meuge
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Posts posted by meuge
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No. The impedance level is not matched to a low-level RCA input. The sub amp does not have the gain to be able to take a low-level input, thus even at maximum boost the sub will simply be too quiet.
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They look amazing. I'd get these for my parents if they were available.
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Quoted from Slashdot:
Newest Commissioner Deborah Tate has apparently announced that while she knows its outside the FCC's authority, she's aand hopes to use her new position as a "bully pulpit" on the topic.Now is it just me, or is this just the next logical step in the continued bribing of government officials by the RIAA/MPAA? I file this under the next "broadcast flag" initiative, which,despite being struck as illegal on FCCs part last year, is likely to come back with the new FCC chair.
Maybe I am misunderstanding something, but I don't think that it's the function of the FCC to force the consumers to abide by RIAAs failed business model of beating their customers into obeying their every whim.
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Try an SVS PB-10 I guess. Unless you're comfortable getting used subs, this will probably be a very good sub... and it should be able to keep up with RF-3s at moderate listening levels.
P.S. Getting a 2.1 as a gateway to more is not ghetto - it's what most people do, unless they've been able to dedicate a large sum to buy everything at once.
P.P.S. If you're within 4-5 hours of the NYC area, my RF-3IIs are for sale.
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I think you should forget about satellites, because the regular satellites don't fit on the Promedia stands anyway.
If I were you, I'd get a set of 25s (or their new replacements, don't remember the model numbers) all around. They are wonderful little speakers. Get the 4x RB-25s, and 1 RC-25... then buy a Panasonic XR-70S digital receiver, and spend whatever money is left on the subwoofer.
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If you want the maximum yield from your remaining budget, I'd sell the
RW-10, and purchase a Dayton Titanic 15" kit. For just over $600,
you'll get an amazing sub... which could be compared to at least an
RSW-12, if not the 15. For home theater, it will be a change you'll
have to feel and hear to believe.
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The RB75's would have blown the curve!!!!
They would've blown the price range by a factor of 3X too.
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Looking for opinions on the best BIG display
I can get that doesn't have those two horrid vertical trinitron
lines. I believe that excludes any aperature grille monitor over
17" ? I'm looking at a viewsonic 21" shadow mask monitor and the
dell 24" LCD right now but I just want a BIG display for gaming.
The new Dell 3007 is coming at the end of December: 30" of LCD glory.
http://www.engadget.com/entry/1234000240070831/
2560 x 1600 resolution (>1080p), 12ms response rate, etc....
Will likely sell between $1500-2000.
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I
have Reference 35 series and SVS sub (5.1) for my HT setup. I plan to
use the same speakers and HDTV when my Xbox360 arrives and will
be used exclusively for gaming.
Basically, I'm wary of using my reference series for gaming because it
might affect them in some way or another. Has anyone used them as such
and lived to regret it after or is there no cause for concern at all?
TIA
Don't worry - you won't hurt your speakers. Use an optical-out from the Xbox into your HT and you'll be blown away.
Great!! - exactly what I wanted to hear! Tnx.
The only thing I have to admit, is that for first-person-shooters,
headphones work best. They may not sound as good, but they're better
for hearing and localizing the enemy footsteps.
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I have Reference 35 series and SVS sub (5.1) for my HT setup. I plan to
use the same speakers and HDTV when my Xbox360 arrives and will
be used exclusively for gaming.
Basically, I'm wary of using my reference series for gaming because it
might affect them in some way or another. Has anyone used them as such
and lived to regret it after or is there no cause for concern at all?
TIA
Don't worry - you won't hurt your speakers. Use an optical-out from the Xbox into your HT and you'll be blown away.
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Cool stuff Shade I will have to check it out
more. I was actually reading on the one site how to underclock. I want
to overclock, but interesting to read regardless. Some interesting
reads in there for sure. Damn Meuge your an overclocking guru.
