swissy

Sorry, RB's are going to stay. I have decided to move them to an office area. However, the center is still good to go.

I am remodeling my home theater and that means it's time to upgrade. I have an RC-25 (black) and a pair of RB-35 (cherry). They are in great condition, unfortunately the wife threw away the boxes after our move. I even have some basic speaker stands that go nice with the RB-35 that I could throw in. RB's sold in pair only. I like to give first dibs to people who care about Klipsch, but E-bay after the first of the year. E-mail if you have an interest or would like some pictures.

Ill try to give an objective opinion. Many here think Bose is the devil. For me, maybe not the Devil, but at least his hyped second cousin. To be honest, I think some follow the crowd and cannot really hear the difference but figure it is cool to bash Bose. (This is not everyone here, just a few) Bose has some speakers that are a nice mid range quality. However, they price and advertise them as the highest quality available. As most here will point out, this is not the case. Yes, Klipsch will outperform them and their bass modules are sad, but their higher end speakers are not so bad that I would put them in a KLH type category. (Im sure people here will differ with me). For instance, I do like their VC-10 (?) center for its form factor. However, if you can get away from looks, as most of us do for our subs, it can be outperformed by any Klipsch center and probably most true high-end systems for the same money. ---------------- On 1/18/2004 10:06:48 PM fzzytddybr1 wrote: Will a bose system power up a 30 by 20 room? ---------------- The answer is yes and no. You did not give any specifications on the system you are looking at. It is possible to power the room no matter what the people here say. However, quality is another matter. I would always ditch their sub and put in something that can make up for the deficiencies in the speaker ranges. I would not put any of their cube systems in that size room. Antagon is right, go the store and listen to the Bose and Klipsch or any other nice speaker system side by side and you probably will hear the difference. Remember, even if you try the Acoustimass and Quintets and can here a difference, neither of these is going to do a great job in that size room. One might be better, but still not good enough to really power the room. Good luck and take the advice thats given all the time. Use you ears, they will tell you what _you_ like better.

Great post Frankie. I forgot about the SVS (I can't beleive that!). You are right. The cylinder subs are great and if you don't care about the size, they are probably the best value.

I would say, look at the Rava by Adire Audio. I use their DPL12 driver in my DIY and it sounds great in a 54 Liter box. (The Rava is about 60L). It was great on music and pulls double duty on HT with ease. I changed to a ported 85L because I am using it for HT, but the results are still great for music. But of you were going to go the music route, stick with one of the sealed subs. BTW, the best part about the rave, $400. I almost bought an RW-10 to go with my RB-35, but decided, for the money I could build a better sub. With the help of Dan at Adire and Kyle at www.acoustic-visions.com I was able to easily make my own and not feel any regret. If you have the time and a little ambition, you can make a sub just to your liking. Or, you can use the tried and tested designs (like I did) from Adire Audio. But if DIY isnt your thing, The Rava is worth looking at. Adire Audio Acoustic Visions

Holy cow! RS-25's for $300 from an authorized dealer? ****** those up. There will not be a better deal than that. Unless you could get the 35's for $400, but that would be a big stretch.

I would like to be next in line if the money order doesn't arrive. I have been looking for 25's but 35's would be awesome!

My old dog's breed. Since he died in 99 and I had this name on other forums, I just use it when my normal name is not required.

If I remember correctly, the U-75R is a UHF only antenna. You may want to make sure that your stations are all UHF. (Im sure you already know this) I have a Winegard PR-8800 because I live in a more rural area. Winegard makes great antennas. Of the three RS I tried, I was really happy with them, they just didnt fit in the attic well. I would stay with RS or Winegard. I tried a Magnavox antenna it was terrible compared to the comparable RS model. I also use the Zenith HDV420. I am very happy with it and it does seem to hold stations a little better than myHD cards. Must be nice to be in the yellow and not the Blue and Purple!

I thought "A" weighting was for ambient noise and "C" was for acoustical? I have always used "C" as reccomended by the meters instructions and by Avia.

85dB is considered reference. However, most people find this very loud. Most will calibrate between 75-80dB. I used 80dB but also made sure it was close at 85dB (for the times I want to show off). To be honest, anything above 70dB will be fine, it just depends on if you care about accuracy at reference or not. In addition, there are correction factors for the SPL levels of the RS meter. As long as they all come out to the same reading this is no problem. Just remember that the readings may be a bit off the actual. No big deal to me, but to some it is Just remember that if you are calibrating for DD it will be different in DTS. In addition, if you use the test tone from the receiver, it may be a different volume setting for DVD playback. I have this case with my Yamaha. The test tone is close but not the same as the Avia calibration from the DVD. Im sure someone here will correct any of my mistakes.

He didn't have a good explination for why it would @ 30 and not below. He just guessed it was the amps rumble feature, but I think he was just throwing that out there. He was more concerned that I had tried to find the frequency responce, and in the prosess bottomed it out.

Copy of a post I made the other day- I will add this modest thought and as a preface I will say, cables in situations like video handling and non digital transmissions can make a difference: Make sure you buy at least some type of quality cable. I do not mean quality in the fact it costs more or there are exotic materials, but that its construction is quality. I had a cheap cable that came with a junk sub I used a while ago. It was so thin it allowed external noise to interfere with the signal. If this is not a good reason, I always try to buy cables with good connectors. Cheap connectors get loose, cause static and so on. I do not go crazy when it comes to cables but I do like middle of the road interconnects. I use a RS Gold interconnect. Got the 12' on sale for $10.

I do not dare try it again. The only reason I kept the power coming was my curiosity took over faster than my common sense. The only fault I find with your calculation is that 20Hz will probably have higher impedance than 3.36 because it was pretty close to the tuning frequency of 35Hz. Therefore, my guess is the impedance was probably around 8 ohms. For a total of ~450W Besides, I could not get the tinsel lead to stop banging on the spider, or perhaps a lead was loose in the cone. There was a tapping at all but the lowest volumes. Therefore, Dan at Adire sent me a replacement. They are definitely professionals there. He was great with answering my questions and did not even sound too mad when I told him the gamut of tests I ran (I am sure he was fuming inside though!) Thank you for the responses.

Audionuttt- Want to hear something even more strange (this shows my lack of understanding). When using the scope I used the BL of the Shiva (10.8) and found that around 30V should have done me in @ 20Hz. This was two weeks ago so my info may be a bit off, but I do remember measuring 60V and not bottoming out. After 60V the amp started clipping so I just shut it down. Please dont take these numbers as fact. This was a couple of weeks ago. I do know, however, that I did reach 60V at 20Hz. Even with a newly calculated BL of 13.9 (very close to yours) I shouldnt have been able to do this. BTW the amp did not have a DC offset. I knew this probably wasnt the problem, but I was out of explanations. I did notice that I was excursion limited below ~35Hz but again I would think a bottom @ 35 would produce a bottom @ 20Hz. I guess this may be one of those things that Im going to have to let go of and just be happy with. Again, I am _not_ saying the driver preformed poorly, quite the opposite. I really enjoyed the experience and look forward to testing it in an 85L Vented tuned @ 20Hz.