krispykoilz

I think you should solder the wire together if you need to make it longer. Both leads, left and right, should be the same length as well. I don't see how adding a foot if it's soldered is going to make a big difference in the amount of current being able to flow through it. You may be hard pressed to hear an audible difference but then again some people seem to have such acute hearing they can hear the most subtlest of changes.

Allan, I'm guessing you could name your price and someone somewhere would ****** it from you as quick as you could say... Really nice!

Georg, congratulations on the purchase of your new gramophone. I know you'll be pleased with the way it sounds. I have 3 different crank ones but not one with an external horn yet. Those old 78's are terrific sounding but you probably want to listen to them with something that won't cause as much wear as the old gear will. Garrard also had some good tables that would work for you. I would think anything within the last 20 years that has 78 speed and is in good shape will work. Looks like following the suggestions already made will put you in really good shape though.

I've been looking for an old Yamaha 250 W/channel in my city for awhile now. I just love the way choral or voice sounds with my Chorus II's being pushed with a Natural Sound amp. I bought what is in my opinion a better overall sounding amp but I would still like to own a Yamaha, just to play with occasionally. It'll make the hair stand up on the back of your neck when playing female vocal.

Actually it sounds like he's dissing Yamaha by that last statement.

maxg, The deepest soundstage I have heard with my Chorus II's was when I first purchased them. I hooked them up using the 12 gauge wire that I had been using for 10 plus years. The soundstage was coming from well behind the speakers. I remember listening to a piece of music, can't remember what it was right now, that had a sound 50' behind the speakers. I thought I would freshen up the wires and cut a foot off each end. The ends were burnt and corroded, there was green dust in them. The soundstage moved to in front of the speakers and the 50' now sounded like 25'. I could have kicked myself.

Thanks Ray, I took a look at the Stover pdf. If the rounded side of the nut was used to sandwich the shelf it should be able to tighten on an angle without having to making shims. I googled that clamp rack, interesting.

It has been my experience that going to heavier gauge wire does appear to cut the brightness out of the speaker. I have not tried the cat5 but did make 8 gauge wires. I found the same thing as you're hearing. Flat, as if the highs were rolled off. When I purchased the Bryston a friend stopped by and wanted to hear my system pinned to the max. He was blown away but later I realized that the cd player hadn't skipped like it had earlier. I checked the wire and I had the 12 gauge on. I swapped it with my 9 gauge and there was enough bass to make the cd skip again. I don't know how to explain it technically but larger wire does allow more low end to flow. I didn't care for the sound with the 8 gauge. I guess you have to let your ears tell you when you've gone to far. Cat5 is supposed to be braided, I think that's to cancel out electomagnetic field.

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. I guess the wood can be swapped out for steel plate, the extra weight shouldn't be a problem. I'm thinking 1" rod may just look a little sexier/cooler. Proper washers would be a must or it could just rip right through the wood and out of the ceiling. I think I would leave the risers on the speakers and get them as tight to the ceiling as possible. I'll hire someone to put them up for me, just thinking about doing this is hurting my back.

I think that by using an equalizer you are just adjusting for the faults in your system. I agree that they add more noise but also agree that they can make a huge difference for the better when used in the right situation properly.

OK, I had time today to stop by Home Depot. 3/4" threaded rod is $8. something Can. for a 6' piece. 1" shouldn't be to outrageous of a price. I'm thinking that the shelf/seat could have an upturned lip on front and back. A piece of 1" inside diameter pipe could be cut on a diagonol equal to the intersection/ sweetspot. These would be shims? Instead of holes in each corner of the shelf/seat they would be slots, front to rear. This would allow the speaker to be tilted. A laser pointer could be used to line the speakers up. The math would be different depending on application? I'm sure the knowledgable people that frequent this forum will let me know if I'm wrong. When and if I figure this out I'm going to have to get some help, I can't see doing this by myself. Not with 90 lb. speakers.