Thanks. I did have the fastest Pentium4/Geforce3 (below 2.5GHz) system
in the world. I had my P4 1.6A overclocked to 2.48GHz (55% overclock),
and my Ti200 overclocked over 20% on both memory and GPU. Took me over
3 months to get there, but I did get the top spot in the category on
3DMark2001.
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Yeah, I was dropping the HTT and mem when I was seeing how far the CPU
would go. I just wasn't sure about increasing the voltage. Never went
past 1.425 volts, so I couldn't get past 2.6ghz. I'll try this again later
in the week with higher CPU voltage and see where it gets me. I'm just
concerned about higher voltages bringing up the temps. If 2.7 ghz &
higher voltage brings high temps to where I have to put the panaflos
back in there, I just settle at a slightly slower clock.
My memory is rated at 2-3-3-6 1T, and I had brought it up to 2-3-3-7 1T
once I started to bring the speeds up. Can the memory be run at lower
timings than what they're rated for?
Yes, the memory, just like the CPU, can be underclocked with no adverse consequences.
As far as your cooling, the XP-120 should really be able to take care
of ANY overclock, with almost any voltage. I doubt your load temps will
go past 55C regardless of what you do.
Actually, I am thinking that you might not have seated it correctly, or
didn't use the right amount of thermal compound... or perhaps it's a
bad thermal compound. My friend has his Venice 3800+ at 2.5GHz at 1.5V,
and his load temperatures don't break 50C. He's only using an XP-90
though... with an 80mm fan. So the fact that that much larger XP-120,
with a fan that blows significantly more air, is not doing the job,
makes me think that perhaps something isn't totally right with the
mounting.
I tried 1.5V as well, with 2 cores, and my temperatures still didn't break 55C at full load.
Also, see what the temperature in your case is - do you have fans
blowing in as well as out? Depending on your cooling bias (intake vs.
outflow), you may want to reverse the fan on the XP-120 to suck the air
out of the heatsink, rather than blow onto it.
That being said, you might very well have hit the wall at 256MHz.
Actually, that's roughly where my friend's CPU stops OCing well. If you
notice, as you're raising the voltage, that more volts are not allowing
your CPU to go higher, then just stick to 250MHz, since you've hit a
dead end. That's still a very respectable 25% overclock.
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Thanks Meuge, I'll let you know how far I can get.
My overnight test with the Prime95 torture test went fine at 2.56ghz.
Full load temps peaked around 54c on the CPU & 42c for the system.
This was with the fans on low, only pushing around 39cfm. The higher
settings can push 56 - 79cfm, but they get louder. Not nearly as loud
as the Panaflo's I had in there, but still a bit louder than I care
for. I know if I increase the CPU voltage I'm going to have to turn
these fans up.
Hopefully I can reach 2.7 with this chip. Unfortunatley I think that
I'll have to settle on 2.5 -2.6 to keep the temps & noise level in
check. Either way, it'll be fun [
]One thing I'm wondering is what an overclocked CPU's performance
compares to in the Athlon 64 line. The 3800+ runs at 2.4ghz, and I'm
already past that. And the FX's have twice the L2 cache, so theres no
direct comparison there. Just kinda curious as there's something
satisfying about making a $150 CPU run faster than a $280 CPU.
The reason why I am saying that you should drop the HTT and memory
multipliers (as well as memory timings) is because you want to find the
max overclock of your CPU without having the rest of the variables get
in the way. Once you find the max stable clock, then you can go back
and set the HTT such that HTT multiplier * Bus speed is less or equal
to 1000MHz. Then you play with the memory timings and bandwidth. I,
personally, prefer tighter timings with lower bandwidth. This
combination will always win, unless loose timings allow you to run
1:1 with the CPU, which I guarantee that your memory cannot do
already. Try to get the timings as close to 2-2-5-2 1T as possible,
regardless of the frequency.
