 Challenges The AES SuperAmp !
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
Aren't you just the busy one! Jeepers.
I really, really, like my Superamp. I can even live with the Chinese KT88's. It's such a quick sound. I don't know how else to explain it.
My Bryston is sitting on the floor now on top of my Anthem. No one will buy them and I have absolutely no idea what to do with them.
The last time I put the Bryston in the system it lasted but a 1/2 an hour. I guess I'm just hooked on the sound of all that even-ordered distortion.
Someday I might even upgrade to amp that has even more distortion.
GIVE ME DISTORTION!!
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dean