Hi dougdrake, I did mean it to be general as I have noticed others asking about "flying" speakers. It appears this method could be used to hang anything successfully providing strong enough materials are used to ensure safety. If we could add placement and on axis crossing points so as to allow a proper sweet spot for the listener everyone could use this. I think that if the speakers were mounted with enough attention to placement they should sound just as good in a listening/home theatre room than on the floor. For an extemely large space/hall placement may not be as critical as I would imagine an equalizer could make up for sonic inadequacies due perhaps to the woofers not being close enough to the ceiling. For my application it would involve Chorus II's and dealing with the 92lb or so weight as well as working with a passive radiator. For rears it would be my Kg 4.5's which could probably go pretty much right on or against the wall. My centre, a KV3 is on top of a Toshiba 36" tv which is sitting on a Philco record player/radio cabinet circa 1940's I believe. The cabinet doors open properly but because of the size of the tv it has to be about a foot from the wall, I also put coasters under the front feet to angle it slightly back against the wall, so it won't tip forward. Those old cabinets were very well built and it looks real sharp, some of the old mixed with the new. I also keep my turntables in it. I use a Bryston 4BNRB for my mains, a Rotel RX 1203 reciever (circa 1979)it has a separate switch so I only use the amp for the rears, and a Kenwood KR-V8070 and I use the centre channel amp (I would love to replace the Kenwood if I could afford to). For CD I use a Denon DCD 3000 and for listening to stereo I have it connected directly to the Bryston and use the line out attentuator for volume control. I use 9 gauge wire for my mains and 12 gauge for the centre and rears. Haven't purchased any new audio equipment since about 1995. Hello m00n, picture a swing with a threaded rod holding each corner of the seat. For the top of the speaker another seat. Due to the rod being threaded the top and bottom could be tightened to sandwich the speaker tightly in between. Gotta go to work now, hope to read you later. Thanks for all the suggestions. Oh, I just heard on the tv that they caught Sodamn Insane. Have a good day everyone!

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. So it has been done and can be given a finished look if you don't want to see exposed threaded rod. I was quoted approximately $50 for the eight rods, can't remember if that was for 3/8 or 7/16. Actually not that expensive really. It shouldn't hurt the budget to go well over the 4 times weight bearing capacity and make them really safe. Balancing the speakers upside down and tilted so the tweeters face downwards is probably going to put extra stresses on the rods. I think the shelf/brackets will have to be designed to distribute the weight evenly among the 4 rods. I think snugging them up to the ceiling would be a good idea. The woofer should be close to the ceiling as it would be on the floor for proper bass reproduction. I'm glad I don't have to install these on a 40' ceiling, heights give me the willies.

Hi Thoriated_Tiger, sorry can't help you with wood finishes but I have replaced quite a few voice coils. Voice coils should be the color of shiny new pennies not burnt and black. Pro horns not only sound great but are easy to fix. Just be careful not to crush or bend the new coils when you place them into the gap in the magnet and when replacing the horn tighten them as you would a tire on a car. All the way around evenly, they only need to be snug not torqued like a car tire/wheel. You'll see how easy it's going to be when you disassemble your horn.

Hello, I was wondering if anyone has used threaded rod to hang speakers from the ceiling. A top and bottom plate could sandwich the speaker and the rods could go through the ceiling and into 4x4's laid across the joists. This way you wouldn't even need to rely on placement of the studs for positioning. I did phone an industrial fastener business in town and the fellow said it should hold up a speaker no problem. It comes in various diameters and grades.

Thanks Gil, when I first heard the Chorus it didn't take me long to decide that they were the speakers for me, however; by the time I was able to afford them the Chorus II's had replaced them. I was very surprised when unpacking them and seen the passive radiator on the back of them. I'm very pleased with their sound whether sitting in front of them or turning them up and listening to them from another room in the house or even outside. The passive radiator puts limitations on setup though, I couldn't cut holes in an inside wall and place them into the wall for instance. I agree with you on building "Brooklyn bridge" style.

Thanks everyone for your replies and the welcome. I guess that it would be possible to construct some sort of angle iron frame to fit the speaker into and hang or mount that without putting too much stress on the actual speaker. Looks like a little knowledge of building construction and physics is necessary to ensure that they stay up. Maybe even a safety cable like they put on ceiling fans could be used. If I go for this I'll start by mounting my Kg 4.5 rears which should be easier. I'll grab a couple of ladders to put them on, that should give me an idea of how they will look and sound before I spend a bunch of time and money on this. Oh, and I do realize that by hanging the Chorus II's it is not going to have the effect of making them disappear. I'm still going to have two huge honkin speakers, it's just that right now each is sitting on top of a SD 15" self powered sub and I'm thinking that if I could see the wall behind them it may give the illusion of more space. I may be wrong.

Hello, I'm thinking of mounting my Chorus II's upside down in the corners of my listening room. I'm thinking that the tweeter should be pointed down and toed in so they intersect approximately 3/4's of the way into the room and somewhere between 4' to 6' off the floor. It is a small room 13'X17'X8' and the main reason for me doing this would be to hopefully make the room appear more spacious. Has anyone tried hanging these awesome sounding monsters? Does anyone have any tips or tricks for me? Any positive and/or negative feedback would be greatly appreciated before I attempt to do this. If I need to add more info please ask. Thanks.