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Meuge, thanks for the guide. I spent the better part of this evening
playing around with the PC. Here's where I'm at right now :
CPU : 2.56 ghz, 1.4v
Mem : 2-3-3-7 1T timings, 5:6 memory divider putting the DDR at 425mhz
HT : 1024
Turned out the memory was the problem going past 2.2ghz. It kept having
issues past an FSB of 220. I got it to 225 by increasing the voltage to
2.75v. Was a bit leary of increasing the voltage, so I backed it back
down to 220 @ 2.6v.
Don't worry about volting the memory. Up to 2.9V should be fine, over
that - it would need heatspreaders... but below that, the air from the
XP-120 will cool them just fine.
I'm planning to run a stress test on it overnight to see how it holds
up. While this is around the speed I was hoping for, it's tempting to
go a bit further as I'm still at stock voltages. From what I've read,
1.5 - 1.55v on the CPU & 2.8 - 2.9v on the memory is supposed to be
fairly safe. Is this about right?
1.55V CPU is about the highest I would go, and you're right on the memory.
If the extra voltage is fairly safe, I might be able to try for 2.6 -
2.7 ghz and barely keep the 5:6 mem divider. Let me know what you
think.
Drop the HTT divider to 3X, then drop memory to 3/4 or even 2/3, and
use Clockgen to see how far you can get, while still being able to
finish 1M test on SuperPi. When you freeze, just up your CPU voltage,
restart, and see how much higher you can do. Once you're at 1.5V, and
you crash, go back into the BIOS, drop the bus frequency 2-3Hz, and
you're good to go.
Use the Prime95 Torture test overnight to test stability. (I prefer Sandra burn-in though)
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Been building my own PCs for a long time now, but this is the first
time I've tried out overclocking. Right now I've got it at 2.2ghz with
2-3-3-7 1T memory timings. I'd like to get it up to 2.4 - 2.6, but have
been having trouble getting over 2.2. Been reading a lot of guides
online, trying learn a bit more. This one looks pretty helpfull,
http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=28&threadid=1497607&enterthread=y
, just haven't had the time to go through all the steps yet. I'd
appreciate any info you'd be willing to throw my way.
On a side note, I first set this up with 2 Panaflo 120mm 86cfm fans
(cpu heatsink & exhaust). The PC sounded like a wind tunnel. Temps
were great, in the low 30c range. Way too loud for the living room
though. Replaced them with some Antec tri-cools. Temps are in the high
30c to low 40c range now, but it's a lot quieter. Now I just need an
NVSilencer for the video card.
Here's a comprehensive AMD64 Overclocking guide, that is short and easy to use:
As far as the 120mm Panaflos, they are not meant to be used at full
speed, but rather with a fan controller. You can also physically alter
their voltage by moving the wires in the 4-pin connectors. Normally, I
get Panaflo fans, but of the L1A variety, not the M1A or H1A - the
quietest, slowest kind... and they are usually virtually inaudible.
Your temperatures are excellent, and you shouldn't worry about it. Just
follow the steps in the guide and you should easily and safely be able
to get to 2.5GHz or so.
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Correction Nvidia's 7800(GT and GTX) are pretty
much equal to ATI's best(1800XLand XT).Nvidia's advantage is you can
find a 7800GTX easy and the X1800XT is not an easy find at the moment.
I just got my X1800XT [
] he heNow all I need is the Crossfire X1800XT and the board(on order) and I am set. [
]What are you going to do with your 2 GTXs?
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Very nice choice of components. Make sure not to forget to the the free Call Of Duty 2 with the eVGA card.
P.S. Venice 3200+ should easily be able to do 25% more, as in 2.5GHz (from 2.0 stock) at 1.4-1.45V...
If you're lucky, and you can do 2.5GHz on stock, you're likely to be able to get to 2.8.
I don't know how much experience you have with overclocking, but even
if you haven't done it, you should, since it's free performance and not
dangerous, as long as you follow directions. If you haven't done it or
need help, let me know.
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I was thinking of getting this and wonder if anyone owns one?
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16827131351
The DVD burning is actually less important to me than drive speed, I like to be able to install things fast.
That's a lot of money. Forget this one, and get the NEC-3540 DL DVD-RW
instead. Only $35 and it's about as fast as optical drives get.
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Picked up a Geforce 7800 GT OC
today. This has got to be about 5x faster than my previous
card. Will pick up FEAR next weekend.
Congratulations! I am sure you'll really enjoy it - it's a great card,
especially for the money. Don't forget to get a Zalman cooler for it
and overclock the hell out of it. A lot of GTs go almost as high as
GTXs when overclocked, but they run really hot, so they require extra
cooling. But $30 in cooling is a cheap price to pay for $130+ in
performance.
Just built a system for my friend using one. Got him an Athlon64 Venice
3200+, running at 2.5GHz (from 2.0GHz default), on an EPoX 9NPA+ Ultra
board, with 2GB of PC3200 RAM. Seems to run games noticeably faster
than my rig.
On the other hand, I can encode a DVD in under 15 minutes, hehe.
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The amp is another $200, I believe.Dayton Titanic III Kit
2 Hours of work, and a heck of a lot of sub for the money.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-764
$688 with FREE SHIPPING.
I doubt anything under $1000 can touch it.
if you're going the DIY route, why not just buy that 15" titanic sub for $200 and put together the enclosure yourself? i'm sure the amp isn't worth another $400.
I think the reason to get the kit would be to save yourself a lot of trouble. I don't have a workshop and the tools required in order to construct an enclosure, but if he does, then by all means full DIY is the way to go for the best customization and price/performance ratio. But if you go totally DIY, then there are probably better drivers out there than the Titanic.
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I don't know. I haven't used an Nvidia card since I got my 9800Pro a year ago (Used a Geforce 4 4600 before then). Try this forum for your question:
It is the forum of the makers of 3DMark software, and the collective knowledge of the forum encompasses pretty much all an enthusiast needs to know about computer hardware.
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Meuge thanks, I dont' think I would be going
with the nforce 4 chip even though I want to. It's I cannot find a mobo
that will still take my agp 6600 gt vid card. I still like that card
and it will save me some dough for now. I did find this one though.
http://www.asrockamerica.com/Products/939DSATA2.htm
I
figured this and the venice core 3200+ is the best bang for the buck
while still using my current vid card. I can upgrade to pci express
down the road with this board and up my hardrive. I will never go SLI.
I can barely afford one vid card as it is.
220.00 dollar upgrade shipped from, newegg
This motherboard is supposed to be quite good, from what I hear. You're
right. The ASRock and the 3200 Venice for $150 is the best deal you can
get at this time, upgrade-wise.
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meuge, hows that video card working out for you? Get a chance to unlock it to the higer speeds yet?
I've tried a couple of games lately that my 9600XT can't handle, so
I've got the upgrade bug. Pretty much setlled on a Venice core 3200+,
but not sure about the video card yet. I've been considering either an
x850 pro or an x800 XL, but getting that Sapphire and unlocking it is
pretty tempting. Any problems with artifacts, etc.?
It unlocked to 16 pipes fine, and I have it at 520/1100(550DDR) right now, which is faster than a stock X800XT.
However, X800GTO2 is no longer available and will never be available
again... they new ones have the extra pipes laser cut and they are
called X800GTO2L.
Your best bet is to save up the $330 you need for an Nvidia 7800GT. ATI
is at a loss in pretty much every price bracket at this time (the GTO2
was an obvious exception).
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FS: 19" NEC LCD Monitor - $150
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
I know it's kind of unusual to see a monitor being sold here, but I figured that since I got so many good deals here, I'll put it up here, just in case someone wants it.
The monitor is a black NEC 1960NX, 1280x1024, excellent response rate, excellent condition (no scratches that I know of, and no broken pixels). I have the original box (somewhere), and will ship (you pay exact cost), or meet/deliver/etc... if in the NY area.
Let me know.